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qt! 





IN DARKEST AFRICA 


OR THE 


QUEST, RESCUE, AND RETREAT OF EMIN 
GOVERNOR OF EQUATORIA 


BY 


HENRY M. STANLEY 


WITH TWO STEEL ENGRAVINGS, AND ONE HUNDRED AND 
FIFTY ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS 


IN TWO VOLUMES 


Vor. IL 


“1 will ot cous to go forward until I come tothe place where the wo seas meet, 
‘hough I travel ninety years."—Konan, chap, xl v.42, 





NEW YORK 
CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS 
TORONTO 
PRESBYTERIAN NEWS COMPANY 


1890 
[Ait righte reserved] 


9.7 , 
S78! 


V2 
C2 


‘atered according to Act of Pasllament of Canada, 
‘im the year 190, by 
SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON 
United 
‘Loodon, England, at the Department 
of Agriutture. 


‘Corrmous, 160, 2x 
CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS 


502883 





y janas naa Cou 

















Tetras in 6 torent clowns of AndaktecOur tend 
elothes—The Thura River—Searcity 


forest 
fear Akuma Story of the piv asd 


‘THE GRUAT CESTEAL APRIOAN FOREST. 


Profowor Drummond's statewente seapeeting Africa —Dinensione 
‘of tho can forest—Vegetation—Innect Description of the 
‘troow, @o.— ‘Tribes and their food—Tho ‘torest—The 
as The closrings; wonders of vegetable lifo—The 
queer, of Ionaliness—A forest tempest — Tropical vogota: 
slog the banka ofthe druwint— Wasps’ nea —‘The forest 
‘uunan lifo—A fow secrobs of the woods—Game in the 
why we did not hunt the animale—Binde—Tho 
‘Simian and insocta—he small bees and the 
Ywouitlow— Tho * jigger "—Night disturbances by falling, trows, de. 
Tho Chimpanzee—The miniest zone of the exrth—The Tturi 
or Arnwimi—The different tribes and their Inn 
i fonttires snd enstoms—Phoir complexion—Conversation 
‘with somo captives at Engwoddé—Tho Wambatti dwarfs: their 
divolings and mode of tiving—The Bates dwarte-Life in the 
forest villagos—Two Egyptinne eaptured by the dwarf at Fort 
Bolo= Tho poisons wed, for the, wrrows Our treatment for 
‘wounds by the axrows—The wild fruite of the forest—Domestic 
jimale—Ailments of the Madix and Zanzibaris—Tho Cor 
Iway and the forest products 4. 6. uae seas 





i 





CHATTER XXIV. 
IMPRISONMENT OF EMIX PASHA AND atm, JKPHSON, 


tion at. Fort Bodo—Liont, Stair report of what took place 

at the Fort during our lief of the roar column—No news of 
Jephson—Muster of our men—We burn the Fort and advance 
to find Rimin and Jephson—Camp wt Kandokons—Parting 
words to Liont, Stain and Surgeon Parko, who wre loft in 
ebarge of the sick—Mazamboni gives us news of Emin and 
Jophson—Old Gavi ecorts ua—Two Wahusn messongers 
letters from Emin awl Jophoon—Their coutonta—My 


Sh 


13 








CONTENTS. 


Casati’s views of Emin’s departure from his province—Lieut. 
Stairs makes the first move homeward—Weights of my officers 
at various places—Ruwenzori visible—The little girl reared by 
Casati—I act as medistor between Mohammed Effendi, his 
wife, and Emin—Bilal and Serour—Attempts to steal rifles 
from the Zanzibari's huts—We hear of disorder and distress 
at Wadelai and Mswa—Two propositions made to Emin Pasha 
—Signal for general muster under arms sounded—Emin’s Arabs 
aro driven to muster by the Zanzibaris—Address to the 
Egyptians and Sondanese—Lieut. Stairs brings the Pasha’ 
‘servants into the square—Seroor anc three others, being the 
Brineipal conspirators, placed under guard Muster of Eni 
1's followers—Osmen Latif Effendi and his mother—Casati 
and Emin not on speaking terms—Preparing for the marc 
Hight with lab betwom tho Nubian, Graz, ead the Zanetbaris 
My judgments on the combatants— We leave Kavalli 
Zanzibar—The number of our column—Halt in Mazamboni' 
territory—I am taken ill with inflammation of the stomach— 
Dr. Parke’s skilful nursing—I plan in my mind the homeward 
march—Frequent reports to me of plots in the camp—Lieut. 
Stairs and forty mon capture Rehan and twenty-two deserters 
who left with our riflos—At a holding of the court it is agreed 
to hang Rehan—TIllness of Surgeon Parke and Mr. Jephso 
ket of letters intended for Wadelai falls into my hands, 
and from whieh we learn of an important plot concocted by 
Emin’s officers—Conversation with Emin Pasha about the 
Same—Shukri Agha arrives in our camp with two followers— 
Lieut. Stairs buries some ammunition—We continue our march 
and camp at Bunyambiri—Mazamboni’s services and hospitality 
—Three soldiers appear with letters from Selim Bey—Their 
gontents—Conversation with the soldiers—They take a letter to 
Selim Bey from Emin—Ali Effendi and his servants accompany 
the soldiers back toSelim Bey... ee www we 




















CHAPTER XXVII. 
MIN PASHA—A STUDY. 





The Relief of David Livingstone compared with the Relief of Emin 


‘Pasha—Outline of the journey of the Expedition to the first meet- 
jng with Emin-Some few points relating to Emin on which we 
hhad been ‘misinformed—Our high conception of Emin Pasha— 
Loyalty of the troops, and Emin’s extreme indecision—Surprise 
at finding Emin a prisoner on our third return to the Nyanza— 
‘What might have heen averted by the exercise of a little frank- 
‘ness and less reticence on Emin’s part—Emin’s virtues and noble 
desires—The Pasha from our point of view—Emin’s rank and 
Position in Khartoum, and gradual rise to Governor of Equatoria 
—Gordon’s trouble in the Soudan—Emin’s consideration and 
patience—After 1888 Emin left to his own resources—Emin’s 
‘small explorations—Correctness of what the Emperor Hadrian 
wrote of the Egyptiant—The story of Emin’a struggles with the 
Mahdi’s forces from 1888 to 1885—Dr. Junker takes, Emin's 
doxpatchoy to Zanzibar in 1686 Kable Roen s declared enemy 
of Emin—The true position of Emin Pasha prior to hie relief by 


182 




















vith 


uni 


i 


ini 


‘ 


6. suttloment—Katwe 
its wt Mukungu—We 


ctu 





i 


4 Inke—Ki 
it—And cay 


ight 


i 
j 


ieee ee 


tem ot 
Xs 


ee itr 
bat Hee i 


a 
Lt 
i 
i 


! 
f 
E 
i 


12 
i 
H 
We 
Hi 
a 
2 





ij 


neatly. the true 
Nilotic basin—The ‘The traditions of 
experiences of tbe sn i wile at Mcavall Mow st 
‘fort in the district rouod Kavalli: thelr mike 
PieldThre taser Yo cat with Ta ele open to 
told dutlen of the sane 


CHAPTER XXXIV. 


90 THE ENGLISH MINION STATION, BOUTN BRD OF VIOTORIA NYANTAL 
j and tho Alox= 


| PSL ro etd iter. Fen sole 
andra Xi ‘Hot Springs—A bal fer) 
pee mabe, ‘dhows fight in cam Re wrance of Wadi 
ui ‘Pasha's of Capt. jurgeon Parke 





x CONTENTS. 


gnd the pigmy damsel Conduct of bor pigmy-—Kibbo-bora 
loses his wife at the Hot Springs—Arrival at Kufurro—Recent 
‘ings of Karngwé—Kiengo and Captain Neleo's reeemblance to 
“Speke”—The King of Uganda greatly dreaded in Karagwé— 
N Tefuses to let our sick stay in his country—Camp at 
‘Uthenga: loss of men through the cold—We throw ‘superfiuous 
articles in Lake Urigi in order to carry the sick—We enter the 
district of Thangiro: henoefarward our food has to be purchased 
the Lake of Urigt—at the village of Mutars, Futh-o-Mullah 
rans amuck with the natives, and is delivered over to them— 
The Unyamatunda plateau—Halt at Ngoti: Mwengi their 
chief—Kajumbe’s territory—We obtain a good view of Lake 
Vietoria—The country round Kissho—Lions and human skulls 
in the vicinity of our camp—The events of 1888 cleared our 
track for @ peaceful march to the sea-—We reach Amrands and 
‘Bwange—The French missionaries and their stations at Usam- 
diro—Arrival at Mr. Mackay's, the English Mission station— 
‘Mr. Mackay and his booke—We rest, and replenish our stores, 
ste Messrs. Mackay and Deakes give us a sumptuous dinnet 
svious to our departure—The last letter from Mr. A. M. 
Efsckay, dated January 6,38900 wes . 




















CHAPTER XXXV. 
YROM THE VIOTORIA NYANZA TO ZANZIBAR. 


Missionary work along the shores of the Victoria Nyanza and along 
‘the Congo river—The roed from Mackay’s Mission—The country 
at Gengé—Considerable difficulty at preserving the peaco at 
Kungu—Rupture of peace at Ikoma—Capture and release of 
‘Monangwe—The Wasukuma warriors attack us, but finally retire 
= Treachery—The natives follow. us from Nera to, Soké We 
enter tho district of Sinyanga; friendship between the natives 
and our men—Continued aggression of the natives—Heavy. 
tributes—Massacre of caravan—The district of Usongo, and its 
hist Mittinginya—His surroundings and _neighbours—Two 
French missionaries overtake us—Human skulls at Tkungu— 
‘We mest one of Tippu-Tib's caravans from Zanzibar—Troubled 
‘Ugogo—Lieutenant, Schmidt welcomes us at the German station 
of Mpwapwa—Emin Pasha visits the Péres of the French 
Mission of San Esprit—Tho Fathers unacquainted with Emin’s 
repute—Our mails in Africa continually going astray—Contents 
of some newspaper clippings—Baron von Gravenreuth and 
others meet us at Msua—Arrival of an Expedition with 
European provisions, clothing and boots for us—Major Wissman 
=He and Schmidt take Emin and myself on to Bagamoyo— 
Dinner and guests at the German officer's mess house—Major 
‘Wissman proposes the healths of tho guests; Emin’s and my 
FY he mme_Enio's sectenk 1 ist ain inthe 

jurgeon Parke's report—The feeling at Bagamoyo— 
Embark for Zanzibar —Parting words with Emin Pashe— 
Tilness of Doctor Parke—Emin Pasha enters the service of the 
German Government—Emin Pashe’s letter to Sir John Kirk— 
Sudden termination of Emin’s acquaintance with me—Three 
cocasions when I apparently offended Emin—Emin’s fears that 


CONTENTS. 


‘ho would be unemployed—Tho British Hast African Company” 
and Emin—Courtesy ‘and hospitality at Zanzibar—Monies duo 
to the survivors of the Relief Expedition—Tippu-Tib’s agent 
at Zanzibar, Jaffar Tarya—The Consular Judge grants me an 
injanetion against Jafar Tarya—At Cairo—Conclusion .. 





APPENDICES, 


A.—CononaruLations ny CABLE RECEIVED aT ZANzmAR 
B.—Companative Tasues or Forgst aD GRase-LAND 
ouaGES .. 
O.—Inmnany ov Tux JOURNEYS MADE 15 1887, 1888, 1080 
D.—Baxaxce Suzer, &0., or Tax Rettey ExpEprtion 
GuveraL Ixpex 











xi 





LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 


VOLUME IL 


STEEL ENGRAVING. 


Porraart or Heyny M. Sramuzy . . ss Frontiapiece. 
(From a Photograph taken at alr, March, 1500) 


FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS, 


Tne 
Swonpe ayp Kurves or raz Amapua. . 0. 07 sss 
Ewmuno Arye... eee ee OO 
‘Tax Scours Discoves tux Piourms Camevinc away THE Case oF 

AMIE CE Ay tbe ied Ce yer a> oe ot 
Sranvation Camp : Senvine ovr Mux axp Burren ror Brors. . 66 
‘A Page row Ma. Stamuer’s Nove-Boor—Saerce-Mars. . 4 
‘Tax Prous a7 Hour—A Zawzinan Scour Taxrwa Nores. . . 104 
Appnzss to Risen Orricess ar Kavaun. 5 ss. 148 
‘Tar Prowrs as Courazso wira Tue Ewotisa Oricrns, Soupannsr, 

ano Zammmams 6 eee eee es 18D 
Tex Prous urpes tax Lexs, as Companxp To Carram Casar's 

Smevavr Om. 2. eee ees TOE 
Cumpino Tae Prareau Storms 2. sw ee 170 
Rescvgp Eoyrrians amp Tama Fumes... . ss 220 
‘Rowson, yao Kavauu’s, 2 2 ee eee, 


xiv LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS, 


Rownszomt, raox Mrsons 2... : 

Bro'sEre View op Rowsxzosi, Luxe Auszat Eowanp, ax Laxe 
Rowenzon, vow Kamat... ee ee 
Exrevmiox Wrspixa ur Tae Gouox or Kanra-Musono . 

‘A Pace rnox Mu, Sraxzuy’s Nore-Boox—Mustcat Inermumyts 
‘Weaross or THe Batsooa ano Wanuma Tarps 5. 
Bany Ruwocezos Suowixa Front ow Caxr , Ce 
Sovra-West Exramurrr or Laxe Viorosta Nrasza. 5. 
Srawuer, Eurs, ano Ovricens at Usuario. 0... 
Expanesces mm Usuuma 2 se ee 
BanquerarMsa, 2 1 ee eee 
Uspen sme Pats at Bacaworo. 2 eee 


‘Tar Rewer Expeprrion Rervawno to Zaxzan . . 
‘Tur Furruros ar Zaman 6 wee 


OTHER ILLUSTRATIONS. 


A Swrousa Rack arren 4 Busn Avrziore, 


Dwanr Caprive at Aviraxo. Raa th ch “8 ince 
Bawoo mar Dur Rive... ee 
TwoEvor Sreaus . ew ee et 
BUA TARIR 2 as Go a, bd Be war a BL Bp Eg 
BacwRest axp Soon. . ee ee ee 
Decoareo Eantuex Por... ee eee 
Agnows or tae Dwanrs 2. . se 

Euruarr Tur. ee ee 
ABuue or Bama. 1 ee ee eee 
Vuw or Campar Kava. 6. ee ee 


Suvxrt Aous, Coxmawpawr or Mewa Station... we 


85288 


Hi 


1 


1 


BESER 


3 


1" 





xvi LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 


- 
‘View rnow Mackar’s Mission, Laxe Vicroma . . . .. 498 
Rock His, Uausmo. . . . . we eee ABT 
‘House axo Batcoxy rnow warm Eu Fenn. 0... . 4B 
Suercu or Caster cowrainine tax Faexpox or Tax Crry or Loxpox . 489 
Smerom oy Casker, tax Gurr or Kino Lopoww. =... 480 
MAPS. 
A Mar or rae Roure or ra Extx Pasta Reuizr Exrepirioy Tazovor 
Arnica. 

In Pocket. 
AMar or Exax Pasua's Province... In Pocket. 


Paore Sxercu or Ruweszomt avo Tre Vauury of THe SeMuikt, 


Facing page 838 














et IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


‘Mr, Bonny, in his official report, hnd stated it was his 
intention, “under God's help, to make the Expedition 
more suecessful than it been ete une 

ve 


ritten report, 
Sry ca rem ete the terrible hours of 
19 an e touching fidelity to bis 
olay Selieerg ee ged 
isely wh onght to be, Mr. iv leaped at 
a Sant See Sa to a most admiri foie 
Twas sure, also, that Major Barttclot must have dis- 
covered remarkable elements aureus in him, which, 
unfortunately for my credit, been unseen by me. 
But no sooner had permission been given to the men 
to speak, than I was amazed at finding himself listening 
to a confession that the first day’s march to the east- 
der Me. Bouny was to be the signal for his total 
abandonment by the Zanzibaris. 
gave them a patient hearing, Only sixty seomed 
in any way likely to survive the trials they had endured 
out of the 101 or 102 remaining. They all appeared 
unutterably miserable, many seemed heart-broken, but 
there were several whose looks suggested a fixed hate, 
malice, und spite. 

“Well, sit down, children," suid I, “and let us talk 
this matter quietly,” and when they had seated them- 
selves in a semi-circle before me, and our own robust 

from the Nyanza had crowded about behind, 1 
iressed them thus :— 

“Ah, my poor men, the ays of weeping and grieving 
are over. your tenrs and he glad. See those stout 
fellows behind you, They have seen the white Pasha, 
they have shared his bounties of meat, and milk and 

it, and have heard him ise their manliness, 
They are the people who should weep, but weep for 
for every step hence is one step nenrer to 

wibar, We came back from the Nyanga to seck you 
who were 40 long lost tous, We have found you, thanks 
be to God! Now, let bygones be bygones, I cannot 
restore the dead, but I cun rejoice A $a hearts of the 
living. Think no more of your sufferings, but live in 






AN DARKEST AFRICA. 





faainesas ee S 
ese Ferajji, ep ure n hend man, tell me what 
eanse of com, ze perarales you have, Did the 
mt mira you 

“No, they treated me well; but they were hard on 
ee ea 
last hardy‘and On whom t” 
“he ans ey ne at app 


ese went away there wns 


3 tte to oe “San sig fixing the earth work, sweep 


camp, cat fuel, stand guard at night, But the 
Loki (lazy or useless) would not come when called, 
the white men got impatient, und would call 

again louder. Then the goeegoees would come slowly 
—lazily—little bi Meee and’ aay thoy bad pains in 
i head, or alae baa chest, or feet, Then 

ie musters wi w and say it was shamming. 
Bet day i ae rane a ‘ Ses, 

“But how could sweeping camp, getting el, an 
standing guard be hard work for 2) people 

“Tt was no work at all.” 

* Was anybody else punished except the goee gores ?” 

“No one except the thieves.” 

“Did you have many of them ?" 

“I think all the thieves of Janaibur joined the 
* journey-makers’ this time." 

“That cannot be, Perajji, because we had some thieves 
with us, and there must have been a few left on the 
const.” 

‘The audience laugh, Ferajji eles “That is indeed 
truth, but we had a great many. Brass rods, cowries, 
garments were lost daily. Zanziboris accused 
danese, Soudanese accused alia, Somalis necused 
Zanzibaris, and so it went round. Nothing was safe. 


i 


i 
i 


they looked very different from us at 
ya. They were stout and strong—-we were thin 
and dyi ‘Then, in unother month, the men from 
Bolobo begun to sicken and die, and every few days we 
buried one, or two, or even three ata time, There waa 
a ares after a while between the Yambuya and 


i 
: 
2 


dp 


men. 
“Had ae any cholera, small-pox, fever, or dysentery 
mt" 
weno, the men did not die of any of those thin 
id Sou 


Perhups the Somalis ane danese did not take kindly 
to the climate, but it was not the climate that killed 
the Zanzibaris, Oh——" 
“And Nth it was not by the stick, or hard work, 
or cholera, #mall-pox, fever, dyeentery or climate?” 
“Nothing of any of those things Killed the Zansi- 


“Were they shot, or hanged, poisoned, or drowned 1” 

“Neither was any of those things done unto them, 
and a Proper and good man was never punished, and we 
had one day out of seven in the week to ourselves, 

“ Now in the name of the Prophet Mohammed—throw 
ir eyesight on these forty men here who sit apart. 
ik at those big eyas, hollow cheeks, thin necks, and 

every rib bare to.the view. You see them? What has 
caused those men to be thus!” 
God knows 1" 
Yet they are wasting away, man, and they will die.” 
Tt is true,” 














(Re 






3 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 
~ Salim haa the gift of "murmured the 
‘Aye, gift of speech, 


‘This encouraged Salim, who, clearing his thioat, re- 
somed : There is no doubt that the main fault lcs in 


it we allknow, We know the sickness, the reteh- 
ing, the quaking of the legs, the softening of the muscles, 
the pain in the head as if it were bound with iron and 
the earth swimming round the place whereon we stand, 
and the fall into a deadly faint. 1 say we have felt all 
this, and have seen it in others, Some of ua have 
picked eee Knack of making it eatuble; but there are 
‘others who ure already too feeble or too lazy to try, or 
try to care how to live, 
“For some time we have been thinking that in every 
camp of ours there is nothing but graves, and dying and 
burying. There has been no meat, nor salt, nor dripp- 
ing, nor gmvy. There hus been manioc, always mantoc, 
an no more, But if the gullet be dry, what will drive 
the food down the passage? If the stomach is filled 
with loathing it requires a little gravy or dripping to 
| make the food palatable, 
“ We knew that in a fow weeks we were to leave here 
for Stanley Falls, or for up the river, and we had made 
up our minds to leave the white men's service—every 
one of ux ‘There has been death among us, it is here 
still, and no one knows what is the cause of it. 1 myself 
don't quite believe that it ia because we are working for 
white men, but there are some of as who do. Bub we 
| were all agreed until you came that we had seen enough 
| of it. There ix another thing I wished to say, und. thut 

ix—we have wondered why we who belong to the Con- 
| tinent should dio, and white men who are atrangers to it 
should live. When we were on the Congo and on other 

journeys it was the white men who died, and not we. 
| ow it is we who dic, a hundred blacks for one white. 
No, master, the cause of death isin the food, ‘The white 
‘men bad meat of goat, and fowls, and fish ; we have had 
nothing but manioe and therefore died. 1 have spoken 
my say.” 


__——— —— oe 


















i 





e282 
ate 
; 

iF 

E 


; 

pai te ‘the men of Yambuya, and by- 
1 ill and died also, ‘That is the reason 
@ hundred graves at Yambuya, and that 
eae sick men here. Not one of the white 
ied, because they had rice, beans, biscuits and meat 
and goat. Tf it were the climate that had killed 
friends, the white men less adapted for it would 
died first, as they have done on the lower Congo ; 
but neither the climate nor the camp had anything to 
do with your mortal sickness—the reining) and quaking 
of the limbs, the v and pain in the head, the weak- 
ening of the knees, and the softening of the muscles, the 
final loathing, and indifference to life—nothing else than 

the poi the bitter manioe, 


re 
fe 
5 


should have ubout 200 sleek and strong men ready for 
travel with me to Zanzibar. 

+ Now follow what [say to you now, Eat ax little of 
this manioe aa you can. Go, gather sess » put it 
in the river to steep, and while it is soaking eat your 
fill of bananas and plantains. In a day or two [ will 
move away from here, The sick shull be curried to 
a big island o few hours distant, and there you will 
prepare twenty days’ provisions of flour, Those who 
cannot get suflicient bananas make gratings over the fire, 

ice your manioe thin, and let them dry tili morning ; 
then pound, and make into flour, and eat what is good 
for white man as well as black. ‘To-morrow, all of ‘you 
come back again to me, and you will throw away those 








filthy rigs of clothing into the river, and I shall clothe 


a 


2 IN DARKEST AFRIOA. 


ve 
the 24th of Au, T had stated T 
it for him ten days, and even that period was 
the impatient Nyanza men, who had 
heard with scorn of his ealeulating dilatoriness, But 
‘this delay was not only needed to give another oppor- 
i Yt also to enable Mr, Jameson, 


carriers. 
After threo days’ halt at the eamp we embarked all 
the sick and goods in the canoes, and proceeded to 
Bungangeta Island, which we reached in tree hours. 
All the Manyuema carriers 1 by land to a 
camp epics the island. Daring our stay at Ban- 
alya, Ugarrowwa had descended the river from Wasp 
ida and occupied the larger island; we therefore 

led to another higher up, which in’ some respects 

was more suitable for us. e land column seaggled 
into the camp opposite daring three successive days, 
but the rear , driving the stragglers, did not reach 
the landing-place until the evening of the 24th, though 
the distance was but six miles. Mr. Bonny did not reach 
until the 22nd, The advanee column in 1887 had 
covered the distance in four hours, but meantime the 
Arabs had destroyed the large settlements, and the 
murvellously thriving bush had buried rains, fields, and 
pisses under accumulated layers of leafy parasites. 
jit short march, protracted over three days, empha- 
sised the necessity that: existed for a complete reorgani- 
zation and thorough overhaul, We had also lost four 
hulf-louds and two rifles through wbsconding Manyuema, 
On the whole it was a capital test march, and proves, 
if any further proof wax needed beyond the log-book, 


“a & 


14 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 
Joads you carry.” Some of them understood this as 


46-21. implying leave to proceed upon their own business— 





that of ravaging and marauding—but three head men 
volunteered to accompany me. I en, them on the 
condition that if they followed me of their own will for 
thirty days I would after that time trust them with 
loads. 

At the muster of the Expedition, August 29th, the 


roll was made out as follows :— 


Men, 
Zanzibaris capable of carrying goods 165) 

ae carriers .. * ioe 7 a = WS 
foudazees and otiors coe 
rc. (Zanziburis) ” . 45 


Sick, & 
Somali se gah De 1 
Emin Pasha's soldiers <3.) 
Manyuema chiefs, women and followers 108, 
Officers and servant eB 
465 83 
List of loads to be carried on 2nd Journey to the 
Albert :-— 


Gunpowder 87 eases 
‘Remington ammunition 83, 
‘Winchester + is 
‘Beads in sacks ae 
Cowries » 

wire coils 45 
Cloth in bales wi 
Percussion caps 4) 
iscellaneous oF 


There were besides a few extra loads of miscellanea, 
which, so long as all were carried in canoes, were useful 
and necessary, such as service ammunition, native 
provisions, rope, &c., but the above formed the indis- 

sable baggage, when we should start overland. 
Though we had fifty-three carriers in excess of loads, 
sickness, wounds, and death would naturally, from the 
nature of the country and the present physical condition 
of the rear column, decrease the number greatly, and 
the time would arrive no doubt when the carriers would 


1888. 
Aug. 80. 


16 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


we were ignorant of it, Mr. Jameson had been dead 
twelve days before my letter was written. 

On the 30th August I sent the entire flotilla of canoes 
—twenty-nine in number, with twelve of Ugarrowwa's— 
to transport Mr. Bonny, 239 men and their personal kit, 

rovisions and cooking pots, five miles up river to the 
landing-place above the Rendi River, with orders to the 
land column to continue along our track to the next 
village, and the canoes having discharged their passengers 
returned to the island. 

The next day—thirteen days having elapsed since 
Tippu-Tib had been communicated with and no reply 
having been received—we departed from Bungangeta 
Island on our final journey through the forest land, east. 
We embarked 225 men, inclusive of canoe crews, feeble 
and sick, and 275 full loads of between sixty and sixty- 
five pounds each of expeditionary property, provisions of 
flour, private kits of the people, &c., and despite a burning 
sun, which made extempore awnings very necessary, 
pressed on up river for six hours until we arrived at our 
old camp below Lower Mariri. On the Ist of September 
we reached the foot of Mariri Rapids | tofind that Bonny’s 
column had passed on to South Mupé. As the unsophis- 
ticated Zanaibaris and ‘Manyueme had alee overlooked 
the device of portage opposite rapids, we had to despatch 
couriers to South th Mupe for men to assist in the trans- 
port of loads overland. 

On the 2nd we were engaged in poling the canoes 
through the dangerous river, and in the operation two 


were capsized. ‘The next day we poled through the 
upper t Mariri Rapids, and at noon we were all assembled 
uth Mupé. 


Ugerroww 1 had followed us up with his flotilla to col- 
lect a little more ivory, and was encamped at Upper 
Mariri Village. I had finished my hastily written 
letters to the Royal and Scottish Geographical Societies, 
and availed myself of his visit to me to request him to 
see that they were forwarded to England, but during our 
halt on the 4th September at South Mupé he re-visited 
me with Salim bin Mohammed, the nephew of Tippu- 













IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


of the screw. It was done effectively T 
‘Tippu-Tib | a tritle indifferent he 
© knew he would be coaxed to 

if bin Mohammed 

a little vexed, sour, or talked of wounded sus- 
the Major opened his boxes and chose agny 

t, or sent a forty-t ines rifle, or a bale 
revolvers; if Salim 

brother-in-law talked a little big. his 
was secured and stimulated by a 


a 


iu 


i 







ae 
zs 
258 


in person, he said, to give a verbal 
of the 17th, and he fcusiered by 
couriers immediately back to him: with 


z 
Hy 


#E 


z 
= 


ayed than at this interview, Salim said that 

-Tib had sent him to ask what we should do, 

and Swah: 
oN 


fri 
You have only seen hitherto one side of me, 
know and ve from my soul that it was neither you 
nor Tippu-Tib who cansed the death of the Major. 
‘Therefore we can speak together w+ formerly without 
anger, Tippu me beyond what 
the conaul and the Seyyid of Zanzibar can settle easily 
between them. Into their hands I will commit the case, 
‘ell your uncle that the pasage of himself and his 









ninety-six followers from Zanzibar to Stanley Falls must 
‘be paid, that the loss of goods, rifles, powder, and 
ammunition, the Joss of time of this entire expedition will 


— 












IN DARKEST APRICA, 


you will follow ua Don't you ave? There, 
, Come and itherwise 
leave here— 





during which we 
result 


op with alarming rapidity. Among the 

were two insane women, or ae, to be 

ite correct, two women subject to spasms of hysterical 

tion, possessed. “devils,” according to their 

by their perpetual singing 

night. Probably some such mania for 

at untimely hours was the cause of the Major's 

If the poor Major had any ear for harmony, 

inharmonious and excited madhouse uproar might 
well have exasperated him. 

The female sympathisers of these afflicted ones 
frequently broke out into strange choras with them, in 
the olict that this sakes ‘a soothing effect, while 
[= any cocrvive measures for silencing them only exaggerated 
i their curious malady. Whatever influence the chorus 
nerves of the sufferers, on ms, who 
‘were more tranquil, it was most di ing. 

‘At this settlement two Zauzibaris, exceedingly useful, 
and reckoned among the elect of the force, secretly left 
camp tomakea raid on the Batunlu, and were ambushed 
and slain. This was the manner our most enterprising: 




























a | i 


| 










i IN DARKEST AFRICA. 

“Elephant Playground" Camp was our next halting- 
Piacoa theaise wa iow fo Wang Bay 
= I learned from some of Ugarrowwa's men that inland 
grsot. from Bwamburi are the Ababua tribe, whom a 
different style of architecture prevails, the huts 
‘more commodions und comfortable, and plastered, 
that to the dwellings are attached wide verandahs, 1 
was also told that their blacksmith’s art was carried to 


tri-bladed and four-bladed 

and they were recognised as 

¢ Monburtu and Nyam-Nyam as 
i in his “ Artes Afrieanw.” 

Rapids, on the 12th, our canoes 

column under Mr. Bonny 

Bung unladen, the trained men arrived 

the advanee canoe of the flotilla, The 

3 Priced and well trodden like ordinary 


the 
me, 





camp, however, the men, under pre- 
leaves to roof their huts, 
into the forest, eluding the guards, and fae 
path leading inland. Same of these managed to 
few fowls, a sheaf or two of sugar-cane, and an 
of mature plantains, but there were others 
met only misfortune. Three Manyuema were killed, 
I and a Lado soldier of the irregulars of Emin Pasi 
} received a broad and sharp spear through his bod 
which, 
woud, 


7 ay 
. pe five Manyuema, three 
ibaris, and one Soudanese were killed and eaten hy 

ghoulish natives who had been hiding while the columi 
was passing, and that these men belonging to the Bana- 
\ party lad been resting near their hiding-place, when 
ey were suddenly set upon and despatched. It was 
only five days previously that I had addressed the 
} people publicly on the danger they were incurring by 


















ee eT 





(Ge 


——=> 








and 
Deal wholly unnecessat 


sufficed for several days, nnd 

rendered the provisi 
i ‘absolute Hdd to keep their promise, 
and the absolute impossibility of compel them to do 
s the cause of twelve deaths, and the thirteenth 
i wounded that he was in imminent 
raging among 
jadis, creating havoo 
and we hid this fatal want of 
liscipline, which was utterly irremedinble in the forest 
i ‘The more vehemently I laboured to correct this 
disorder in the mob, the more conscious I became that 
only a death ity on the raider would stop him ; but 
then when natives themselves executed infullibly 

the sentence, there was no necessity for me to do it, 
Just above Manginni a canoe was capsized through 
pure carelessness. With our best divers we proceeded 
to the scene and recovered every article excepting n box 
of gunpowder and one of beads. ‘The canoe was broken. 
ye Mugwye's, we reached Mambanga, and 
halved two daya to prepare food for the uninhabited 
wilderness that stretches thence to Engwedde. At this 
Lakki or a “ Hundred thousand,” a veritable Jack 
» ond, noisy, blnstering—the conrier who in the 
midst of the midnight fray at Bandeya shouted to his 
comrades: “These fellows want meat, and meat they 
shall have, but it will be their own !"—heading a secret 
aiding mide up of ch friends, and returned 
Maik cuca 2a riset wine lar 
jisoned arrow, Carbonate of ammonium 
was injected into the wound, and he was saved, but 
Lakki was firmly of the opinion that he was indebted to 

the tobueco leaves employed to cover it. 

ile peat our forest campa we were frequently 
startled at the sudden rush of some small animal resem- 
bling a wild seat which often waited in his covert until 
almost trodden upon, and then bounded swiftly away, 





———__ ~ ~ 





PERUZI AND THE BUSH ANTELOPE, 25 


running the gauntlet among hundreds of excited and hun- 
gry people, who with gesture, yoice, und uction attempted 
tocateh it. This time, however, the animal took a flying 
leap over several canoes lying abreast into the river, 
and dived under, In an instant there was a desperate 
pursuit. Man after man leaped head foremost into 
the river, until its face was darkly dotted with the heads 
of the frantic swimmers. ‘This mania for meat bad 
approached madness, The font arrow, the mexor- 
sharp spear, and the pot of the cannibal failed to deter 
them from such raids; they dared all things, and in this 







mstance an entire 
company had leaped 
into the river to fight and 
struggle, and perhaps be 
drowned, because there was a chance that a small animal 
that two men would consider as insufficient for a full 
meal, might be obtained by one man out of fifly. Five 
canoes Were therefore ordered out to assist the madmen. 
About half a mile below, deapite the manwuvres of the 
animal which dived and «wam with all the cunning of 
savage map, a young fellow named Feruzi clutched it 
hy the neck, and at the same time he was clutehed by 
halfa-dozen fellows, and all must assuredly have been 
drowned had not the eunoes arrived in time, and rescued 
the tired swimmers. But, alas! for Ferusi, the bush 















1088, 
Rep 








FEI ° 
a 
sagt 
nib 
ay E3 

Pa = 


: 


river column 
Md camp at the con- 
Tackwtie pene 
with a 

i treated instantly with an 
injection of carbonate of ammonia, and no ill-effects 





if 
Hi 
nd 
FE 
5 


: 
7 
i 
i 


somewhat indisposed, was sitting in the stern of a 
eanoe while the erew was on shore about forty feet from 
him, hauling it post a bit of epics: A bold and crafty 
native, with arrow before him, steadily approached 
the vessel and shot a poisoned wooden dart, which 
foes the arm near the ehoulders and pierced the 
of Scie (ane noe ee was a ay punters 
puncture, bat, time to say “Mahommed !” 
when he fell back dead. a rs 
Our next move was to Panga Falls, On the following 
day, 20th September, we mude a road past the Falls, 
hanled twenty-seven canoes to the landing-place above, 
in view of Fort Island and then conveyed ah goods and 
r ie Re through the d 
juring our first journey throw neighbourhood 
we had lost no wes through cee aan but since 
our first passage the natives had been stimulated into 
aggressive efforts by the ease with which the reckless 
Patrorent black when not controlled by a white man, 
be butchered. The deserters from the advance 
column had furnished the wretches with several meals: 
the stupid, dense-headed Bakusu under Ugarrowwa had 
them with victims until the cannibal had 
discovered that by his wooderaft he could ereep upon 
the unsuspecting men and drive his spear through them 
as casily a3 through 40 many goats, Wend Jost fourteen 





an 5 i 





IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


odour. The arm was not awollen, but the body 
wound had caused a considerable tumour, soft to the 





and suffered from thirst. After washing well 


from maa Be threw himself into the rapids and was 
drowned. He had declined heing vaccinated. 

After hauling our canoes overland three-quarters of « 
mile, we halted a day above the rapids to prey five 


as in August, 1887. 

e next day was a halt, and a Spay foraging party 
was sent over to Ttiri to collect food. Tn the afternoon 
it. returned, bringi af sever! dayse sapply of plantains 
with a few goats and fowls, and for the first time we 
were able to make soup and distribute meat to the 
Banalyasick, It was reported tome that the Manyuema 

ad curved a woman most butcherly to allay their strong: 
eraving for meat, but the headman assured me that it 
‘was utterly false, and T am inclined to believe him, for 
the Zanzibaris, if they had really detected such a mons- 
trous habit in people who might at any time contaminate 
their cooking-pots, would have insisted on making a 
severe example, 
On the last day of September we moved up to above 
upper rapids of Avugadu, at which camp we discovered 


ee 














30 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 
_ woman who was a hideous object, a mass of loathsome 
ae emitting an almost unbearable stench, butsher 
id tended and served her with a surpassing and 
devoted ee M Death gets i atlas and ee 
day, and in every shape ; but, supreme 
Tike a to make loathe beaut 
Poor unlettered, meek creatures, the humblest of human- 
ity, yet here unseen, and unknown of those who sing of 
noble sacrifices, of constancy and devotion, proving your 
brotherhood with us amid the sternest realities by Tull- 
ane gute loved ones to reat with the choicest flowers 
of love 


On the 2nd of October we moved arses Little Rapids 
below the confluence of the Ngaiyu with the Tturi, ais 
a tornado visited us, churned up the generally waveless 
river into eareering rollers, that stretched from bank to 
bank, with a powerand foree that disturbed the very bed 
and muddied the stream until it resembled a wild ‘strip 
‘of shallow wind-driven sea, beating on an alluvial shore. 
‘Onr canoes were dashed one against the other until they 
promised to become matchwood, while the great forest 
and roared with the agony of the strife, but in 
lfian-hour the river had resumed its placid and tender 
face, and the forest stood still as though petrified, 
During a halt on the ard, Mr, Jameson's hox, 
containing various trifles belonging to an industrial 
naturalist, was opened, Books, diaries, and such articles 
‘as were worth preserving, were sealed up for transport 
athwart the continent; the others, unnecessary to a 
person in civilization, were discarded, 
Mr. Bonny was despatched with twenty-cight: men 
the Ngniyu, to verify my hope that a landing-place 
hhad observed! in passing und repnssing would lend to 
the discovery of a road by which 1 could avoid the 
devastated wilderness that stretched for nearly 200 miles 
along the south bank between the Basopo Rapids and 
Tbwitis Mr. Bonny, after returning, was pleased to 
est his surprise at the marvellous dexterity and 
aullty of the scouts, who sprang with the lightness of 
springing bush antelopes over every kind of impediment, 


aa) = 









32 LN DARKEST APRIOA. 


iy eras anit the average level of the land was over 
* 4500 feet above the sea. 
On to the Nyanza plain, 2500 feet lower, 
we were again laid up with fierce attacks. 
At Banana Point, which is at sea-level, ague is only 


too common, 
at Boma, 80 feet higher, the ague is more common 


st 

At Vivi, there were more cases than elsewhere, and 
the station was about 250 fect higher than Boma, and 
‘nob & swamp was near it, 

At Stanley Pool, about 1100 feet above sea level, 
fever of a pernicious form was prevalent. 

While ascending the Congo with the wind astern we 
were unusually exempted from ague, 

But descending the Upper Congo, facing the wind, we 
were smitten with most severe forms of it, 

While ascending the Aruwimi we seldom thought of 
African fever, but descending it in canoes, meeting the 
wind currents, and carried towards it by river-flow and 

dile, we were speedily made aware thet acclimatisa- 
tion is slow, 

‘Therefore it is proved that from 0 to 5000 feet above 
the sea there is no immunity from fever and ague, that 
over forty miles of lake water between a camp and the 
other shore are no positive protection ; that a thousand 
miles of river course may serve as u flue to conve 
malaria in a concentrated form ; that if there is a thiel 
sereen of primeval forest, or a grove of plantains be- 
tween the dwelling-plice’ and a large clearing or open 
conntry there is only danger of the local malaria around 
the dwelling, which might be rendered harmless by 
the slightest attention to the aystem; but in the open 
| country neither a house nor a tent are sufficient protec 
tion, since the air enters by the doors of the honse, and 
under the flups, and through the ventilators to poison 
the inmates, 

Hence wo may infer that troes, tall shrubbery, » high 
wall or close screen interposed between the dwelling- 
place and the wind currents will mitigate their malarial 





ee 





‘raiyabu, a furking native who had heen stand- 
Techind leafy screen of parasites depending from 


Sibnee 
i 
E 
f 

5, 
F 
; 


i 
=F 
a 
i 
ol 
of 
ee 
ee 


: 


camp, Avamberri lace, Soudi 
had served the Major, while 
rapids to the canoes waiting above, 
i carriers’ shoulders, The enamel covering of 
ne bad been all destroyed the virulent 
ad left: Bungangeta Island, Soudi had 
curried and nursed, but want of exercise, and 
to sun in the canoe and constant rain had 

his digestion. Tis constitution had been 
iginally healthy and sound, The little fellow had 
sufferings bravely, but the reserve medicines 
were at Bangala, and we could do nothing for him. 

‘On the 18th of October we were at Amiri Rapids, and 
the second Zanzibari showed symptoms of small-pox, So 
far we had been emoacibly Stee of Gandia, ite the 
faet that there were from ten to twenty sufferers daily in 
the camp since arriving at the settlement of the Batundu. 
Out of 620 Zanzibarix who were ordered to be vaccinated, 


——— | 


eG 
fate 
filet 
4 te 


Hi 














_— 


RESULT OF VACOINATING THE ZANZIMARIS, 35 


_ some few constitutions ane have resisted the —1aa, 
eck 


+ but no more 


of the benefits Oh 1 


resulting to humanity could be obtained from Jeunes’s im 


discovery than were furnished by our Expedition, 
Among the abate: Madis, and native followers, 
the epidemic taken deadly hold, and many a 
vietim hnd already been tossed into the river weighted 


with rocks. For this was also strange necessity we 


swain of a canoe was so stung by wasps at this camy 
that he despaired of his life, and insisted that his 
should be written, wherein he made his brother, then 
with us, his sole legatee. I conformed to his wish in a 
clerkly fashion thnt pleased him well, but I ulso adminis- 
tered i ten-grain dose of carbonate of ammonium hypo- 
dermically, and told him he should reach Zanzibar in 
pe vicious wasps who had 40 pnnished him. 
next day he was a new man, and boasted that the 
heed ‘man’s medicines could cure everything except 
loa 
After moving to the top of Amiri Rapids, a series of 
met us. Some few of the ity-h 
Te ea epee n ee, 
plantain tea aclan jout a leader or authority, an 
themselves like children, The ne sure 
rounded them and punished them, reeoue three. 
‘Two others, one from # palpitation of the heart, 
eienother feeble youth, hud I ¢ trail to hide from. 


‘to diate, we had lost sines Ist: of September, nine 

is killed, one from suicide, one from uleers, and 

two were Of the Manyuema con! t, fifteen 
had been killed or had died from small and. 
‘eighteen Madis had either been killed or had perished 
from the pet Total loss, forty-four deaths within 


all to Avatiko was a seven-days’ march 





IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


tame through ae eae country, through a land whol; 
s otf ond a then route I i 
f Hoan blows te ays pekably teat 


another supply of food could be obtained. 

was my estimate, at which with the Zanzibaris of the 
advance column aes were now eS in Sear we 
might perform these journeys. If we could obtain no 
ee Avatiko, then our lot would be hard indeed, Up. 
to within a day's march of Avatiko, we could empl 
the canoes in carrying an extra supply of provisions, Tt 
would not be impossible to take twent ys’ rations of 
flour capita ; but a lender to peer tg such a work 
must becte ed. He performs his duties by enjoinis 
on all his followers to remember his words, to take heed 
‘of his advice, and do their utmost to conform to his 
‘instructions, 

On the 20th at dawn, 160 rifles were despatched to 
the plantations five miles inland from Amiri Falla. The 
men were told how many days Avatiko was distant, and 
that they should Soy one day in collecting food, in 
peeling, slicing and drying their plantains in the planta- 
tion, 80 that they could bring from sixty to seventy 
pounda of food, which when distributed would supply 
each person with over twenty pounds, equal to ten days! 
rations, Experience of them proved to me that the 
enterprising would carry sufficient to satisfy them with 
fifteen days’ unstinted food; others, again, despite the 
warning of death rung in their ears, would not carry 
more than would suffice them for four days. 

On the afternoon of the 21st I was gratified to sce 
that the people had been vory succesaful, Mow many 
had followed my advice it was impossible to state. The 
messes had sent half their numbers to gather the food, 
and every man had to contribute two handfuls for the 
officers and sick. Tt only remained now for the chiefs of 
the messes to be economical of the food, and the dreaded 
wilderness might be safely crossed. 





1888, 
Oct, 24. 
Bunda, 


38 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


arrows; but the Zanzibaris from the canoe behind 
leaped ashore, and by a flank attack assisted us to save 
the bewildered Manyuema, who in their careless happy 
attitudes in the canoe had offered such tempting targets 
for the natives. 

The Ituri River was now in full flood, for the rains 
fell daily in copious tropical showers. The streams and 
ereeks flowing into the Ituri from the right bank were 
deep, which caused the land party excessive worry and 
distress. No sooner had they crossed one creek up to 
the waist, than in a few moments another of equal or 
greater depth had to be waded through. They were per- 
petually wringing their clothes, and declaiming against 
the vexatious interruptions. Across the mouths of 
deeper tributaries the canoes were aligned, and served 
as floating bridges for the party to cross, while each 
man was the subject of some jest at his bedraggled ap- 
pearance. The foremost men were sure to have some 
wet mud or soapy clay on the boards; the garments of 
others would be Wippag with water, and presently fall 
after fall would testify to the exceeding slipperiness of 
the bridge, and would be hailed with uproarious chaff 
and fun, On this day thirty-two streams were crossed 
by the land party. 

On the 25th, we moved up to a camp, opposite the 
mouth of the Lenda River. We were making progress, 
but I came across the following note written that 
evening, It will be seen later that such congratula- 
tions could only havé been the outcome of a feeling of 
temporary pleasure that the day was not far distant 
when we should see the end to our harder labours. 

“TI desire to render most hearty thanks that our 
laborious travels through the forest are drawing to a 
close. We are about 160 miles to-night from the grass- 
land; but we shall reduce this figure quickly enough, 
I hope. Meantime we live in anticipation. We bear 
the rainy season without a murmur, for after the rain 
the harvest will he ready for us in the grass-land. We 
do not curse the mud and reek of this humid land now, 
though we crossed thirty-two streams yesterday, and 


40 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


1688. On the next day we rowed up to below Big Cataract, 

Oct. 27. unloaded the goods, left the canoes in the bushes, 

Huet shouldered our loads, and marched away after half an 

2 hour’s halt only, for five miles inland. We had left the 
Tturi navigation for the last time. 

We entered the Avatiko plantations after three hours’ 
march on the 28th, and just while the majority of the 
people was perilously near starvation. They spread 
over the plantations with the eagerness of famished 
wolves after prey. Here we stayed two days in 
foraging and preparing a supply of food. 

‘e had not been long at Avatiko before a couple of 
pigmies were brought to me. What relation the pair 
were to one another is not known. The man was 
young, prohably twenty-one. Mr. Bonny conscien- 
tiously measured him, and I recorded the notes. 

Height, 4 ft. ; round head, 20} in, ; from chin to back 
top of head, 24} in. ; round chest, 254 in. ; round abdo- 
men, 279 in. ; round hips, 224 in. ; round wrist, 4+ 





round muscle of left arm, 74 in. ; round ankle, 7 
round calf of leg, 7 in.; length of index finger, 2 in. ; 
length of right hand, 4 in.; length of foot, 6} in. ; 
length of leg, 22 in. ; length ‘of back, 184 in. ; arm to 
tip of finger, 193 in. 

This was the first full-grown man we had seen. His 
colour was coppery, the fell over the body was almost 
furry, being nearly half an inch in length. His head- 
dress was a bonnet of a priestly form, decorated with a 
bunch of parrot feathers ; it was either a gift or had 
been stolen. A broad strip of bark cloth covered his 
nakedness. His hands were very delicate, and at- 
tracted attention by their unwashed appearance. He 
had evidently been employed in peeling plantains. 

Not one London editor could guess the feelings with 
which I regarded this mannikin from the solitudes of 
the vast central African forest. To me he was far 
more venerable than the Memnonium of Thebes. That. 
little body of his represented the oldest types of 
primeval man, descended from the outcasts of the 
earliest ages, the Ishmaels of the primitive race, for 





MY REVERENTIAL FEELINGS FOR THE PIOMy. th 


ever shunning the haunts of the workers, deprived of the: 
joy and delight of the home hearth, eternally exiled by 
their view, to live the life of human beusts in morais 
and fen and jungle wild, Think of it! Twenty-six 
conturies ago his ancestors captured the five young 
Nassamonian explorers, and made merry with them ab 





DWANP CAVEIVE A AVATIED, 


their villages on the banks of the Niger. Even as long 
ax forty centuries ago they were known as pigmies, and 
the famous battle between them and the storks was 
rendered into song. ry mup since Hekataeus’ 
time, 500 years ¥, y have been loented in the 
region of the Mountains of the Moon, When Mesu led 
the children of Jacob out of Goshen, they reigned over 





18a, 
Oe 28, 
Avatlo, 


IN DARKEST AFRICA. 
Africa undisputed lords; they are there yet, 
tess ies of ae mi 


ties Assyria, Pere 
Tone have outed for cmpentivly 
brief periods, and expii And these little people 


nger 
ey have come hither to pitch their leaty 
unknown recesses of the forest. ‘Their 
known as Bushmen in Cape Colony, aa 
ee ieee 2 ies a in 
Monbuttu, a Balia by the Mabodé, as Wambutti in the 
Thara basin, and as Batwa under the shadows of the 
Lunae Montes, 
As the gigantic Madis, and tall Soudanese, and tallest 
Zanzibaris towered above the little man, it was delight- 
ful to obverve the thoughts within him ex them 
selves with lightning mpidity on his e,  ‘The 
wonderment that filled him, the quick shifting and 
chilling fears as to his fate, the anxious doubts that 
him, the hopes thut sprang up as he noted 
jumour on the faces, the momentary shades of anxiety, 
curiosity to know whenoe these human monsters had 
come from, what they would do with him eventually ; 
would they kill. him, how? by roasting him alive, 
or plunging him screaming into a vat-like cooking 
Pikeh Gott! T hope not, and a slight shake of the 
. with a more pallid colour on the lips and a 
| nervous twitch showed what distress he was in. He 
would do anything to deserve the favour of these hig 
men, just ns the young Nassamonians were willing to 
. do 2600 years ago, when his pigmy forefathers pointed 
| their fingers and jabbered at Temin the old Nigritian 
qlee So we took him to sit by us, and stroked him 
on the back, gave him some roast bananas to put into 
that distended aldermanic abdomen of his, and the 
pigmy smiled his gratitude. What a cunning rogue he 
was! how quick-wirted! He spoke eo eloquently by 
gesture that he was understood hy the dullest of ua. 
# far is it to the next village where we cun 
| procure food 2” 





(meme 





roc 
Aru 


IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


little maid was eloquent with sympathy in the emotions 
of the male pigmy. Her eyes ed joy, 4 subtle 
spirit glided over her features with the m of light- 
ning. There were the same tricks of by-play; the 
same doubts, the same hopes, the same curiosity, the 
same chilling fear, was felt by the impressionable soul as 
she divined what feelings moved her kinsman, She 
wale mit hata ving turkey or a Christmas 
goone ; her ts glistened with the sheen of old 
ivory, and as she stood with clasped hands drooping 
bolow—though her body was nude—she was the very 
picture of young modesty. 

‘The pair were undoubtedly man and woman. Tn him 
was a mimicked dignity, ws of Adam; in her the 
womanliness of a miniature Eve, Though their souls 
were secreted under abnormally thick folds of animalism, 
and the finer feelings inert and torpid through disuse, 
they were there for all that. And they suited the wild 
Eden of Avatiko well enough. 

Burdened with fresh supplies of dried plantains, and 
guided by the Beis we set out from the abandoned 
grove of Avatiko E.N.E., crossed the cleur stream of Ngold 
at noon, and at 3 PM, were encamped by the brook 
Epeni, We observed numerous traces of the dwarfs in 
the wilds which we had traversed, in temporary camps, 
in the crimson skins of the amoma, which they had 
ae away ufter eating the acid fruit, in the cracked 
shells of nuts, in broken twigs that served as guides to 
‘the initiated in their mysteries of wooderaft, in how- 
traps by the wayside, in the game-pits sunk here and 
there at the crossings of game-tracka, The land 
appeared more romantic than anything, we had. seen 

@ had wonnd around wild amphitheatral basing, foliage 
rising in terraces one above another, painted in different 
shades of green, and variegated with masses of crimson 
flowers, and glistening russet, and the snowdrop 
flowerets of wild mangoes, or the creamy silk floss of 
the bombax, and as we looked under a layer of foliage 
that drooped heavily above uz, we saw the sunken basin 
below, an impervious mass of lewfage grouped crown to 


en 


NONKEYS AND OTHER FOREST ANUALS, 45 


Juxurious rest. Now and then of monke ont 
bounded with prodigious leaps =< the pease a 
ea snd wah are lous i Turting ther 
lous agilit; 
bei through the air ante ios wy 
cat ite branch, restit an instant to 
mci or our line before burying them- 
se a fi the leafy depths, Ibises screamed 
their mates to hurry up to view the column of 
es and tourucos argued with one another with 
all tural harshness of a op of Rar 
pe eS, sunbirds, gre 
pea oe a few "tla lt eee "ie dar 
‘or sat drowsily 
Pairs eon ct agree ot Sones ars wae 
an odour of musk, a nce of flowers, perfume of 
Vilies mixed with the Vpn fs, he dropping 


shone over Hemet and the ek ero 
arum, und amoma, until their damp josie! 
cilia Dapec rie wave tntilinat wir tigbes 
er us next day our march underneath the eternal 
just such » land, and on the morn- 
[ER ERG Ronee aan clearing 
‘Andaki, to refresh our souls with the promised fruit 
ef its groves, The plantains were not large, 
‘but they were mature and fall, and before an hour ea 
elapsed, the wooden grates were up, and the fruit 
Tay in heaps of slives on the burs over the fire. ‘The 
word was passed that the first and second day of 
‘the month Cea be employed in aa) as much 
— could cai ‘e were in 





at 






IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


ssaenine it eastward OU hele rea one 
hom ai he Frappe to the north 
ave ey, 

ENE, Reeve tei ekie eeneareac cin 
of food that Andaki wis a mere handful compared 


we came upon a vast shen 
year had elapsed since the ae had 
Settlements had been consumed with fire, for the San 
plants were choked by the voracious undergrowth and 
at wn fig and. ae a fee bad trampled through 
igh, and spt fo for months among the wasted 
groves, und over the crushed Musa plants, through 
hd flourishing two fathoms deep, and where the 
of cut trees had sprouted and grown until their 
tops were joined to one another in one great thick 
carpet of bush. ‘Through this we carved our way with 
brandished billhooks und entlasses ; the native women 
had lost the track, and were bewildered by the wildly 
luxuriant shrubbery, under whieh we sweated in the 
damp hot-house heat, and ploughed our way through 
the deep green seu, until after ten hours we cume to a 
babbling rillet, and must perforce camp from sheer ex- 
haustion, though we had made but five miles. 
| On the seaente of the fourth we resumed the task, 
to slash, cut, sp and crawl, bore through, in and 
See rchiictar crastiiae tueel cacitally over atvtog 
rifts in the reeking compost, bend under logs, to 
tunnel away with might wand main, to drive through 
—a hungry column of men was behind, a wilderness 
before ux—to crush headlong through the plants, veer 
to the left, and now to the right, to press on and on, 
to sharpen the weapons on the stones of the brook ; 
to take a hasty drink to satisfy our thirst, and again to 
the work. Cleave away merrily, boys; sever those 
creepers ; cut those euplings down!’ No way now? then 
widen that game hole in the bush clump! ‘Come, strike 
with billhook and sword, axe and cutlass! We must 
not die like fools in thie demon world! ‘This way and 





— [= 


PROGRESS THROUGH THE FOREST. aT 


that, through and through, until after sixteen hour we 
had cut n crooked channel through the awful waste, and See * 
stood once more under the lordly crowns of the primeval 


forest, 

Paddy's traditional ete clothes ce a dress aait 
compared to mine, as 1 st woetully regardin, 
rents and tatters and threads waving in eae an 

este aie and the men ee eh 

we lool rats dragged teeth 
traps, which I thought was not a Pints But we 
hud no time for tulk ; we ate a couple of roast plantains 
for lunch, and continued our journey, and by 3 P.M 
were within half-an-hour of the Thara River. 

The next day, before it was full daylight, we were 
filing wlong un elephant track that ran parallel with the 
Thuru, which was at this time one mging series of rapide 
its whole lengthy and sounding its unceasing uproar in 
our ears. Numbers of deep tributaries were waded 
through ; but we maintained a quick pace, owing to the 
road. truck of the elephants, and by the usual hour of 
the afternoon nine miles had been covered, 

‘Thirteen Zanzibaris of the rear column, and one of 
the Danagla soldiers of Emin Pasha, had succumbed 

ing the Inst few days, aud I do not know how many 
‘Madis and Manyuema. 

On the evening of the sixth, after a march of sight 
miles, I became impressed with the necessity of finding 
food ly. we were to witness wholesale 
mortality. Starvation is hard to bear, but when louds 
must be carried upon empty stomachs, and the marches 
are long, the least break in the continuity of supply 
brings with it a train of diseases which soon thins the 
ranks. Qur Nyanza people were provident, and cked 
their stores with mushrooms and wild fenit ; but the feeble 
manioe-poisoned men of the rear column, Mndis and 
Manyueme, were utterly heedleas of advice and example 

A’youth named Amani, who looked rather faint, was 
maa to val me the truth abont what he had eaten 


mTiwilleGe eid wr, 
T will," he said. “My mess had a fair provision 


4. | 






48 EN DARKEST AFRICA. 
Cea that would have kept ua with ease two 


uy longer ; but Sulimuni, who carried it, put it down 
My the roadside while he went to gather mushrooms, 
hen he returned the food was gone, He says the 
Man; had stolen it, Each one of us then on 
ing camp last night set out to hunt for mushrooms, 
‘out of which we made a gruel, ‘That is what we had to 
eat last night for supper. ‘This morning we have fasted, 
Soe unt up mushrooms again.” 
And what will you eat to-morrow #” 
“To-morrow is in the hands of God. 1 will live in 
that I shall find something.” 
is youth, he was only nineteen, had carried sixty 
ee of cartridges in the meantime, and would cai 
it again to-morrow, and the next day, until he dropped, 
and mensured his length with eyes upturned to the 
dark cope of leaves above, to be left there to mildew 
and rot; for ont of nothing, nothing can be extracted 
to feed hungry men. He was only «solitary instance of 
over 400 le. 
We reached a Manyuema ee anle Uledi recognised 
it aa being a place where he had halted during a forage 
| tour to the west of the Ihura, while he was waiting for 
| Messrs Jephton and Nelson at Ipoto, and the advance 
column was journeying to Ibwiti im November, 1887. 
i On the 7th a halt was ordered, that a column might 

be sent under Uledi to search the clearing of Andari, 
aix miles N.N.W. of the eamp, but over a hundred were 
so wenk that they were unable to go, whereupon the 

| ‘messes were ordered to bring their pots up, and three 
handfuls of flour were placed in each to make gruel 
with, that they might have strength to reach the 
plantation. 

| 

| 

| 

| 


ta 

On the 8th, about 200 remained silent in camp 
awaiting the foragers, In the afternoon, perceivin, 
‘that it, was too Jong a fast to wait for them we serve 
‘out more plantain flour. 

On the 9th, the foragers had not arrived. Two men 
had in camp. One reeled from the effects of a 
Poisonous fungus, as they came to get another ration of 


— 






EE 
i 


IS DARKEST AFRICA. 


50 
tribe re ihe have ‘Te was lined with 
and shi erimson 


I x of nuts, and ar 0 
ihrynia berries. 0 wood-beans, or fenexsi, or 
found in this region, as on the south 

i River. On reaching eamp, | found that at 
i eee camp at which we aa 
EUREULINEN aNSias A Wie peated 
Rapids, two Soudancse of the rear-column, 
in the service of Mr, Bonny, and 

a fine young Zanzibari, from # poisoned skewer 


veleeeee 
cs 
oH 


ch patronized by the tribes. This 

we followed for two hours. We eT alt ware they 
had stopped to light their pipes, aud to crack nuts, and 
trap game, and halt to gossip. The Lig broken 
three feet from the ground, showing that they were 
sniy by dwarfs, DSthacal ge Grane Bala a ly the 
showed high delicate insteps, proving their ancient 
ancestry and aristocratic descent, and small feet not 


, and towered to mifivent heights. 

observed as we filed into camp that it was time to 
obtain a farther supply of. food, and rest somewhere, 
the bearing of the le lacked confidence, their forms 
were shrinking under the terrible task, and perpetual 
daily toil and round of marching and hunger. T could 
have wept at the exces of misfortunes which weighed 
us daily lower towards the grave; but we had been for 
0 Jong strained to bear violent vicissitudes, and so fre- 
ae ly afflicted with sights of anguish and suffering, 

‘we were reduced tohear each day's tale of calamity 
in sorrowful silence. What losses we had already borne 


—t 


ARAMICSY OXMERLET 











‘men rushed forward Toud shouts, and 
a chase; and one over-fat young fellow of about seven- 
‘Teen was captured and brought to our camp as a prize. 
We saw the little Jack Horner, too fat by many pounds ; 
but the story belongs to the headmen, who delivered it 
with infinite humour. 

Mr. Bonny was sent to the Thura River on the 17th, 
to examine an old reported to be there, but 
returned unsuccessful in finding a canoe, but with the 


information that the river aj to flow from E.N.E., 
and was about sixty yards wide, with quiet current, and 
good de] 


Bane oon, cA the at ais and 16th of Seve 
were it e in ing amends 
for their past nbstinence, "What with builed, roasted 
tains and Borage, they must have consumed an 
immense number, hably each man had eaten 140 
plantains during the three days N 
Within a short time after leaving Andikumu on 
the 19th, we d through Anduta; and then the 
column by @ picturesque hill called Kakwa, 
over a rough country bristling with immense mck 
en and boulders thickly covered, and surrounded 
with depths of ferns. Among the rocks near our camp 
‘on thix date was found a store of corn and bananas, 





at i 








“NOMLINANMY 40 ARVO AHL AVAY ONUAMUVD SAIMOAA AHL HAAOORIO BLAO08 HHL 








WE ENCOUNTER 4 NATIVE CARAVAN. or 





with su; 
from in ion after their revel at Andikumu that 
were unfit for travel. 


apis Meet ha 
Tetain rain in and made it, i A 
At the noonday halt the leader Cee fer 
a few hundred yards ahead on the path and encountered 
4 native caravan from Anditoke, N, The natives 


captured. These effects consisted of iron , knobs, 
bracelets, und onklets, and calamus fibre leg-ri 

a few native smith’s tools, and, most singular of aM 
several unfired essing cartridges, 

The first thought that was suggested was that Fort 
Bodo had either evacuated or captured, or that 
some patrols had been waylaid ; but on reflection we 
ao on the conviction that these cartridges had 
belonged to some raiding parties of Manyuema, but 
that originally they were our property. 

travelling powers of the men was noticeably low 
‘on the 21st; they still suffered from their late debauch, 
At moon. of ae day we cee in Be a ils a whieh 
proved that, ite ev t to find a Jeading 
custward we were aeheee north. LS 

‘Chamu Issa, the last of the Somalis, was reported dead 
‘on this day, but at the noon halt T was Breatly gratified 
to see him; his couse, being as h» was the last of the 


ee 4 


? 





IN DARKEST AFRICA, 


Somalis, excited great interest. A portion from my 

- own table went to him daily, and two Soudunese were 
detailed for extra pay to serve, feed, and carry him. 
Up to the evening of this day thirty-two out of the 
Banalya rear column had perished, At Banalya I had 
estimated that about half of the number would not 
survive. While they were being carried in the canoes 
‘there was no call for exertion, but the march overland 
had been most fatal to the unfortunates, 

On the 22nd, soon after the advance had reached 
camp, u cold and heavy shower of rain fell, which de- 
moralized many in the column ; their failing energies 
and their impoverished systems were not proof against 
cold. Madis and Zanzibaris dropped their loads in the 
road, and rashed helter-skelter for the cump, One 
Madi managed to craw! near my tent, wherein a candle 
was lit, for m a rainstorm the forest, even in daylight, 
ia as dark as on an ordinary night in the grass-land, 
Seep him groan, I issued out with the candle, and 
found the naked body rigid in the mud, unable to move. 
As ho saw the candle flame his eyes dilated widely, and 
he sttempted to grasp it with his hands. He was at 
once borne to a fire, and laid within a few inches of it, 
and with the addition ofa pint of hot broth made from the 
Liebig Company's extract of meat we restored him to his 
senses, On the oad in front of the rear guard two Madis 
died, and also one Zanzibari of the rear column stricken 
instantancously to death by the intensely cold rain, 

We made a march of two hours the next day, and 
then despatched forty-five choice men ahead to try and 
obtain meal for the salvation of the Banalya men and 
the Madis, whose powers were too weak for further 
effort. ‘The scouts returned within twenty-four hours 
with a goat, which was at once slaughtered to make 
thirty gallons of soup. When thickened with two 
pounds of wheaten flour, the soup made a most weloome 
meal for over sixty men. We reached Indemau by 
10 aM. on the 25th, The village was situated in a 
hollow at the base of a mount, and was distant from 
the Dai branch of the Thuru six miles. 


i 


WELCOME FOOD AT INDKMAU, 


50 
At Tndemau the Jong-enduring members of the 
Expedition received another respite from total 


: 


manner that it was impossible to teach these big 
children to economise their rations, so it wax impossible 
to teach them moderation when they found themselves 
in the midst of eis At Andikumu an ane anes 
have been supplied with wholesome food, but 
inordinate voracity of the faumished people had been 
FILE is eee Rueten matic anaes their 
intemperate appetites it on such sickening reple- 

a every morning in listening 
to their complaints and sdministering enemata to 
relieve the congested bodies. 

A from Indemau was discovered, leading across 
the Dui River; there was another to Indeperri, 
ete ne about fifteen miles N.E. from Fort 

. m my origh to steer a 
course through the forest wie volt eke us direct to 
the grass-land, along a more northerly route than the 
line of Ipoto and Fort, Bodo, after sending a detachment 
to uccounts with Kilonga- ; but in our 
endeavour to find a ford or ferry across the Ihuru we 
had been compelled by the high flood to continue 
parallel with the river until now. Observation proved 


within a reasonable distance of Fort lo, notwith- 
standing oa aon assurance that = ae — 
impregnable and the in were now wil nin 
Pithated tis Nyense, cad sutraded doubis in my aniod 
which I thought would best be resolved by deflecting 
ont course southward, and sweeping past the old Fort, 
and seeing with our own eyes what hud really occurred. 
Mr, Bonny was therefore sent with the chief Rashid and 
ars to build a bridge across the Dui River, 

a halt of five daya the Expedition marched 





60 IN DARKEST AFRICA 


ane from Tndeman on the ist of December for the Dui. 
plfide,, Mr. Bonny and old Rashid, with their assistants, 


re 
putting the finishing touches to the bridge, a work 
which reflected great credit on all concerned in itw 
construction, but es) lly on Mr. Bonny, Without 
halting an instant the eolumn marched across the five 
branches of the Dui, over a length of rough but 
substantial woodwork, which measured in the aggregate 
eighty yards, without # single accident. 

On the other side of the Dui we made a rough 











in 


[BREDOING TINE DOK TIVE 


muster of the people, and discovered that thirty-four of 
the rear column bad died, and that out of sixteen 
Zanzibaris on the sick list, fourteen were of the 
Yambuya party, and they all ‘appeared to be ha 
condition that a few days only would decide their fate, 
Every goat and fowl that we could procure were distri- 
buted to these poor people in the hope of saving them. 
We cooked for them; Mr. Bonny was directed to 
administer medicines daily ; we relieved them of every 
article, excepting their own rations, and yet so wrecked 





—— a 





CAMP AT NGWET2A. 61 
cae re? ae es had endaved at Yam- 


fg est =: abrasion from plants, poi 


bi raging uleer, 
cy ee ma inches actos 


which in 

ohrealaae the comforts and rest obtained in a metro- 
politan hospital would have arrested this rapid decline. 
We made a short march to the small i- 


Epee 

ee 
nu 
HN 
8 


een of pes rarer disparted oy 


ct aio cp mw edo he 
December. Presently into the centre 
uddered gout, with two fine kids Pd 
ponth Tanase kepieiae gene Suet 
Ey ly, we 8} 
presen tha caAoabied gift of the les eons 
ficed them, Half-an-hour inter we were told that one 
the Uchu natives attached to Mr. Bonny had 
received an arrow in his body, and that the dwarfs had 
erase Manrosme ley, A party wus sent 
infra the hoy's hody into the woods, where it could 
te ied by his friends, but in the morning the meat 
AW 
had een eriers were areal to proceed ae ie 
camp to prepare five days’ provisions of food. 
cries were heard ringing from end to end, and ey 


et 
2 


= 
u 
be 


S 


ee material for the wooden grates were brought in, 
and throughout the 5th the je devoted themselves 
to the preparation of four 


The next day, ax we marched southerly it na 
observed that ‘we ware following a oe ual slope 
to the river Thuru. We crossed broad and 
‘streams, with breadths of mal coloured red 

Beakee by dense nurseries of Raphia 

t 3 ran the advance-guand 


tt 
AL 
z 
z 


Dai Krew: 


ook 


Xpveetan, 


62 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


stumbled upon severn! families of dwarfs, and a capture 
was made of an old woman, « girl, and a boy of eighteen, 
besides a stock of bananas, and some fowls, The 
old” Indy was us strong as w horse apparently, and to 
the manner of carrying a load of bananas she appeared 
+0 be qnite accustomed. 

‘The family of little people intimated that they knew 
the forest well, but they had a ping itslination for an 
E.N.E, course, which would have taken us away from 
Fort Bodo, They were therefore sent to the rear, and 
we awung along S,, and by E., sometimes 8.S,E., tra- 
paved six streams on the 7th, and a similar number on 

¢ Bth. 

Soon after the headquarters’ tent had been pitched, 
and the und h oF leafy plants had been cleared 
somewhat, I observed a young fellow stagger; and 
going up to him I questioned him as to the cause. I 
was astonished to be told that it was from wenkness, 
and want of food. Have you enten all your five days’ 
rations already? No, he had thrown it away because 
the dwarf captives had said that in one day they would 
eee famous place for plantains, the “ biggest in the 
wor! 


Upon extending my inquiries it was found that there 
were at least 150 people in the camp who had likewise 
followed his example, and discarded superfluous food, 
and on that day, the 8th, they had nothing. The head- 
men were called that night to a council, and after being 
reproached for their reckless conduct, it was resolved 
that on the next day almost every able-bodied person 
should return to Ngwetza which we had left on the 
morning of the 6th, The distance was 194 hours for 
the caravan, but as much time was necessarily lost in 
cutting through the jungly uusdergrowth, and even now 
and then in laying # youre, the forage party would be 
able to return to Ngwetza in eleven hours’ travel, 

On the morning of the 9th, about 200 people started 
for the plantain groves of Ngwotza, but before departing 
they contributed about 200 Tbs. of plantain flour us a 
reserve for the sickly ones, and guards of the camp. 


mm 


‘RETURN TO NOWRTLA FOR FOOD, 68 


We ay about pe fala men, women = “ 
ies, them whom were already distressed, 0%, 
A eaealeaamh tal oh Bont Ve caus amon oe the day, Gump, 
then Mr find the 


. Bonny with ten men to 
Thura River. According to my calculations, the 
was in N, lat, 1° 27/15", and B, long, 29° 21 ' 30%, 
about nine geographical miles in an air-line north of 
Fort Bodo, but it was useless to show the chart to men 
dreading thut starvation was again imminent. All thee 
saw was the eternal myriads of trees with a dead blacl 
unknown environing the camp round about, shutti 
ont all hope, and a viewleas and stern prospect of rigi 
wood with « durk cope of leaves burying them out of 
ight of sky and sunshine, as though they lived under a 
pl But ety knew that the Thuru was not far from 


some little encouragement would be gained. Mr. Bonny 
succeeded in finding the river, and blazed & path to i 


peasacaie that our journeys over the same ground had 
led me to detect; and buried in my Norie, and 

and charts, my mind was fully occupied, But on 
the 14th my work was done. I lived in hope the next day, 
with my hearing on the strain for the sound of voices. 
The people locked miseruble, but hopeful. A box of 
European provisions was opened, a pot of butter and milk 
were taken out, and a table-spoonful of each dropped 
into the earthenware pots that were already filled with 
boiling water. In this manner a thin broth was made 
which would serve to protract the agony of existence. 
‘On the sixth day the pots were aguin ranged round me 
in a semi-circle, and in rotation, cach cook brought his 
‘vessel of hot water to receive his butter and milk, and 
after being well stirred, marched off with his group to 
distribute the broth necording to measure. A little 
heartened by the warm liquid they scattered through 
the woods to hunt up the red berries of the phrynia, 
‘aud pick up now Gictaincrts hh aanomirs whicad aoa’ 
sweet pulp appeared to quiet the gnawing of the 


ek 


Camp. 


et IN DARKEST AFRICA, 


stomach. A mushroom in the course of several hundred 
umbling would perhaps full to the lot of the seeker, 
when 130 men have wandered about and about, to 
and fro, searching for the edibles, the circle widens, and 
day by day the had to penetrate further and 
farther away from the camp. And it happened that 
while searching with eagerness, impelled on and on by 
the eager stomach, that they were carried some miles 
away, and they had paid no regard to the course they 
ree bbe and when they wished to return to camp 
they knew not which way to seek it, and two full-grown 
men and Saburi, a little boy of eight yeara, did not 
return. J had # peculiar liking for the small child. His 
duty was to carry my Winchester, and cartridge pouch, 
‘He was usually a dark cherab, round as a roller, strong 
and sturdy, with an old man’s wisdom within his little 
boy's head, and Seana the caravan was on its 
we it, I looked back often 
and often to see how little Suburi trotted steudily after 
me, Being the ritle-bearer, trained to bo at my heels 
at any strange sound, T deprived myself of many a 
choice bit to nourish Suburi with, so that his round 
stomach had drawn u smile from all who looked at him, 
Me looked like a little boy with a keg under his frock, 
But, als! in the leat few days the Na had collapsed, 
mud he, like all the others, had penetrated into the 
wilderness of phrynia to search for berries, On this 
day he was lost, 

‘the dark the muzzle-loaders of the Manyuema were 
employed to fire signals. Abont 9 p.m. we thought we 
heard the little bay's vaice. The halloo waa sounded, 
und u reply came from the other end of the camp. One 
of the great ivory horns boomed out ite deep sound. 
‘Then the ery came from the opposite side. Some of the 
anensaid that it must be Suburi's ghost wailing his death. 
The picture of the little fellow seeing the dark night 
come down upon him with its thick darkness in those 
eerie wilds, with fierce dwarfs prowling about, and wild 
boar and huge chimpanzee, leopards and cheetahs, with 
troops of elephants trampling and crashing the crisp 


— 


MY BOY SABURI. 66 


arate ete i ere 
ing in fact, round about him—de us 
etn @ gave him up for lost, Came 

It an awful day. In the afternoon a boy 
had died. Three persons were lost. The condition of 
the majority was most disheartening. Some could not 
stand, but fell down in the effort, These sights began 
towet on my nerves, until I began to feel not only moral 
sympathy, but physical as well, as though bodily weak- 
ness Was infectious. 

‘On my bed that night the thought of the absent men 
troubled me; but however distasteful was the idea that 
a terrible imisfortune—such as being Jost in the woods, 
‘or collapsing from hunger before they reached the 

‘it hecame impossible not to regard the darkest 
view and ‘t the worst, in order, if possible, to save 
4 remnant of the Expedition that the news might be 
earried to the Pusha and thence to civilisation some 
day. 1 pictured the entire column perished here in this 
camp, and the Pasha wondering month after month 
what had become of us, and we corrupting and decaying 
in this unknown corner in the great forest, and ever 
blaze on the trees healed up, and every trail obliterat 
within a year, and our burial-place remaining unknown 
until the end of time, Indeed, it appeared to me as if 
we were drifting steadily towards just such a fate. 
Here were about 200 men without food going thirty-five 
miles to week it, Not 150 would oes reach it; the 
i would throw fogerty a ze sea Lee 

|, to wait, to m others, if perchance they 
returned. If an accident to the 50 bravest men happen, 
what then? Some are shot oy dwarfs; the larger 
aborigines attack the others in a ~ ‘The men have 
no leader; they scatter about, they become bewildered, 
lose their way, or are speared one after another. While 
we are waiting, ever waiting for people who cannot 
return, those with me die first hy threes, sixes, tens, 


tention. and then, like a andl ‘extinguished, we are 

i vomething had to be done. 

ute nih day we made the broth as usual, a pot 
nL S 


|i il) 














a 


IN DARKEST AFRICA. 
of milk for 130 and the 
of such a nature as 





sii, a 
a * 
aes iaadate, hail seated ap 
with them. The departu retly 
returning, the Teaping, of fifty men 
4 bush antelope, the throwing away 
jences of the 
fed plantations, 
they paid to 
i ing them to develope into rabid ulcers ; 
the sale of their rifles to men who would have enslaved 
i hy blockheads day after day, 


say they could nov 

isipomibility’of a fearfil diester. . Were 
with three officers lost in the wood for aix 
lost: close to this camp 

they have not returned? Did T not 

mn that we should all die if they were 
the fourth day? Was not this the 
of their absence? Were there not fifty 
to death now? and much else of the same 


By-and-by, the conviction stole on their minds that 
by accident we were to remain in camp inactive for 
Uhree days, we should then be too weak to seck food 
agreed with me that it would be « wise thing 

ds, and set out on our return to Newetza 

me for ourselves. But there wus one diffi- 

» If we buried the goods, and fifty sick men 
to remain in the camp to follos ua, should 


we return to the caché, we should find that the sick 
had exhumed the goods, and wrecked everything out of 
mischief. 


‘Mr. Bonny then came to the rescue, and offered to 
oy with ten men in camp, if I provided food for him 

the gurrison for ten days, the time we decided we 
should be absent. Food to make o light gruel for so 


a ea 








OUR STARVATION CAME 69 


small a number for ten days was not difficult to find. rs08. 
‘Half a cupful of cornflour per man for thirteen men for yestn 
ten days was measured, with the addition of fonr milk Camp. 
biscuits per man each day, A few tins of butter and 

milk were also set ay to assist the groel, 
For those unwilling or unable to follow us to the 
plantains we could do nothing. What might sustain a 
small ison of thirteen men for many days would not. 
save: isp ce oie colle Stele ly so far 
gone, that only an abundance of digestive plantain floar 
could possibly save them, 

On this morning little Saburi walked into camp quite 
unconcerned, and fresh us from « happy outing. C Why 
Saburi! where have you been?” “I lost my way 
while picking berries, and T wandered about, and near 
night Tcame tow track. I saw the marks of the axes, 
and 1 said-—Lo! this is our road, and I followed it 
thinking I was coming to camp. But, instead of that, I 
saw only a big river, It was the Thora! Then I found 
a big hollow tee, and 1 went into it and slept; and. 
then I came back along the road, and so and so, until I 
walked in here. That is all.”” 

We mustered every soul alive in the camp on the 
morning of the 15th. Sadi, the Manyuema headman, 
reported fourteen of his people unable to travel ; Kibbor 
hom reported his sick brother ax being the only person 
of his party too sick to move; Fundi had a wife and a 
little boy too weak for the journey. The Expedition was 
obliged to leave 26. 43 persons verging on dissolution 
unless food could be procured within twenty-four. hours. 
Assuming a cheery tone, though my heart was wellenigh 
breaking, I told them to be of good courage, that 1 was 
gving to hunt up the absentees, who no doubt were 
fonang themselves; most likely T should find them on 

ond, in which case they would have to run all the 
- Meantime, pry for my success. God ia the 
‘one who ean help you !” 

set out 1 FM. on our return journey towards 


aweees: thirty-five miles distant. with sixty-five men 
boys and twelve women. We travelled until night, 


ie = | 


| 





mo JN DARKEST AFRICA. 


and then threw ourselves on the gronnd, souttered 
= a. about in groups, or singly, cach under his owa clump of 
‘Camp. bush, silent and sad, and communing with his own 
hts, Vain was it for me to seek for that sleep 
] wl is the “balm of hurt minds.” Too many 
memories erowded about me; too many dying forms 
haunted me in the darkness ; my lively fancier were too 
distorted by dread, which painted them with dismal 
colours ; the stark forma lying in links along the path, 
which we had seen that afternoon in our tramp, were 
Lang too solemn for sudden oblivion. ‘The stars could 
not be seen to seck Comfort in their twinkling ; the 
por hearts avonnd me were too hoavy to utter naught 
it groans of despair; the flres were not lit, for there 
was no to cook—imy grief was great. Out of the 
pall-blick darkness came out the eerie shapes that haunt 
the fever-land, that jibe and mock the lonely man, and 
weave figures of flame, and draw fiery forms in the 
mantle of the night; and whispers breathed through 
heavy air of graves and worms, and forgetfulness ; 
und a demon hinted in the dazed brain that ‘twere 
better to rest than to think wich a sickening heart ; and 
the sough of the wind through the crowns of the thick- 
Yush seemed to sigh and moan “ Lost! lost! 
Jost!) Thy Inbour and grief ace in vain. Comfortles+ 
~ days upon days; brave lives are sobbing their lust ; man 
after man roll down to the death, to mildew and rot, 
and thou wilt be left alone!" 

“Allah ho Akbar.” was the ery that rang through 
the gloom, from a man with w breaking henrt. ‘The 
ait went pealing along throngh the dark, and they 

| roused the echoes of “ God is geet” within me. Why 
. should 4 Moslem recall a Christian to thoughts of his 
| God? “ Ye fools, when will ve he wise ? He that eget 
the ear, shall He not hear? He that formed the eye, 
shall He not see?" And, lo! worthier thoughts possess 
the mind, the straining of the eyes through the dark- 
‘ness is relaxed, and the sight is inverted to see dumb 
witnesses of past mercies on this or that forgotten 
occasion; one memory begets another, until the 











PLANTAINS OF NGWETZ4. a 


stubborn heart 'ix melted, and our needs are laid as upon tem 
a tablet before the Great Deliverer. peas 

‘Towards morning T dozed, to spring up @ few hour "Cam. 
later as the darkness was fading, a ghostly light 
showed the still groups of my companions. 

“Up, boys, up! to the plantains! up! Please God we 
shall have plantains tonay 1" ‘This was uttered to 
cheer the ead hearts, Within a few minntes we bad 
filed away from our earthy couches, and were on the 
truck in “the cheerless light of the morning, some 
hobbling from sores, some taping from ulcers, some 
staggering from weakness, We had commenced to feel 
warmed up with the motion of the march, when, hark { 

T heard a murmur of voices ahead. Little Suburi held 
the rifle ready, observant of the least sign of the hand, 
when I saw a great pile of green frit rising above the 
broad leaves of the phrynia that obstructed « clear 
view, and intuitively one divined that this must be the 
column of foragers advancing to meet us, and in a 
a of te the weak, serra Late cripple, a 

ing and moaning people forgot their griefs an 

chee woes, and shouted the grateful chant which goes 
up of its own necord towards the skies out of the full 
and sensitive hearts, “Thanks be to God.” Englishman 
and African, Christian and Pagan, all alike confoss Him, 
He is not here, or there, but everywhere, and the heart, 
of the grateful’ man confesseth Him. 

Tt needed only one view of the foremost men to have 
told what the heedless, thoughtless herd had been doi 
Tt was no time for rey ies, however, but to light 

sit down and rowst the green fruit, and get 
strength for the return, and m an hour we were 
swinging away back again to Starvation Camp, where 
we arrived at 2.30 Pa, to be welcomed as only dying 
men can welcome those who lend the right hand to 
help them. And all that afternoon young and old, 
Zonzibori and Manyuema, Soudanese and Madi, forgot 
their sorrows of the past in the pleasures of the present, 
and each vowed to be more provident in the future— 
until the next time. 


Mam | 


De it 


Ahura 
Rieye 


n IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


On the 17th we reached the Thur, and the next day 
forded the river, and from thence we cut our way 
through the forest, th h bush and plants whieh were 
the undergrowth, and early in the afternoon of the 19th 
we Sieger out of the trackless hush, und presently 
were on the outskirts of the plantations of Fort Bodo, 
at which all the people admired greatly, 

On the 20th we ent a track throngh the deserted plan- 
tations, and after an hour's hard work reached our well- 
known road, which had been so often patrolled by us. 
We soon discovered traces of recent travel, and’ late 
foraying in piles of plantain skina near the track; but 
we could not discover by whom these were made, | Pro- 
bably the natives had retire] to their settlements ; per- 
haps the dwarfs were now banqueting on the fat of the 
land We approached the end of our broad western 
military road, and at the turning met some Zanzibari 
patrols who were as much astonished ws we were our- 
selves ut the sudden encounter. Volley after volley 
soon rang esr the silence of the clearing, The 
fort soon responded, and a stream of frantic men, wild 
with joy, udvanced by leaps und bounds to meet us; 
and oe the first was my dear friend the Doctor, who 
announced, with eyes daneing with pleasure, “ All is 
well at Fort Bodo.” 


CHAPTER XXII. 
THE GREAT CENTRAL AFRICAN FOREST. 
Profewor Drummond's statements repecting, Africa Dimensions, of 
‘tho great forest Vegotation-Tuseot lifo— ‘of tho treo, 
c 


bay ete roe 
—tho of Mife— The f 
Honeine—A ferent npn Lropien vretation ni th oF 


fev decree of tbe woods--Came inthe f wo did, 
‘not hunt the Hirds—The | Simian 
<The sal bein and tho beni Tho. gst "Bight dae 


turhancer Ghimpanase- he ralniast ming 
othe earthy four oe Upper Aruwigt-‘The diffrent tribes and 
fhnlr nagnegre Shee fotures and cosianae Fein + 


wiih ome eaptives at Lngweddé—The Wamu 
fears; thelr dweligs and’ mode of living “The Batwa dwarte= 
tine the fort village ‘wo, Tzyptians captufed by the darts 
rrowe—Our treatment 


Holo Tho 

ty the nee Te Wild fruits Of the fore Donets 
aimale--Alneaty ofthe Maite wad Zanctbarle—he Congo ails 
ond the frost products, 


Aw English Professor, qualified to write F.R.S.E., .G. i aaa, 
after his name, who is a talented writer, and gifted with Pes 
firt-class descriptive powers, while confesing that he 

was but a “minor traveller, possessing bat few assets," 
rye ad upon the following bold statements respecting 


¥ eos the coast belt with rank yellow 5, dot 
here and there a palm, scatter through it a few demo- 
ralised villages, and stock it with the leopard, th 
hyena, the crocodile, and the hippopotamus ; clothe the 
mountainous plateaux noxt, both af them with endless 
rang not grand umbrageous forest, like the forests of 
South America, nor matted jungle like the forests of 
India, but with thin, rather weak forest, with forest. of 
low trees, whose half-grown trunks and scanty leaves 


a | 


4N DARKEST APRICA. 
tse, offer no shade from the tropical sun,”—but you will find 
| nothing in all these trees to remind you that: you ure in 
forts the ics, “Day after day you may wander through 








with nothing except the climate to remind 
mi where you are * *" “The fairy luhyrinth of 
| faa anal palms, the festoons of climbing: plants block- 


ing the paths and scenting the forests with their re- 
sp! ne tee sees gorgeous plone of cae the 

ly plumaged birds, the juets, the monkey swing- 
LA his trapeze in the shaded bowers—these are 
i to Africa.” 

“Once a week you will see a palm; once in three 
months the monkeys will crow your path; the flowers 
on the whole are few, the trees are poor, and, to be 
honest" —but cnough ; if this is honest description, the 
reader had better toss my books aside, for this chapter 
ee, to prove that I ditfer in toto with the learned 

feasor'’s views respecting tropical Afrieu, 

q We have travelled together thus far 1670 miles 
through the t central African forest, and we can 
vouch that the above description by Profesor Drum- 
mond bears uo more resemblance to (ropical Africa than 
the tore of Devon, or the moors of Yorkshire, or the 
downs of Dover represent the smiling scenes of England, 

| of leafy Warwickshire, the gardens of Kent, and the 
| ious vales of the isle, jyasealand is not Africa, 
mut itself, Neither can we call the wilderness of 

Masui Land, or the serub-eovered deserts of Kalahari, 

or the rolling grass land of Usukuma, or the thin 

forests of Unyamwezi, or the ochreous in-covered 

area of Ugogo, anything but sections of a continent that 

te many zones. Africa is about three times greater 

than Europe in its extent, and is infinitely more varied. 

You have the desert of deserts in the Sahara, you have 

the steppes of Eastern Rugsia in Masai Land and parts 

IRRERAanthy Assist) yon Hava 'the (Castilian uplands in 
Unyamwezi, you have the best parts of France repre= 

sented by t, you have Switzerland in Ukonju and 

Toro, the Alps in Rawenzori—you have Braxil m the 

Congo basin, the Amazon in the Congo River, and its 

















a = 


ae — 


DIMENSIONS OP THE FOREST. % 


immense forests rivalled bh Central African forest 1H, 

which 1 am about to descril hee 
‘The greatest length of this forest, that is from near 
in South Man: to Bagbomo on 
the Welle-Makua in West Niam-niam, is 621 miles; 
its average breadth ia 517 miles, which makes a 
compact square aren of 321,057 square miles. This 
is exclusive of the forest areas separated or pene- 
trated into by campo-like reaches of gras land, or of 
the broad belts of timber which fill the lower levels 


of cach great river basin like the Lumani, Lulungu, 
Welle-Mubangi, and the parent river from Bolobo to the 
Loikn River, 


The Congo and the Aruwimi rivers enabled us to 
penetrate this vast area of primeval woods a consider- 
able length. I only mean to treut, therefore, of that 
portion which extends from Yambuya in 25° 3)’ E. 1, 
to Indesura, 29° 59’= 926) English miles ina straight 


line. 

Now let us look at this great forest, not for a 
scientific analysis of ite woods and luctions, but. 
to get a real idea of what it is like, It covers 
such a vast area, it is so varied and yet so uniform 
in ite fentures, that it would require many to 
treat of it properly. Nay, if we regard it too closely, 
a ae specialists would be needed. We have 
no to examine the buds and the Howers or the 
frnit, and the many marvel of vegetation, or to regurd 
the fine differences between burk und leaf in the various 
towering trees around ux, or to See the different 

jiona ii i gums, or whiet: 
drip in milky tears or amber globules, or opaline 
pastils, or to observe the industrious ants which 
ascend and descend up and down the tree shafts, 
whose deep wrinkles of bars are as valleys and ridges to 
the insect armies, or to wait for the furious struggle 
which will gurely ensue between them and yonder army 
of red ants. Nor at this time do we care to probe into 
that mighty mass of dead tree, brown aud porous ws a 
sponge, for already it is a mere semblance of a pro- 


ii aa 


= 


7% IN DARKEST AFRICA. 
strate log. Within it is alive with minute tribes. It 
would charm an entomologiat, Pat your ear to it, and 
you hear a distinct murmarous hum,” It is the stir and 
movement of insect life in many forms, matchless in 
size, glorions in colour, radiant in livery, rejoicin 
their occupations, exultant in their fierce but brief life, 
most insatiate of their kind, ravaging, foraging, fighting, 
destroying, building, and swarming everywhere and ex- 
ploring everything. Lean but your hand on a tree, 
but your k on the ground, seat yourself 
‘on # fallen branch, you will then understand what 
venom, fury, voracity, and activity breathes around you. 
Open your notebook, the page uttracts a dozen butter- 
flies, a honey-hee hovers over your hand ; other forms 
of bees dash for your eyes ; « wasp buzzes in your ear, a 
huge hornet menaces your face, an army of pismires 
come marching to your feet. Some are already crawling 
up, and will presently be digging their scisor-like 
mandibles in your neck. Woe ! woe ! 

And yet it is all beautiful—but there must be no 
sitting or lying down on this seething earth. It is not 
like your pine graves and your dainty woods in 
England. It is a tropic world, and to enjoy it you must 
keep slowly moving. 

imagine the whole of France and the Tberian pen- 
insula closely pucked with trees varying from 20 to 
180 feet high, whose crowns of foli interlace and 
prevent any view of aky and sun, and each tree from 
4 few inches to four feet in diameter, Then from 
tree to tree run cables from two inches to fifteen 
inches in diameter, up and down in loops und festoons 
and W's and badly-formed M’s; fold them round the 
trees in great tight coils, until they have run up 
the entire height, like endless anacondas ; let them 
Hower and leaf luxuriuntly, and mix up ubove with 
the foliage of the trees to hide the sun, then from 
the highest branches lot fall the ends of the eables 
reaching near to the ground by hundreds with frayed 
extremities, for these represent the air roots of the 
Epiphiytes : let slender cords hang down also in tassels 








+ - 


| ae 7 
THE VAST AND UMBRAQKOUS FORKST: 7 


Ge thread-work at the enda Work others 
tiene and through these as confusedly as possible, 
it 


lent branch to branch—with absolute 
of material, and ut every fork and on 


represent the peas plant—and orchids and 
clusters of egetable marvels, and a drapery of delicate 
ferns which abound. Now cover tree, branch, twig, and 


faseaets: ere. 
= sb is compact as described above, we may not 


it a gia nti down to its roots, or scorched it |, or 

a has been uprooting a few trees, then the race 

for air and light has caused a multitude of baby trees 

to rush npward—erowded, crushing, and treading upon 

and strangling one another, until the whole is one 
vious bush. 

if the aver forest is n mixture of these scenes, 

‘There will probably be groups of fifty trees standing 

like columns of a cathedral, grey and solemn in the 

twilight, and in the midst there will be a naked an 

gaunt patriarch, bleached itl fect around if ee 

grown # young community, each young tree clambering 

to become heir to the area of Teht and sunshine 

onee ocenpied by the sire The law of primogeniture 
igus here also. 


Batiiccestalnlac. death teem wounds, aicknesm, decay, 
hereditary disense und old age, und various necidents 
thinning the forest, aS the pane the weakly, the 

as among humanity. bus suppose & 
Be eritg ae yan le on fomlent’ oon of 
Anak. By head he lifts himself above his fellows 
the monarch of nll he surveys; but: his pride attracts the 
lightning, and he becomes shivered to the mots, he 
topples, declines, and wounds half a dozen other trees in 
his fall. This is why we see #0 many tumorous ex- 


— , 


8 IN DARKEST AFRICA, 


-creavences, great goitrous swellings, and deformed trunks. 
‘The peri Se Gata ave Oaqennly bean ‘outlived by 


Few. the trees they had half strangled, and the deep murks 


of their forceful pressure may be traced up to the forks, 
Some have sickened by intense rivalry of other kinds, 
and have perished at an immature age; some have 
with a deap crook in their stems, by # prostrate 
be whieh had fallen and pressed them obliquely. Some 
have heen injured by branches, fallen durmg ‘a storm, 
and dwarfed untimely, Some have been pares by 
rodents, or have heen sprained by elephants leaning on 
them to rub their prurient hides, and ants of all kinds 
have done infinite mischief, Some have heen pecked 
at by birds, until we see ulcerona sores exuding great 
lobules um, and frequently tall and short nomads 
have tried their axes, spears, and knives, on the trees, 
and hence we see that decay and death are busy here 
as with us, 

To complete the mental picture of this ruthless 
forest, the ground should be strewn thickly with half 
formed humus of rotting twigs, leaves, branches ; every 
fow yarda there should he a prostrate giant, a recking 
compost of rovten fibres, aud departed generations of 
insects, and colonies of ante, half veiled with masses 
‘of vines and shrouded by the leafuge of a multitude of 
baby saplings, lengthy briars and calamus in many fathom 
lengths, and every mile or so there should be mudd 
streams, stagnant creeks, and shallow Beals, green with 
duckweed, leaves of lotus and lilies, and a greasy green 
scum composed of millions of finite growths” "Then 
people this vast region of woods with numberless frag- 
ments of tribes, who are at war with each other and 
who live apart from ten to fifty miles in the midst of 
prostrate forest, amongst whose ruins they have planted 
the plantain, banana, manioc, beans, tobacco, colocassia, 
gourds, melons, &e., and who, in order to make their 
villages inaccessible, have resorted to every means of 
defence sugyested to wild men by the nature of their 
lives. They have planted skewers along their paths, 
and cunningly hidden them under an apparently stray 


Ei 





THE VARIOUS KINDS OF FOREST. 7” 


leaf, or on the lee side of a log, by atriding over whieh 
the m foot ix pierced, and the intruder is either 
bt Aap ratipaahredge bled ya 
skewers, or lamed for months. bed have piled oe 
branches, and have formed abavtis of great trees, ane 
they lie in wait behind with sheaves of ied wrrowa,, 
wooden speurs hardened in fire, and smeared with 


ison. 
Phe primeval forest, that is that old growrh un- 
touched by man, and left since the earliest time to 
thrive die, one age after another, is ensily distin 
suishable from that part which at some time of another 
afforded shelter for man. The trecs are taller and 
straighter, and of more colossal girth, Tp haa frequently 
glides presenting little differ for travel, the ine 
variable obstructions being the arum, phrynia, and 
amoma. ‘The ground is firmer and more compact, and 
the favourite camping ground for the pigmy nomads 
ave located in such places. When the plants and small 
bushes are cut down, we have an airy, sylvan, and cool 
temple, delightful for a dwelling. 

‘Then comes the forest which during a few generations 
has obliterated all evidences of former husbandry, A. 
few of the trees, cspecially of the soft-wooded kind, 
have grown to equal height with the ancient patriarchs, 
nt a8 soon as man abandoned the clearing, hosts of 
nameless trees, shrubs, and plants have riotously haavened 
to avail themselves of his absence, and the rice for air 
and light is continued for many years; consequently 
the undergrowth by the larger quantity of sunshine 
hecomes Inxuriant, and there are few places penetrable 
in it without infinite labour, Among these a variety of 
palms will be found, especially the Elais and Raphia 
ree after thi he bush thi rh of 

iia comes the bush proper, the growth of 
« few years, which admita no ingress whatever within 
its shade. We are therefore obliged to tunel through: 
stifling masses of young vegetation, so matted and 
tangled together that one fancies it would he ensier to 
travel over the top were it of equal and consistent 





ro 
‘Dee. 


Povest, 


irk 


80 IN DARKEST APRICA. 


thickness and level. Vigorous young trees are found 
imbedded in these solid and compact masses of vegeta- 
tion, and these anpport the climbing plants, the vines, 
and creepers. Under these, after u pathway has been 

out, the unshod feet are in danger from the 


* thorns, and the sharp cut stalks, whieh are apt to pierce 


the feet and lacerate the legs. 

This last was the character of the bush mostly near 
the river. Both banks presented numberless old 
clearings and abandoned sites; and as the stream was 
the only means of communication employed by the 
tribes, the only way of effecting any progress was by 
luborious cutting. 

The clearings which had been abandoned within a 
year exhibited veritable wonders of vegetable life, af 
unsurpassed fecundity, aud bewildering variety of 
species. The charred poles of the huts became the 
supports of climbers whose vivid green leaves soon 
shronded the ugliness of desolation, and every upright 
and stump assumed the appearance of a miniature 
bower, or a massive piece of columned ruin. As 
the stumps were frequently twenty feet high, and 
were often seen in twins, the plants had gravitated 
across the space between, and after embracing had 
continued their growth along the length of one another, 
and had formed in this manner an umbrageous arch, 
and had twisted themselves in endless lengths around 
the supports until it became difficult to find what 
supported such masses of delicate vines, In some 
instances they had formed lofty twin towers with an 
arched gateway between, resembling a great ruin of an 
old castle, and the whole was gay with purple and white 
flowers. The silvered boles of ancient primeval giants 
long ago ringed by the axe and doomed to canker and 
decay, and the great gaunt far-spreading arms and 
branchlets had been clothed by vines « hundred-fold 
until they seemed like clouds of vivid green, which, 
under ‘the influence of «ndden gusts, streamed with 
countless tendrils, or swayed like immense curtains. 

When marching slong with the column, or encamped 








MUSINGS IN THE FOREST. 


81 
for the night, the murmur of voices was not con- 
genial to nourishin, hing any fine sentiments about the 

We suffered too much hunger, and sustained 
such protracted misery ; we were preyed upon too often 


in patience, and temper, and forbearance. Our 
suited well enough for open country, were no ion 
inst the hostilities of the But if once we 


absented ourselves from camp, and the voices of the 
men died away, and we fo: our miseries, and were 
not absorbed by the sense of the many inconveniences, an 
awe of the forest rushed upon the soul and filled the mind. 
‘The voice sounded with rolling echoes, as in « cathedral. 
One became conscious of its eerie strangeness, the absence 
‘of sunshine, its subdued light, and marvelled at the 
queer fecling of loneliness, while inquiringly looking 
around to be assured that this loneliness was no deln- 
sion, Tt was as if one stood amid the inhabitants of 
another world. We enjoyed life—the one vegetable, 
the other human. Standing there so massive and 
colossa), so silent and still, and yet with such solemn 
severity of majesty, it did seem curious that the two 
lives, 60 like in some sense, were yet so incommunicable. 
Tt would have suited the fitness of things, I thought, 
had « wrinkled old patriarch addressed me with the 
‘ity and seriousness of a Methuselah, or an Achil- 
ean and powerful bombax, with his buttressed feet 
planted firm in the ground, had disdainfully demanded 
my business in that awsembly of stately forest kings. 
Bur what thoughts were kindled as we peeped out 
from an opening in the woods and looked across the 





Ont of their depths ismes the thunderbolt, 
und the march of the winds ix heard coming to the 
satis ‘Suddenly the trees, which have stood still—as 

n 6 


_—_ 


Ly 









IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


2 
in a painted canvas—awaiting the shock with secure 
 areseen to bow their tops in unisan, followed 


i 


in furious waves forward, and the glory of the war 
Detween the forest und the storm is at its height. 
Legion after legion of clouds ride over the wind-tost 
crests, there is a crashing and roaring, a loud soughing 
and moaning, shrill screaming of squalls, and groaning 
of countless woods, ‘There are mighty sweeps from the 
great tree-kings, as though mighty strokes were being 
dealt; there is a world-wide rustling of foliage, us 
though in gleeful approval of the vast strength of their 
sires ; there are flashes of pale green light, as the lesser 
battalions are roused up to the fight by the example of 
their brave ancients. Our own spirits are aroused by 
the grand conflict—the Berserker rage is contagious. 
- In our souls we applaud the rush and levelling force of 
the wind, and for a second are ready to hail the vietor; 
but the magnificent array of the forest champions, with 
streaming locks, the firmness with which the vast army 
of trees rise in unison with their leaders, the rapturous 
quiver of the bush below inspire a belief that they will 
win if they but persevere. The lightning darts here 
an with splendour of light and seathing flame, 
the thunders explode with deafening crashes, reverbe- 
rating with terrible sounds among the army of woods, 
the black clouds roll over and darken the prospect ; 
and a4 cloud becomes involved within cloud, in the 
shifting pule light, we have n last view of the wild war, 
we are stunned by the fury of the tempest, and the 
royal rage of the forest, when down comes the deluge of 
ic rain—which in a short time extinguishes the 
white heat wrath of the elements, and soothes to stillness 
the noble anger of the woods. 
‘Along the banks of the Aruwimi, a better idea of 


> 





ABANDONED CLEARINGS. 


83 

fiend ion may be obtained than in of 
‘Afton, onttide of the enstora halt of the Congo’ bean 
The banks are for the most part low, 10 one 
could gueas what height they were, because of the lofty 
hedges of creeping plants, which cover every inch of 
ground from the water's edge to aa Sigh as fifty foot 


ordinate density of vogetation, gorgrone lowering 
sections, Above there will probably rise 
with masses of thick, shining leaves, and a profusion of 
blood-red flowers, whose petals have been showered on 
the impervious mass of leguminous vines of cree 
and shrubs below, and strongly contrast to their own 
light purple, yellow, or white flowereta. The amomm 
show snowy Howergoblets, edged with pink; a wild 
vine will have its light purple; a mn, with pinnate 
leaves, though flowerless ut the time, have its foliage 
tinted auburn; a pepper bush with ite red pods, or a 
wild mango, attracts attention by myriads of bead-like 
flowerets ; or an acacia effuses overpowering fragrance 
from its snowy buds, or a mimosa with its sweet- 
smelling yellow blossoms. Different shades of green are 
presented by ferns, protruding leaves of sword grass, 
4 young Elaw palm, or the broad and useful leaf of the 
iryniam. A young fig-tree, with silver stem, and 
Reductions widely, mixes ita leavea with those of the 
tender leaflets of the sensitive plant and the palmate 
; helow is a multitude of nettles, and nettle- 
Jenfed plants with stalks and leaves, making « mass of 
vegetation at once curious and delightful, Perhaps the 
base of all this intricate and inextricable confusion of 
plants and impervious hill of verdure and beauty, is 
® prostrate tree, long ago fallen, fast decaying, black 


a 





files a de 
sale ilgadiai 


nea ce in 


ay alt 


Faigamgie tt ata an it 




















THE FOREST TYPICAL OF HUMAN LIB 85 
Plo ee rape ee eee 
eephant-eared plant—films of 


Laas ing 
wad twisting Jianes, and serpent-like convolvuli, 
winding in and out by ees leries of dark shadows, 
ae Seine e to lean their weight 

, run at one place, forming loops ut 
cies pls, ern "stretching loosely their inter- 
minuble lengths out of sight. 

As I have alread, |, the forest is ke of 
tak 


ae London Bridge between half- seven and. 
f-) ral oepeebee where I saw the overworked, 

feasted) stopalcaldered, on their way to their dismal 

for existence. They were represented here 

ly, in all their youth, chats and decrepitude ; 

Eunerurly aeliaat lanched, another is 
itrous, another is aie weak, another is a 

Boshi another suffers from poor nutrition, many 

pullid from want of air and sunshine, many are 


op ants their neighbours because of constitutional 
int Nerd alas pss ling one over another, 
as though they the incurables of a hospital, and 


Sou, woe iw the exist ut all. Some are already 
hater ihe heaps of leaves, or are 

uurseries of Wh families and parasites, or are colonised 
mais of destructive insects; some are bleached 

te hy the pulsying thunderbolt, or shivered by the 
levin brand, ah ‘or quite decapitated ; or some old veteran, 
ceaturica old, which wos bor. before ever « Christian 
sailed south of the Equator, is decaying in core and 
vitals; but the majority have the assurance of insolent 
‘youth, with all its grace and elegance of form, the 


—_— 


IN, DARKEST AFRICA. 


strength of prime life, and the tranquil and 
of old aristocrats ; and you gather 
resolved to struggle for existence as long as 
- We see all characters of humanity ae 
martyr und suicide. For sucrifice is not 
within tree nature, and it may be that they only heard 
two edo “ Obedience is better than sacrifice,” and 
“ Live and multiply.” 

‘And as there is nothing so ugly and distasteful to me 
as the mob of a Derby day, so there is nothing so ugly 
in forest nature as when I am reminded of it by the 
visible selfish rush towards the sky in w clearing, after 
it has been abandoned a few years. Hark! the bell 
strikes, the race is about to begin. [seem to hear the 
uproar of the rush, the fierce, heartless jostling and 
Seeating the ery, “Self for self. the devil take the 
weakest!” To see the white-hot excitement, the noisy 
fume and flutter, the curious inequalities of vigour, and 
the shamoloss disrogard for order and deceney | 

Tt ix worth pausing also to ask why small incidents 
in such an out of the way fee as the trackless depths 
of a primeval forest should remind one of thoughts of 
friends and their homes in England. The melancholy 
sound of the wind flutrering the leafy world aloft, and 
the sad rustle of the foliage reminded me vividly of « 
night spent at —— House, where I pussed half the 
time listening to the dreadful sighing of the rooky 
Bibl which filled my mind with forlornness and 

liscomfort. Here again, as I lay in my tenn, were 
iggetted memories of ocean gales, and general cold, 
pitiful 





1 wretchedness, and when the min fell in an 
earnest shower and the heavy fall of raindrops roused 
the deep and funereal dirge ‘hat sounded round about 
me, it seemed to me T heard sad and doleful echoes of 
aud ond unsatisfied longings, and crowds of unworded 
thoughts, and past aspirations, unbreathed sentiments of 
love, friendship, and unuttered sympathies advancing 
with awful distinctness to the sharpened imagination, 
until one seemed ready to dissolve in tears and gasp 


- = 





SECRETS OF THE WOODS. ST 


sobbingly, “Oh, my friends, the good God is above all, 1858 
anid knows all things!" wea 
‘These are a few secrets of the woods that one learns 
in time, even without a mentor in forestry. To know 
that the Elais palm while requiring moisture requires 
of sunshine to flourish, that ee palo 
i best by the sedge-lined swamp stenchful 
sewery ooze, that the Calamus palm requires a thick 
hush for its support, thut the Phamix spinosa thrives 
best by the waterside, and that the Fan palm is killed 
by excessive moisture, is not difficult to learn, But for 
a stranger in tropie woods, accustomed to oak, beech, 
perler, and pine, he is somewhat mazed at the un- 
ilinr leafage nhove him. By-and-by, however, he 
can tell ata glance which are the soft and hard woods, 
‘There are several families of soft woods, which stand in 
of the pine and fir in the tropics, and these have 
Pier lurge leaves. It seems to bea rule that the 
a ie shall have large leaves, and the hurd woods 
shall have smaller leaves, though they i 
Tatieledayrea/of oraugen ant amblity”, Tas nas 
of the Rubmcew order, for instance, have leaves almost 
similar in form and size to the eastor-oil plant. The 
wood is most useful and workable, fit to build fleets of 
wooden vessels, or to he turned into beautiful domestic 
utensila—trays, benches, stools, troughs, wooden milk- 
peepee, mugs, spoons, drums, &e. Tt serves for 
ing, ceiling, doors, fences, and palisades. Though 
it is brittle as cedar it will stand any amount of weather 
without splitting. ‘There are more than one species of 
what is known as cotton-wood. but you may know them 
all by the magnificent buttresses, and their unsurpassed 
height, by the silver grey of their bark, and by the stiff 
thorns on their stems, by the white floss of their 
flowering and grey-green leaves, 
os is ores African uae aa oe 
mal » the green-heart, the lignum 
‘ala the everlasting sewed the no less hard srallse 
the riverside, infinitely harder than an oak ; 
the sti |, the ebony, the copal-wood tree with its 


—— FT 











he 


Forest. 


88 IN DABKEST AFRICA, 


glossy and burnished foli the arborescent wild 
mango, the small-leaved wild orange, the silver-boled 
wild fig, the butter tree, the neacia tribes, the stately 

, and the thousands of wild frnit-trees, most of 
which are unknown to me. Therefore, to understand 
what this truly tropical forest is like you must imagine 
all these confusedly mixed together, and lashed together 
by millions of vines, creepers, and giant convolvuli, 
until a perfect tangle has been formed, and sunshine 
quite shut out, except a little flickering dust of light 
here and there to tell you that the sun is out in the Fe 
like a burning lustrous orb, 

Considering how many months we were in the forest, 
the hundreds of miles we travelled through and through 
it, it is not the least wonder that an uccident never 
befell one of the Expedition from the beginning to the 
‘ond of our life in it, from the fall of a branch or a tree, 
eee ee ee ee the 4 ae 
directly @ rear guard passed ; they have 
Reciiesly creahedto the earthen ode flanks, ard noke 
the camps, by night as well ns by day. The nearest 
escape we had was soon after we had Janded from our 
‘boat one day, when a great ruin dropped into the river 
close to the stern, raising the bout up high with the 
mound of water raised hy it, and spraying the crew 
who were at work, 

Many people have already questioned me respecting 
the game in the forest. Elephant, buffalo, wild pig, 
bush+antelopes, coneys, gazelles, chimpanzees, baboons, 
monkeys of all kinds, squirrels, civets, wild cats, genets, 
zebra—ichneumous, large rodents, are among the few 
we know to exist within the woods, The branches 
swarm with birds and bats, the air is alive with their 
‘sailing und soaring forms, the river teems with fish and 
bivalves, oysters and clams ; there are few crocodiles and 
hippopotami also. But we must remember that all the 
frites of the forest are naturally the most vicious and 
degraded of the human race on the face of the earth, 
though in my opinion they are quite as capable of 
improvement as the wild Caledonian, and susceptible of 


—— 


GAME IN THE FOREST. oO 


transformation into orderly and law-abiding peoples. wea 
ISAT LEWeTie deer oN anente oer an 
course, Strangers cannot see one another until they 
suddenly encounter, and are mutually paralysed wi 
surprise at the fact, Instinctively they raise their 


‘bone is instantly smashed, Supposing that one at least 
of the parties is so amiable as to allow the other to kill 
him ; his friends would dub him a fool, and nothing has 
been gained. The dead man's friends must feel called 
upon to avenge him, and will hunt the murderer too. 
realy, w vane peoples pontctne Jearn news 
of any strangers, isappear generally in time before 
Gaevle nesrashel But how far they have 
retreated, or how near they may be, is unknown ; con~ 
mnently as they are in the habit of eating what they 

‘ill it would not be aafe for a amall hunting party to 
set out to search for game. That is one reason why 

were no animals hunted. 

Secondly, it is not every person who has the gift of 
finding his way ina forest. reat glee ‘smareh, 
Thad to correct the course of the van, Even such a grand 
landmark as a river was not sufficient to serve as a guide 
to the course, Within 200 yards any man in the Expedi« 
tion, if he were turned about a little, would be bewildered 
to find his way back to the place whence he started, 

‘irdly, « small party would make too much noise in 
breaking of Pike treading upon crisp leaves, in 
brushing against bush, or in cutting a vine or n cree} 
to make headway, A'wild nila period long Deere 
the hunters know that it is near them, and bounds 
away to distant coverts. We have suddenly come 
ueross elephants, but when they were within ten yards 
‘of us they have crashed their way through a jungle that 
was impervious to pursuers, As for buffalo and other 
pane, their tracks were very common, but it would 

ve been madness to have pursued them for the above 
three reasons alone. 


ee | 





oe 
Foret. 


IN DARKEST AFRICA, 


Fourthly, we had too serious an object in view, which 
was to discover food and where we were most likely to 
‘get it—not for a small party, but for all. 

As for birds, they made clatter enough overhead, but 
‘wo wore in the basemont, and they were on the roof of 
a fifteen-storey house. They could not be seen at all, 
though their whistlings, ‘warblings, screamings, aud 
hooting: were heard everywhere. ere were tS, 
ibis, touracos, parraquets, sunbirds, swifts, finches, 

‘kes, whip-poor-wills, hoopoes, owls, guinea fowl, 

, weavers, kingfishers, divers, fish eagles, kites, 
ay hee-caters, pipits, sandpipers, cockatoos, horn- 
bills, jays, barbets, woodpeckers, pigeons, and unknown 
minute tribes, and millions of large and small bats, 

The Simian tribé was well represented. I have 
caught sight of more than n dozen specie. I have 
seon the colobus, dark and grey furred baboons, small 
black monkeys, galagos and Aying squirrels, and others, 
but not nearer than a hundred yards. Long before we 
could reach them they had been alarmed by the murmur 
of the caravan, and commenced the retreat, 

Wo came across a number of reptiles. Tho Ituri 
swarms with water snakes of various lengths, They 
continued to drop frequently very close to our 
boat, slender green whip-snakes, other lead colour 
of formidable size; others green, gold and black, 
six feet long. We saw pythons, pull’ adders, horned 
and fanged snakes, while small bush snakes about. two 
feet long often fell vietima during the preparation of 








Tides val require a whole book, Never have I 
geen such countless armies and species as during my 
various marches through this forest. I should consider 
it infra dig. to refer to those minute creatures after the 
lavish abuses I, in common with others of the Expedi- 
tion, have bestowed on them, I recollect but few hours 
of daylight that I did not express myself unkindly to- 
wards het Those bees, large and ‘amall, the wasps, 
the hordes of moths by night, the house-tlies, tsetse, 
guuilies, gnats, and butterflies by day, the giant beetles, 


a 





REPTILES AND INSECTS. aL 
attracted by the light in the tent, sailing tl the — 1a8a, 
pepe ay Sting franti ke pees hee, 
rebounding in their rage from side to side, and all the 
time hoarsely booming, finally with roars of dash- 
ing themselves aguinst my book or face, as they 
would wreak vengeance on me for some reason; then 
the swarms of ants peering into my plate, intruding into 
amy washy tie crawling over my bananas, the crickets 
that sprang like demons, and fixed themselves in my 
alps se: on my ier the shrill cicuds = drove 
one worse c inspired Manyuema 
women. ‘The Pasha ries filo these tribes, and 
T confess T have done as much mischief to them as 


posible, 

‘The small bees of the size of gnats were the most 
tormenting of all the species; we hecame acquainted 
with four, They are of the Mellipona. To |, write, 
‘or eat required the devoted services of an attendant to 
drive them away. The eyes were their favourite points 
of attack; but the ears and nostrils also were sensitive 
pubes to Meron ey ee ay donkeys! 

were striy re of hair, use of these pests, 
The Hoth of one left an odour of bitter almonds on the 

The beetles, again, varied from the size of a monstrous 
two-and-a-half inches in length to an insect that would 
have bored through the eye of a tailor’s needle. This 
Jast when exnmined through a rnagnifying glans seemed 
to be efficiently equipped for troubling humanity. It 
burrowed into the skin, It conld not be discovered by 
the eyes unless attention was directed by giving a cross 
rub with the hand, when a pain like the prick of a. pin 
was felt. The natives’ huts were infested with three 

suliar species. One burrowed into one’s body, another 
Bored into the rafters and dropped fine sawdust into the 
another explored among the crisp leaves of the roof 
gave one a Pies fear that there were snakes 
about; a fourth, which was a roaring lion of a beetle, 
until night and then made it impossible to keep 

a candle lit for a quiet pipe and meditation, 


= al 





1888, 
Dee, 
Pores. 


2 AN DARKBST AFRICA. 


Among the minor unpleasanwesses which we had to 
we may mention the jigwer,” which deposited 
its eggs under the toenails of the most active men, but 
which attacked the body of a “ goce-goee” and made 
him a mass of living corruption ; the Tittle beetle that 
dived underneath the skin and pricked one as with a 
needle; the mellipona bee, that: troubled the eyes, and 
made one almost frantic some days; the small and 
large ticks that insidiously sucked one’s small store of 
blood; the waaps, which stung one into a raging fever 
if some idiot touched the tree, or shouted near 
their haunts; the wild -hees, ‘which one day 
senttered two canoe erews, and punished them so that 
we had to send « detachment of men to rescue them ; 
the tiger-slag, that dropped from the branches and left 
his poisonous far in the pores of the body until one 
tuved from the pain; the red ants, that invaded the 
camp by night and disturbed our sleep, and attacked 
the caravan half a score of times on the march, and 
the men run faster than if pursued by so many 
pigmies; the black ants, which infested the trumpet 
tree, and dropped on us when ing underneath, and 
we us all a foretaste of the Inferno; the small ants 
that invaded every particle of food, which required 
great care lest we might swallow half a dozen inad- 
vertently, and have the stomach membranes perforated 
or blistered—small as they were, they were the moat 
troublesome, for in every tannel made through the 
bush thousands of them housed themselves upon us, and 
so bit and stung us that I have seen the pioneers 
covered with blisters as from nettles; and, of course, 
were our old friends the mosquitos in numbers 

in the greater clearings. 

But if we were bitten and stung by pismires and 
numberless tribes of insects by day, which every one 
will confess is as bad ae being whipped with nettles, 
the night had also its alarms, terrors, and anxieties. 
Jn the dead of night, when the entire caravan was 
wrapped in slumber, a series of explosions would wake 
every one, Some tree or another waa nightly atrack 





4 fo 


FALL OF DECAYED TREES. 


as 
Hightni and there was a danger that half the 
xe B ive tt iy the fall of one; the sound 


Each ios ma almost a dead tree fell with fia 3 crackle, 
vending and rushing, ending with the sound which 
ee the earth. 

‘There were trees parting with a decayed member, and 
the fall of it made the t echo with its crash _ 
though rel eh brie hn The night 
pits swayed the branches and hurled them Le t 
each other, amid a chorus of creaking stems, and swi 
ing cables and rustle of leaves. ng there was tl 
never-failing erick of the cricket, and the shriller but 
not less monotonous pining eall of the cicadw, and the 
perpetual chorus of frogs ; there was the doleful ery of 
the lemur to his mate, « harsh, rasping ery which made 
night hideous, and loneliness and darkness repulsive, 
‘There was a chimpanzee at solitary exercise ae 
himself with striking upon a tree like the little bo 

rattle a stick aguinst the aren railings. i 
were the midnight. troops of elephants, wha no doubt 
Wide Sent mevented from marching right over us by the 

 seattered about the camp. 

Coen the number of sokos or chimpanzees in 
this great forest, it is rather a curious fact that not one 
of the Expedition saw one alive, My terrier “ Randy" 
hunted them almost every day between Ipoto and 
ee and one time was severely handled. T have 

notes four several times, and have possessed 
a eae of their skulls, one of which I gave to the 
Pasha; the other, that 1 was obliged to leave at the 


time, was monstrously large, 
atk 1887 pas fell ding eight days in daly. fe days 
Angst, fourteen days _ if eptember t, fifteen days in 


sber, seventeen days in November, and seven days 
ber, = seventy-one days. From the Ist of 
Jak 1887, to the 31st of May. 1 1888, there were 138 


a 


1988, 


ena 


OL IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


days, or 569 hours of rain. We could not measure the 
Tain in the forest in any other way than by time. We 
shall not be far wrong if we estimate this forest to be 
the rainiest zone on the earth. 

For nine months of the year the winds blow from the 
South Atlantic along the course of the Congo, and up 
the Aruwimi. They bear the moisture of the sea, and 
the vapours exhaled by a course of 1400 miles of a river 
which spreads from half-a-mile to sixteen miles wide, 
and meeting on their easterly course the cold atmosphere 
prevailing at the high altitude they descend upon the 
forest almost every alternate day in copious showers of 
rain. This forest is also favourably situated to receive 
the vapours exhaled by Lakes Tanganike, the Albert 
Edward, and Albert Lakes. While standing in the 
plain on the verge of the forest, I have seen the two 
rain clouds, one from the westward and one from the 
eastward, collide and dissolve in a deluge of rain on 
Pisgah Mount and the surrounding country. Besides 
the rains, which lasted ten or twelve hours at a time 
during our march from Yambuya to Fort Bodo, we had 
frequent local showers of short duration. When these 
latter fell we were sure that some lofty hill was in the 
neighbourhood, which had intercepted a portion of the 
vapour drifting easterly, and liquified it for the benefit 
of the neighbourhood. The rear-guard of the caravan 
was sometimes plunged in misery by a heavy rainfall 
while the pioneers were enjoying the effects of sunshine 
above their heads. It occurred at Mabengu Rapids, 
and at Engweddé. Being in the depths of the forest 
we could not see any sign of a hill, but such sudden 
showers betrayed the presence of one in the vicinity. 
When well away from these localities we would some- 
times look behind down a straight stretch of river, and 
hilly masses 500 feet above the river were revealed 
to us. 

The Ituri or Upper Aruwimi is therefore seldom very 
low. We have seen it in July about six feet below high- 
water mark. In October one night it rose a foot ; it is 
highest in November, and lowest in December. But it 











A PAGE FROM MR. STANLEY'S NOTEBOOK 


Baptywa. us. 
yi S390 
“er 


Metgausborsi t ersabs beans many neues. 127Hs cere, Nlussime 
hag ailer - Mi subyiely are cutted Bundissuma. 
Fiat Ab Vecenacted Dak yor om lg Like prac os DAE 
Dtinaate 4 Aattywa hy Crnsp Qrsen 2550 frat. wtuskhshore 
1980 pect pease 
ps), 















TRIBES AND THEIR LANGUAGES. 


immense volume of water into oe 
course st “ft ees 700 miles, risin, 

Cy a known as the ‘on, Group, and 
call Speke, Schweinfurth, and Junker. Its 
basin ote an aren of 67,000 square miles. 

On the north side of the busin we have heard of the 
Ababua, Mabodé, Momva, and the Balesaé, to the south 
are the Bakumu and Baburu, These are the eee 
tribes, which are subdivided into Hiendeedasct 
tribes. ‘The language of the Bakumu which is to be 
found inland east of Stanley Falls, is known as far as 
aoe Falla, with slight dialectic variations among the 

buru. The aie of Momyu is between 
Pon Fulls and qaiyu. East of that we found 
Suite ataitabdayel cttee Dulomé sock us wn teeta 
eae beyond that was a separate and distinet 
language spoken by the Babusessé “But we found sub- 
tribes in each section who professed not to understand 
what was said to them from natives two camps remayed 
from them, 

All the tribes from the Atlantic Ocean to Est: 
Longitude 30° in the Equatorial region have « distant 
resemblance of features and customs, but 1 should 
East Longitude 18° as the divisional line of longitude 
between two families of one original parent race, 
Acroas twelve degrees of longitude, we dave hundreds 
of tribes bearing a most fee tae to one 
another. What Schweinfurth nd. Jun Toe Emin and 
Casati, have said about the Monbuttu, Niam Niam, and 
Momva, may with a few fine shades of difference, be vid 
about the ia, the Wyyanzi, the Batomba, the 
aes, the Baburu, the Bakumu, and Balessé. One 
tribe more compact in nisation may possess a few 

ea cero can which bee safer 
fortunes, and been oppressed by more powerful neigh- 
bours, but in the main I see no difference whatever. 
They own no cattle, but possess sheep, goats, and 
domestic fowls. One tribe may be more partial to 
aac but they all cultivate the plantain an feces 


is a stream that constantly fluctuates, ea 





a 


98. IN DARKEST AFRICA, 


Their dresses all alike are of bark cloth, their head- 
dresses are nearly similar, though one tribe may be more 


Hret claborate in the mode of dressing theirs than another, 


Some of them practise circumcision, and they are addicted 
to eating the of their enemies, Their weapons are 
nearly the same—the broad razor-sharp spear, the 
double-edged and pointed knife, the curious two- or 
four-bladed knives, their curved swords; their small 
bows and short arrows; their stools, benches, and back- 
reste ; their eur-rings, bracelets, armlets and leslets ; their 

it war-drums wnd little tom-toms, their war-horns ; 
their blacksmiths’ and carpenters’ tools. 

To the architecture of their houses there is a great 
difference ; in the tatvooing, facial marke, and their upper 
lip ornaments they also differ; but these are often due 
to the desire to distinguish tribes, though they do not 
show a difference of race. If one ld travel in a 
steamer from Equatorville on the Congo to Indesura on 
the Upper Tturi, and see the various communities on the 
river banks from the deck, the passengers would be 
struck, not only by the similarity of dress and equip- 
ments, but also of complexion ; whereas were a colony of 
Soudanese, Zanzibaris, Wanyamwezi to be seen acciden- 
tally nmong those communities, the stranger might 

ily distinguish them as heing foreign to the sail. 

This region, which embraces twelve degrees of longi- 
tude, is mainly forest, though to the west it hus several 
reaches of gras4-land, and this fact modifies the com- 
plexion considerably. The inhubitants of the true forest, 
‘are much lighter in colour than those of the grass-land. 
‘They are inclined normally to be eoppery, while some 
are as light as Arabs, and others are Ant brown, but 
they are all purely negroid in character. Probably this 
lightness of colour may be due to a long residence 

rough generations in the forest shades, though it ix 
likely to have been the result of an amalgamation of an 
originally black and light coloured race. When wo 
cross the limite of the forest and enter the grass-land 
we ab once remark, however, that the tribes ure much 
darker in colour. 





FEATURES AND CUSTOMS, 99 


Among these forest tribes we have observed some 188, 
singularly prepossessing faces, and we have 
observed others uncommonly low and de- ""* 
graded, However incorrigibly fierce 
temper, detestable in their disposition, and. 








sro 


meaerAMLa, 


root. 


bestial in habits these wild tribes may be 
to-day, there is not one of them which 
does not contain germa, and by whose 
means at some future date civilisation may 
‘spread, and with it those manifold blessings inseparable 


IN DARKEST APRICA, 


Twas much strack with the 
replies of some captives of le, 
they knew the language of Momvu, I was able 





‘or one is beaten.” 
if I wend you buck to your village?” They looked 
ineredulous, and when they were actually escorted out 
of the camp with cowries in their hands, they simpl 

stood still and refused to go fearing some trap. It 
seemed incredible to them that they should not be 
sacrificed, One returned to my tent, and was greeted 
kindly as an old acquaintance, received a few bananas, 
deliberately went to a fire and rowsted them, weighing 
in his mind, I suppose, meanwhile, what it all meant: 
after refreshing himself, he lit his pipe, and walked 


away with an assumed composure, hree trips past 
that sevtlement, and their confidence would have been 
gained for ever. 


Seattered among the Bualessé, between Ipoto and 
Mount Pisgah, and inhabiting the land situated between 
the Ngaiyu and Ituri Rivera, a region equal in aren to 
about two-thirds of Scotland, are the Wambutti, variously 
called Batwa, Akka, and Bazungu. These poople are 
undersized nomads, dwarfs, or pigmies, who Fire ts the 
uncleared virgin forest, and support themselves on game, 
which they are very expert in catching. They vary in 
height from iy oa four feet six inches, A full- 
grown adult male may weigh ninety pounds, ‘They 
plant their village camps wt a distance of from two to 






THE FORESY PIG: 


three miles around a tribe of 

the majority of whom are fine st 
ing may have os many as 

separate communities of these Stee people: 

around them, 1 in the le agaregate fr from m 2.000; 

2,500 souls. With their weapons, li 

arrows, the points of which are ste ate with 

and heel ote kill elephants, Mee ‘nai 


Ses ‘its, and eumnin, 
with light. atic er leaves, over ae er a eis: tei 
earth to Ee dinniioa 


the unsuspecti 
Sage Pace hee” Thar told haere tee 
the roof being s ded it a vine, and spread nuts or 
vipe plantains underneath, to tempt the chimpanzees, 


EFA 


“ANHOWH OF THE WAKER 


Dahoons, and other simians within, and by a alight 
movement, the shed falls, and the animals are captured, 
Along the tracks of civets, mephitis, Hinge a and 
rodents are bow traps fixed, which, in the scurry of the 
little animals, are snapped and strangle them, “Besides 
the meat and hides to make shields, and furs, and i 
of the oe Tea they catch birds to ebtain their 
feathers; lect honey from the woods, aud make 
Pl ai fle thy mi he ge ines for 
pista, potatoes, tobacco, spears, knives, and arrows. 
forest would soon be denuded of game if the 
pigmies confined themselves to the few square miles 
ee clearing ; they are therefore compelled to move, 
us s00n as it becomes scarce, to other settlements, 
‘They perform other services to the agricultural and 


ai aa 







1888 
Dees 


Forest. 











DARKEST AVRICA, 






larger class of abori- 
gines, Thoy are 
perfect scouts, and 
contrive, by their 
better knowledge of 
the intricacies of the 
forest, to obtain 
early intelligence of 
the coming of stran- 
gers, und to send 
information to their 
settled friends. They 
ure thus like volun- 
tary piequets guard- 
4 the clearings and 
settlements, Every 
road from any direc- 
tion runs through 
their camps. ‘Their 
villages command 
every cross - way 
Aguinst any strang: 
natives, disposed to 
be: aggressive, they 
would combine with 
their taller neigh- 
bonrs, and they are 























HLEPUANT Tar; 


a 


DWELLINGS OF THE PIOMIES. 108 
byaomsane despicable allies. Whien arrows are arruyod 
Se ery ne rar 

ir greater malice, would make formidable opponents, 
int ia addled ULSiaR) tocwigily wktecstane 


—in a rough circle, the centre of which is left cleared for 
the residence of the chief and his family, and as a com- 
mon. About 100 yards in advance of the camp, wong 

pee esee tiie cet of it, is placed the sentry-house, 
pee arenerah two little men, with the doorway 
at up the track. Tf we assumed that native eara- 
‘yans ever travelled between Ipoto and Ibwiri, for in- 
stance, we should imagine, from our knowledge of these 
Peeeoamecrle, that the caravan would be mulcted of 
much of its property by these nomads, whom they would 


ing to the heavy turnpike tolls and octroi 


be demanded of them if they ventured 
to undertake long journey of eighty milea It will 


ive 


—_ 





‘104 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


also be seen why there is such a diversity of dialects, 
why captives were utterly ignorant of settlements only 


"twenty miles away from 
Ast 


have said, there are two species of these pigmies, 
utterly dissimilar in complexion, conformation of the 
head, and facial chatacteristies Whether Batwa forms 
one nation and Wambutti another we do not know, but 
they differ as much from each other as a Turk would 
from a Scandinavian. The Batwa have longish heads 
and long narrow faces, reddish, small eyes, set close to- 
gether, which give them a somewhat ferrety look, sour, 
anxious, and querulous The Wambutti have round 
faces, gazclle-like eyes, set far apart, open foreheads, which 
give one an impression of undiagnised frankness, and are 
of a rich yellow, ivory complexion. The Wambutti 
occupy the southern hulf of the district described, the 
Batwa the northern, and extend south-easterly to the 
Awamba forests on both banks of the Semliki River, and 
east of the Tturi, 
‘The life in their forest villages partakes of the character 
of the agricultural classes. ‘The women perform all the 
work of collecting fuel and provisions, aud cooking, and 
the transport of the goods of the community. The men 
hunt, and fight, and smoke, and conduct the tribal 
itics. ‘There is always some game in the camp, bo- 
sides furs and feathers and hides, They have nets for 
fish and traps for small game to make. The youngsters 
must always be practising with the bow and arrow, for 
we have never come across one of their villages without 
finding several miniature bows and blunt-headed arrows, 
‘There must be free use of axes also, for the trees about 
many « mark which could only have been done to 
try theiredge. In every camp we have seen deep in- 
isions in a tree several inches deep, and perhaps 500 
from the camp a series of diamond cuttings ina 
root of a tree across the track, which, when seen, in- 
formed us that we were appronching « village of the 
Wambutti pigmies. 
‘Two Egyptians, a corporal and a Cairo boy of fifteen, 
both light complexioned, were captured near Fort Bodo 








——— 


OVITIA avn ¥ 





THE POISON USED POR ARROWS. 107 


during my absence, and no one discovered what became 
of them eee ee like 

young Nassamonians of old. 1 have often wondered 
what was done to them, and what the feelings of both 
were—they were devout Mussulmans—after they were 
taken to the Wambutti’s camp, I fancy they must have 
‘Leen something similar to those of Robert Baker, a sailor, 


in .1562— 
“It oannibale thay bw 
Bat i tho be, thon enema 
‘Do pot stenightway we joe, 


wood: 
Amn heathen who can thrive, 
‘On this #0 wilde a food 2” 

One of the poisons employed by the tribes of the 
forest to smear their weapons, in order to make them 
more deadly, is a dark substance of the colour and con- 
sistency of pitch. Iv ix supposed—if native women may 
he trusted—to be made out of a species of arum, a very 
common plant, with large leaves, found in any quantity 
hetween Fort Bodo and Indesura, Its smell, when fresh, 
reminds one of the old blister plaster, That it nee te 
there can be no doubt. They kill the elephants 

big game with it, as certainly as these animals could 
be slain with bone-erushing rifles. ‘That they do kill 
elephants is proved by the vast stores of ivory collected 
by Ugarrowwa, Kilonga-Longa, and Tippu-Tib, and each 
adult warrior has a waist-belt, or a shoulder-helt, to sus 
pend his and skinning-knife, and every mother 
who carries her child and every wife who curries a buaket 
has need of broad forehead-straps, made out of buffalo 
hide, to bear her load on her back. 

The poison is nob permitted to be manufactured ina 
selige Te seems to be n necessity, to prevent fatal 

dents, that the poison should be prepared in the bush, 
It is then laid on the iron arrows thickly, and into the 
aplints of the hard wooden arrows, 


i 


iv 


108 IN DARKEST AFRICA, 


uss, Another poison is of a pale gluey colour. At Avisibba 

Saco we discovered several baskets of dried red ants among 
the rafters, and I conjectured, from their resemblance in 
colour to the deadly poison which the Avisibbas used, 
that it must have been made by crushing them into a 
fine powder, and mixing it with palm oil, If one of 
these insects can raise a blister on the skin of the size of 
a grout, what may not the powder of mummied insects 
of the same species effect? If this pale poison be of this 
material, one must confess that, in the forest, they possess 
endless supplies of other insects still worse, such as the 
Jong black uuts which infest the trumpet tree, a bite from 
‘one of which can only be compared to cautery from a red 
hot iron. But whatever it be, we have great faith in a 
strong hypodermic injection of carbonate of ammonium, 
and it may be that stronger doses of morphia than any 
that I ventured upon might suceced in conquering the 
fatal tetanic spss w ich followed every puncture and 
preceded death. 

When one of these poisons is fresh its consequences 
are rapid. There is excessive faintness, palpitation of 
the heurt, nausea, pallor, and beads of perspiration break 
out over the body, and death ensues, One man died 
within one minute from a mere pin-hole, which pierced 
the right arm and right breast, q headman died within 
‘an hour and a quarter after being shot, A woman died 
during the time that she was curried a distance of one 
hundred paces; another woman died within twenty 
minutes; one man died within three honra; two others 
died after one hundred hours had elapsed. These various 
Fees indicate that some poisons were fresh and others 

become dry. Most of these wounds were sucked and 
washed and syringed, hut evidently some of the poison 
was left, and caused death. 

To render the poison ineffective, astrong emetic should 
be given, sucking and syringing should ‘be resorted to, 
and 4 heavy solution of carbonate of ammonium should 
be injected into the wound, assuming that the native 
antidote was unknown. 

As there is no grass throughout the forest region, the 


THE WILD FRUITS. 


103 
natives would be put to hard shifts to cover their houses 
were it not for the invaluable pee leaves, which 
grow erates, but most abundantly in the primeval 
woods, pecleatt dere yaa RR 
in diameter, are attached to slender straight from 
three to seven feet high. Both stalks and leaves are 
useful in the construction of native huts and camps. 
The fruit is like red cherries, but the rinds are not 
eaten, though the kernels are often eaten to “ deceive 
the stomach.” 

The wild fruits of the forest are various, and having 
been sustained through so many days of awful famine, 
it would be well to describe such aus we found useful. 
We owe most to a fine stately tree with small leaves, 
which grows in large numbers along the south banks ot 
the Truri between East Long. 28°and 29°. Tta fruit lies 
in pods nbout ten inches long, and which contain four 
heart-shaped beans called “ makwemé,” an inch and a 
aa Jong by an inch broad and half an inch thick. 

t has a tough dove-coloured skin which when cut shows 
a reddish inner skin. When this Jatter ix scraped away 
the hean may be bruised, mashed, or boiled whole, It 
is better bruised, because, as the bean is rather leathery, 
it has a better chance of being cooked to be igestibic 
The pigmies tunght us the art, und it may be well con- 
ceived that they have had often need of it to support 
life during their forest wanderings, 

Tn the neighbourhood of these wood-bean trees grew 
a bastard bread-fruit called fenessi by the Zanzibaris, 
the fruit of which is us large as a water-melon, When 
ripe we found it delightful and wholesome, 

On a higher level, as we followed the Tturi up from 
1°6' to Lat. 1° 47', we found the spondia or hog-pluma, 
a yellow, fmgrunt fruit with a large stone. An 
india-rubber vine produced n pear-shaped fruit which, 
though of delicious odour, was the cause of much nansea 5 
a fruit also of the size of a crab-apple, with an insipid 
eweetness about it, assisted to maintain life Then 
there were xome nuts like horse-chestuuts which we 
found the pigmies partial to, hut we cannot speak very 


a8, 
Dee, 
Foret. 





itt 


no IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


highly of them, Besides the cherry-like berries of the 
phrynia, the kernels of which were industrionaly sought 
, were the rich red fruit of the amoma, within 
whose husks is found an acid sweet pulp, and the 
ins of paradise which were first introduced to 
land in the year 1815. The berries of the calamus, 
or rattan, were alse eaten, but they were difticult to get. 
Figs also were tried, but they were not very tempting, 
though anything to disguise hunger and to “ deceive 
the Phere " found favour, Even the cola nuts were 
eaten, but more for the sake of expectoration than for 
the sake of pandering to the digestive organs. 

Among other articles to which we were reduced were 
white ants, slugs—not the tiger-slug—snails, crabs, 
tortoises, roast field-rats, and the siluroids of the 
‘streains. 

‘The domestic animals of the natives were principally 
confined to a fine breed of goats, dogs—of the usual 

‘iah order, but vari-coloured. We saw only one 
Tomato. eat, aud that was a brindled animal, and very 
tame, but kept in a cage, 

It struck me ox curious that while nearly all the 
Madis were attacked with guinea worms, which rendered 
them utterly unfit for work, not one Zanzibari suffered 
from them. ‘The Madis' medicine for these was simply 
oil or fat rubbed over the inflammation, which served 
to cause the worm to withdraw from the leg. At one 
time, however, we had fifteen cases of mumps among 

Zanzibaris, but they used no medicine except 
rubbing the swollen face with flour and water. Numbers 

Manyuemu, natives, and Madis, unvaccinated and 
uninoculated, fell victims to yariola; but only four 
Zanzibaris were attacked with the disease, only one of 
which was fatal, and two of them were nob so much 
indiaposed as to plead being relieved from duties. 

Respecting the productions of the forest I have 
written at such length in “'The Congo and the Founding 
of ita Free State” that it is unnecessary to add am 
more here. TI will only say that when the Congo Rail- 
way has been pirate the products of the great 


PRUDUCTS OF THE FOREST. m1 


forest will not be the least valuable of the exports of the 1888, 


Congo Independent State. The natives, beginning at 
Yambuya, will easily he induced to collect the rubber, 
and when one sensible European has succeeded in teaching 
them what the countless vines, creepers, and tendrils of 
their forest can produce, it will not be long before other 
competitors will invade the silent river, and invoke the 
aid of other tribes to follow the example of the Baburu. 


Forest, 





aka 
Dec. 20, 


Fort Bodo, 


ns IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


CHAPTER XXIV. 
IMPRISONMENT OF EMIN PASHA AND MR. JEPSON, 


Our siception at Fort Bodo Lent Bal! neport of what took pings at 
‘the Fort during our relief of the roar colums—No news of Jey 
Muster af our men—We burn tho Fart and advance to find Kinin, 


‘hun mowsengen bring Totter from Emin and Jephson—Their 
contanteAy reps tothe sie handed to Chiat Mogo for delivery 


‘opnleed—Mr, Jophson turns’ np—We talk of Binin—-Jephson's 
~ report bearing dpon the nevol 


‘viows res ‘the invasion of the province by the Mahidists, an 
Ata sullen Pasha nods through Mr. eptoon an anawer tomy 
or. 


THosr who have read the pitiful tale of the rear 
column will no doubt be curious to know how we 
re-entered Fort Bodo, which was only garrisoned with 
fifty-nine rifles, after six months’ absence. With my 
heurt filled with joy and gratitude I was escorted 
“e the western avenue, glad men leaping around me 
like spaniels, the Doctor imparting the most cheery 
newa; prosperous fields of corn on either hand, and 
Roodly crops everywhere ; fenced squares, & neat village, 

streets, and every one T met—white and black— 
i t health, except a few incurables. Nelson wns 
quite recovered, the dark shadow of the starvation ie} 
was entirely gone, and the former martial tread ani 
manly bearing had been regained; and Stairs, the 
officer par excellence, was precisely what he ought to 
have been—the one who always obeyed and meant to 


itenant Stairs possessed 24,000 ears of corn in his 





et 


RE-ENTER FORT BODO. is 


» the plantation was still be: plantains and 
ras feta td boany, Chere wan 5 et cy 
tobacco ; the stream in the neighbourhood supplied fish 
—asiluroids—and between officers and men there existed 
the very best of feeling, He had not been free from 
trouble; troops of elephants had invaded the fort, 
native plunderers by night had robbed him of stores of 
tobucco, a mild benevolence had brought on the ita 
tion Toe of pigmies, but at eas ee gig firm- 
ness made him respected and feared by pigmies, 
aborigines, and Zanzibaris, and in & wise 64) jon 
LEAL comet ga 1 the 
sieioable and welcome letter herewith given speaks for 
itself— 

Fort Boro, Lbwiei, Conteal Africa, 


Dat Droraber, 1888, 
TI, M, Staxey, Tisa., 
Command of Emin Pasha Relief Expedition, 


T havo thy to report that, in uccordanco with your letter 
instruction date ors Dodo Sune Like 1888 ook ovens cares 


espa 
Ha 
by figs 
eRe g Hi 
at 
ne 
Hae 
aestera 
He 
ligt 
Hill 


iH 
ze 
it 
i 
?. 
le 
Bre 


i 
i 


find got the natives well in hand, and mt this 
ygle native camp exists within eight miler of 
to the 8.8.12. of the Fort gave us the most tronblo, 


i 
fr 
3 
He 
ef 


a 
i 
& 


or iy some geht oe a Beate Dene oe i 
‘rake 0 ploaty thery, wore quite ead 
Gest eden teiais te shiccer neu 
Vol. Th. 8 


18s, 
Dee. 20, 
Fort oslo, 


IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


‘things stood J treated the men at all times with the greatest ~ 
‘ddd whatover Teould {o unk their life at tho Fort as oony 


‘wore 
‘one of the Zan present. 

Heavy tho Fost, auras on Wo thn Lake Dy way of Mabon 

anaiog tipctle bis wuts po get oul the los to the Laken ead 

5 1d my fiftoon couriers with a letter to tho eelge of the 

there to Tearn if the Bandusuma wre stil our fiends or no; if 


Jj thon to return to the Fort; if triewlly, then the courlors 
e son, ni reli Would come, 
ee 


- Stanley told me not to move across tho plain, whatevor elso T 





Zl 
a 
: 
u 
ie 
j 


ere 
D 
5 
3 
= 

= 
' 
E 
H 
i 
i 
F 


iilaeh 
lene 
nate 
a "ee 
Ha 
He 
rer ae 

Hi 
tiie E 
Lai 


ity 
oe 
£ 

a7 
aie 
a5 = 
2 
He 
RES 
2 

5 

_g=! 
Ses 
z03 
: 

Bem 
ERE 


E 

le 

tl 
He 
il 
lt 
Ba 
eee 
at 
Ze 
eee 
S 


. tom 
, Parke, got one eup of abelied carn each por 
‘we ad over thiety mon suf 
‘Dr, Parke, all their nloers on your arrival 
‘Of some four. 
from tho time of your departura np to the 
December, two Werw Killed by werows, and two were captured iy 


‘Th all matters where deliberation wax necowary tho other offlovrs and 
anysolf took part. Wo ware unanimous in our determniaation to nwait 
arrival, a oe you wore using every cndenvour to being 


relief to ux as 5 as ponibie 
‘On handed over the charge of the Fort to you, 
are. 


: 
i 





Bat 
= 
it 


F 
3 


T have the honoor to be, Bir, 
‘Your obedient nervant, 
(Signed) W.G. States, Lieut. BE. 


We were now left to conjecture what had become of 
the energetic Jephson, the man of action, who had been 
nicknamed Buhurika, or the Cheetah, because he was 

mick and eager, and strui at the lewh. No 
small matter would have detained him, even if the 








NO NEWS OF JEPMSON- 5 


Pasha after all thought that a long journey to Fort 188, 
Jo was unnecensary. rein 
But the fact that neither hud been heard of placed ux "Ble 
inadilemma, We had fifty-five extra loads to carry, over 
and aboye the number of carriers, of ee end Pe! 
property. After a little midnight mental deliberation 
to muke double es between Fart Bodo 
and the Ituri River on the edge of the plains, leave 
Lieutenant Stairs and officers and sick at the well- 
furnished clearing of Kandekoré, sud march to the 
Nyanza to search for Emin Pasha and Mr. Mounteney 
Jephson. This would probably cause me to exceed my 
original estimate of time by ten days, But what can 
one do when every plan is thwarted hy some unlucky 
accident or another? Fort Bodo had been reached two 
days before the stipulated time. If I arrived at the 
Nyunza by January 26 1 should be ten days behind 
time. 


On the 21at of December all this was explained to 
the men, and that fifty-five men must volunteer to do 
double duty, but for every camp made ee them twice 
over I should pay for the extra work in cloth, Volun- 
teers Penaaiel readily at this, and the difficult 
the extra fifty-five loads of ammunition 


vi 
At the muster on the 22nd of December there were 
present in the Fort—209 Zanzibaris, 17 Soudanese, 
1 Somali, 151 Manyvema and followers, 26 Madis, 
2 Lados, 6 whites; total 412. Therefore the journey 
from Banalya to Fort Bodo had cost 106 fives, of 
hom 38 Falcone to the rear column, 
‘On the 23rd we set out from Fort Bodo, and on the 
Captain Nelson, having buried the Pasha's big 
come broken rifles, &e., set fire to the Fort 
and joined us. 
of Day and the day after we foraged for the 
double journeys, and on tho 27th Stairs was pushed for- 
ward with one hundred rifles to occupy the ferry at the 
Tturi River, with orders, after making himself snug, to 
end back ‘fifty-five men to our Cross Roads camp. 


a 














, 


Pe 
? 





fF 
a 
H | 





l 


i" 





a 


on 

of Pisgah, in view of the grassland, at whi 

of the rear column and the Manyuema were never 
ing and wondering. On the 9th we crossed 

turi River and established a camp in the village of 

Kandekoré on the cast side. 

The next day all hands were set to work to make a 
camp, to clear the bush around, for natives are accustomed 
to let it grow right up to the eaves of their huts to 
enable them to retreat unperceived in case of danger. 

i inuer Lieutenant Stairs and 


PELFPEIE 





sd . L have called you to give you a few parting words 
Got dtd an de Tan there ins cron umetlacnce at 
ines tempted we to despair. 


ec ——— — it 


PARTING WORDS TO STAIRS AND PARKE 117 


i] 





H 1 i R Bseeeyeatery 4g 
Bel ee His iil He LE ie Boneh i 
= Bi ee i Be rears Beans ie 
i Sedibes 42 Egseqasttecdysceze, “ea*iitectrs 225 
feclietnty cy AG da 
ea tth d GAUAusAnaE etiied 1 
ppaueai an 
sean Ui 
mbit yi Hale i i eit li 
i iP 3 F =, 1 ” E32 = 
ae eu a te Hi Papeeae i 


ate sarge BA if Hallas Hae matey Pty 


118 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


sep, Boforo T left England T received somo hundreds of applications from 
din To, yoluntonrs to servo with sno on thie Expedition. “They at inst bliovod 
| eden RBA Ue could Win wha se all “kudos! though I'do not 
Telleve that one in a thonsatud of thera lotow what ia the teuo Way to 
St tie aix sought mo the other it to request he! 
i of frical iw duty was 





akened ont of w dream when I told him that to cseurt 
efugom to. Uhr hone was w fur gobler tak than any oumber of 
ion ‘was a than Who received a salary 
himanif, he alle i rly to an ES 
® i er 
exp Setar la very cops, nad Bou ea tion eto cored op oe td 
ar, ad promotions poss ot 
: ou 
your thom vith a him arfpt do al 
You.can with wight and sain to make the most of thers. Don’t think of 
= ; 
ju perform ik Good-night. ‘Toe 
o do, something, I’ know not what, and do not ears until 
Thar what it is 1 have todo." As I will do mine, do yourn” 

‘The next morning, after encouraging remarks to the 
invalids, we set out from Kandekoré in the territory of 
the Bakuba, und in forty-five minutes we had emerged 
out of the bush, to the immense delight and wonder of 


a3 


On the 12th we reached Beasé, and were well received 
our native friends. They informed us that the 
ashn was building big houses at Nyamsassi, and the 
rumour was that ‘he and many followers intended to 
oss through the land. As we had been, very anxious 
is piece of good news wus huiled with great 
satisfaction, 

We camped the day following in a vale a little north 
of Mukangi, and on the 14th we reached our old camp 
in Mazamboni’s country. It was not long before 
Mazamboni, and Katto his brother, and his inseparable 
cousin Kalengé, appeared, and in’ reply to our eager 
eee ing, informed us that Jephson had reached 

walli’s the day before ee AE ; that Hailallah, 
‘a boy deserter, was in charge of Kavalli, and had grown 


as tall usa 5 We were also told that Malaju (tho 
Pasha) had Abecasstad ten men to Kavalli's to obtain 


= = 





OLD GAVIRA ESCORTS US. ne 


news of us, and that he had caused some fields to he 
cultivated near the lake, and had planted corn for our 
use. “What a good, thoughtful, kind man he must 
be!" we mentally remarked. 

As Mazamboni presented us with two ft beev 
was essential that the Zanzibaris, and the 
ier should be indulged « little after long abstinence 

flesh. “We accordingly halted on the 15th, and 
during the pay taes Gavim came in und imparted the 
ess that Jephson had arrived at Katonza’s 
village three daye before with late soldiers ; and 
ig Peoples who were ae well suy cen loth for 
pour, aud five doti each from Baye Desides 
heads, cowries, and wire, were able to invest in Inxuries 
to their hearts’ content, The Manyuema amiled blandly, 
and the Zanzibaris had contracted a habit, as they had 
seented the grass-lands, of erowing, which when once 
started was imitated hy nearly 800 people. 

Old Gavia escorted us the'next day, on the 16th, the 
date I should ive nem the Nya, and after- 
noon we were in one of the old villages which was once 
burned by us, und which was gain clean und new and 

pet and we welcome and honoured guests, only 
one day's march from the Lake. 

ax ‘that we were actually out of ae forest, and Ee 

more to do—since both the Pasha snd 
Me Jephson were on the Lake shore just below us, 
according to the native—viz., to deliver ie ammunition 
into the: Pasha's hands, and escort a fow tian 
home, Old Gayira had reason to suppose that afternoon 
that “ Bula Matari" was a very amiable person. 

Butat 5 rw, two Wahuma messengers eame with letters 
from Kavalli’s, and as I read them a ereeping feeling 
came over me which was a complete mental paralysis for 
the time, and deadened all the sensutions except that of 
unmil surprise. When I recovered myself the 

Jephson and the Pasha must certainly have 
tingled, need not criminate myself, however, ete 

any of any imagination may conceive what I 
must have felt after he has read the following letters — 


—— = 


” ie 






































‘arte. yostenlay for Teja, 
Ge without any. doubt they will be; the | = in| 
am cater acquainted xe with the letter he wrote to you, andl 
‘Think there ix nothing to be joined to it” 
Yours vory xincersly, 


(Bigned) Dn, Earx, 


Skp Leven xno Exe. 
Tangury, 214 Deeewber, 2888, 


‘Mz, Jephson having told to you whatever hus buppened here after 
swolsfy Dae t retain Com repeating the narrative, + Althongts for 
‘moment ther hupponed a movement in my favour, tho offioors, elated 

‘their victory, soon were Just ns bad us they were in the beginning 
cof thin ;.” Rveryone ia now fully decided to leave tho country for 


* This ‘thot the Pasha endorses what Mr. Jephson writes. 
$ Phe Pusha appears to adeait that he has read Mir, Jepson’ lotters 


i ce 









ut 
q 2352 BF ; By peeyaiays Bi yng 2 
ae 
ba ee 
; Tidal 
§ gigilerses 4 
: paul H 
2 é HH Fu Hid 
g He Ee at 
Hi Be i ie Hibis a 

HG Re a iid 

ae Bee amet ier 









EEE. 
He 
a 

ul 
Zz 7 
tet 


Ed 
i 
iH 
i 


i 
Ei 
; 
Ez 


we shoul! tiow be mate : he 
those yours; but instead of listening to him we listened to you, and 


‘The oiticers are all very much frightened nt what has happened, and wo 
fare now anxiously mwaitinye your arrival, und dexira to leave the eonntry 
pra yon: foe ay w08 vow rally pepuated that Khartoum has Sulla, 
‘and that’ you havo come from tho Khedive, ‘Iho groater part of the 
officers mudd all the soldier wish to reinstate the Pasha in 
he Rirptiann aru aad that if bo in rinatated venga wi 


Es) 


sway of erifyng cx provioaing A: Wo ar like rte fn a tap; they will 
lot aml L fear unless yon come very so0h you 


of the Soudan. Had this rebellion not bapponed, the Pasha could have 
ope the Douala in cheek for ome tne, Dat as i 8 he i poworlom 0 


Twould make the following suggestions concoruing your movements 
arrive ut Kavall's which, of cones, you will only adopt if you 





hg JF yoa,hare « wufcieot, foro with yo 
unnecessary change of soune officers aud ten thorw, 
i yourself como to Newb, bringing with you ay many men ax you 
Tring the #oodaneno oticrs, but not te soldiers, with you. 
nistivos in a-cation to Mawa with a letter in Arubio to Shuket 
ling him of your arrival, aud telling him you wish to see the 
Pusha and smyvelf, uid write abe to the Pashn of myself tolling wx 
niimber of men you have with yous it would, porhaps, be better to write 
40 mo, ns a lable to im might te confiscated 
On no noconnt bare anything to clo with people who come to you 
unaceompaniod by vither the Pauskn or myrelf. whoover they aro, or 
howevor fale their words may be. Neither the Faabn nor 1. think there 
fh the slightest dungor now of any atteropt to eapture sou being made, 
for the proplo are now fally porsuaded yon come trom Xgypt, wnd thay 











i — 





LETTERS FROM 3th. JEPHSON. 128 


Took to you to got them out of thoir diiouttios; wtill it wonld bw well for 
You to make your camp. 





of your 

Benioy Ap tla us be boa cracthfog rad galt your arial 

1 uh © val, in 

tno ahupo of ete gonts, iene coms eo haa bl rally 

ernaniny tsi, Nel the only etiof of station who has been 

‘Our ur nx the Donagla are concemed, i, of course, increased 
{iw in one way bottor 





ee people ara no he sume mrt tat ha clare fnght thine Sere 


ik —< ‘very ono iw 
okog toe poe arrival, the coming of tho Donagla has com 








on thay follow up thelr vitorles 

as T said toforn, for Edo not think the people will allow we to retire from 
Pouoountey; but Xf tho Donagla bare sm down to Khartoum for re 
‘inforcoments, and Lave dec 


ments, we t Manage to get out if you do not come later thus 
Gooch at Decasben bur ith witty wopostile to ovecs wha wal 


ADM G. 





IN DARKEST AFRICA, 


dostroy our Lout lest it ahonld fall into the hands of the Donagia} 1 there 
foro broke it up, na wo were unable to nave it. 
‘evnctuated ws fast ux possiblo, and it ix the intention of 
pe 





siealT wil com down fo you, I will Hot disguise the fact fo you 
that you will havo a difficult and dangerous task before you in dealing 
ill the Paata’s people, trust you will arrvo before the Dunagia 
rotum, or on easo will bo desparate, 

Tam, yours faithfully, 
(Signed) A.J. Moowresey Jurnson. 


Mr Rxrux 70 Ma, Sevnwon, 
t Gavin's, from Nyoum, and one day's snatch 
‘Comp at Gn EE ed ‘one day's cant 


Sanuary 7th, 1889, 
My wean Jevnson,— 

Your lotter of November Tth, 1888, with two postscript, ane dated 

November 4th, and the other dated December 18th, iv to hand and 


contents noted, 

Twill not criticise your lotter nur discuss any of its contents, T wish 
to be brief, and ly act; with that view I prosent you with a prieis 
events with our journey. 

‘Wo separated from the Pasha on the 231 of May last, with the under= 
sanding that in about two months you, with or without tv Pusha, wont 
start for Fort Bodo with wufiieient porters to take the goods at the Fort 

convoy them to tho Nyunzo, the Pusha expressing hixaelf unxiowx 

Yoo Mt. Pisgah and our Fort, and, if words nay te relied on, Ne was 

ous to assist we in his own relief, We somewhat doubted whither 

hie affairs would permit the Pasha's absoneo, but we were asnred you 
‘bot romain inactive, 

‘Te way also understood that the Pasha would creot a rminil station on 
iS Taand wy a provision depot, in onder that our Expedition 

fat Red moana of sabelstoucn on arrival at thn Lake. 
ght months hare wlaysed, and not one single prise haw boon 


On he, othe hand we, faithful to our promise, dapat Crom, the 
ju 


‘Nyanga Plain May 25th, arrived at Fort 10 Kth—tifteen di 
from the Nyanza. Conveying %0 Lieatonant Stairs and Cuptain Nelen 


= a 


| 





ut 








i Be He Hi g Hii He 2 if 282262 
uy So ges 22 €2 car 
te ly es ad i ie 

3 4 $38 fe geegee] sted pate: 

4 282 5, peisiiicize 2 22 iis 

ti a aa Hare id 

: i Oe Ree 

: Wp Heel acti 

is Rib dR 

5 § a8 fesect: <2 § 2, 32 2 

3 og sg lectasigizes ag72 38 5 

5 it =: 2232523222 2 2232 a: 

a i Pee Beier yse 2539 z 
ai! iti su ii aH i 

222% Pa] € . 

ee 32 uel ue niall 2 $345 BH 
ie i 3ié- qi qiifeie 5 





IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


a 
staging hero 
foro, in thik official and formal Lotter ‘ine this q 
ot to you, I designate Kavalievilage ns the redeawous ese 
os alling f wooelve bem who a dose of aries ition, soto, of 
new cy complication by perso! 
intardew or seaod fata fa y08 if 


i now Taltress mysalf to Yon porsanally. 1f you consider yourself 
for my, anders, then, upon rocuipt 
‘of this Jettor, you will at once lonve for Kavalli's with’ such of my mon— 
Bina and tho Sondanese—as are willing to obey you, and bring to me the 
fin decision of min Paaba and Gucuti reepecting thoir personal 
{Intentions TET any aot at Raval thon, stay there, ind aond word by 
Jig mosis of Kavall’s messengers to Mplngs, Ohiet of Gavin, who 
‘when probally T shall roecive it, 
‘You will understand that it will bo x sovere strain on Kavalli' nonowned 
to miintnin us with provisions longer than six days, nnd if you are 
Jone than this peril wo rons elie to Muzainonts, and aly to 
oar enon the tori Fores, Othorwie we must eine provisions iy 
foreo, and any act of violence would ent off and close native communica 
tion.” This difficulty might have teen avoided had the Pasha followed 
ny suggvation of making a dopit at Nyameus, ‘The fact that ther ara 
i wk Mawn soos not help ws at all. ‘There are provisions in 
iropo also, Buk uinfortnnitely they akw ax inacecwsitle au thowo of 
Mawa. Wo havo no boat now to communicate by loko, and yon donot 
‘mention what bne become of the ateamers, the Aheive and \yanss, 
‘Tundorwtand that the Pasha hax boon daposod and is prisoner. Who, 
thou, ‘st communists with the respecting: what in to be done? T haye 
bo aitharty to receive comonications from the olrers-mautnear, Tt 
wns ple Twas supposed to relieve, min 
Pushin wan dena then to fix ineful puceemar in authority. Emin Pasha 
being alive provente my recoiving » communication any other 
Person, anton ho bo denignated by the Pusha: Thersforo tho Daal, if 
‘ha tunable to come in parson to me nt Kavulile with » wutficiont exon 
of faithful snen, oF lw unable to appoint some person authorised to rovelve 
this rolief, it will romain for me to destroy the ammunition 0 laboriously 
Drought, Here, amd retwen, hone 
Finally, if tho Paaha'e people uxo desirous of leaving thix part of 
Ain, an et in sou coualey not far remote fom here, or anywhere 
ing the Nyanza (Victoria), or wlong the route to Zanzi, Cam 
‘porfoctly ready th nssiet, besides escorting those willing to go home to 

















en 





MOY REPLY TO MB. 


Bil ‘Hewny M. Staxcer, 
on. igned) rAMEEY, 


‘Qo A, J. Movwresny Jrvnsow, 





ci A HOG Pepe eiey ry a 
An silt Hae Hey aril rut 
HE Huge Ga ci a 
fl ROBB O UE ie tie ig 
PH ijetiuen Hes By 3 
fay Hosts att lh 
Page naUE ieee a F 
oie ouehed! HRN g 
2 UE he Wp ae 12 
areata HEE, iat i 
ie i He ey ua : 
ey ioe atl FE mat uit 
ESP un itn iB 


IN DARKEST APRICA. 


of late years, As soon as they touch its ground, they 
to be drawn into a whirlpool, which seks them in and covers thei 
‘with ita waves. Tho only way to avoid it is to obey blindly, devotedly, 


‘Evelyn Baring said the rame thing, 

i here Lam, after 4,100 miles of travel, 
‘instalment of rolief. Let hitn who ia authorinod to take it, 
Como; Tam ready to lend in all my strength snd wit to weniot 
‘But this time there ust be no hesitation, but positive you or nny, 


‘Yours very sincerely, 
Hawuy M. Stastny, 


Camp at My one long marob 
from tho Nyunan, aud 10 tiles cast of Muzumboni', 


ai Peas anwary 15th, 1889. 
In Rxeelloncy Few Pantra, 
Governor of Uwe Equatocial Province. 


have the honour to inform you that tho second im 
Talla which this Kxpedition wae ordered to convey to you is now Ja thie 
amp, ready charged to receive ol. 

Tint wo should daponte teat Kavall or at Kyyn Nkoatots on 
Ta drawo, we shail te rondy to do 00 on the receipt of your instructions 

‘Thin second inatalmont ef relief consists of vixty-throo canoe Remi 
cartridges, twenty-six enses of gunpowder, each 40 Ibm weight 
cnaos of pironesion capa, four halon of goods, ono bale of goods for 
Conati—a gif from myell; ‘Wo pieces of blue verge, writing-poper, 
‘envelopes, blunt e. 

Moving’ altor groat ditficulty—greater than wax anticipated —browght 
Belle to you, Lem sonstrained to oflally demand from yor rceipt for 
the above goods und relict brought to you, and alo a definite answor to 
the question if you propos to necept OnE escort aml waistanee Lo reach 
Zanzibar, or i€ Signor Casati proporer to do 10, or whether there are any 
‘officers oF mon disposed to nesept of our safe eouluct to the sex, In the 
Iter oro, I would to obtined to zou Sf sou wookd Kindly state how 
Show persone desirous of Jonving Afri can te communicated, with. 

reapwetfully. t that wil persons desirous of leaving with me 
should to nnd form camp either ot Neabéor at Kyya Nkondo's. 
th, 





mont of 





on vke, with sufficient storws of grain, cko,, to xupport ther one 
‘month, onxl that m noto should be sent to me informing toc of the same wd 
Kavalli, whenco 1 soon may teeeive it. ‘The person in charge of the 
people Wt thie camp will inform me definitely whother tho people am 





— 


LETTER TO EMIN PASiHtA. 120 
to of ome safe condi thus 
ready to accopt of our x Scepter tae informed, 


T shall be pletsed. to assure charge of 

Bean Sat ck toeyly dary nd res ina hoard from you or Mr 
Jeptacn I cannot hold mye for what nay Ippen. 
should bo glad to stay at Kuvalli'e ‘vo mare nssured of fo, it a Tar 
following eamot be maintai except by 

by force, which would entirely with the natives, and: 
‘Prevent as from being able to communicate with you. 


If grain could bo landed at Kya Nkondo’s by steamer, and loft in 
‘obarge of six or seven of your men, f could, upon being int of tho 
a detarhsoant Gf mea tana tay fe $0 Mae pletans._ Tt foonly se 

i food that erontos anxicty. Honco you will porceive that Lam, 








necessity of requesting yo to be very dofintin aud prompt, if 
Tintin the riod of ayn you will be able to communtente 
ia ome nay way Lou anoso malt unl, 
or ln efoctivo ald, ‘ta straint every effort to perform service 10. 
you, Meuntim, ve Fon wtoamer with great ansiety.* 
1 am, your obetiont sarvant, 
Hoexny M. Stasiny, 
Commanding Retlef Expedition, 


The second day after reaching Kavalli’s, thirty rifles 
PaOrictbapatshes to is UAVS busts, with say wptian 
Emin Pasha and Mr, Jephson, The men delivered the 
letters to Chief Mogo, and on their return to our camp 

ed that the chief had departed from Newbé for 
Biaaipeaticaal Decided ehneartie dave walla cicered 
five beeves, six goats, and five days’ rations of Indian 
corn, beans, sweet potatoes and millet, and farther 
contributions were on the way to camp from the 
surrounding chiefs, 

‘On the evening of the 21st, notice was brought to me 
that the Balegga were collecting to attack us, and early 
‘the following morning sixty rifles, with 1,500 Bavira 
and Wahuma were sent to meet them. The forces met 
‘on the crest of the mountains overlooking the Lake, and 
the Balegga, after a sharp resistance, were driven to their 
countrymen. eee subjects of Melindwa, who was 
the ally of Kabba Rega. 

of times, yet T fail to. see bow this 
wy 


Hoi ial otiee whic iggentid by Mr. Je ‘ight ha’ 
etl a iy Mr. Jeph, gh hae 
alo the bet offcoryIads could have wouaded the ion leat 


Seer, 26 Fre Sekirpet that the Basha was very saudl: 
nist Nothing wae furthor from my miod than 4o afloat & 
Boson ei ee ing to obtain a definite anewor to the question 
“Will you stay ‘or accompany mo?” 

Th. 9 


a 


yoman 


+ 





_— | 


+ 180 LY DARKEST AFRICA, 


1s, ‘The 23rd was apent hy all the people of the plain 
Jon country ws a reseed day, and the Bayira women 
Nye Tot at the camp to relieve their joy at their deliverance 
from their inveterate enemy, with dancing and singing, 
which lasted from 9 ast. until drat, Each woman and. 
child in the dance circles was decked with bunches of 





A WELLE O nAVIHA, 


een leaves in front and reav, and was painted with red 
clay, while their bodies were well smeared with butter. 
The dance was excellent and exciting and not 1 

racoful, but the healthy vocal harmony was better. 

le Young warriom circled round the featald ances al 
exhibited their dexterity with the spear. 

Deriog the following days we bad rest and: quit 
Contributions of cattle, sheep, gonts, fowls and pro- 











MR, TRPUSONS REPORT. ial 
visions were supplied daily with great regularity, but 
on the Sth ba aie nA ammeter l, 
stating that he had arrived on the Lake shore, and a 
detachment of Zanzibaris was at once sent to escort him 
to the plateau, the distance being about thirteen miles. 

The next day Mr. Jephson himself arrived, and after 
dinner, in conversing about the Pasha, he summed 
after nine months’ residence with him, all he had baci 
in the following words :— 

“Sentiment is the Pasha's worst enemy. No one 

Emin Pasha back but Emin Pasha himself.” He 
further said, “IT know no more about Emin Pasha's 
intentions this minute than you do yourself, and yet we 
have talked together every day during your absence.” 
T then asked him to write mea full report of what had 
taken place, bearing upon the revolt of the troops of 
Equatoria, and his views respecting the invasion of the 
Province by the Mahdists, nnd ite results Mr, Jephson 
readily complied, and wrote the following -— 


Kavalli's Villagn, Albort Nyanss 
Pe ea 

have the hononr to sbmit to son the followin of my 

10 the etenttne, wi is alone} 


ties from Hin Hophes Une Kt unl a Hi 
trom Hs Hy 
scidiery, and 


i 


an to whether they elected to accept our snferconduct to Egypt, 


qi je exception of Labord, thelr unanimous 
sell follow our mudir wherever Ho goca” | They all 
own, anal wad 


g 
is 
iit 
aH 





Hee 
Ha 
: 


‘of iy stay mn his cou 
‘porfoot Wberty to mix with the and peopl 


tho BEd ballon eo steed tore going farhee to ear nem fea, 
wo i er, to hen news 
in and weal of Kare ie cceupled by tho 
ly fon . Hore the Pasha reeelved 
a eet Hand theo teat Titalon, boos him not 
tocome on to Rejaf, ax thy bad 


ey tha Pasha baa tft 
la, and 1 was free to 


: 
ai 


132 IN DARKEST AFRICA, 


us down to Khartoum, 1x tee believed Government still existed the 
nd thatthe neva that it bad fallen ws false. ‘We wore therefore obliged 
w 


ions, 

On our rotwen, whilst reading the letters betore the poople wt Labor’, a 

soldier sayned out of the ranks and esol,“ A! that you are 
otters are forgeries, Khartoum has not fallen, 

As the right rod to Egypt, Wo will go by thut road only, or will atay 





‘OnE nonce cortain chet amongst thm Absil Wahab Ten 
and Mustapha Efondi el Adjemi, both of whom were sent up here for 
doing concerned in Arabi's rebellion, together with the clerks Mustapha 
Fffundi Achmet, Achmet Effendi Mabmond, Subei Effendi, Tybe Effendi, 


job with the Punta te take all the 
Puatn over, together with tholrwivewnod ahildren, a» slaves t9 tho tnlinh, 


an WO 
Dull 
honk 





Twas bronght up before the mutineors and questioned about the Ex 
ition, and the lottor from Hin Highness was examined and declared 
the clarks to be  forgory. Tho inulmeurs then propowwd to depowe 

Pasha, aud. all thow wlio wore averse to such m anenmnre were by 
Jntimidation at Yast forced to give in. A letter was handed to hin ine 
forming. him of hin deponition, ane it was decided that he ahontd bo kept 
& prisoner at Roja. I was declared to bo free, but to all sntente and 
purpowes 1 prisoner, ax I wus not allowed to leave the xtation, and 
all my movements wore lowly watehed. A plan was alwo formed to 
‘entiog you to rob you of all your guns, ammunition, 
toros, 00, drift. 

1o form a new Government, and all thw 










138. 


MR, JEPHSON'S REPORT. 


il 





yl Pete GHIAUYL HULSE iui 
Zune Bie s peee Saceitay Fees 
Hie A 
na ai 2G? He a ee e°dacige gfeizer2izics 
a Hig iis B Stages ne ea tag figiaelsiete 
ay avant re Hee lee 
bpd) Lele igi [ile 
Be fyuiane Saute lea spitayel 
hai AU As WCE dati a] 
une 3 2 i A E eel he Hy =3| ae any ali 
: Hae pais peer AH aul =f, Eu ae 
He pe Het H 2225733 


te 


eed nati 


BHEE Hee 





IN DARKEST AFRICA, 


Pasha, ‘The lettors contained the news that Fabbo had been evne 
Sete ited te sare he eee aS 

: = : 
Matus ae poopie for four days, and the station iteclf Ind boon takon and 


H 
cad 





‘they, finding themselvos betwoon two fires, had with the of despair 
spi to or, Bal 
incl ro-antoreed tho wtatyon 





Feo all aoconnts wo havo sinew hoard tho soldiors noted with groat 
eowarlico, ‘at last when they woro renderod desperate, Tu this 
affiay at Datlé, fourteen offloore and a large number of soldiers were 
aiid, wud Suloionan Agu Was shot by his awn men, aud Ins wince died, 

“ho lowses of the enemy worw extimated at 250, but pape third of 
‘it wombor wontd bo nearer the mark, even though the Maids people 
fought nlmoxt ontinly with apoars and words, and the soldiars wore 
armed with Remingtons, and fought bolind a ditoh and earthworks, 
‘bnt they are auch bad shots that their shooting had not much affect. 

The oftlcers wnd soldiers at Wadolai wore anxious for the Pasla to 
rolarn, but after Uy faithiew uxamplo tho woldiers had khown, when bw 
Volieved things to be cesporate, he proferred to proceed to ‘Tungura, 
Aftor thin retreat from Wadelai, lasting only two d am bettor able 
to understand whnt a diffioult and almost, impossible taxk gotting tho 
Feople to Zanzibar will be, should they elect to yo with ua 

“After this rotroat from Wadolai, the party against the Pasha, which is 
again in the ascendant, ow tat the immedinte fear of the Muhdi's 

lo ik rumoved, hve noousod hian of having invontod. the whole story 
Of tho fall of Dutt, sn onter to eut off their rutreat and hand them over 

















— — 





af 





3 S95; LEVLSGATEL HETGESE Mieveeens upg: 
ie Bee Eid HERS f ii¢ 
ee ae 

, PIU Geen IRE 

£ af8 s432982592;95i402227 228 dsge? 

: ue ET at 

ee eid 

: 221: i H a3 bgfeislssce 23282 

Ey Bag. : ge Hulu scaly Hal 
ie 2 4222 i] Beg 22. EHene Es £22 z 
se: lutte (Geibetild 

Specesseie, sf22:822).s2ic8aie2- Ee 
Helin salud 





Four 

+ the pat life; 
anations, bk 

‘ansioty would 





ls, 


took plago Augunt 18th, 


‘the 


iph from Mohammed, 
xped 





136 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 
latign, it. the soldiers had rf, to olay the onda, ail hy had 
Tesi Sinks wail vam not bil sara tan goodn ui paving of 
Hort vet ort eal Wnt ony moa 
evenly, and me the Kuroprans in elirgo privanern 
fafa uo tow tay hf wor ony te mo of 
affnirs in this conntry when L ontered it on Bint Ay s48. The firwt 
battalion had Tong boon in opett rebellion against the Pasha's authority, 


2 


and had twice ipted to make him prinoner ; the second batt 

{Bong profosediy yal, was hasbordinae and almost anmmapageabie 
the Pudin powered! only a vorablanoa, a motu tagof anthorty—nud Ifo 
required aasthing of iorine 4 be dono he could no longer ore, he 
is 





‘Now when we wore at Neabé in May ‘88, though the Pasha hinted that 
things wer n little diffionlt in thix country, he never revealed to us the 
true state of things, which wns actually desperate: and we had not the 
sa oF dlacanant wa Ukaly to ares amoneat 

sand 
tat ta and Dr, Junker’ inter 
informant difficulties arone from events otaide hin 


wt id help, and who instead of being 
seinbi inal 


to he mninears in 
‘oan af injuntion, 
the would anost 
‘asin 


There aro of course some people who haw romaine faithful to the 
Pashia, and many who have remained nentral, and these chiefly are the 
people who rw willing to como out with ws There are also a great 
‘number of Egyptian clerks, many of whom have behaved very laudly, but 
‘Nhe coming of the Mahiis people has so frightoued them that they too 
‘now wish to come out with mx: but in »pite law ‘constant névico to them. 
to mov forwant, they som Mmeapable of making aay effort to leave 
the country and concontrate at Neube, at which place they wold. be 
within one reach—there is absolutely nothing to prevent ther doing #0, 
ithe ee cok a t of the: Jat iber of a 

greater lo, a Jango Humber tians and anos 
feat tends ns Cone eves going to atl and donot wink 
to Jeave the country. Most of thera have never been to Egypt, but have 
oot Fveruited from the countriow raatul here. Here they etu snpport a 
large howrahold, many of the officers have ax many as from eighteen to 
ou nade yop, women, children al servants inthe hase, aud 
Gt iA the great ambition of evory Sondanoso to have an many pooy 
lo im ie hows, Int én Exypt they could only adfon to mupport 
we or four people on their pay. ‘These things being considered, 1 is 
quite natoral thot thoy should prefer to reuuaia in their own eountey. 

‘Ax to tho Paxha's wikh to leave the country, 1 can may decitedly he ix 
‘Host anxions to go out with us, ut under what condition he will consent 
w cout T ean hardly nnderwtand, 1 do not think he quite knows 

fs hic fdas soon to mo to vary #0 mh on the abject today he 








a 
ready to start up and go, to-morrow #ome new iden holds him back. 
ve bud many conversations with him aboot it, but have never been 
spinon on the wager. Afvr this rebwlion 
‘Drostime now that sour people have deposed. yor 
nd put you aaide, you'do uot cousider that you have any longer Any 





rt _ 


: 


LETTER FROM EMIN PASHA. 137 


them in 1 could, hut now, 
Man 30, a ay i 


; a rR 
peti rte rei toy tn eet 
ely tm perwonal sae aid elite ant if 


retesne apaen a (Signed) A, J, Mouwrexey Jiritnox, 
‘Commanding ths Kolet Rspedition, 


Mr, Jephson also handed me an official receipt to my 
formal letter of January 18th, written by Emin Pasha, 


‘Tongura, 
‘To Ht, M. Sr, f, Ean. vo Teh, LR, 
Cotman iho Hllt Expedition, baat 


Thave tho honour to acknowledge receipt of your note of Jann 
th, Camp Undnemunnn, and of your offoia Totes of Junaary 7th, wht 
-eathe (0 han T bog at tho same time to be allowol 
{Secrest soogetuation 12 you sd you pri or the 
‘work yon pet 
T faln woe of your offer Wo deliver o me, or any person apyiatad 
Be aa teens Userstsnny Of erate nai yaaa creel at che 
‘ses of Rotnington cartsidee, twonty-sig cases of gunpowder, ena 
45 The. weight, four cases percunsion caps, four tales of goods, one halo of 
fad fr sor Cacath-a gt fon youre en ess of ayo, 
qurelgpn lank-boks, eA soon an thy flr a 
‘tm Some ere sil apt othe aha 


fl 
hea nae hall at the mane duatract bim to give 


i 


a P 





7 


7 


188 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


whioh formed tho fret 

See ree Neal 

‘Zanzibur, and if there are any officers 

to accept of your wafe-conduct to the sa, 1 have to 
Craat would, 


Ahat hare are lots of people desires of polng ont from 





days they ten eo in, 


lp be i th T re ee 
aman, and wm fra party ntnrt ‘with Mr. Jephson. Every one 
i buon provinions faoteh to lst at Yustfor acute 


T hog to tonder my thanks for the statement of your movementa, AK 
from the day you fixed your movements until the arrival of your Totter 
olapsedl nino days; the remainder of the time sou kinlly gave ws, viz, 





olovon days, wi therefore, but thank 

us evo io you iota val a, uu peetceYoaare St he 
rast favo com can await UH, 

twenty dass have sp 





your pooplo, and Tam very sorry that the short time you have to give 


ie will not 

‘As Me. Jephson starts by this steamer, and has kindly promised to 
hand you this nota, L avail myself of the oocaxion to bear witnows to the 

nt help aud assistance his presence afforded to me, Under the most 

rving circumstances he has shown so aplendid courage, such unfaltering 
‘kindiosa and patienco, that Toannot but, wish him evory success in life, 
and thank. lim for all his forbearance, As probably I xhall not. seo you 
Any more,* you will bo pleased to infora his relatione of say thanks to 
‘hitm and thom, 

Rofore conciniling, E bee to be permitted to tender anew my moat 
hoartfolt thanks to you and to your officers and men, and to nak you to 
transmit my everlasting gratitude to the kind people who sent you to 

‘ud May God protect you and your party, and give you a “happy 
spoody homeward march. 








Tam, Sir, 
‘Your obediont rervant, 
(Bigned) ‘Dr Faun Pasta, 


* Ido not know what induced the Pasha to write in this melanchol; 
strain, for ns plain as toozue conld speak, and pon could write, 1 hi 
Woon éndeavouring to explain to him that we considered ourselves as his 
servants, and bound bo render auy sorvioe in our powor to hina, provided 
he but dintinetly and definitely stated his wishes. 








CHAPTER XXV. 


EMIN PASHA AND HIS OFFICERS REACH OUR CAMP: 


AT KAVALLL 
ont, Stare ao hie cara aro pent (at-large lng 
of Hain trom, Tuagari-—Osnreraions epheon bw 
y corset aw of the viata atone Teh 
relewe Kinin, and in. the am. 





nt aH our Cie as Pasha’y arrival 
isin ‘nd ilavesareiconsi aa 


ere message 
fees ii revise centile Bese 


apply as with carers -Oaplaar i Halse iu Emin's 
i with the chiefs from the Tturi River to the 
=the Kntin-Bage, Hin, Posha's 
‘trom 





Usiri 
ip omartng alia Bay ‘and Sbukt Agh- 

mo to Stale, Ni ‘nd Parke boforo Emin Pasha—Their 

ripliie—Notioas to yy ‘Bey and Shukri Agha, 


Ox February 7th I decided to send for Lieutenant 
Stairs and fis caravan, and despatched Rashid with 
thirty-five men to obtain a hundred carriers from Mazam- 
boni to assist the convalescents, My object was to col- 
eet the expedition at Knvalli, and send letters in the 
meantime to Emin Pasha proposing that he should: 


1880, 
Feb. 7. 
Mayall. 


18RD 
Ben. 


140 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


Ist. Seize a steamer and embark such people as chose 
to leave Tangura, and sail for our Lake shore camp. 
* After which we could man her with Zangibaris, and per- 
form with despatch any further transport service neces- 
sury. If this was not practicable, then— 
8nd. To march to Mewa station overland, and on 
arrival to report by canoe that he had done so. If this 
was not possible, 
3rd. Stay at Tonguru, and let me know by Chief 
Mogo whether he needed a force of rescue, 





TAR) see oF CAME av RavaLLE. 





Tn which case, on arrival of Lieutenant Stairs, 1 pro- 

wed to march with $00 rifles and 2,000 native anxi- 
iavies through Melindwa to Mswa station, and thence to 
Tunguru, to employ force for the relief of the Pasha, 
But it was absolutely necessary that 1 should he clearly 
told what the Pasha wished. “In his letter of the 27th 
January there was a disposition to be somewhut luchry- 
mose and melancholic, quite contrary to what was ex- 

ted in answer to the definite question given in the 
formal otter of January 17th, “Was he disposed to 
accept our escort and assistance to reach Zanzibar, or 
suggest to me any way by whieh I could make myself 











— 





MR. JEVHSON AND BMIN PASHA, dai 


useful or lend effective aid.” If he stated his wish deci- 
sively then, then I promised “to strain every effort to 
perform service to him.” 

Perceiving that neither my letter to Mr, Jephson— 


sensitive susceptibilities of any person—leust of 
the Pasha—I wrote one after a style which prohably 
Serale Bet et ns ene was the 
proper , Which my friend Jephson pronounced 
was erence and “nice,” and “ exquisitely sweet,” 
and on the Sth sent the couriers down to the Lake 

dena h Mr. Jephson. 
ay by day, during conversation with Mx. Je; — 
who was, “by the bye,” a pronounced EministT ace 
quired a pretty correct idea of the state of affairs, There 
was one confirmed habit I observed that Mr, Jephson 
had contracted during his compulsory residence with the 
Pasha whieh provoked a smile, and that was, while say~ 
ing several crushing things about: the Province, he inter- 
Jaded his clever remarks with—* Well, you know, the 
, dear Pasha! He is a dear old fellow, you know. 
on ae word, 1 can’t help but sympathise with the 
Pasha, he’s such a dear good man,” ke., &e, They served 
to illuminate traits of character, and showed that, at all 
events, Jephson had a kindly heart, and what he had 
seen and heard only made him esteem the Pasha the 
more; but when he spoke of the Egyptians, the most 
portentous vocabulary was requisitioned to load them 
with abuse ~“ unmitigated scoundrels, depraved villains, 
treacherous dogs, unserupulously vile,” &c., &e, The 
Beyprians were “animals with foxy natures,” the 
So were "brutishly stupid.” One chief clerk 
had falsified accounts at the Khartoum Arsenal, and had 
‘been the recipient of 1,500 stripes with the kourbash ; 


As there was no intention to wound the most anper 








= 


1880, 
Hob. 7 


Koval, 


fo 





Feb. 7. 
‘Bovotti’ 


Wa IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


another had been detected making huge profits by 
mixing powdered charcoal with the gunpowder, and 
filling Remington cartridges with it, A’ major 
been convicted of trading in Government stores ; others 
had been sent to the Siberia of the Equator as convicts, 
guilty of various felonies, arson, murder, &e, ; others 
owere trans] thither for being concerned in Arabi's 
rebellion, &c., &e.; and it became clear that whatever 
sanguine hopes the Pasha had cherished, he must 
‘often have distrusted his powers during his constrained 
intercourse with the penal outcasts placed under 
him. While there wax a reserve of dominating 

ower, and an overshadowing personality of stern juatice 
hh the figure of Gordon at ‘Aharfoum, the serfs 
were under some control, though Gessi Pasha, even as 
far back ax 1879, was copious in complaints of Emin to 
Gordon, but when the news spread throughout the Pro- 
vince that Khartoum was taken, and the Governor- 
General alain, and all tacea of Egyptian Government 
ld vanished, the native unruliness of the Egyptians, 
and brutish stubbornness of the Soudancse found vent, 
and was manifested in utter disregard to orders, and per- 
verse misconduct. Emin was now a Pasha in name and 
title only. Government was petrified, order was deud. 
Some men, in Emin’s place, would have become so dis- 
gusted, that after arming themselves with excuses for 
retreat by overt proofs of contempt of his authority, 
would have collected a few faithful men, or have re- 
tired to some small post like Mswn station at the remote 
South, reported frankly the events, and have applied 
for relief and instructions. Others, again, would have 
exacted performance of duty and discipline to the very 
end, regardless of consequences, Others, again, would 
have removed with such as were willing from the arena 
of perpetual discord, founded an empire or a kingdom, 
and have applied for assistance from the civilized world, 
which they would certainly have obtained. Others, like 
Emin did, would have temporised and hoped. Men, 
however, reap only whut they have sown ; ns the seed is 
sown, 80 will be the harvest. 





REBEL OFFICERS AY WADELAL a 


But while we were discussing the probable decision of ta 
the Pasha, and awaiting the arrival of Stairs’s column," 
events unknown to us were occurring, which decided the 
matter for us as well as for Emin. 

ie officers, whe were concentrated at Wadelai, 
while Jephson was on his way to us South of Tunguru 
heard of our arrival on the Lake, had ified 
our We had several hu Zavzibaris and 
allies, and we were armed with machine guns and re- 
penting rifles, The Egyptian Government at Khartoum 
was dead, and in its place wax a Khalif, with resistless 
armies fully established. There were Mahdist agents 
and traitors among them, the rest were indifferent, in 
was deposed, and a prisoner. To him who hath shall be 
given, Like a rolling snowbnll, power, when once estab- 
ished, attracts and grows; an isolated snowdrop melts, 
Emin was the anowdrop, the Khalif of Khartoum was the 
growing snowball. 

It is ensy, therefore, to understand the motives of the 
officers, who are declared rebels, who have traitors and 
Mahdists among them to influence their councils, and to 
predict what the natural outcome will be. They will 
curry favour with the Khalif by betrying their would 
be rescuers and their former Pasha and his white com- 

lions into his hands, and win honowr and slo by «0 
Soing. For the machine guns, repeating rifles and 
ingtons, nnd a batch of white prisoners, the Khalif 
would reward them handsomely, and promote those 
chiefly concerned in their delivery to him to honour- 
able and Inerative offices, and endow them with robes of 
honour. But there is a difficulty. How will they gain 
neces to the camp of their rescuers when they huve 
heard of the Pasha being imprisoned and their friend 
Jephson having been treated so cruelly? “ Nothing 
easier,” says ong; “let us send a deputation to the Pasha 
to humbly ack forgiveness, and promise to reinstate him 
ted and Emin is so good-natured that he will 
ily condone our offences, and offer to introduce us to 

his friends as penitents, who, wearied with trouble, only 
now seek to prove their obedience and loyalty to their 


(li r | 


IN DARKEST AFRICA. 





| 


for all white men are soft~ 
hh s. it is wise to have two ways 
from which to choose,” If the Khalif is relentless, and 
his Donagla pursue us with that fierceness so character 
istic of them, and the door to his merey is closed, we can 
fall back upon the camp of the white men, and by ap- 
parent obedience disarm all suspicion, make use of them 
to find us a land of plenty, and suddenly possess our- 
selves of their arms and ammunition, and either vend 
them adrift as beggars, or slay the whites and make their 
followers our slaves.” 

We can imagine the thunders of uppliuse that greeted 
this Egyptinn son of Beelzebub ox he ended his oration, 
Bat aiethar such a speech was made or not, the officers 
despatched a deputation to the Pasha, of fourteen officers, 
‘They kissed Emin’s hands, they expressed humble con- 
trition for their offences, they offered to reinstate him 
in power as Governor, and they implored him to accom= 

ny them to Stanley's ead at Kavalli, and to speak 

or them, and the Pasha gladly acceded to their request. 
He embarked on hoard the steamer Kiedive; refugees 
crowded on board with their goods and bagumge, and 
Captain Casati was with them with bis following, and 
the Nyansa likewise was freighted, and with every show 
of lonour the Pasha was brought to Mawa. At this 
station he met my messengers with my last letter, and 
having read it, he resumed his voyage to our Lake shore 
fad 








ile Jephson and I were at dinner on the evening 
of February 13th, messengers came to us and delivered 
to us a letter from Emin Pasha. 

Comp, 
February Yth, 1889, 


‘To Hewey M, Stawtey, Raq, Commanding the Relief Expedition, 
Sin 


Tn apswor to your lotter of tho 7th instant, for whieh 1 beg to 
tendor niy beat thanks, 1 have the honour to inform you that yesterday, at 
Bim 1 ueriyod hore with my two steamers earryiag a first lot of pocplo 


= — 


LETURE PROM BMIN PASITA, 45 


hai, te Ire tle coma escort A soon J hare 
ey on ooodles k ce pean 

econ ‘awa rie 
ee Binites cee ‘anxions to ere you, and only 


Siemens ‘ome Thy ‘tha rave 
iy whiah cvarsus the Sountey hak sttaidads od of mink peoplo 
se sow coming with me wezny bear. 


Signor 
ee thanks for whatever 
yon have done for na tntil-now, und believe me to be, 
Yours vory tithfally, 
Dr. Koune, 


The Pasha evidently believes that his men are still 
faithful to him, He says: “ You will be able to make 
= undergo whatever conditions you see fit to impose 

them... ."_ “Of auch people as are now coming 
th me you may be sure.” 
Thope so, but if one-half of what Jephson says is 
gan Pasha must have greater confidence in them 
than T can command, However, if the “wave of 
eepetate ol Tee so much the better. All is well 
that ends well. Jephson will go down to the Lake 
oe with fifty rifles, to escort the Pasha and his 
officers to the Plateau, 1 shall send couriers also to 
Stairs at Mazamboni’s to bring up his force ee that 
we may be all at hand to impress our rebel friends hy 
the Sey cn our pea fantastic warrior-carriers deploy at the 


February ‘ae “Received note from Stains unnoune- 
ing arrival at Mazamboni’s, which states he may arrive 
on the 17th or 18th instant. He writes: “ We were all 

ted ut the Ituri River Camp at the arrival of your 

uae with Chief Rashid, bringing the news ‘that 

pictoan was with you; but the news about Emin Pasha 
10 


—a 


Kura 

















Mite e BB a 
ii “it 
i futit 
7H 
ae 
* is ite Hh 5 un I i 
z uilean i 3 ii 
| vi yt Hee anatE| 





CHARACTERISTIC LETTER FROM JEPHSON. 147 


wate mers Ee ea ive a 





want 
aod Koval "The Pasa renonstrotel with Casa for taking ll i 
‘earthen jars, 


pay whieh be onl 
ua fred to take al xe oud" 
have and would rather load down our 


gu, un avers to ie ving in 
sea ok “sans 0 ‘and my urgent letter, 

‘ns Iie connidened it impolitie.” 
eran Tamen st the race osha pel al Ae 
ty ur a ve thing ws they rually are. 

“the Fumour of the "white wna's” expedition to Yallibeg bas turned 
aut to be, aa Clerk Jopson say, “ll wasn," and ‘mare has 
unit refuse to move until he has sufficient carriers to take him wna 
pL aoe eat The is very irritated about it, 
“Tho boat (Av/ernce) has hoon sory woll mended with Lolts Jost ike onF 
own. Tam eae 


I thin: ‘to got moms 
tan, if pombe, some sre tolta The Pash hus iso brought te Hight 
royet} sh belonged to Gordon's indi-rubber bout, wo that we have 20W 
‘rhe Pasta, Cass, and the of8cers deairo mo to end you hele 


Taam, &o,, 0, doy 
A.J, Movrrmxny Juranon, 


‘The Pasha, 200 loadat Casati, who has lost every- 
Ra ity loads! Vita, the apothecary, forty 
ort the Greek, sixty Toads != 380 fouds for oa 

‘Trne, I promised to convey everythin 
ey to athe Plateau Camp but grinding stones! “ Well, 
I fel such a promise, we must keep it, 1 suppose, 
However, there is no harm in Mr. Jephson fuming a 


From the Pasha the following note was received -— 


Tikaw Sin 
‘Ms. Jophem with your people have arrived yestantay, und w 
to amet tosmoreow mowing; 1 shall therefore have ti leery 
‘seo gor the tomorrow." My inen aro vory anxions 10. heat 
from your pat thir fois tehuvione 12th’ pat wll st 
‘proveint you thnn. 


at 


Co 


5 


ae "I 


ee IN DARKEST AFRICA 


ta,” ete some Sino oy 


Feb. i. oi sgl itor i 


Rex aiaiel aaa aise 
‘Yours very faithfully, 
Dr. Kaen, 


February Vith.—Emin Pasha’s caravan, consisting of 
me sixty-five persons, reached this camp about noon, 
‘he officers, who are a deputation from the revolted 
tm at Wadelai, are hi by Selim Bey—promoted 
by the Pasha, He is six feet ete large of 
Aa about fifty years old, black as coal: Tam rather 
inclined to like him. The malignant and deadly con- 
tor is always lean, I read in this man's face, 
indolence, a tendency to pet his animalism. He is a 
mun to be led, not to conspire, Feed him with 
things to eat, and plenty to drink, Selim Bey would be 
faithful. Ab, the je eye of ee fal-stomacied ut 
‘This is 4 man to eat, and sleep, and suore, and part 
singe ard in bed, to dawdle s#lip-shod in the bed- ber, 
for coffee fifty times a day, and native beer by 
the g gallon; to sip and sip and smile aud then to nied 
again and #0 and #0 to his grave. The others are lean, 
Cassius’ make. Three of them were Egyptians, 
xomething of Arabi in their fucial mould ; the others are 
Dlack Soudanese. 

‘Wo made a grand display outside the camp, banners 
waving, the Zanziburi veterans like a wall of iron on 
each side of the pathway, the Manyuema auxiliaries with 
a rough-and-ready look about them, the natives of 
Kayalli and the neighbourhood in hundreds, banking 
the formation. 

: Through the contre of the twin lines the Pasha, small 
and wiry of figure, like a Professor of Jurisprudence in 
nppearanee, despite his fox and white clothes, wae 
escorted to the great square of the camp, and straight, 
to the Barzah, 

*'Thie kindly lotter was alter the Chosterfold style 40 commended 


hy Me Taphoon, hoes starp, wits had ad poreatved the Pashe's extremely 





ADDN TO IKWEL OVFIOKIS AT KAVALIM, 


REBEL OFFICERS AT THE GRAND DIVAN, WL 


The officers, in brand new uniforms, rarely aired, 1949, 
evidently created a great sensation, — The natives Fes 1 
ked with guping pe “alt 


At the house, the Pasha formally introduced 
these officers, We mutually saluted, ‘e enquired 
anxiously about cach other's healths, and ex our- 
selves mutually gratified that there was no fear of con= 
sumption, diabetes, or dysentery troubling ua, and that 

ibly, without fear of these ailments, we might meet 
on the ‘morrow ut a grind divan, whereat each one 
would be pleased to express his heart's secret desire. 

February 18th—The grand divan was held to-day. 
Each person present was arrayed in hie best uniform, 
After an interchange of elegant compliments and coffes 
had been served, the Pasha was requested to be 
enough to enquire of the deputation if they would bo 
pleased to state their errand, or whether they would 
prefer that I should disclose the object of this gathering 

twenty lands near the shores of their Lake. 

They expressed through the Pasha, who is admirable 
axa trapalator, and who has the art of softening any 
rigour of speech that a plain Anglo-Saxon might 
naturally use, that they would he greatly gratified to 
hear me first, 

Well, I said, open your cara that the words of trath 
may enter. The English people, hearing from your late 
guest, Dr, Junker, that you were in sore distress here, 
snd sadly in need of ammunition to defend yourselves 

inst the infidels and the followers of ‘the false 
prophet, have collected money, which they entrusted to 
me to purchase ammunition, and to convey it to you for 
eer But ax T was going through Egypt, the 
ive wked me to sty to you, if you so desired you 
might accompany us, but that if you elected to stay 
here, you wore free to act as you thonght bests i yon 
chose the latter, he disclaimed all intention of forcing 
you in any manner. Therefore you will please consult 
tere wishes entirely, et speak whatever lies 

in your hearts. 


ili A 











r =a 


12 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


After the Pasha had translated there was » general 
res murmur of “ Khweis ". 
Kevllt® “Then Selim Bey, the superior officer, said— 
“The Khedive is most gracious and kind, We arm 
His Highnoss’s most devoted and loyal subjects. We 
cannot wish to atay here, We hail from Cairo, and we 
desire nothing better than to visit the Iand of our 
breeding agnin, Kar be it from us to wish to stay here. 
What gain can be obtained here? We are officers and 
soldiers of His Highness. He has but to command, and 
we will obey. ‘Those who choose to live among the 
pagans here will do so. If they are left behind, it ix 
their own fault. We have deputed by our 
brothers and friends at Wadelai to ask you to give us 
only time to embark our families, #o that we may 
awsemble together in your camp, and start for home.” 
They then produced the Dlowitg document, the 
translation of which is as follows :-— 


“fo Mis Eexcollency the Knvoy of our Groat Government, Mr. Stanley. 


our 
ly nugmented, aud therefore 


Wallelai, 
Matcuk Shorecf, Lioutonant.  Aliel Kurdi, _Liouteaant, 
" ‘Ahmed Sultin 





Noor Abd ol bwin ” 
Mustapha Abmod Full of Mula Hakbit 
‘Halid Atallah =) Dig ol Bist Abdalinh 5 
Sid Hamed ‘Sald Toewhim 
Mural Sudan + Humoin Mohumed, Captain, 
‘Murjan Ndcon Murjan Trin 
Babah el Hunt ‘Mustapha el A 
Bakhiit Mohamed Kher Yusuf ox 
‘Maru Bakhit 
il Tesi Burov Sodan 
Abdn Abdallah Mawzal 
i Fadl of Mulla el Kinin 
jel ol Dinka — 5, 
Kadi Ahmed is 
Fakhit ergoot, Adjotdut Major. 
hit Borgoot, Adjutant Major. 
Bilal Dinkani ra 





T then said; “I bave heard with attention what you 
have spoken, 1 shall give you a written promise to the 


— 


ARRIVAL OF LIEUT. STAIRS. 155, 
effect that you are granted a sufficient time to proceed 


from here to Wadelai to collect your troops and embark Yt 
them with your families on board the steamers, It Sevlt 


takes five days for a steamer to proceed to Wadelai, and 
five days to return. I shall give you a reasonable time 
for this work, and if I see that you are really serious in 
your intentions, I shall be quite willing to extend the 
time in order that we may yp homeward in 
womfort.” 

Selim Bey and his officers answered simultancously, 
© We are serious in our intentions, and there is no occasion 
for delay.” To which I,wholly convinced, readily aasented 
The meeting terminated. An ox was presented to them 
and their followers for meat rations; and ten gallons of 
beer, with loads of sweet potatoes and bananas, were 

it ed to their quarters for their entertainment, 

t noon, Stairs’ column rolled into eamp with ies 
of wealth—Remington, Maxim and W3 : 
‘amununitic gunpowder, percussion caps, eso 
handkerchiefs, white ‘cottons, blue entch eloths, royal 
striped robes, beads of all colours, coils of bright wire, 
&e, ke, There were Zanziluris, Madis, Lados, Soudanese, 
Manyuema, Buregga, Bandusuma, dwarfs: and giants ; in 
all, 312 carriers, 

‘The stay on the Tturi River had benefited the men 
free" . As Surgeon Parke came in, 1 mentally blessed 

im, for to this fine display of convalescents he had 

ly contributed by his devotion. 

ie tei numbers now over 500 people, and the 
huta extend on each side of a iT open square, 200 
yards long by 60 wide, As a fire would he most de- 
Structive, a liberal space is preserved between exch hut, 

February 19th—1 have despatched Mr. William 
Bonny to the Nyanza with thirty rif_les and sixty-four 
Bavira natives, to bring up the baggage of Captain 
Casati, Signor Marco, the Greek, and Dr. Vita Hassan, 
T propose sending at intervals a company of men from 
our camp (which is on top of the platenu, 4,800 feet 
above the sea level) to the Lake shore, which ix about 
2,400 above the sea. ‘The journey is long and tiring 











= = a | 


106 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 





cae hay ae pare 
Te ai Rac Veer Raid Love tee i roe 





soon w shot«lrill or the treadmill as undertake 
it again, ny, of course, will be curious to see the 
Lake, ws this is his first visit. 


Called Selim Bey and his officers to the Barzah house, 
and delivered to him my message to the revolted officers 
at Wadelai, 


Sanaaate! 

‘The offieors, Selim Tey, and others, having requested Mr. st 
to-awalt tho arzival of thelr fonda from Wadelal Str: Stanley causes hie 
awewor to be written down in ordor to provont inixunderatandi 

Me Blaniay and his olicers having toon spectally woat by tho Khediva 
as 


juatorinl province for Cairo, cannot do othorwise than consent to give 
oo reasonably time an muy fe required for the awaunbling of all res 


It nga, however, be postivly undemtond that all men proposing to 
depart. eee ws fet ‘their own means of carriage for 
ena, thele failon, and baguage., No arception oan be rade 
excopt for the Pasha, Captain Casati, and the merchant named. 
‘Marco, the two last being atrangers and not in the Egyptinn wrview, 

‘uepoforo all cflccre and teu, proposing to dopass from this cowntey 

pall Me Btanloy wil bn cara to provide auch animale and porter ws 
need for the transport of thoir children and. goods, 

‘will also bo curwful not to burden thenvolves with wuperfaone 

articles; wrms, clothing, ammunition, cooking pots, und provisions being, 

the only necomarion needed. 

‘The Towree ammunition, whioh his boon brought from Heypt for the 
orvico of the Pasha und his people, ix of course at the disposition af the 
Pasha only, nccording to the orders of Hin Highnows the Khedtve. 

Mr, stanley winhos it to be distnetly undartor! that he fs reponuthio 
only. for finding the right road, and for provisioning all thy people 
according to the nature of the country. 

Mx. Stanlay, howover, holds hisalf in honour hound to do alt in hie 
power for tho comfort, gafoty, and wolfare of Kinin Pasha and hie people, 
sand f wsaiat iis friends in all things to tho best of his ability. 

‘On tho arrival of this anawar before tho officers at Wadotni, the 
officors roapomsible for the direction of Hhe people will do well to hold w 
general oyuneil, and consider thix anxwer before moving, Such people 
Barbera bets heats ths Arey Dare tha coum end means t2 
dopart from the equatorial nce will _prepiumn to procoodd to. thik 

ts dieated ty the Pasha. "Such people ws are dgubttal of hole 
wer und ability to mov, will act ax the auperiors of the party will 


















lo. 
‘Mr, Stanley, in the meanwhile, will form an advance camp to make 
ready for tho reception of such peoplo as are going out. 


At Kavalli'e, Ihexny M, Braxnrr, 
Februtry 19th, 1889, Commanding the Kolief Expedition, 


“ — 





MY MESSAGE TO THE REVOLTED OFFICERS 167 


February 21st,—Chief Katonza on the Lake shore 
has been sending messengers to the Luke camp to 
inform Captain Casati that Kabba Regga, King of 
Unyaro, had seized his cattle on the 19th inat,, and that 
his next objective was Casati’s cam 

followed may be ot from the following 
note just received from Mr, W. Bonny :— 


{At the with of Riguor Cutt T send ron thle note. ho te writing 
een 


is own views to the Pasha. He tates that Kabln Regs gnoral haw 
trong force somewhere near, and wishes me to remain another day that 
you Toinforee me T have agreed to send 0 messenger, but 

to romain, T have pointed out to him, that if there is Teanniot 
rial my men uni My men will with 


morning, Thave endow Be MY a en oh en 
. Thave endeavor 7 wi 

oi ng hoc arch de da emore  e Plata. ieiahin 
Regia'« people moet me on hope 40 make them learn that they 
Inve met sac of Stanley ton, 


The native courier arrived with this news at 2 Past, 
‘The Pasha and officers started immediately for the Lake 
cump with sixty rifles and sixty natives of the plateau, 
I do not think there will be any irraption of the 
Wanyoro into territory protected by us, but it is better 
to be on the safe side, 

February 22nd.—The Greek merchant Signor Marco, 
a fine manly-looking man much browned by tear heat, 
arrived to-day, escorted by Mr. Bonny, Marco has an 
eye to comfort I see. In hia train are domestics bearing 
See pigeons, bedsteads for himself und harem, heavy: 

“ersian carpets, ox-hide mats and enormous baskets, and, 
oh horror! he has actually brought three hundredwoight 
of stone to serve us grinding stones to reduce his grain 
to flour, as though the natives here could not lend us 
any number of grinding stones. He has brought, hesides, 
ten gullon pots to make beer, and to use as water vessels, 
Af all the refugees are similarly encumbered, we shall, 1 
fear, be employed here for months. That was a rash 

jae of mine to convey all their property. I will 
‘wait « little to note if all the officers, clerks, and soldiers 
expect me to regard stone as baggage. 


| 


Ws IN DARKEST APRICA, 


Feb. see ee our eels, named fee = 
impatient at ares ti Is recovery a 
now and. painful loos, ste hinelwitie Reniawced 
rifle to-day. Poor fellow, I remember him as a cheery, 
willing, and quick boy. 

The Pasha writes me that all is well at the Lake 


earn p. 

‘he, 24th—Sent twenty-five rifles, under head-man 
Wadi Khamis, to escort fifty of Mpinga’s natives as 
curries, 

1 have notified all the chiefs of the various tribes on 
the plateau that they must supply curriers varying from 
fifty to one hu each, according to their strength, 
to asaiat me in the transport of the basen of our guests. 
Eleven have consented to proceed to the Lake in rotation, 
provided I protect their people from the brutality of 
the strangers, who, they say, have been beating their 
people in the most cruel manner, and making them 
carry “stones” of too heavy a weight fora man, ‘This 
is the firat time I have heard of this, and will make 
inquiries immediately. 

Fh, 25th.—Captain Nelson, who escorted the Pasha to 
the Lake the other day, brought in sixty loads of bag- 
gge, mostly belonging to the Pasha. T observe an 
immense number of articles that must necessurily be 
thrown away. There is an old Saratoga trunk, which 
was borne hy two men. I tried to lift one end of it, 
and from its weight I should say it contains stones 
or treasure. What a story that old trunk could tell 
since it left Cairo. How many poor natives has it 
killed? How much anguish has it caused? The Zan- 
zibaris smile grimly at the preposterously large size of 
he bexee they bave tovcary. They decare there are 
thousands of such cumbrons articles yet, and that they 
will be kept here for ten years. The square is littered 
with sea-chests and clumsy coffin-like coffers, the ten- 
Ion jars increase in number, and the baskets look 
igger and ominously heavy. 

le man, an Egyptian, named Achinet Effendi, who. 
cume up, is about fifty-five years old, bent, thin, feeble, 


4 ie 


A CONFEDERACY FORMED. 18 
and sick. He is unable to ride a donkey without Se 


assistance. cane 
I foresee a terrible mortality, if only sick wnd feeble 
men and women propose to undertake the 1,400 miles 
journey to the sea, Already a large number of small 
children, from one to eight’ years old, have arrived. 

‘These will have to be carried, By whom? 

A Soudanese woman gave birth to a ehild on the 
roud. Another child is so ill that it cannot survive long. 

Lieut, Stairs wos despatched with Chief Mwité to 
atir up his refractory people, who for the last four days 
have sent us no food, 

We have formed « confederacy on the plateau, em- 
Tracing all the region from the Ituri River to the 
Nyanza. For protection granted them ngainst marand~ 
ing Balegga of the mountains and the Warasura of 
Kabba , the chiefs agree to supply us with con- 
tributions of grain and cattle, and to surrender the 

ment of the country into my hands, to raive 

‘hting men whenever ordered, and to assist me in 
invading Unyoro should retaliation for invasion of their 
soil by the Warasura render it necessary. 

7. 267h.—An ally of Kaba Regn vas attacked this 
morning, and 125 head of cattle were captured. Much 
ey has been done by this man, and already he 
ocenpies the conntry between here and. the Pasba's 
province, and Kabba Rega relied on him for assistance 
when the grand struggle between him and the Pasha 
should begin, Communication is made across the Lake 
in canoes, and Kabba is well informed of our 
movements When we retire from here we shall have 
to reckon with Kubba Rega. He possesses 1,500 guns, 
mostly rifles and double-barrelled shot 8, Jocelyn 
and » Sharp, Henry-Martini, and Snider rifles, and 
carbines, — Havi undertaken the serious work of 
protecting these hundreds of refugees to the sea, T 
‘shall enter on the affair with a clear conscience. We 
will not seck a struggle; the opposing forces are not 
matched, but there is only one road, and that runs 
through « portion of Unyore, 


(am ill 


| 


190 IN DARKEST AFRICA, 


asap. = Feb, 27¢th—Our cattle were driven to pasture this 
27 morning, but the calves were most intractable, and 
created t fun and not a little trouble. We hnve 
‘milk and meat for our sick now, 
T hear that Selim Bey and the Egyptian officers de- 
peat on the 26th inst. by the steamers Khedive and 
Yyanza, which brought to the Lake camp from Mawa a 
large cargo of baggage and severul score of fresh 
refiy 


ain, Pasha reached camp this morning from the 
Lake, He was accompanied by his daughter, a little 
girl of six years old, named Ferida, the offspring of uu 
‘Abyssinian woman. ‘She is extremely pretty, with large, 
beantiful black eyes. 

104 carriers conveyed the Pasha’s uggage and stores 
of flour, millet, sesamum, honey, and salt. 

‘The head man, Wadi Khamis, who escorted this caravan, 
reports that one of Selim Bey's officers stole a Reming- 
ton rifle and took it with him. his is odd. If these 
people meditate returning here they should be aware 
that theft of arms is severely punished. 

The Pasha informs me that another mail arrived from 
Wadelai on the 25th, and that an official letter was 
handed to Selim Bey from the rebel officers headed by 
Fadl-el-Mulla, annowneing to him that he was deposed 
from his position as Chief Commander of the Troops, 
and that he, the Pasha and Casati, were sentenced to 
death by court-martial. Captain Fadl-el-Mulla has 
panies himeelf on assuming authority to the rank of 

y or Colonel, This i quite in Jack Cade's style. We 
must now call him Fudl-el-Mulla Bey. 

Feb, 28th,—Sent fifty rifles and seventy-two natives: 
‘of the Wabinasi and Ruguji tribes under Lieut. Stairs 
to the Lake camp to escort another contingent of 
re! and convey baggage up to the plateau. 

farch 1st.—The Pasha, with his own consent, and 
indeed on his own proposul, has been appointed natur- 
aliat and meteorologist to the Expedition. He has ac- 
cordingly received one aneroid, one max. and min. 
thermometer, one Bath thermometer, one standard 








THE PASHA AS NATURALIST, BTC. 161 


thermometer, two boiling-point thermometers, which, 
added to his own instruments, equip him completely. 


‘The Pasha is in his proper element as naturalist and 
ist. He is of the school of Schweinfurth and. 

Holub. His love of science borders on fanaticism. I 
have attempted to discover during our daily chats 
whether he was Christian or Moslem, Jew or Pagan, 
and [ rather suspect that he is nothing more than a 
Materialist. Who can say why votaries of science, 
though eminently kindly in their social relations, are 80 
angular of character? In my analysis of the scientific 
nature I am constrained to associate with it, as compared 
with that of men who are more Christians than seientists, 
a eertain hardness, or rather indelicney of feeling. ‘They 
strike me aa being somewhat, Sats and capa 
ble of only cold. friendshi yanaiioes to the 
warmer human feelin; may best express what 1 
mean by swying that | think they are more apt to feel 
an affection for one’s bleached skull and frame of 
unsightly bones, than for what is divine within « man, 
Tf one tulke about the inner beauty, which to some of us 
is the only beauty worth anything, they ure apt toyawn, 
and to return an apologetic and compassionate smile. 
They seem to wish you to infer that they have explored 
the body throngh and through, and that it ix waste of 
time to discuss what only exists in the imagination, 

Sent seventy-two natives of Mpigwa’s tribe under 
twelve Zanzibaris to Lake camp for baggage, 
~ Up to date 514 loads of baggage have been conveyed 
from the Lake shore to our camp on the plateau, 

Mareh 2nd.—Dr. Vita Hassan, of Tunis, has arrived 
in charge of Lieut. Stairs, with 122 carriers. 

March 3ril.—Mr, Bonny descended to the Nyanza to~ 
ees ont fifty-two Zanzibaris and forty natives af the 

of Malai and Mabisé. 


* ‘The Pusha has, however, severely refined from communicating: 
anything, 
vou, 1 u 


(am 














Bat, Stak, Us 
Udos, Cea, Usama, Uny Ri Beviray 


Seer aa 





besides flour, pease potatoes, 
i ead measure, 
ion of food in the 


arrived wil creat bee 
came up with Cupt. Casati, to 
ae 


Bonny 4j this morning with 
ope ies bas bale.” Tis eat 
the Major meee the 2nd Battalion, Awash 
Id I this monstrous pile belongs to him: 
Ninety-four loads represent a weight of 2} tons. 
ir. Mounteney Jephson started for the Nyanza this 
ene with forty-two Zanzibaris and Manyacma. 
the six weeks we have been here three meu 





ne 













is Expedition posteasns the rarest doctor in the 

world. No country in Europe can produce his equal in 
my opinion. ‘There may be many more learner! perhaps, 
more skilful, oller, or younyer, as the case may be, bat 

the best af them have somet to lean from oar 
a He is such a combination of sweetties and 
So unostentatious, 0 genuinely unobtrus 

sive. soni. a all boand to hin with cords ioe We 
have seen him do so much out of pure love for 






OCR DOCTOR 168 


“cases,” that human nature becomes ennobled by this 1480, 
He is tenderness itself, He has saved ‘many Mah 5: 
fives by his devoted nursing. We noo him each day at = 
8 am, aud 5 rat, with his selecteat circle of “sick” 
around him. None with tender stomach dare approach 
it, He sits in the centre as though it were a rare per- 
fame. The sloughing ulcers are exposed to view, some 
fearful to behold, and presenting a spectacle of horror, The 
doctor amiles and sweetly sniffé the tainted air, handles 
the swollen limbs, cleanses them from ee pours 
the soothing lotion, cheens the sufferers, binds up the 
inful wounds, and sends the patient away with o 
Fopefal and gratified look. May the indy angels 
record this nobleness and obliterate all else. 1 greatly 
honour what is divine in man. This gift of gentleness 
and exquisite sensibility appeal to the dullest. At 
Abu-Klea our doctor was great; the wounded had 
cause to bless him; on the m sward of Kavalli, 
daily ministering to these suflering blacks, unknowing 
sabe whether any aariee hin, our dovtor 
still. 





was 

farch Gth,—Some chimpanzees have been discovered 
ina grove which fills a deep hollow in the Baregga 
Hills. The Pasha has shown me a carefully pre] 
akull of one which he procured near Mawa. “It exactly 
resembles one I oat up at Addiguhha, a vi 
between the two branches of the Ihura River, The 
chimpanzee is the “soko” of Livingstone, though he 
grows to un unusual size in the Congo forest. 

During the few days we have been here the Pasha 
has been indefatigable in adding to his collection of 
birds, larks, thrushes, finches, bee-eaters, plantain 
eaters, sunbirds, &e,, &e. 

‘The Pasha appears to be extraordinaril lappy in this 
~ocation of “collecting.” Ihave ordered the Zanzihuris 
to carry every strange insect, bird, and reptile to him. 
Even vermin do not ape amiss to him, We are 
rewarded by seeing him wey 

Bach morning his clerk Rajab roams wround to murder 
every winged feel of the air, and every victim of his 


a = 





det I¥ DARKEST APRICA. 


aie Be bee Der poe ee ee 
‘patting the object he coolly gives the to skit 
it Raat eres eent suspended, with a stafting of 
cotton within, to be in a day or two packed up as a 
treasure for the British Museum ! 

‘These “collectors” strike me as being a rare race. 
Schweinfurth boiled the heads of the slain in Monbuttu 
‘once to prepare the skulls for a Berlin museum, Emin 
Pasha Dente to do the sume should we have a brush 
with ‘unyoro, 1 suggested to him that the idea 
was shocking; that possibly the Zunziburis might object 
to it. He smiled: “ All for science.” 

This trait in the scientific man casts some light upon 
a mystery. I have been attempting to discover the 
reasons why we two, he and I, differ in our judgments of 
his men, We have some dwarfs in the camp. ‘The 
Pasha wished to measure their skulla; 1 devoted my 
observations to their inner nature. He proceeded to fold. 
his tapo round tho cireumforence of the chest ; 1 wished 
to study the face. The Pasha wondered at the feel of the 
body ; I marvelled at the quick play of the feclings as 
revealed in lightning movements of the facial muscles, 
The Pasha admired the breadth of the frontal bone; * I 

“Lier or Mearcxmnvers races ox Waxnbrrr riawmes meLowanse 
0 Mu, Braxuey's Exveperion, 
Rime of the Tadividunm {| TRYAl | pA eieL | A oman.) A hoy. 
‘Hoight from vortex to the 





1-800. m. 1-210 m. 1/865 m, 1-280 m. 





ht from shoulder >) 1-6 m, | 102m, 1-110 m, 1-000.m 

Height from navel.) O65 an. OF xm. 0-785 an. 0-970 mm 
‘Tangth of arm from shoulder | 

‘idal O°TO7T ma. | O°STL mm. 0580 a, |0°D40 an 


joukder as 0/820 mm. 0-304 m. 0-295 mn, |0°960 an, 
Girouanference bolow nipples O°TI0 m. | 0°660-m, 0-710 m, |0°G40 m, 
Circumference under ari | 
Dike mee | 0°79 mm, 0°600-m. 0°710 me. '0-60 rm, 


200 m1, | 176mm. 160 tom, 175 mm, 





moter of head... 147 am. | 150 mm, 145 ma. 140 mm. 
‘Broadlth of tho nove ma, 65mm. | 65 aan. 
Girswinference of skull) 62K mm. 510 sam. | 510 sux. 
‘Langth of foot 220: mm, 212 rm, | 190 mu. 


eg ‘Omm, 
Bodies covered with stiffish, grey, short hair —Dw. Eyeim. 


4 ~ ' 





MEASUREMENTS OF TIE PIGMIES, 167 


studied the tones of the voice, and watehed how beauti- 1680, 
fully a alight flash of the cye coincided with the slightest 
twitch of a lip. The Pasha might know to a grain 
what the body of the pigmy weighed, but I only cared: 
to know what the inner capacity was. 

And this is the reason the Pasha and T differ ahout 
the charmcters of his men. He knows their names, their 
families, their tribes, their customs ; and little as I have 
‘been with them, I think I know their natures. 
Pasha says they are faithful; [ declare they are false. 
He believes that the day he lenves Kavalli they will all 
follow him to a man; I imagine he will be wofully 
deceived, He aft that he bas known them for 
thirteen years, and he ought to know better than 1 who 
have not known them as many weeks. Very well, let it 
be so. Time will decide. Nevertheless, these discus- 
sions make the days at Kavalli pass smoothly, for the 
Pasha ia an accomplished conversational 

March 7t,—Mr. Mounteney Jephson arrived from the 
Lake shore with Mohammed Emin and family, an Egyp- 
tian widow, and four orphan children, 

Sur, Parke was permitted a holiday, to be devoted 
to k ye to the Nyanza fifty-two Zanzibaris, thirty. 
natives, and nineteen Manyuema for conveyance of 


Ingenge here. 
iret 8¢h,—Uledi, the hero of old days, was deepatched. 
with twenty-one carriers to carry loads from the take to 


H 





6 camp. 
March 9th,—Surgeon Parke has returned with his 
caravan, “ Well, doctor,” said 1, “how did you like 
your holiday 2” He smiled, “It may be agreeable as 
a change, but it is fearful work. I see that the beat 
men are pulled down by that steep long climb up the 
plateau BS T hear a great deal of grumbling.” 
“Tam aware,” | replied, “of what is going on, But 
what can we dot ese people are our guests, We 
are bound to help them os ctl as possible. We indeed 
came here for that purpose. J wish, however, they 
would leave those stones behind, for even the carriers 
Jaugh at the absurd idea of carrying an 801b, rock such 


— se 


168 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


| 1880 on fearful height, However, when the Zanzibaris are 
Ah tined of it, they will let me know in some way, Mean- 
time, let_us see to how far n point they will push our 


rience.” 

March 10th—This morning as the Zanzibaris mus- 
tered for the detail to be picked out for the usual 
caravan to the Nyanza, they demanded to speak to me. 
The speaker was applauded every few minutes by the 
coxpanies ‘as they stood under their respective officers. 

“Sir,” said he, “ we are tired of this work of carryin; 
rocks, and great double-load boxes, and wooden hed- 
ateads, If we did not think it were a waste of labour 
we would not speak, Whither can they take the rub- 
hish we have been obliged to carry up here? Will any 
one man undertake to curry one of those huge coffins 
day's march through the bush? The strongest man in 
the world would be killed under it, For whom are we 
doing it? For a set of thankless, heartless people, who 
profess God with their lips, und know nothing of Him 
‘or of the prophet Mohammed—blessed be his name! 
Besides, what do they think of us? They call us ahid 
slaves, They think that any one of them can lick ten 
of us. They say that some day they will take our rif_es 
from us, and make us their slaves. We know enongh 
Arabic to know what they moan, bad as their slang 
Arabic is, We have come to ask you how long this is 
to last? If you mean to kill us, who were saved out of 
the forest, with this ungrateful work, plense tell ns. We 
are your servants, and we must do your bidding.” 

“Tt is well,” I replied, “1 have heard your apeech. 
1 knew you would come to this, But you must have 
some faith in me. Trust tome. Go on to the Nyanza 
to-day, and when yon return | will explain farther.” 

Captain Nelson was appointed leader of the caravan 
of 81 Zanzibaris, Soudanese, and Manyuema, and marched 
away with them. 

Yobserved that the poople declined their rations for 
the journey, and that they were unmistakably discon- 
tented and in an Fearing trouble, I sent 
messengers after Captain Nelson to aend me the two who: 








 — 


THE ZANZIBARIS AND THR DAGGAGE. 169 


cipals under back to Re 1880, 
The Captain on receipt of the commanded the ‘aren 10 





Soudanese to take them, upon whiek the fifty Zanziburia ““"* 


vet up aloud yell of defiance, and some eried, “Shoot 
Dieta alli sail ead es aka baat 

‘The Captain, however,was firm, and insisted on sending 
them to me, whereupon they said they would all return. 
to camp fo protect their friends, 

Seeing the caravan return, the signal to muster under 
arms was given, and the companies were drawn up in 
position to prevent any sudden manaayre, 

The malcontent were formed in line in the centre, 
and on looking ut them I saw that little was needed to 
provoke strife. [ xympathised with them secretly, but 
could not overlook such « serion breach of discipline, 

“ Now, my men,” I said, “obey me at once, and to 
at saa ‘He ep alates is oe your ears 
ane sharp. ‘Ground arms!’ Trwas done promptly. 
* Retire four to the rear!’ They withdrew ate 
‘Now, Captain Staizs, march your company to the front, 
and take ion of the rifles,” which was done 

Captain Nelson was then ordered to make his report ax 
to the cause of the caravan's return. He pointed out 
the concerned in the outbreak, and these who 
had cried, “Shoot them all, and let us run to Mazam~ 
honi.” These were at once seized and punished. ‘The 

‘ingleaders were tied to the flaz-atafl. The caravan was 
in entrusted to Captain Nelson, but without arma, 
and was marched away to its duty. 

Near sunset, Hassan Bakari having absented aoe 
withont permission, was lightly punished with a cane 
the captain of his company, On being released, he 
usd in a furious temper to his hut, vowing he would 
shoot himself He was caught in the act of preparing 
his rifle for the deod. Five men were required to re- 
strain him. Hearing the news, I proceeded to the scene, 
and gently asked the reason of this outburst. He de- 
claimed against: the shame which had been put on hina, 

was a freeman of good family and was not uccus- 
tomed to be struck like a slave, Remarks appropriate 


(am 7 


170 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


ass. to his wounded feelings were addressed to him, to which 
| Weill he gratefully responded. His rifle was restored to him 
with a smile. did not nse it. 

Mareh \ith—Forty-one natives descended to the 
Nyanza to-day for more These make w total 
of 928 men sent down for the same purpose up to date, 

March 120h,—* Three O'clock,” the hunter, took a 
caravan to the Nyanza, consisting of thirty-four Zan- 
zibaris and twenty-five natives, 

March 1iith—Lieut. Stairs, RE, took down to the 
Lake sixty-three Zauzibaris and Manyuema, 

The forty-one natives who left on the 11th inst. 
returned to-day, bringing with them absolute rabbish— 
wooden bedsteads, twenty gallon copper pots, and some 
more flat, rocks, which the Soudanese call grinding 
stones. They complained that when they objected to 
carry these heavy, uselew weights they were cruelly 
beat 








As I have informed the Pasha several times that T 
cannot allow such rubbish to be earried, and as the 
Pasha has written to that effect to Osman Lutif Effendi, 
the commander of the Lake shore camp, and his orders 
are not obeyed, I shall presently have to stop this cruel 


work, 

March 14th—Twenty-one of the Balegga have offered 
their services, and have been sent down to the Lake to 
carry baggage. Total loads up to date, 1,037, 

T consider this carrier work, to which I have subjected 
myself, officers, and men, as an essential part of my 
duty to my guests. They may not be deserving of this 
sacrifice on our part, but that makes no difference. 
What I regret is that such severe labour should be 
incurred uselessly, If any one of them were to express 
m concern that we were put to so much trouble, most of 
us would regard it as some compensation. But I have 
heard nothing which would lead me to helieve that they 
rey this assistance as anything more than their due. 

see the Egyptian officers congregating in special 
and select groups each day, seated on their mats, smoking 
cigarettes, and discussing our absolute slavishness, They 


an 





CLIMBING THE PLATRAG-SLOMES. 


THE BGYPTIAN OFFICERS, 178 


have an idea that any one of them is better than ten _ 1980, 

Zanzibaris, but I have not seen uny ten of them that “> 

could be so useful in Afriea as one Zanzibari. tol 
March 15th,—Lieut, Stairs appeared with his caravan 

to-day. He reports that there are 100 people still at 

the Nyanzn Camp, with an immense pile of baggage of 

the usual useless kind just arrived from Mswa station, 











SMUKKI AGHA, COMMANDANT OF ausWa HEATION, 


Shukri Agha, commandant of Mawa, has also arrived. 
At an interview with him, in the presence of the Pasha, 
I informed him in plain terms that if he expected to 
retire to the coast he would have to set about it imme+ 
diately, I told him that 1 had been amazed at many 
things since my arrival the third time at the Lake, but 


— 


| 14 IN DARKEST AFRICA, 


1480. the most wonderful thing of all was the utter disregard 

wel? to instructions and orders manifested by everybody. 

In May last, ten months ago, they had all been informed 

of the canse of our coming. ‘They had promised to he 

ready, and now he, Shukn’ Agha, had come to us to ask 

tus for instructions, just as though he had never heard 

anything of the tatter, [f he, a commandant, of a 

station, and commander of troops, appeared to be so 

slow to comprehend, how ever was it possible to convey 

it into the sense of the Soudanese soldier, All I had to 

say now was, that unless he, Shukri Agha, pnid atten- 

tion to what I said, he would be left behind to take the 
‘consequences. 

Ah,” says Shukei, “Twill go back to Mswa, and the 
very next day I shall embark the women und children 
on the steamers, and I shall march with our cattle 
throngh Melindwa overland, and we shall all be here in 
seven days.” 

“T shall expect you on the tenth day from this, with 
your families, soldiers, and cattle.” 

The Pasha said to me in the evening, “ Shukri Agha 
hws given me his solemn promise that he will obey the 
orders I have given him to depart from Mswa at once.” 

“Did you write them firmly, Pasha, in such a manner 
that there can be no doubt Td 





ha! He will be 
jis soldiers with 






jim. 

March 16th—Shukri Agha descended to the Nyanza 
to-day ; also 108 carriers, natives, for baggage. 

March 17th. —V'wenty-nine natives of Malai’s tribe, 
and sixteen natives of Bugombi, have been sent to the 
Nyanza Camp. ‘Total, 1,190 carriers up to date. 

‘The Pasha proceeded ‘this morning to the Barogga 
Hills for « picnic, and to inerease his ornithological and 
entomologival collections. A goat was taken up also to 
Deslanghtered for the Innch, Lieut. Stairs, Mx. Jephson, 
Captain Nelson, Surgeon Parke, and Mr. Bonny have 





i. 


THE BAREGOA HILLS. 175 


up with quite a following to encourage him to do 1s89, 
is best and ere company. wrest 
Yesterday Jephson and 1 had examined the summits S*ll* 
fos fea suring eat et high ate ales ght 
tree ferns, standing eight feet high, with s eight 
inches in diameter. vi also brought with us a 
neple lowering heliotropes, aloes, and rock ferns for the 
i All this has inspired him with « desire to inves- 
ite the flora for himself. 
hills have an altitude varying from 5,400 to 
5,600 feet above the sea. The folds and hollows between 
these hills are here and there somewhat picturesque, 
though on account of late grass burnin: ey are not 
ab their best just now. Hach of the hollows has its own 
clear water rillet, and along their courses are boos, 
tree ferns, small palms, and bush, much of which is in 
flower, From the lively singing of the birds I heard 
yesterday, it was thought likely this insatiable collector 
might be able to add to his store of stuffed giant-larka, 
thrushes, bee-eaters, sun-birds, large pigeons, ke, Only 
four specimens were obtained, und the Pasha is not 


happy roe FARR Ee 

# bowl-like basin, rimmed around by ragged and 
ure rocks, I saw a level terrace a mile and a half long 
by a mile wide, green as a tennis lawn. Round about 
the foot of this terrace rn n clear rivulet, through a 
thick bank of woods, the tops of which just came to the 
level of the terrace, It has been the nicest site for a 
mission or « community of white men that T have seen 
for u long time. The altitude was 5,00 feet above the 
sea. Krom the erest of the rocky hills encircling it we 
may obtain a view an 8,000 aquare miles of one of 
the most gloriously beautiful lands in the world, Pisgah, 
sixty miles westward, dominates all eminences and 
‘i in the direction of the forest world; Rowenzori, 
18,000 to 19,000, white with perpetual suow, eighty 
miles off, bounds the view south; to the east the eye 
looks far over the country of Unyoro ; and north-east lies 
the length of the Albert Nyunza, ‘On the terrace the 
picnic was held. 


| ante, 
Raval’. 


16 IN DARKEST ALHICA, 


March 18th.—The redoubtable Rudimi, chief of Usiri, 
has at last joined our confederacy. Besides seven head 
of cattle, seven gouts, and an ample store of millet 
flour oe aweet potatoes, he brought me thirty-one 
carriers, They were immediately sent to the Lake shore 


cura] 

We con now trust these natives to handle any pro- 
perty unguarded. Altogether fifteen chiefs have sub- 
mitted to our stipulation that they shall cease fightin, 
with one another; that they shall submit all causes o! 
complaint to us, and agree to our decisions, The result 
is that the Wavira shake hands with the Wasiri, the 
Balegga, and the Wahuma. The cases are frequently 
cos. but 30 far our decisions have given satis- 


The Ce consists of 339 huts and five tents, 
exclusive of Kavalli’s village, on the southern side of 
which our town has grown, There are sometimes as 
many as 2,000 people in it. 

farch 21st.—The natives of Melindwa, having made 
a descent upon Ruguji’s, one of our Wahuma allies, and 
captured forty head of hia cattle, Lieut, Stair’ and 
Mr. Jephson were deapatehed with Companies 1 and 2, 
und returned with $10 head of cattle. Ruguji recognised 
his cattle and reecived them. The Wahuma are all 
herdsmen and shepherds, The Wavira devote them- 
selves to agriculcure. 

March 22nd.—Vhe Pasha, with Mr. Mareo, paid a visit 
to Mpigwa, chief of Nyamsassi, and were well received, 
returning with lunge gilts of food, 

March 23rd.—Contributions of provisions have come 
in from many chiefs to-day aa an expression of gratitude 
for the retaliatory raid on Melindwa, 

March 26th.—Yesterday afternoon the — steamer 
Nyanza came in with the mails from Wadelai, and 
carriers came in thia morning with them, 

Selim Bey writes from Wadelai to the Pasha that he 
is enre all the rebels will follow him, and that they may 

expected at our camp. The Pasha, beaming with joy, 
came to me and imparted this news, and said, “ What 





ee 


SELIM BEY AND SHUKRI AQUA. hig 


did I tell you? You see I was right? { wus sure they 
would all come.” 

Let ua see what this good news amounts to. 

Selim Bey left our camp on the 26th February with a 
promise that Lshould wait “ «reasonable time.” “Tho 
the distance is only five days, we will give him eight 
days. He arrives at Wadelai on the ath March, He 

ised solemnly to begin embarking as soon as possible, 

‘e will t him five days for this, considering that 
such have no idea of time, and eight days for 
the voyage from Wadelai to our Luke say He 
should then have arrived on the 17th inst. Ie has not 
appeared yet, and in his letters to the Pasha he only 
states that his intentions are what they were on the 
26th February Inst, viz., to start. 

On the 14th of March Shukri Agha, commandant of 
Mawa, eat to obtain instruction from the Pasha, 
and on 17th Shukri Agha was back again at Mswa 
station, having received an order to abandon that station 
and to be here on the 27th. We are now told that 
Shukri Agha is still at Mawa, and Selim Bey still at 
Wadelai, and that every order issued by the Pasha has 
been Bevo and every promise broken. 

I replied to the Pasha that I was only aware of our 
folly in relying on any promise made by such peopl 
that neither Selim Bey nor probably Shukri Agha had 
any intention of accompanying us anywhere. Days hi 
passed into weeks, and weeks had grown into months, 
ree years would doubtless elapse before we should leave: 





Cay 

“T must beg leave, Pasha, to impress on you that, 
besides my duty to you and to your people, I have a 
duty to perform to the Relief Committee. Every month 
1 stay in Africa costa aboun £400. I have a duty to 
perform to my officers, They have their careers in the 
army to think of—their leave of absence has long ago 
‘Then we must think of the Zanzibaris, They 
will want to return to their homes; they are already 
Jha oot Tf we had only some proof that 
Solim Bey and his men had any real intention of leaving 

you. 1, 12 


oa 


178 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


sas. Africa, and would furnish this proof by scoding acouple 
Moreh 2. of eompanies of soldiers, and I could see that the soldiers 
were under control, there would be no difficulty in 
staying some months more, But if you think that from 
the Ist of May, 1888, to the end of March, 1889, are 
eleven months, and that we haye been only able to get 
about forty officers and clerks and their families, and 
that the baggage of theae has required all the carriers 
on this plateau one month to carry it two days’ march, 
you will perceive that I have no reason to share in your 


i pray you also to remember, that 1 have been at 
) pains to get at the correct state of mind which 

ose officers at Wadelai are in. I have been told most 
curious things. 28 Awash Effendi, of the 2nd Bat- 
talion, Osman Latif Effendi, Mohamed the engineer, 
have told me secretly that neither Selim Bey or Fadl-el- 
Mulla Bey will leave for Bgypt. ‘The former may per- 
ape come as far as hore and settle in this district. But 
whatever the Wadelai officers may profess to be desirous 
of doing, I have been warned that I must be on my 
nd. Nobody places any faith in them except your- 
self While believing that you may perhaps be right 
after all, you must admit that T have the best of reasons 
for doubting their good intentions. ‘They have revolted 
three times against you. ‘They captured Mr. Jephson, 
and in menacing him with rifles they insulted me. They 
have made ip known widely enough that they intended 
to capture me on my return here, But, Pasha, let me 
tell you this much: it is not in the power of all the 


troops of the province to capture me, and before they 
arrive within rifle-shot of this camp, every officer will be 
in my power,” 


“ But what answer shall I give them?” asked the 


"asl 

“You had better hear it from the officers yourself. 
Come, without saying word to them. I will call them 
here and ask them in your presence, because they are 
involved in the question a8 much as I am myself.” 

ve Very well,” he replied. 


ADDRESS TO MY OFFICERS. 179 
(eee eee summon the officers, Stains, 
. Be Jey ie and Parke, and when they were seated 





of April, 
amoung thas fact in anmistakabe tras, 
kei Agha is stil at Dawn, bavi 
yuna Gunp; yot he aud 


‘wiueth id Ey, ares 

‘Major Darttolot 90 fir distant in the rear, wo conld not walt at the 

i decison a that inght powibly require month: ¢ would 

be mors profitable to niek and amiat the rear column, and by the time 
‘we arrived here again, those willing to go to Egypt would be probably 
impatient to start, We, therelam, leaving Mr. Jephson to convyy our 
to the Pashas troops, rtrd to the forest exion for the rear 

jn nine months were back again on tho N; an But 
invert iy rt 


a 


1 be in siuninent anger 
ubola, und at anothor time i in danger of being 


waa 


Kavalll's 


i 


IN DARKEST AFRICA, 


his bodstend and takon to the interior of Makkarukn country. 
current tak jn tho roving that we were only a party ot 
‘and adventurers, that the letters of the Kledive aud ui 
were forgeries, consvted hy tho vile Chatang, Stanley and 
sian hy Mobanntiod Kini Pasha, "89 elated avo. the rebels 
‘their bloodless viotory_ovor the Pasba and Mr. Jepbaon, that 
have confidently Doasual of their urpose to eatrap ane ty ajo 
pour txt, of yy aml ble a ‘oan 
Wills bo perth. We need not dwell on the tygeatitude 
‘on thelr intonse iguorusico and wil natires, but Yow 
‘mind tho fucts to guide. yon to a, eksar soinion. 
‘wo volnntarad for thin work that we should be 


sCUETTGECE 
dee 


if 
4 
in 
ig 











iter 


wa ‘and for throe amonthy was i clove prisoner, 1 am. 


el 

‘ave waitod noaely twolva months to obtain the fow hundreds of 

‘men, women, and children in this camp, Ax t promiaed Selim, 

his olficers that I would ive w reasonable time, Selim Bey and. 

repeal poe to ne there khould be no delay.” The 
ree 


f 


rowly fh 200, which. extended their time to fort 
lant for three round voyages for each steamer. ‘Tho 
today iv not thot Soli Boy Is clove to hore, but that ho 
from Wadolai yot. 
tion to his own fronts, who aro sald to be Joyal and obelioot 
to him, he bring» the ton robo! ofileors, and somo xix hundred or evan 
Wandrod poldiers, their faction, 
““Remombering the three revolta which these wime officers have 
Jnspird, thelr prononnced intentions nennst this Exposition, thle plots 
vountorplota, the lif of conxpiracy and saniling: remchery ‘thoy have 
Jed, we may well pause to consider what object principally animaten 
them now—that from being ungovernibly robelliony against all con 
stituted wathority, they havo suddenly became obodient and loyal 
roliions of iv and his “Great Government." You must by 
aware that, exclusive of the thirty-one boxes of smmunition delivered to 
the Pasha by ux in May, 1888, the robels possess ammunition of the 
‘Provinoial Government oyual to twenty of our cases, We aro bound to 
eredit them with intolliganco enough to pareeive that stich a small 
supply would bo fired in an hourie fighting among «mony rifles, and 
What only a show of subsaission and apparent loyalty will ouxure mw 
further supply from ua, ‘Though the Pasha brightens up each time he 
oblains « plausible letter from these people, strangers Uke we axe may 
also bo forgiven for not roily truntiog ‘thon mon whom they havo 
such goo cause to eaistruat, Could wo have sono guaraito of koe 
faith, there conld bene objection todelivering to them all they required. 
that is, with tho permission of the Pasha, Can we be certain, however, 
that if'we admit thom anto thin camp ae good friends and loyal roliiens 
of Egypt, they will not rise up some night and possess themvelves of all 
tho niiunition,and 4 deprive ux of the power of returning to Zanzibar 
Tt would bo a vory eney mattor for them to do so, aftor they lnd aeqttired. 
the knowledge of tho rules of the eamp. With our minds fllod with 
‘Mr, Jophson’s extenordinary revelations of what hus been going on i, 
the Proviueo sins tho closing of the Nile route, bokoldiag tho Pusha 
hore tafe my sory ces, who waa lately suppowl to line several 
thousands of people under him, but now without any important following, 
and boariayg in mind the ‘cajoling * and * wiles’ by which we wero to bo 


au 
ue 

















NOTICES TO THE REBEL OFFICERS. 181 


Serra as oa ea ng a pate Ok eo oh 


ixod, that ts, the L0th of April 


The officers one after another replied in the negative, ““™ 

“There, Pasha,” I said, Pi have yournanswer, We 
march on the 10th of Aj 

The Pasha then ask: it we could “ in our conscience 
Stan him of having abandoned his 

had not arrived by the 10th of A 
Most ly.” 
tae 27th,—The couriers have left to embark for 


Wadeiai, 
‘They bore the following = 


Notion to Salim Hey and tho Rabel Oftlnrs, 
‘Garmp at Kavalli, 
March 26¢h, 1889. 
* Salaamé,—Tho Comuander of tho Reliot Expedition having promieed 
fognnt estesaees ei tes Yon aig ot sch people a this camp oy 
deo to ait the countey, otic Bia 
‘fiers tnt thin ds the Git day kine they parted trom tho Nyana 


wR nana tine en 
‘ime lo has expired 
* Howover-ae the Pasha has rejeatod atansion of tine, i ix hereby 
otited to all congerned fat he ition will make further ult a8 
eamp of fourteen «inte, oF, in other words, that the 
Seapedlube wail tal potioly armenia trate towanl Zaneibar an the 
oa oe nitof Apntt next. All those people not A 
Baraat at comgn tt abc tay a ont 


“Hesny M. Sraxnxy.”” 





Notice to Shukel Agha, Commanding Mawne 


“The Commander of the Retlot Fixpadition hereby announces to the 

goat peti ioe Ste! Agha, Hatin ores (allow hi suit 

the Expedition will make a farther halt of 

fourteen tor i ak tse ut date erating 

he Tera day of Ava, tex, no mater who or wh my nol by reudy 
ste, poiiyly no further dey wil be granted, 

Gin, 1, out nore afection for Shukri 

notice into hs earnest ectsidartion, 








« Hewuy M. Srawney.* 


‘e 








f 
t 


| 


| 


tf 
tl 
Ma 


i 
EI 


iY 
i 
i 


: 


reports 40 tne 
forty wen eaptnes shan acd twoty-two dears who left 
our ri At holding of the court i is. 





letters fron Selim 
solidions—They take a lettor to Selim Dey from Emin—Ali Effendi 
‘sid lis bervants accompany tho soldiers back to Selim Bey. 
tw March 27¢h.—1 heurd to-day that strangers, supposed 
Msi to be Zansibaria, had arrived ni Mazambonia. 1 accord 
ingly despatched Jephson with forty-three rifles to 
ascertain the trath of this report, for it may be Jameson, 
mecompanied by Salim bin Mohamed and people. 








OSMAN LATIF EFFENDI. 188 


= March ew Jephson returned from Undussums, | 1999, 
ringing fifty-six native carriers, ‘There no 
st Té was a false rey Alas ! for Jameson. ““* 
We all wonder what course he adopted upon receiving: 
my letters. 

March 1st.—Cuptuin Nelson arrived in camp from 
Lake shore, bringing 182 loads, These bring up the 
total of loads farted een the Lake shore to this eamp to 
1855, Lam told there is nothing left except some large 
ivories, weighing about 150 pounds each, which we 
atk, carry. e La yates him sixty-five 
tusks, -five of which ing to the 
satan: for their marrige meen declined 
taking it, as they would prefer the monthly pay paid 


in goods to them on arriving at the C. M. 8. Mission at 
M 


isulnla, 

Osman Latif Effendi, the Lieut.-Governor of the 
Equatorial Province, came to me this afternoon, and 
guve me his opinions on the Wadelai officers. He says : 
“Selim Bey may join us, He ix not a bad man, He is 
fond of beer and indolent. If he comes, he will have 
about 350 soldiers and officers with him, who form his 

y.  Fadl-el-Mulla Bey is chief of the opposite party. 
ince they received news that Khartoum had fallen they 
have cast off all allegiance to the Pasha, That was 
just before Dr, Junker left. Believing that perhaps 
they would change their minds upon hearing of you, 
in Pasha led to see them with Mr. Jephson, 
and both were immediately arrested, Fudl-el-Mulla 
Bey and his clerk are Malilists. They hoped to et 
great honour from the Khalifa for delivering the Pasha 
up to them. They have had an idea of petting, you 
to visit them, and by sweet words and promising 
ie tans to catch you and send you to Khartoum. 
If Fadl-el-Mulla Bey comes here with his party, all 1 
can say is that you must be very careful. [am tired 
of the land and wish to go to Cairo. T want nothing 
to Hl with Shee 

“What do yon think of the people here, Osman 

Latif?" 


sear it, 


Kavalie, 


184 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


“Awash Effendi would nov dave to be left behind. 
As the Major of the 2nd Battalion he was aid to be 
severe. They hate him, and would kill him; 
almost all the others, if Selim Bey came here, and 
advised thom to stop, would prefer living here to going 
with the Pasha, T and Awash Effendi will follow you. 
If we died on the road that is the end of it. We should 
he sure to die here if we stayed.” 

“Why do they dislike the Pasha?” 

“T do not know, except that Shaitan (the Devil) 
instigates them, He has been very just, and good to 
them all, but the more he allows them to do as they 

lease the further their hearts are from him, They say, 
*Oh, let him go on collecting beetles and birds. e 
don’t want him.’ ‘The Pasha is very happy when he 
travels, and is able to collect things, und does not 
trouble himself about the men.” 

“Do you think they would have liked him better if 
he had hanged a few?” 

“Perhaps, God knows.” 

“Do you think you would have liked him better if he 
had been severe to you !” 

“No, but I should have heen more afraid. of him,” 

“Ah! Yos, of course,” 

“But please don’t tell the Pasha I said anything, 
otherwise he would not forgive me.” 

“Have no fear. If you hear what is going on in the 
camp let me know.” 

“Myself and my son ave at your service, We shall 
hear all that goes on, and will let you know.” 

T saw Osman Latif proceed soon after to the Pasha's 
quarters, and kiss his hands, and bend reverently before 
him, and immediately I followed, curious to observe, 
The Pasha sat gravely on his chair, and delivered his 
orders to Osman Latif with the air pwer, and Osman 
Latif bowed obsequiously after hearing each order, and 
aa innocent stranger mght have imagined that one 
embodied kingly authority wud the other slavish 
obedience. Soon after I departed absorbed in my own 
thoughts. 









MY BOY SALL 185 


Sali, my boy, is the cleverest spy in the camp. How 


he obtains his information I do not know, But he Marea 


appears to know a great deal more than Osman Latif or 
Awush Effendi, or nny of the young Egyptians. He ia 
in the counsels of the captains, Te 14 intimate with 
Mohammed, the engineer. He is apparently adored by 




















ALE, MEAD BOY, 


Capt. Ibrahim Effendi Elhom, and his father-in-law, Ali 
Effendi. Of course he has many subordinate informers 
to aasist, The Zanzilwria are inveterate traders; they 
always possess something to bargain with. During the 
preliminaries they shuffle the affaira of the camp, and as 
they are detailed the traders piece this and that together 








Kavalll 


| 
| 


| : " 
136 IN DARKEST APRICA. 


iago, and paas it over when well digested to Sali, after which 

Mahar T reovive the benefit of it, Much naturally is pure 

Seva gossip, but on the whole it amounts to a sum of solid 
and valuable information, 

’ T discover that there is a plot to break away com- 
pletely from the Pasha’s wuthority. The number of 
those actually faithful to-day in camp is nine. I am 
told that they know the Pasha is so unsuspecting that 
they have but to kiss his hand, and plead forgiveness, 
and he becomes pliant to any schemer. 

‘When a man becomes the jest of such rogues authority 
is weak indeed. 

Dr, Vita Hassan and Mohammed the engineer so 
that the Pasha pays great respect to Captam Casati’s 
opinion. I conalder it ia a very natural thing that he 

ould respect the opinion*of the ouly Buropean who 
has been with him between Dr. Junker's departure and 
our arrival, When Casati is inclined to presume upon 
kindness, Mr, Jephson reports that the Pasha knows 
exactly when to assume the governor. 

‘The Pasha nppeared this morning at my tent and 
informed me that Captain Casati was not well pleased 
with his departure from the Equatorial Provines ; that 
he thought it was his duty to stay. 

a tee Pushin?” 

“With my ile.” 

“ What Deore lease’ ig 

«Why, with my soldiers” 

“ Well now, really, I was under the impression that 

‘ou wrote me some time ago, with your own hand, 
sides endorsing Mr. Jephson’s letter, that you were a 
prisoncr to your own soldiers, that they had deposed 
you, that they had threatened to take you in irons, 
Strapped on your bedstead, to Khartoum, and I am sure 
you know as well ax I do what that meuns.” 

“That is true, But you must not think thet T am 
about to change my mind, As T said to you, T leave 
with you on the 10th of April next. That is settled. 
I wish, however, you would see Casati about this and 
talk to him." 


CAPTAIN CASATI AND BMIN PASHA, 187 


“T should be ae ee to do so, but my French is lt, 
wretched, and his is rek 

“Oh, if you ciple 8 bay to call me ¥ wil come in 
and be your interpreter.” 

What we have gleaned of Casati’s character is gen 
rally regarded as a reflection of the Pasha himself. ate 
hus not been averse to declaring that he would 
Mica to Europe, There is some reason in the 
seoking an excuse to remain here, but I can find none 
for Casati, though he has a right to express his pre- 
ference. But w! # good pr con influence ithe to to 
stay here now I fail to see. hen the Hose epee 
force he declined the salary of £1500 ayear and £12,000 
annual subsidy for the government of his Province : he 
deferred wi coins asomewhat similar post under British 
auspices until it was too late. The pore to return 
home was so displeasing to him that he elected to leave 
it unanswered until he could learn the wishes of his 
poo) in the attempt to ascertain which he was deposed, 
and imprisoned, and is now—let us speak the truth—a 

ee fraps hate ance 
it when these two men get together for a ye 

chat, the result is that the Pasha feels depressed, 
vexes himself unnecessarily with fears that he may 
charged by his rebellious troops with desertin my 
Casati feels elated somewhat at having caused these 
doubts, What Casati’s object is, more ‘to secure a 
ecrapanloa in misery, is to me unknown, 

T proceeded to Captain Casati's quarters, and presently, 
after un ineffectual effort to be intelligible to hn, sent a 
hoy to request the Pasha’s good offices, At once Casati 
commenced to lecture the Pasha in the name of honour 
and duty, and to persuade him that he was moralement 
wrong in abandoning his troops, referring of course to 
the Pasha's declared intention of leaving with us on the 
10th of April, 

“But the Pasha, Captain Casati,” I said, “never had 
an treed of abandoning his troops, as no person 
nm you. It is these who have 

Raise him, and made him a prisoner from August 





183 IN DARKEST AERICA. 


tse, 18th to February 8th, or thereabouts, nearly aix 
Moi months. ‘They have three times revolted, they have 
Koval said repeatedly they do not want him, nor will 
him, and they have threatened to kill him. ‘They would 
probably have sent him to Khartoum before this, had 
not the mad Danaglas shown what little mercy would 
have heen shown to them.” 
“The governor of a fort should never surrender his 
charge,” replied Casati, 
ty @ uite agree with you in that, if his troops remain 
faithful to him ; but if his troops arrest him, haul down 
the flag, and open the gutes, what can the poor governor 
do?” 


"A captain of a warship should fight his guns to the 
lust." 

“ Quite so, but if the erew seize the captain, and put 
him into the hold in irons, und haul down the flag, 
what then?” 

“No, 1 do not aj with yoo,” said the Captain, with 
emphasis, “/The Pasha should remain with his people,” 

“But where are his people? The rebels refuse to 
have anything to do with him except as a prisoner to 
them, Do you mean to aay that the Pasha should return 
as a prisoner, and be content with that humiliating 

ition 2" 

“No, certainly not.” 

“Perhaps you think that they would relent, and 
elevate him again to the post of Governor?” 

“Teannot say.” 

“Do you t) 

“Tt may be.” 

“Would you advise the Pasha to trast himself into 
the power of Fadl-el-Mulla Bey and his officers again 2” 





they would t” 


“Now, hore are your servants. Supposing they lay 
hold of you one night, and were going to kill you, and 
you were only aaved because your cries attracted your 
Ueliverers to the scene. Would you trust your life in 
their hands again!” 

“No.” 


INTERVIEW WITH CAPTAIN CASATI 189 


“Supposing your servants came to you this afternoon 
and you they would not obey you in the future, 
and if you insisted on their obedience would shoot you, 
would you consider yourself as morally bound to com- 
mand them?” 


“No, 

“Then, my dear Cuaati, you have answered the Pasha, 
und what you would not do, the Pasha is not bound to 
do, Emin Pasha had two duties to perform, one to the 
Khedive and one to his soldiers, It is because he 

formed his duty nobly and oe towards the 
hedive that I and my young friends volunteered to 
help him. The Khedive commands him to abandon 
the Province, and forwards assistance to him for that 
purpose, He appeals to his troops and requests them 
to their views, whereupon they seize him, 
menace him with deuth, and finally imprison him for 
six months. His answer is given him, which is, ‘For 
the last time, we have nothing to do with you, 

Cusati was not convinced, and I see that the Pasha is 
much troubled in mind. They will mect again to-night, 
and argue the moral aspect of the case again, God 
knows what their intentions will be to-morrow, Neither 
of them realise the true state of affairs I am convinced 
that their minds are in a bewildered state, as their 
position would be desperate if we left them to them- 
selves for a few days. 

Before retiring for the night the Pasha came to my: 
tent and assured me that he would leave on the 10th of 
April; that he is certain all the Egyptians in this camp, 
numbering with their followers ubout 600, will leave 
with him. But reports from other quarters prove to me 
that the Pasha is grossly mistaken. How they will 
undeceive him Ido not know. So far I have nov ex- 


many words with any of the party, and T have 








uly nob pretended to “have any authority over 

IT consider the Pashn as my guest, and the 

ptinns os his followers, 1 supply the whele party 

with meat and grain, and Surgeon Parke attends to the 
siek each morning and afternoon, 


a 


188, 
‘Mareh dt. 
Kayalli, 


| 


190 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


asio, April 1st.—The first move homeward has been made 
Arlt. to-day. Lient. Stairs has been despatched with his 


my, sixty-one effective rifles, to form advance 
anh ae Mazasboni, to store contributions, &., rend 
for the huge column that will leave here on the 10tl 
‘Instant. 

Accompanying him were Major Awash Effendi, Rushti 
Hifendi, and two or three other Egyptians and their 
followers, also fifty-seven of Mazamboni’s, twenty-nine 
of Usiri’s, and thirly of Mpiuga’s natives, ‘Besides loads 
of No. 2 Compuny, these carriers took eighty-cight 
loads of ammunition, Remington, Winchester, and gun- 


Here is a curious table for medical men ; 
Wrionrs or Oprroxus at 


Manuna Fort Bodo in Kavall’ After 
Point, the Korat, Camp, lekrees, 





Stanley pits, Tote. 14 Ibe 
Major Mariott” is * in ne 
Boe Naleon nT 
Buin Pa = arian 


April 2nd.—Ruwenzori has been visible the last three 
days, That snow-covered range has been a most ate 
tractive and beautiful sight—pure, dazzling, varying in 
colours with the hours, with infinite depth of opaline 
blue all round it, until the sun set and dark night 
covered the earth, The natives declared it could not 
be seen because the south hill of the Baregga obstructed 
the view, but by our levels and triangulations we knew 
it ought to be seen; and it has been seen. We pointed 
it out to the natives, They turned and asked, * How 
did you know it could be seen from here ¢" 

ipril 3rd. —The Pashn is slowly opening his eyes. 
He came to me this afternoon and related that he Thad 
assembled his houschold of fifty-one soula—aervants, 
guards, orderlies, who have hitherto been attached to 


* ‘This is added to make tho table more complete, 


THE LITT GML RBARED BY OASATE — 191 
him—and had asked them who were willing to 


accom 
him on the 10th of April. All but four declined. Ae 


rest say they will wait for their “ brethren.” 

One of these four faithfuls is one who bluntly stated. 
that he only followed to seize a little girl whom Captain 
Casati was detaining by force from him, and that after 
getting possession of her he would return to Kavalli to 
await his “ brethren,” 

Upon asking the Pasha what claims Casati bad upon 
the girl—who is intensely black and about five 
old—he said that Casati a few years go hn api to 
him for a female cook, She accompanied him to 
Unyoro while he had represented him in that country, 
During her service with Casati the female cook gave 
birth to thia child, who was the offspring of a Sondanese 
soldier. For three years the child was reared by Casati 
in his house, She became a pet, and with her artless 
prattle and childish ways she relieved the solitary man's 
tedious life. On his expulsion from Unyaro by Rabb 
carer return to the provinee, the woman was claimed 
by her husband, and likewise the child, but at the same 
time he disclaimed paternity. Casati refused to deliver 
the child up, and has obstinately refused to do go to this 


day. 

The Pasha thinks it possible that the soldier has some 
sinister intentions respecting Casati, und deplores Ca- 
satis morbid attachment to his servants, male and 
female, He is disinclined to exercise his authority on 
Cusati, who has been his guest and true friend for many 
‘aa but he regrets that his friend will nat be advised 
by him. ‘This conversation occurred between 5,30 to 
6.30 Pm. 

One hour later, while taking « short stroll before my 
tent in the moonlight, T heard a fierce brawling voice 
uttering in Arabic gutturu! imprecations. Amid the 

strenuous, and voluble abuse, I distinguished my 
name and the Pasha's frequently, with determined 
splutterings of “ Buough h—enough!” [heard 
other voices coaxingly crying, ‘For the Prophet's sake,” 
“ Have a little patience.” “Base your wrath,” and such 








a 
Kovall’s 


1880, 
Apri, 
Kavala, 


—— 


a2 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


Tike, and. ae the Pasha’s voice rang out deep and 
strong, is the matter there?! Peace, I ge 
you; pews, then,—Well, go and tell Mr. Stanley ; his 
‘tent is not far off. Go!” 

Presently, one Mohammed Effendi, the engineer, a light 
skinned and not unprepossessing Egyptian, thus chal- 
lenged, rushed up to me, followed by a large crowd, and. 

ured—that is the term—a story strongly coloured 

jealousy and bitter with angry denunciations, His 
wife, he said, to whom he had been lawfully married at, 
Khartoum, had been allowed by him, ou the death of 
the Abyssinian mother of Ferida, to become nurse to 
the child. This was thirty months ngo. At first his 
wife could find time not only to perform duty by the 
child, bat also to him, but during the last six months 
she had become estranged fromm, and abused him 
violently upon every occasion they met. During the 
Just twenty-four hours he had sent over a score of 
messages to her, each of which she had rejected with 
increasing scorn, Was this right? Waa there no 
justice for him 4 

“Really, my friend Mohammed," I replied, “I have 
no authority to settle such delicate questions. Have you 
been to the Pasha? Have you asked him to try and 
exercise his authority? Seeing that she is a nurae in 
his household, he is the person you should apply to; 
not me.” 

“Go to himt Why should I go to him? Nay, 
then, if you will not do me justice, 1 will either lall 
myself, or my wife, or the Pasha. I will do one thing 
sure,” 

He departed, storming loudly, so that the entire 
camp heard his threats, 

MLA seaisely ceased mroudering what wll thie einem 
when a white-robed figure stole up rapidly towards my 
tent, evidently a female by her dress, 

“Who is this?” 1 asked. 

“The wife of Mohammed Effendi.” 

“In the name of God why do you choose to come 
here t” 


MOHAMMED EEFENDI AND IS WIPE, 108 


You must listen tom , having heard that of 
MmrGen dana Shae 

“Have you the Pasha’s permission to visit me?” 

Tho permission being granted, the woman was shown 
into my tent by Mr. Jephson and Dr, Parke, 

“Well, apa j my ears are opened.” 

The fair one crouched down, and made no mass of 
white in the darkest corner of the tent, lit as it was by 
a single candle, A subtle fragrance of Shiraz, or Stam- 
oul oil filled the tent, and « peiy re and it~ 
ful voice uttered such clear-cut Arabic that I imagined: 

understood every word. A fortnight’s experience 
with such a voice would make me an Arabic scholar, 

The fair one's story was to the effect that she dis- 
liked her husband most heartily—yea, hated him alto- 

ther. He was simply a heathen ‘brute. He was too 
low to be worthy of her regard. He had robbed, torn 
her clothes, beaten her, had half split her head one 
time. No; she would never, never—no, never, &e,, &e., 
have anything to do with him in future. 

% ay you finished your story!” 

"Yes." 

“Serur! Take her back to the Pasha’s house.” 

A few seconds elapsed, and the Pasha advanced to the 
tent and craved an interview. He related that the 
woman with the husband's consent had become nurse to 
his little daughter, for which she received a liberal wage 
in cloth, which was no sooner paid to her than her 
bushand snatehed it away, and shamefully beat her, At 
her entreaties she obtained the Pasha's protection even 
against the husband. He hod heard no objections made, 
and knew nothing of this fury of jealousy until this 
evening when he heant the wrathy voice of Mohammed 
denouncing him, and threatening to shoot him, ‘There- 
paca was paifed to ask for my protection, as the 

might in a fit of madness kill somebody. 

“Do you leave this affair in my hands, Pasha!" 

ly,”" 





“Very Well, I will ask you to retire to your quarters, 
guards will be placed at every entrance leading to them, 
Vou. 1 13 








ee al 


‘194 IN DARKEST APRICA, 


iso. and J will guarantee the safety of all within. I will all 
a Tateehe of 


and hear his story patiently, and will let 
* you know what arrangements have been made before 
you aCe a 

ee ae 

is wt was that having given his wife 

to be fae to little Feri tat had no intention of 
depriving che little girl of her services ; he simply wished 
that his wife should visit him occasionally and prove 
herself amenable to marital duty. y 

“If you will conform to a few simple conditions, T 
will do'my best to bring your wife to her senses, but it 
is necessary you should micet me at the Pasha's house 
to-morrow morning and apologise to him for you 
ing violence to-night. Now, don’t interrupt me,” I snid 5 
“you have been urged to this rade behaviour 
friends, Dr. Vita Hasson, Bassili Effendi, and others te 
make a scene. Go to your house quietly, and beware 
you utter no more words to-night. Toad morning 
we shall meet again,” 

This evening 4 mail has arrived from Wadelai, and 
the letters announce the utmost disorder and the most 
extraordinary confusion at that station, 

ipril 4th—Av8 A.M. 1 proeveded to the Pasha’s house 
and informed him that T desired to call Mohammed to 
his presence, He consented, and the man made a most 
submissive apology, though his angry features belied 
his professions of penitence. He was then told to state 
to the Pasha before me upon what conditions he was 
willing to let the woman continue us nurse, He said 
he wished his wife to attend on Ferida until she was 
put to sleep, from the first hour of the morning, that was 
all, to which the Pasha expressed himself agreeable, 

“On the following conditions only, Mohammed, do 1 
agree :— 

“st. Your wife shall attend on Ferida during the 
daytime, 

* nd, Your wife shull return to your house after 





sunset. =n 
“3rd. Your wife is not to be beaten or bruised, 





MONWAMMED EFFENDI AND HIS WIFE. 195 


“4th. Your wife’s mal shall remain with 
the Pasha, aaa 

“Sth. You shall assist, protect, and watch over 
wife while on the march, and allow her on reaching 
camp to serve Ferida, 

“6th. You shall not trouble your wife and distract her 
with your demands during the day—except in caso of 
your illness, 

“7th. The Pasha, in consideration of your wife's 
service, shall feed and clothe her, and see that she is 
carried on the march.” 

Both the Pasha and Mohammed agreed, 

‘The woman was then called, and the Pasha translated 
word for word the above conditions. As she heard them 
she swept the white muslin from her face, and in the 
Absence of any superior attraction she appeared to me to 
possess Teen spas with 5 yeni uaree black 
tyes—a distinctively fine Cairene fuce, The hut was 
filled with perfume from her spotless white muslin robe. 

Inder this overdress, she wore a scarlet dress. In the 
wilds of Africa I never met anything Sopreenltag her. 

After the conditions had been translated, she inter- 
jected a vigorous * Never, never, no, never!” coupled 
with u free abuse of Mohammed, who stood looking 
ridiculously angry and jealous. He appealed to me to 
listen to her, 

“Take her to you, Mohammed.” 

‘The man gave the order to her to proceed to his house, 
which order she contemptuously es 

“She must go to your house now,” I said. 

in Mohammed extended his hand towards her, 
which she angrily pushed aside. “Never, never, no, 
never!” she fiercely, with flashes of anger from her 
beautiful gazelle eyes. 

* Ploase to command her departure, Pasha.” 

‘The Pasha delivered the order in his usual deep voice, 
She remained immovable, 

“ You see she refuses to go,” said the Pasha * What 
can be done ¢" 

“ My dear Pasha, we were prepared for u scene. This 





1880, 
April 3, 
| 


IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


isexnetly what we both knew would happen. 

her obstinacy, she must—she absolutely must 

with her husband, and we mnst forbear, 

happens, unless the man strikes her, Please to com- 
mand once more, Pusha, that she ae own 
ale husband, or she shall be carried bodily to her 
ome. 


The Pasha did so, and after a second’s hesitation, 
daring which it was clear that she was measuring the 
strength of two wills, she walked out, taking the sweet 
fragrance und loveliness of her presence with her 

“ After her, Mohammed ! but if you strike her with 
even a feather, she shall become as a stranger to you 
until you reach Cairo, Let her scold on, man, even 
until she faints with weariness, Does a man like 
fear wind? Be considerate with her for three or four 
days. She will come round, never feur.” 

‘en minutes later Mohammed agnin made his appear- 
ance, and anxiously cried out that she was of 
a devil and unmanageable, tearing her robes, and pulling 
at her face as though she would destroy ite beanty for 
ever, ke, &e, 

“Quite 80, quite so, Mohammed; just what we 
expected she would do. Go tie her up by the wrists, 
her hands behind her back, Mohammed. Do it with a 
smile of confidence, and with soothing words, Moham- 
med, T know no law to prevent you, Mohammed, 
She is your own lawful wife, Mohammed But beware 
of striking her, for if you do it you are a beas 

he man went, and, in a matter-of-fact way, tied wy 
the shrewish beauty. Then she shrieked and wail 
for hulf an hour, and the neighbours’ wives came in to 
comfort her, ind begged her to be submissive to her 
lord, and promised her that her husband would become 
at once tender and kind if she but showed due obedience, 
“Tr is the excess af his love for you,” they said, “ that 
makes him so fierce and angry. “If you were only wise, 
he would become the most docile slave.” Wise wives } 

But their combined advice, and the cunning ay 

dung 








tious thrown in, had not so much influence in sul 


ee 





a 


MOHAMMED KFYENDI AND HIS WIPE. 197 


that raging temper, in my opinion, az her bonds, which 1880, 
made the proud woman appear absurdly helpless before Ar! & 
the sneering husband. sg shy 

At S pat she senta pitiful message to me that I 
would cause her release, but she was sternly told that 
her voice had no power, uor her beauty any charms for 
me; that she must appeal to her husband. “Accordingly 
she turned to Mohammed, and meckly implored her 
lord to go and plead for her, that her bands pained her, 
and that she would in furave obey him devotedly. 

Then Mohammed came, with his face radiant with 
triumphant emotions, and relieved of those jealous 
wrinkles which had so disfigured it, and inter for 
her release. ‘This was granted, with an advice not ta 
let his fondness become folly ; to be commanding in 
tone, and auaterely distant for a few days, otherwise ahe 
would regain her lost advantages, 

She was permitted to resume her duties in the Pasha's: 
household. At night she meekly returned to her hus- 
hand's honse of her own accord, Let us hope that 

will spread her wings over the disturbed family 
for the future. Amen ! 

April 5th.—This morning Serour, a boy of Monbuttu 
Jand, belonging to the Pasha’s household, informed me 
that only two of the Pasha’s servants intended to follow 
him out of this camp. THe stated that after the Pasha 
lad questioned his servants, the day before yesterday, 
they had gone apart and consulted among themselves, 
and that they had finally resolved to let him depart 
without them—orderlies, guards, clerks, and servants, 
all except Bilal and he, Serour. 

“But are you sure that you will go with him ?" 

“1 don’t know. If all my friends remain behind, 
what shall [do alone?” 

2 Well, then, only Bilal ia certain of going ?” 


At 10.30, after the usual morning muster, Sali 
to meq that the Zanaibaris were talking of 

several attempts having been made, in various parts of 
the camp, to steal rifles from their huts, but that en 


Am ail 


198 IN DARKEST AFRICA, 

isa, each occasion the attempt was thwarted by the prompt 
aril wakefulness of the je. Twas glad to hear that at 
Kenll Yast the Zanzibaris had learned the i of 
securing their rifles close by them ut night. ‘There is & 
fren! feeling in the camp that something is ahout to 
appen, The whispering circles observed each day, the 
care they take that no outsiders approach too near 
them, the discovery that the Pasha’s servants had 
astuslly, informed the Pasha. plainly thet they woid 
not accompany him, the huge packets of letters that 
were despatched by the Eaypeians to the ever-dilatory 
tins at Wadelai, the heavy mails that, came from 
lai in return, the insidious warnings of others not. 
to trust in the Rerpilans; coupled with the former theft 

of u rifle by the returning officers, and these 
attempts to steal a few more rifles, ull conspired to 
prove conclusively that between this date and the 10th 

of April some daring scheme is about to be tried. 

Up to this date I have regarded the Pasha and the 
ane our guests, to be treated with all politeness 
ee consideration, and myself as host and guide merely, 
except when any matter was throst and put into my 
Piatebement: / Yor tha Pasha personally all of cents 
tained great respect and sympathy. Not a day has 
passed without an exhibition of this feeling from m 
‘and officers, but we have been none the less aware that 
the Pasha’s method fails utterly to constrain obedience. 
There has not been a single order of any importance 
obeyed, nor uny request regarded. As often as we have 
observed this we have chafed and regretted that each 
time we have been emboldened to speak to him he has 
believed himself infallible in his judgment, from his 
thirteen years’ experience of them, But now that the 
Egyptians bad begun, from our quiet inoffensive manner, 
to conceive that the whites were similar to their Pasha, 
‘and proposed to accomplish some project involving our 
rights und liberties, the time was come to uct. 

wroceeded to the Pasha’s house, 
¢ Pasha, who was putting the final touches to some 
irda just stuffed by his secretary, pulled himself wp 








cll == il 


VISIT 10 BMIN PASHA'S HOUSE. 199 


ie his usual dignity, and gravely prepared himself to 
listen, 

uy) Pasha,” I said, * last evening eourers arrived 
from Wadelai and Mswa. They brought a large packet 
of letters from Selim Bey, Egyptian clerks, and others, 
and each letter which you received described disorder 
and distress, There are now hulf a dozen factions there, 
each arrayed against the other. One Coptic clerk wrote 
you that no one seemed to know what he was about, 
that the soldiers broke into the Government magazines 
and took out whatever pleased them, that the oflicers 
were unable to restrain them, and that Wadelai was like 
a settlement consisting wholly of madmen ; that Selim 
Bey had not begun to Anes his own family: that 
he had but few followers, and that these were altogether 


“Your people here wlso received many letters from 
their brethren, and, as though in accordance with this 
fact, there was an attempt made last night to appro 
poe our arms, ‘Three separate times they oni the 

ibari huts and tried to abstract thé rifles; but, 
acting after my instructions, the Zanziburis tied their 
rifles to their waists, and when they were pulled, the 
were wakened, and the intending thieves decamped. 
While you have been engaged with your colleetions and 
atudies, I have been observing. 

“They have yet five nights before our departure on the 
10th inst. The attempt to rob us of our arms of defence 
failed Inst night. They will try again, and perhay 
succeed, for I credit them with being clever enough, 
wud it is fae clear that they have a design of some 
kind. Of course, if they sucewed in appropriating 
even one rifle, the punishment will he summary, for 
shall then forget what is due to them as your le and 
my guests, But this is what I wish to avoid. I should 
‘bo loth to shed their blood, and create scenes of violence, 
when « better way of safeguarding our arms and ammu- 
nition, und effecting a quiet and perceuble departure 
from here, ean be found. 

“T propose to you one of two things. Sound the 


—— 





i 


3, 
Kavallie, 


200 UN DARKEST AFRICA. 


signal to muster all the Arabs and Sondanese with 
poe ead then find out gently who is willing to leave: 
you. 


‘Those who are Tiweradene order to 
leave the camp. If they do not obey, then it will be 
for me to employ compulsion. But as these people 
despise our Zanzibaris, they may very probably attempt 
resistance, Well, in a land where there is no appeal but 
to our it will cortainly end violently, and we 
shall both regret it afterwands. 

“The other proposal is much more effective and more 
Biogas Do you onder your baggnge tobe packed up 
quietly, and at dawn my people shall all be to 

toa camp about three miles from here, 
that camp we shall issue a request that those who intend. 
following you shall come in and be welcome, but no 
other person shall approach without permission on pain 
of death.” 

“Hum! May [inform Casati of this?” demanded 
the Pasha. 

“No, sir. Casati is in no danger ; they will not hurt 
him, hecanse he is not their governor or officer, He is 
only a traveller. He can come the next day, or when- 
ever he is inclined, If he is detained, I will attack the 
rebel camp and reseue Casati quickly enough." 

The Pasha, while I spoke, shook his head in that 
melancholy, resigned manner peculiar to him, which 
has always seemed to me to betray pitiable irresolution. 

“You do not like either plan, Pusha, I see. Will you, 
then, suggest some plan by which I can avoid coming 
into vonilict. with these wretched, misguided people, for 
as certain as daylight, it is impending? In my cup 
indiseipline and unruliness ehall not prevail.” 

The Pasha, after a while, replied, "Your plan is not 
bad, but there is not sufficient time.” 

“Why, Pasha, you have told me you have been 
packing up for the Inst fifteen days. Do you mean to 
say that between now and to-morrow morning you 
cannot finish packing your baggage ? In thirty minutes 
our Expedition can start, If you cannot be awakened 
to the danger of bloodshed, and you will not accept 


i 








TWO PROPOSITIONS TO EMIN PASHA. 21 


my plan, nor suggest anything that will relieve us 19 
of the necessity FF destroying ira another, I must at sem 
once take meastives for the general safety ; and shonld a “™* 
single drop of blood be spilled, it must be upon 

ma that the guilt of it will lie Adieu.” ee 

1 rose and sounded the signal for general muster 
under arms. Myself and officers armed, and the Zanzi- 
baris, Manyuoma, Soudanese, and natives, seeing ua 
assume our weapons, knew that the case was urgent, 
and hastened to the square with wonderful celerity. The 
natives of Kavalli passed the warm, and some hundreds 
came rushing up to take their share in what they be- 
lieved was « coming straggle. 

Within five minutes the companies were under arms, 
and stood attentive along three sides of the great: square. 
The Pasha, seeing that T was in earnest, caine out, and: 
begged me to listen to one word. 

“Certainly ; what is it?” T asked, 

“ Only tell me what T have to do now.” 

“Tt is too late, Pasha, to adopt the pacific course L 
suggested to you, The alarm is general now, and 
therefore 1 propor to discover for myself this danger, 
and face it here, Sound the signal, please, for muster 
of your Arabs before me.” 

© Very good,” replied the Pasha, and gave the order 
to his trumpeter, 

We waited ton minutes in silence, Then, perceivin; 
that not much attention was paid to the signal, 
requested Mr. Jephson to take No. 1 company, arm the 
men with clubs and sticks, and drive every Arab, , 
tinn, and Soudanese into the square, without regard to 
rank, to search every house, and drag out every male 
found within. 

The Zanzibaris were deployed across the camp, and, 
advancing on the run, begun to shower blows upon 
every laggard and dawdler they came across, until the 
most sceptical was constrained to admit that, when 

led, the Zanzibaria were fit for somethin; 
peeeeeiihan working a3 a hamal for # lazy Egyptian a 
ve. 


— 








202 IN DARKKST AFRICA. 


iss, For the first time the iuns and Soudanese formed 


n 


“nm decent line. Not until they, had formed it with 
i to 


‘oan military exactitude and precision was a word snid 


Tt was most amusing to see an ordinary Zanzi- 
buri carrier straighten with his stal!—whieh he flourished: 
with a grim face—the line of mujors, Vakeels, eaptains, 
lieutenants, clerks, and store! 

When the line was satisfactory, 1 stepped up to them 
and informed them that I heard they wished to fight, 
that they were eager to try what kind of men the Zanzi- 
baris were. They had seen how well they could work ; 
it would be a pity if they were not able to see how well 
could fight. 

he Vakeel—Licutenant-Governor—replicd, “ But we 
don't wish to fight.” 

“Then what is this I hear, that one of you is as good 

. aa ten of my men, of rifles being stolen, of plots and 
counterplots each day that you have been here, of 
aS resolve not to follow the Pasha after making us 

wild your houses and collect food for you, and carrying 
hundreds of loads the last two months up this mountain: 
from the lake, and last night three of our houses were 
entered, and you lnid your hands upon our arms, Speak, 
and say what it all means,” 

“ Nh, Pasha, no one of us wishes to fight, and let the 
thieves, if found, die.” 

“Tf found! Will any thief confess his theft and de- 
liver himself to be shot, Will you, who are all of one 
mind, betray one another, and submit yourselves to 
punishment? Do you intend to follow your Pasha?” 

“ We all do,” they answered, 

“Stay. Those who intend following the Pasha form 
rank on that other side, like soldiers, each in his place.” 

At once there was a general and quick movement in 
regular order; they then turned about and faced me 


again. 

“Sol Is there none desirous of staying in this fair 
Innd with Selim Bey, where you will be able to make 
these natives do your work for you, cook, and feed 
you?” 





tl ee 





ADDRESS TO BMIN'S PEOPLE, 208 


“None, not one. La il Allah il Allah!” SS 
4. Why, Pasha, you have been misinformed, surely * S05 
‘These people vow they are all faithful. There is not a 
traitor here.” 

“T do not see my servants and orderlies here,” replied 
the Pasha. 

“ Ah, Lientenant Stairs, please take a party and roust 
ary man out, On the least resistance you know what 
baa” 

“Right, sir.” 

Lieutenant Stairs took his company, gave his orders, 
and in a few minutes the Pasha’s servants were brought 
into the square; they were deprived of their rifles und 
accoutrements. 

“Now, Pusha, please ask them severally before me 
what sete ae ing i ber al 

ie Pasha asking them, they eplied th 

peace to follow their master fs the ead of the 
world, cueing ‘one, Seroor, 

The Pasha, pointing ont Seroor, said, “That is the 
chief conspirator in my household.” 
“Ob, iv will only take one cartridge to settle his 


business.’ 
“But I hope, for God's sake, that you will try him 
first, and not take my word for it.” 

“Undoubtedly, my dear Pasha. We invariably give 
such people « fair trial,” 

Seroor was placed under guard with three others whom 
the Pasha pointed out. 

“Now, Pasha, this business having been sutisfactorily 
ended, will you be good enough to tell these officers that 
the tricks of Wadelai must absolutely cease here, and that 
in future they are under my command, If T discover any 
treacherous tricks I shall be compelled two exterminate 
them utterly. No Mahdist, Arabist, or rebel can breathe 
in my camp. Those who behave themselves and are 
obedient to orders will suffer no harm from their fellows 
or from us. My duty is to lead them to Egypt, and 
until they arrive in Cairo I will not leave them, ~What- 
ever I con do to make them comfortable I will do, 


= i 























Spt omens oe : aon 








SRE 2 OS 














a flew 
: ap ey ae 
cell 





BMIN PASHA'S FOLLOWERS. 205 


Mosrun of Bary Pamia's Foutowmns, Avni 5th, 1860—continiet, ts, 








fom, £ 
- 
6 
1 
4 
a 
4 
Thrahim, his . . 
1» Effendi, Pasha’s secretar 2 
Ade std al J 3 


te sha’ alee 








Shak Ap nt), captain 2 























poe sedition, and theft of arms, there is only 
leath.”” 
The Pasha translated, und the Arabs bowed their 


Soe tet aot comphota, naeach wx Sealers have sto ain 
Hit thelr women to appear ic, others 
fecitrantetteal tie nessaiy othe wens ie 


_ “4 





LN DARKEST APRICA. 


and the Vakeel and two cay 
tie ¢ Shei father rig 
Ci replied ‘asuIne: 
i dexaet 
families, and 


atudent and the man of unsuspecting heart to 
ese fay crafty rogues, who have made fraud 
and porfdy: thelr profession, At the same time, it 
pte e es tit ae ia ed thee a 
wiles, and gra wil ese men boldly, 
isorcahed the heads of these veterans in falsehood and 
eraft, that his position would have been safer than it was 
“aor es however, tae us own Sy and Be 
al ie consequences: judgment and acta. 
all must admit, that what is so far written does infinite 
credit to rd Mee . “ iba 
ae Gth—Sixty-five natives have arri sent 
hy the chief Mazamboni as carriers, to be ready for the 
10th instant. 
‘Osman Latif Effendi, the Licutenant-Gorernor of the 
vines, was once much addicted to inebriety, but of 
late years be lus become a rigid abstainer, such an 
A reader of the Koran that not long ago bis 
clothes were aflame before he was aware of it, 
During the suridew muster of the day before yesterday, 
reo declaration of my intentions, be became 





a 


OSMAN LATIF EFFENDI'S MOTHER, 207 


the hand, I cried, “ Get out of this; this is not the place 1s. 
for old women.” She lifted her hands and eyes up sky- 4?" 
ward, gave n little shriek, and cried, “O Allah {" in Sat 
such tragic tones that almost destroyed my character. 
Every one in the square witnessed the limp and shrank 
figure, and langho loudly at the poor ald thing as she 
beat a hasty retreat. 

While arranging his eleven loads, consisting of baskets 
of provisions, carpets, und cooking-pots and family bed- 
ding, Osman Latif Effendi held the Koran between thumb. 





40" ASONOSY BOVITIAN LAUT: 


and finger, and alternately appealed to the Arabic lines, 
and to the Arab lares and penates in the baskets, 
Among the people yesterday I found forty-nine young 
fellows without arms. As they drew up in line they 
4 request to be armed with rifles. Not know- 
ing their character, I sent to the Pasha to be good enough 
to give me a list of the most deserving, that they might 
assist in the defence of the column while on the march, 
but he begged to be excused, as he did not feel well 
enough. Poor Casati is not on speaking terms with the 


—— - 


208 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


ssi”, Pasha, because of his judy t against him in the matter 

eet, of the little black girl of the other day, and I suppose 
the Pasha will not be on speaking terms with me, be- 
cause of the shock of cele 

The march will do them all good. When the Pasha 
is in presence of Ruwenzori—the Mountains of the 
\ eed will recover tone. ' 

April 7th.—The Egyptians are now carestly pre 

‘ing for the march. I have ordered every family to 

we a reserve of at least six days’ provisions on hand 
ut all times, irrespective of the plenty that may be in 
the vicinity. ie Zanzibaris have become at last 
Tapes with the necessity of this, though it required 

ighteen months most woeful experience and constant 
instruction to teach them this secret of African travel, 

April 8th.—Maxamboui’s natives, who have heen 

athering here ready for our departure, daneed nearly 

the whole day, ‘The women of the Buvira turned out em 
masse to exhibit a farewell performance, My vanity 
induces me to publish the faet that the songa were 
merely extemporuneous effusions in our honour for 
having as they say “ fixed the country in order.” 

This afternoon Omar, sergeant of our Sondanese, 
created a scene because of some supposed insult to his 
wife by the Zanzibaris, As the affair waxed serious, the 
intending combatants were brought to the square and 
requested, if they would not disperse, to fight the matter 
out before me as umpire. Now Omar is a «plendid 
specimen of manhood, an excellent soldier and officer, 
but both he and the cantankerous Zanzibaris were elated 
above reason by uative beer. Omer and his Zanzibari 
antagonists loudly clamoured for a fight, “ With fists or 
labs?” “Clubs for men,” shouted the Zanzibaris—a 
very unfortunate choice for them, as it turned out. 

Omur stood like a colossus, with hia coat sleeve rolled 
up. A Zanzibari sprang to the front calling out, “ [am 
Asmani, of Museati; behold how I will lay low this 
Nubian!” They made two passes, and Asmani was 
struck to the ground senseless, He was taken up and 
placed in charye of Dr. Parke, 








— ail 





COMBAT BETWEEN OMAR AND ZANZIBARTS. 200 
“Next of ye who feel ieved 


Omar.” Hajji, 1880. 
a tall Zanzibari, responded, rhe his club, struck Am 


deftly one side, but the blow wus cleverly caught by 
ea and before he could recover his guard a had 
measured his length on the green! . ‘The applause 
ee ee 

fajji wos away like the ore 1 
Plaza de Toros, and sent to the Doctor to he cured of 
his skull-crack, 

“Next;” and at the call bounded a sturdy, active 
Tittle fellow named Ulaiya—or England, “Ho, my 
lads, T am England—this Turki soldier shall die!" 
his brave confidence he flung his turban away, and 
exposed his bare head. One, two, three ! and, alas, for 
Ulaiya, the baton of Omar came down on his unpro- 
tected cranium with a blow which would have killed « 
white man, but only caused him to collapse and 
become too confused for further effort. The sight of 
the blood streaming down his face infuriated his 
comrades, and a general rush was made upon Omar, who, 
Vefore he was rescued, received! an extremely wore back 
from the multitude of blows showered on him, so that 
victor and vanquished had received adequate punishment, 
and declared thamssived perfectly satistied that each of 
their honours had been gratified by the display. After 
paaoraiieac, they were, however, taken to the guard- 
JouNe 

April 9th—This morning the combatants of yesterday 
were brought before me at muster, Sergeant Omar was 
‘informed that, whereas he, being an officer, had allowed 
himself to indulge in drink, his sentence was that he should 
earry a box of ammunition while on the march until the 
Zanzibaris’ heads were healed, and during their retirement 
from the active list, he, being in the meanwhile, disrated, 
Three other Soudanese were sentenced to do porter's 
duty for a similar period for having drawn steel weapons 
during the fight with intent to do dendly injury, and 
‘one Soudanese received a dozen for putting a cartridge 
with intent to shoot, Sernr, the Monbuttu, servant of 
the Pasha, with his master’s permission, received two 

You. 1. 14 


Apt. 


a 


210 IN DARKEST AFRICA, 


one for he boy shovel to strike the combatants, 
by malice for the events of the ri 
en 
Notice was also given that the march towards 
Zanzibar would commence next morning, which an- 
Cee was received with frantic applause,” 
a, Msiri, Mwité, Malai, Wabiassi, Mazam- 
boni, Moines Balegga have furnished 350 carriers, 
ee assembled this evening, dancing, singing, and 


ah rye Commandant of Mawa, haa not arrived 
yet, though he has sent his children and women. 

April 10th—March ftom Kavalli’s to Mpingu’s, four 
hours, 

At 7.30 a.m. the column streamed out of camp lod 
by No. 1 company, then followed the Pasha and his 
people, with their allotted number of carriers. 

Roughly the number was us follows— 


Expedition 330 
retin. Seep) ie 180 
Platean natives, 5) 800 
Pastaund people > > >> 600 
Tol . «2,510 


‘There was no disorder or disturbance, The bal 
kept as close order as though it was composed of 
veterans, The ridges and swells of land were Toad 
with women and children, who sang their farewells to 
us. Every one was animated and happy. 

Captain Nelson, in charge of the rear guard, set fire 
to the straw town which had seen so many anxious 
weeks of onr life. The fire was splendid; the fearful 
flames seemed to lick the Mere sky from where we stood, 
and the great cloud of black smoke announced to the 
country round about, even as far as Pisgah, that the 
Expedition was homeward bound, 

April Vth —Halt. 

April 12th—Mareh to Mazamboni’s, four and half 
hours, 


WE START FOR THE COAST. an 


Continued our journey to the Sule our 
friend Mazamboni, but the compact order was much 
broken, The Pasha's people straggled over many miles 
of the road. This will have to be eorrected to avoid 
wholesale casunlities, There is no fear in this country, 
for this is our own, and the natives are in u fair way of 
becoming civilized. 

Lieutenant Stairs was discovered, having made am) 
piper for the wants of the column, and had nothing 

ut grateful news to deliver to us, 

April 13th,—ult, L write this in bed, am in great 
pain; Dr, Parke informs me I suffer from sub-weute 
gastritis, which I judge to be something of an inflamma- 
tion of the stomach ; um under the influence of i 
Tast night about 2 a.m. the first propio attacked 
me. A halt has been ordered, which [ fear will be a 
long one. This compulsory pause will be a forced 
extension of time to those misguided people of the 
Equatorial Province who may hear of our departure 
from Kayalli, and who may fake this halt as a further 
grace offered to them. 

‘Now followed, one day after another, days of excessive 
pain and almost utter weariness of life. The body 
pined for want of the nourishment that the excoriated 
stomach invariably rejected. Nothing but milk and 
water could be taken, and the agony caused by the 
digestion had to be eased by hypodermic injections of 
morphia, For the first few days the devoted au 
enabled me to hope that, through his skilful nursing, 
I might soon reeover, and my mind became netive in 
planning the homeward march, and conceiving every 
unhappy circumstance attending it, and the necessary 
measures that should be taken, 1 supposed Kabba 
Rega was aware of the retreat of the Pasha und his 
people, and would do his utmost to oppose our pro- 
gress, conceded to him in imagination hundreds of 
rifles, and thousands of spearmen with his allies, who 
use the long bows of the Wahuma, and fancied that 
after him we should meet the brave and warlike 
Wasongora, of whom I had heard in 1875, and then 


HE 


212 IS DARKEST AFRICA, 
the Wanyunkori, with their king named the “ Lion,’ 


180, 
Aen Hersecuting the column night and day, and victim 
‘bonis 


after vietim di from among our living ranks ; 
and then the passage of the Alexandra Nile amid 
rain of arrows, to encounter the uo less hostile people 
of Karagwé, assisted by the Waganda, and the column 
daily decreasing im strength and numbers, until some 
day, a fow, after infinite struggles, would reach 

and tell Mackay, the missionary, the horrible scenes 
of disaster that had dogged us and finally destroyed 
us; and lying helpless on my bed, with the murmur 
of the it camp round about me, all these difficulties, 
ee the vividness of my imagination, had 
to be struggled against in some way, and forthwith I 
lost myseli in imaginary scenes of endless fights and 
strategies along the base of the snowy se seizing 

isa 








climbing hi slope and repelling the enemy with auch 
spleen ¢! i 


entrusted to our charge, Or acenes of combat 

underwood of the tropic forest, utterly heedless of the 
divine beauty of tropic flowering, cool shndes and merry 
streamlots, and absorbed only in the sanguinary necessi- 
ties of the moment. I sometimes worked myself into 
such a pitch of exaltation that a fever came and clouded 
all, and caused me to babble confusedly, and the Doctor, 
gently shaking his head, would have to ndminister an 

inte. 





Nor were these the only bughears raised in my dazed 
mind. Moming after morning came the reports aa 
usual of plots, and seditious circles of men drawing new 
nets of craft to guin something I knew not what, and 


a = il 





RUMOURS AND PLOTS IN THE CAMP. 218 


pleasing their cruel hearts with foretelling the most 
ominous events, Many cau tecint tales Give 
that the rebels were advancing with a soldiery bent on 
destruction, and the number of those deserting the cam) 
hy night grew greater and greater, until I had count 
eighty. And then it was told me that someone was 
most active in disseminating falsehoods and inventions 
of terrible scones of starvation wherein nothing but grass 
would be eaten, and that there was a grand effort to be 
made, because the effect of these tales wus ao widespread 
that something like « panic had seized the people. 

The Pasha discovered one of hia men as being most 
industrious at this evil work, and had had him tried 
and convicted, and sent for a detail of men to shoot 
him os an example. “No detail of Zanzibaris can be 
sent,” T managed to whi to Stair. “Let the Pasha 
ahoot his guilty man with his own people. If he needs 
a guard for protection, let him have the men, but we 
came to save life, not to destroy it.” And ak his own 
people could not be trusted to execute such an order, 
the man’s life was spared, 

Then it was told me that one of the Lieutenant- 
Governor's men had shot a friendly native through the 
head, hecause the poor fellow had not been quick enough 
in_collecting fuel to plense the hard-hearted slave. 
“Pat him in echaing,” [ said, “but do not kill him, 
Feed him and fatten him ready for the march, He will 
do to carry a reserve of ammunition.” 

if days there will be few officers left,” said 
ry are all going fast, and our lubour has 
heen in vain.” “Let them go," I replied. “If they do 
‘not wish to follow their Pasha, lot them alone.” 

‘Then came a report that Rehan had taken with him 
eee ee people, with several rifles helonging to us, 

“Nh woll, Stairs, my dear fellow, pick out, forty good 
men, march to the Nyanza You will find the rendez- 
‘vous of these fellows at the Lake Shore camp, Be very 
wary, and let your capture of them be sudden and 
PBccuaEAAGA ring? ther becke, By talking’ our xifleg 
they have made themselves liable.” 






18, 
‘Maaatae 
‘wont 








i} 214 IN DARKEST AFRICA 


{ Fo On the fourth day laver Lieutenant Stairs: 
Bf having made an sso haul _ 
= prisoners, among wi was Rehan, 
A court se aes convened, the nines oa 
a ii me from. rte it = 
it his flight was to le by two days 
exodus of the Soudanese men, women, “ 
that it was a part of a deliberate plan to arm themeelwes 
nt our expense, so that, ou the arrival of Selim Bey, who 
was daily expected, we should be unable to make any 
prolonged defence. It was proved that he had com- 
menced his seditious practices soon after it was known 
that I waa seriously ill; that he had begun his int 
hy publishing the most audacious statements respect 
our cruclties when on the march; how every officer 
and Sondanese would be laden with crushing on 
their heads, that food would be denied them, and they 
would be told to feed on grass The final fall of the 
juatorial Government resulted from the 
falsehoods of an Eeyptian clerk and lieutenant, Officers 
and soldiers of the Pasha were summoned to bear witness 
to what they had heard emanating from this man, and a 
mass of evidence, complete and conclusive, wax farnished 
to prove that Rehan had been guilty of most atrocious 
Practices, subversive of all discipline, and endangering 
the safety of the Expedition and its charge. It was 
also proved that Rehun hud upproprinted several rifles 
from the Expedition, with the intention of joi ing 
Selim Bey, and finally employing onr weapons an 
ammunition against people who had done naught but 
ped atid dnritess $0 iim and, his endl ‘Thinlly, 
he was convicted of abseonding with several women 
Lelonging to the harems of the Egyptian officers, 
Fourth of desertion ; and fifthly, of having shot 
some Faentiy natives between out camp and 
Nyanga, after his flight from camp. The Court ree 
solved that on each specification the man Rehan 
deserved death. 
‘To my suggestion, that possibly a milder sentence, 
such as chaining him, or putting him in a forked pole, 


acl 














REUAN CONDEMNED TO DEATH. 216 


with a box of ammunition on his head, would be prefer- 1609. 
able, the Court was immovable ; and, reviewi cass {lr 
carchully:(f concurred in. the senéence, end ‘ondered) thet at 
all should assemble to hear the charges, the finding, 
and the sentence, 

IT was borne out of my bed into the presence of the 

le, and though to all present I seemed to be fust 

‘ifting into that dark and unknown world whence none 
return who enter, I found strength to address the 
doomed man. 

“Rehan, we ure both before God; but it is written 
in the book of Fate that you shall precede me to the 
grave, You are a wicked man, unfit to breathe the air 
among men. I found you the slave of Awash Effendi, 
and I'made you a freeman, and the equal of any soldier 
here. Iremember when, in the forest, our friends were 
dying duily from weakness and hunger, I asked you to 
assist in carrying the ammunition Gore Pasha; you 
freely consented to do so for wages. When the men 
recovered their eres! were relieved of your loud. 
When you were ill, I looked after you, and supplied you 
with that which made you well. You know that all our 
sufferings were undergone while carrying ammunition 
for you and your friends. When the work was done, 
your heart béeame black, and you have daily “ought to 
do ux harm. You have wished to rob us of the means 
of returning home; you have tried your best, in the 
malice of your heart, to wrong us; you have vilified us; 
you have entered the houses of the Bryan and stolen 
their women, and you huve mui our native 
friends who have given us food gratuitously for the last 
three months; for all of which you deserve death by 
suspension from that tree, A number of men, who were 
your friends at one time, have tried your case patiently 
and fairly, and they anewer me with one voice that you 


“ Now, [ will give you one more chance for life. Look 
around on these men with whom you have eaten and 
drunk. If there is any one of them who will plead for 
you, your life is yours, 


216 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


“What say you, Soudanese and Zanziburiv? Shall 
this man have life or death ¢” 

“Death 1" eame from every voice unanimously. 

“Then Yallah rabunat Depart to God" 

The Soudanese with whom he had rice and 





fraternally lived in the forest briskly stey forward 
and seized him, and the Zanzibaris flung the fatal noose 
around his neck, A man climbed the tree, and tossed 
the rope to a hundred pair of willing hands, and at the 
signal marched away, and Rehan was a silent 
hanging between earth and heaven. 

e the word, Mr, Stairs, throughout the camy 
among the Pasha’s people, and bid them come and 
at the dead Rehan, that they may think of this serious 
scene, and please God mend their ways.” 

Thad a relapse that night, and for days afterwards it 
appeared to me that little hope was left forme. Then 
my good doctor was stricken sorely with # pernicious 
pict fever which has so often proved fatal on the 

n seaboard of the Atlantic. For many a day he was 
also an object of anxiety, and the Pasha being a medical 
practitioner in past times most kindly bestirred himself 
to assist his friend. Then Mr, Mounteney Jephson fell 
#o seriously ill thut one night his life was despaired of, 
He was said to be in a state of collapse, and our priceless 
doctor rose from his sick bed and hastened with his men 
supporting him to the side of his sick comrade, and 
ate restoratives, and relieved our intense anxieties, 

Vefore retiring, he called upon me to relieve my 
spasins. ‘Thus passed these dreadful days. 

On the 29th of April I was able to sit up in bed, and 
from this date to the 7th of May there was a ateady but 
sure improvement, though the tongue which indicated 
the inflammation of the mucous membrane of the stomach 
appeared to be obstinately unpromising. 

May 3r ‘Two packets of letters were brought to me 
by natives in the neighbourhood of the Lake shore, and 
aa they were in Arabic I sent them to the Pasha. Pre- 
sently the Pasha appeared and demanded an interview. 

wn he was seated he informed me that there had 








| 


al 


ILLNESS OF MYSELF AND OFFICERS. ay 


been n mistake, for one of the packets was a mail for 
Wadelai despatched some days from our camp, 
while the other packet was thé mail from Wadelai. 

‘As I was not aware of any mail having been sent away 
since we had arrived at Mazamboni’s, such a packet 
must have been sent secretly, and most probably with 
sinister intentions to us, “Therefore, Pasha, as we are 
evidently in a state of war with your evil-minded 
people, T beg you will be good enough to open the 
esc and read a few of those letters to me, for you 

everything is fair in war.” 

The first letter was from Shukri Agha, and was a 
kindly letter to his friend Selim Bey. "There was not a 
syllable in it that was otherwise than sterling honesty, 
and honest hopes af an early: meeting. 

The second was from Ibrahim Effendi Elham, a 
captain who was in the camp. It said, “I hope you 

ll send us fifty soldiers as soon ax you receive this 
Iran We ress started, and are now waiting for wae 

jays here. iy you, in the name of God, not to 
sending these Sify ears fees tone help us, 
we can delay the march of the Expedition in many ways, 
but if you came yourself with 200 soldiers we could 
obtain all you and I wish, Our friends are anxiously 
expecting news from you every day. The necessity is 
urgent,” 

“That is a discovery, Pasha! Now are you satisfied 
that these people are incorrizible traitors t” 

« Well, [atoutd not have expected this of Ibrahim 
Effendi Elham. [ have been constantly kind to him, 
As for Selim Bey, T cannot see what he can want,” 

eee ce He “ae ges aes wish 
to go to Egypt. Even Selim Bey, despite all his pro- 
mises, never FP eectled to proceed to Egypt. They were 
willing to accompany you until they reached some pro- 
mising land, where there was abundance of food and 
cattle, and removed from all fear of the Mahdista; they 
then would tell you that they were tired of the march, 
that they would dic if they procecded any farther, and 
you, after conferring with me, would grant them ammu- 


ros 

Biay 3. 
Sarum 
bonis, 


rl 


| 


aa89, nition, and ise to send some more to them by-and- 


218 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 





ammunition would not be sufficient in 


by. Bat 
‘a date eyes, however liberal you were, Their rifles would 


be too few, nothing would satisfy them but all the rifles 
and ummunition and everything: Rete Wait a 
moment, Pusha, and I will revi the whole plot 


to you. 

“After Mr, Jephson received my order last January, 

of course the newa soon spread aa far north as your 
farthest station that I had arrived with all m people 
and stores. They knew, though they aifected to 
believe it, that the Khedive had sent ammunition to 
you. But they were clever enough to perceive that they 
could get nothing from me without an order from you, 
But as Jephson hnd fled and conveyed the news of your 
deposition and imprisonment to me, even an arder would 
scarcely suffice, ‘They therefore, knowing our forgiving 
disposition, come to you, a deputation of them, to profess 
regret and penitence; they kiss your hand and promise 
eared which you accept, and as a sign of amity and 
forgiveness of the past accompany them, and introduce 
them tome. You aak for a reasonable time for them, 
and it is granted. But so strong was the temptation, 
they could not resist stealing a rifle. If they intend to 
go with us, what do they wish to do with this rifle while 
steaming on the Lake? Is it not a useless incum- 
brance to them? T suppose that the varying strength 
and influence of the faetions have delayed them longer 
than they thonght, and we have been saved fram pro» 
ceeding to extremes hy their dissensions, 

“Since [have heard Mr. .Jephson's story, and your own 
account which differs but little from his, and the different 
versions of Awash Effendi, Osman Latif Effendi, and the 
Zouribaris, [have long ago made up my mind what to 
do. These people are not those to whom you may 
preach and reason with effect, their heads are too dense, 
and their hearts are too hardened with lying. They can 
understand only what they feel, and to make such as 
‘these feel they must receive hard knocks, When I had 
thoroughly sounded the depths of their natures my mind 


EXPLANATIONS WITH THE PASIA. 219 


began to discover by what method I could master these 

men. There were half a dozen methods apparently 

feasible, but at the end of each there was an cbatacle in 

my way. 

as zea. could not guess what that obstacle was, 
nm 

“No, I cannot,” 

“This obstacle that presented itself constantly, at the 
end of every well-digested method, was yourselh* 

“Tt How was that?” 

“On the 5th of April you ceased to be so, but until 
then, Tcould not carry any scheme into execution without 
reference to you. You were in our eyes the Pasha still. 
You were the Governor and Commander of these people. 
T could not propose to you to fight them. You believed 
in them constantly, “Each day you said, ‘They. will 
come, but it never came weross your mind to ask your- 
self, “What will they do after they do come, if they find 
they outnumber us three to one t’ “ Had they eome before 
the Sth of April, my plan was to separate from you and 
leave you with them, and form camp, with every detail 
of defence considered, seven or eight miles from you, 
All communications were to be by letter, and guides 

* were to be furnished after we had gone in the advance 
a day’a march, to show you the road to our last camp. 
No force of any magnitude would be permitted to 
approach my camp without a fight. 

“ But after the Sth of April this method was altered. 
T should have been wrong were I to separate from you, 
because I had a proof cient for myself and officers 
that you had no people, neither soldiers nor servants ; 
that you were ulone. I proposed then as propose 
now; should Selim Bey reach us, not to allow Selim 
Bey, or one single soldier of his force, to approach my 
Ber with arms. Long before they approach us we 

be in position along the track, and if they do not 
ground arms at commund—why, then the consequences 
will be on their heads, Thus you see thut since the 5th 
of April I have been rather wishing that they would 
come. I should like nothing better than to bring this 








— 


sr 
Maram 
bon 


220 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 
unruly mob to the same state of order and discipline: 
lism, and chronic rebellion. But if they come here 


they must first be disarmed ; their riffes will be 
up into loads, and carried by us, Their camp shall he 


at Teast 500 yards from us,” Each march that removes 


them further from Wadelai will assist us in 
them into a proper frame of mind, and by-and-by 





‘useful to themselves as well as to us’ 
‘The day following our arrival at Mazamboni’s, Shukei 
Agha, Commandant of Mswa, had at length Lee 


ity 
Arriving at Kavalli on the sie he had but ten left; 
on reaching our camp he had but two, hix trumpeter 
wnd flag-bearer. All the rest had deserted their captain. 
Tt i# needless to comment on it, 

It is now the 7th of May. I hear this evening that 
there is quite a force at Lake Shore Camp. Prepurn 
tions for departare have been made during the last four 
days, We will start to-morrow, We have been in this 
country since the 18th of January—110 daya. If this 
force proposes to follow us, they can casily overtake 
auch a column as ours, and if they impress me that they 
are really desirous of accompanying us, we will not be 
averse to granting them some more time. 

On the 7th of May I requested Lieutenant Stairs to 
Dury twenty-five cases of ammunition in the ground~ 
floor of his house, in order that if the rebel officers 
appeared and expressed earnest penitence, and begged 
to be permitted to stay at Mazamboni’s, they might 
haye means of defence, © Mr. Stairs performed thie duty 
thoroughly and secretly. 

May 8th.-—As I was too weak to walk more than 
fifty yards, I was placed in a hammock, and was borne 
to the front to ne the column, We advanced west~ 

aw few miles; then, abandoning our old route to 
the forest, turned southwards by a well-trodden track, 
and travelled along the base of the western slope of the 
group of hilla known us Undussuma, We were presently 


4 





RISCUKD KOYPTIANS AMD "VR FAMILIES, 


MAZAMBONTS SERVICES TO UB. 28 


amongst the luxuriant fields, plantain and banana plan- 
fauoas patie village of Bundegunda, ‘The Indian 
corn and beans were very flourishing, and these oex- 
tended far into the fields and hollows of the hills, a 
perfect marvel of exuberant plenty. It made a great 
and favourable impression upon ‘the Egyptians and 
their followora, and we even wondered at the ligions 
fortility of the soil and the happy condition of the dis- 
trict. “One reason for all this extraordinary abundance 
was the protection and shelter from the cold winds 
blowing from the Lake. 

An Sate march beyond the limits of the eulti- 
vation of Bundegunda, through other fields of equal 
fertility and luctiveness, we formed camp, or rather 
located ourselves, in the village of Bunyambiri, which 
Mazamboni had caused to be abandoned for our neces 
sitios, y. 

As Mazamboni escorted us with 300 of his own men, 
and was with us in person, free permission was given to 
euch member of the column to range at will among the 
plantations and fields, ‘The people thus literally feasted 
on the ripe fruit of the banana, and the new beans, 
yams, aweet potatoes, colocassia, &e. In return for his 
tervices und hospitality, Muzamboni received forty hend 
of cattle and sixteen tusks of ivory, averaging 52 Ibs, 
each. To my shame, however, the chief complained 
that his people were being detained ax slaves, and 
Lieutenant Stairs and his brother officers hud to escort 

jim round the villages, to discover and restore them 
to him. This was so very Egyptian, however, to con- 
sider every service performed as their due, for some 
virtues and graces which, though possibly innate in 
them, remained hidden so long. 

the afternoon three soldiers, accompanied by 
Ayoub Effendi, an Egyptian clerk, made their appear- 
ance with letters from Selim Bey. They bring an 
extraordinary budget of news, which will bear being 
related, as it is only one more final proof of how utterly 
Jost to all sense und reason were the officers and soldiers 
of the Equatorial Province, and how utterly incapable 


IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


224 
asso. they were to appreciate the nature of their late Pasha 
tide Fadl el Mulla Bey and. his party 
ey 0 t Fay fulla a 
peace jor a time to be consenting to all orders 
received from Emin Pasha and myself through Selim 
Bey Mator, and apparently busied themselves with the 
preparations for departure. Selim Bey had transported 
ull the garrison of Dufilé to Wadelai by the steamers 
Khedive and Nyanza, in doing which he had broken 
hia promise to ns, and disregarded the ordera to which, 
when delivered to him, he swore obedience to the letter, 
Tt will be remembered that he had been instructed to 
begin the transport of the people from Wadelai to our 
lake Shore agit thut we might assist the people with 
the luggage to the platean, while the transport on the 
Lake by steamers would continue, and at the same time 
the garrisons of the northernmost stations could march 
with their families and concentrate at Wadelai Thus 
we had idly waited from the 25th February until the 
8th May in the neighbourhood of the Lake, » period of 
ninety-two days, for the appearance of some of them, a& 
a proof that they were really in earnest in their wish to 
depart with us, 

Vhile Selim Bey was thus carrying the troops and 
their families from the lower stations to Wadelai, he 
was unwittingly strengthening the force of the opposite 
faction, that of Fad! el Mulla Bey, and they fee no 
sooner jomed their numbers to him than he resolved to 
throw off the mask. In the dead of night he marched 
his troops to the magazines, and, possessing himself of 
all the ammunition stored there, left Wadelai and pro» 
ceeded north-west to the country of the Makkaraka, 
When Selim Bey woke next morning, he found his 
following to consist of 200 officers, soldiers, and clerks, 
the maguzines empty, and no ammunition remaining 
but the forty rounds per head which had been dis- 
tributed to his soldiers a few days previously. Bitterly 
curaing his fate and his misfortune, he commenced 
embutking his people on board the steamers, and then 
departed for Mswa, where he arrived on the 22nd of 








a a 


LETTERS FROM 8KLIM BEY. 225 
April, to remove south us far us possible from all 


1260, 
of the Mahdists. He had still abundance of time, if his *#** 


crass mind could only realise his position. Tn an hour 
he could have obtained fuel suilicient from the abandoned 
station, and. might easily have arrived at our Lake 
Shore camp in nine hours steaming. On the 7th May 
he bethinks himself of our Expedition and of his Pasha, 
and dictates one letter to us, which when read by us, 
ea provokes a smile, 

t says,“ We wish to know why you convert Eeyptian 
officers and soldiers into beasts of burden. It hus been 
reported to us that you have cruelly Inden all with 
baggage, and that you convert the,soldiers into 
This is most shameful, and we shall strictly inquire 
into it.” 

Another letter was of very different tenor, It 
related the treachery of Fad! el Mulla, by whom he 
had been duped and abandoned, and begging us to 
wait for him and his people, a8 absolute ruin stared 
them in the face. They hind but forty cartridges each, 
and if Kabba Rega attacked them, they must be 
inevitably destroyed. 

The soldiers were called, and they gave us the details, 
‘Twenty soldiers had arrived at Mazamboni’s, but only 
these three had volunteered to follow us. They also 
pleaded most ubjectly for a further delay, The Pusha 
and I exchanged looks. 

“But, my friends,” I asked, “ how can we be sure that 
Selim Bey intends coming after all 7" 

“He will he sure to do so this time.” 

“Bat why is he waiting at Mswa! Why not have 
come himself with his steamer to the Lake Shore camp? 
Tt is only nine hours’ journey.” 

© He heard through some deserters that you had gone 





“<It might have been ensy for him to have overtaken 
such a hig caravan as this, with the few people whom 
he leads.” 

“But everything is going wrong, ‘There are too 
many counsellors with Selim Bey, and the Egyptian 

VOL, 1. wb 


226 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


tsa. clerks fill his ears with all kinds of stories. He is 
AU % honest in his wishes to leave the Jand, but the others 
mute, bewilder us all with their falschoods,” 

“ Well, we cannot stay here to await Selim Bey, 1 
will go on slowly—a couple of hours a day. 1 must 
keep these people marching, otherwise the Pasha will be 
left alone, Ven we have crossed the Semliki River, we 
will choose a place on the other side a few days, and 
then move slowly again for a day or two, and halt, If 
Selim Bey is serious in his intentions, he will soon aver- 
haul us; and, besides, when we reach the river we will 
send him a guide that will enable him to travel in four 
days what will take us twelve days. You will cm 
letter from the Pasha to him, explaining all this, But 
you must take care to be kind to the natives, otherwise 
they will not help you.” 

Among our Egyptians there was one called Ali Effendi, 
‘a captain, who complained of heart disease. He 
been ailing for months, He had nine men and nine 
women servants, and, in addition to these, twelve carriers 
wore allotted to him. His baggage numbered twenty 
loads, He could not travel 100 yards; he had also » 
child of six yeara that was too amall to walk. He re- 

juired. six carriers more, and there was not one to be 
obtained, unless I authorised levying carriers by force 
from the natives, an act that would have to be repeated 
day by day, We persuaded this man to return, as a few 
days’ march would finish him, As he would not return 
without his family of fifteen persons, we consigned them 
to the charge of the couriers of Selim Bey, who would 
escort him back to their chief. 

The guides promised to this dilatory and obtuse 
Soudanese colonel were despatched, ‘according to 

uise, with a letter from the Pasha; and though 
we loitered, and halted, and made short jonmeys of 
between one and three hours’ march for a month longer, 
this was the last communication we had with Selim Bey, 
What became of him we never discovered, and it is use~ 
less to try to conjecture. He was one of those men with 
whom it was impossible to reason, and upon whose 


a sel 


SELIM BEY. 227 


understanding sense has no effect. He was not wicked _1n09. 
nor designing, but so stupid that he could only compre- ™# ® 
hend an order when followed by a menace and weighted smut. 
with foree; but to a man of his rank and native 
courage, no such order could be given. He was there- 

fore abandoned as a man whom it was impossible to 
persuade, and still less compel. 


— 


228 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


CHAPTER XXVIL. 
EMIN PASHA—A sTUuDY. 





‘and pationeo—Afbr 

18 Monks taf bo bis ows resourese—Emin' an anual ex oration 
Goerosness of what the Emperor Hadrian wrote ofthe E 
‘Pig olay of Benin atrugpis with 
1e86-—De. Jmbar takes Emnn's despatches (0 Zan tar tn 1380 * 
Kubba Roga x deo iy of Emin—The true position of Kimin 
Pushe doin teat hy ty Us showing that vet 

ible—Two doctuments (one from Ontn ‘other 
Fem Omar Balsh) recived from Si Frunels Gren the ables 


Now that we have actually tamed our backs to the 
Equatoria, and are “homeward bound” with Emin 
Pasha, Captain Casati, and « few hundreds of fugitives 
in company, let us look back upon the late events, 
and try to discover the causes of them, and in what 
light we may teathfully regard the late governor. 
‘When Iwas commissioned, while yet a very young 
man, for the relief of David Livingstone, the missionary, 
Thad no very fixed idea as to what manner of man he 
was, The newspapers described him as worthy of the 
Christian world’s best regard ; privately men ps 
strange things of him. One, that he had married an 
African princess, and was comfortably domiciled in 
Africa ; another, that he was something of a misanthrope, 
and would take care to maintain a discreet distance from 





——<— jp =| 





EMIN PASHA. 229 


any Enropoan who might he tem to visit him. 
Not knowing whom to believe, eeeeist to him 
with indifference, ready to take umbrage, but 1 

from him in tears. The newspapers were right 

cause. 

In the instance of Emin Pasha, the newspapers, in- 
ee by travellers who were «1 to know him, 
described # hero, a second Gordon, « tall, military-looking 
figure, austere in manners, an amateur in many sciences, 
who, despite the universal misfortune hovering over a 
large part of North-Central Africa, maintained evenness 
of mind, tranquillity of soul, and governed men and 
things so well that he was able to keep the Mahdi and 
his furious hordes at bay; that he had defeated his 

vals several times, but that so severe und desperate 
been his resistance that he had almost exhausted 


men as Stairs, Jephson, Nelson, Parke, Barttelot, Jame- 
son, and many hundreds of eager applicants for member- 
sup. Junker said his danger was imminent; that the 
Pasha must yield before the overwhelming forces arrayed 
inst him, if not soon relieved. We scemed to feel 
tit was true. On board the steamer while at sea, 
and during our journey up the Congo, within the camp 
at Yambuya, while presing on through the sullen 
shades of the endless forest, until we st on the v 
of the plateau—nay, until we stood on the shore of 
Nyanza, the one fear that had sessed us was that, 
notwithstanding every effort, we should be also too late. 
‘Then only, when the natives on the Lake side averred, 
to our eager and insistent enquiries, that they knew of 
no white man or steamer being on the Lake, were we 
fempted to utter our suspicions. But it was yet too 
early to declaim ; the overland couriers from Zanzibar 
might have been delayed, the steamer may have foun- 
dered soon after Junker's departure, and Emin may 
eae been unable to reach the south-west end of the 
ce 


7 


280 IN DABKKST AFKICA. 


After an absence of nearly four months we.were 
on the Luke shore, There were letters awaiting us 
him. He had heard « rumour by necident of our arrival, 
and had steamed down to the south-west end of the Lake 
to verify it, It was only nine hours distant from his 
szouthernmost station, and this lad been his first visit, 
‘The effect was excellent, but it was a great pity that he 
had not conformed to the request sent hy couriers at #0 
much expense from Zanzibar, For the mere number of 
lives saved it would have been better; we will say 
nothing of the fatigue and suffering endured by ua 
during the four months, for we were vowed to that, and 
to the uttermost that he would demand and our mission: 
would exact, Still we said nothing. 

We were twenty-six days together after the meeting, 
During this period we discovered that on some few points 
we had been misinformed. ‘The Pasha was not a tall 
military figure, nor was he by any means a Gordon. He 
was simply Emin Pasha, with @ greatness peculiar to 
himself, He was like unto none that we had met before, 
but he was like unto some, perhaps, that we had 
read of. 

We know nothing positively detracting from our high 
conception of him. What we saw was entirely in hi 
favour. We witnessed what we conceived to be a high 
state of discipline among the troop ‘esaw the steamers, 
and the admirable state they were in ; we thought we saw 
evidences of a strong civilising and ruling influence ; we 
obtained specimens of the cloth his people had manufne- 
tured out of cotton grown by themselves ; we had a plenti- 
ful supply of liquor distilled from fermented millet; he was 
exquisitely clean in person: prim, precise, withnl courteous 
in manner; he was extremely kind and affable, aecom- 

Nished in literature, an entertaining conversationalist, a 
devoted physician, an altogether gentle man, whom to 
know was to admire, Hal we parted with him at this 
time we should have come away from his presence simply 
charmed with him. No, decidedly he was not a Gordon ; 
he differed greatly from Gordon in some things—as, 
for example, in his devotion to science, in his careful 











MIN PASHA. 231 


attention to details, in his liberal and charitable views of 
men and things, in his high desire to elevate and instruct 
men in pmotical usefulness, and his nable hopefulness of 
the land which was the scene of his efforts, 

But while we admired him, a sus} 
our minds that there was somethi xplicable about 
him. He sent a clerk and an ptian lieutenant to 
speak with me, ‘To my amazement they roundly abused 
him, Bach word they uttored they emphasized with 
hate and inde#eribable scorn, 

‘Then 4 Soudanese captain related to me the story of a 
revolt of the Ist Battalion which had taken place soon: 
after Dr, Junker had parted from him. He had fled 
from their neighbourhood, and had never been near them 
sinee, But the 2nd Battalion, 650 rifles, was faithful to 
him, it was said, xo were the irregulars, 3000 in nomber. 
‘These formed a very respectable force, So long us the 
2nd Battalion and the irregular were loyal his position 
was still firm, 

‘Then the major and several captains of the 2nd Bat- 
tulion were introduced by him to me. After a while he 
said to the major, “ Now, promise me, before Mr, Stanley, 
that vou will grant me forty men for this little station 
that Mr. Stanley advises us ought to be built.” That is 
curious, too, for a Governor, 1 thought, and, try how T 
might to avoid reflecting upon it usa trifle, its strange- 
ness reverted often.to my mind. But, in the absence of 
frank information, it remained inexplicable, 

Then, again, itstruck us all that an extreme indecision 
marked the Pasha’s conduct. Of course, us we were 
unable to explain it, our sympathies undoubtedly were 
with him. We did not ae the Ist Battalion, but 
if the 2nd Battalion and the irregulars were all loyal to 
him, and were yet firm in their resolution to remain in 
the country, it would have required a heart of stone to 
have abandoned them. ‘That the few Bgyptians who 
were involved in restless intrigue against him wished to 
so home was of no importance. The Pasha led us to 
believe that he would be glad of their departure, But. 
if the majority of the troops were loyal, and preferred 









7 


232 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


‘Equatoria to t, and he loved his work, where then 
was the cause of indecision ? 

If Egypt intended to cast him off, what matter need it 
ee Sav, sites offer of £12,000 annual sub. 
sidy, and £1500 to reimplace te 

Graf exype, only waa oliectionalle, ined exile 
portion of Equatoria under English auspices would be 
preferable, there was he alternative with superior advan- 
pagan ee Seae communication and certain support. 

speaking of the troops—the 2nd Battalion and 
irregulars—Emin Pasha was confident in their loyalty 
aaah always stout in his declarations that they woul 
follow him if he elected to serve under English auspices 
in Equatoria, He also said that it was by far the most 
preferable offer made to him. Well, then, admitting that 
the troops are loyal to him, that they would follow him 
anywhere, and that the offer is agreeable to himself— 
why this indecision ? 

‘@ were compelled to retrace that weary journey to 
Banalya, and returning to Fort Bodo to make double 
marches thence to the Ituri, and arriving at the Nyanza 
for the third time, after an absence of eight and a half 
months, we discovered that the object of our solicitude 
was prisoner, and that all the troops reputed loyal, and 
in whom he had such implicit faith, were rebels, and 
had deposed him! This news wasn painful shock and 
@ grievons surprise to ux. But was it a surprise to him ? 

When we come to glance over his letters, and study 
them with the knowledge we now have, it transpires 
that in many of them he hints at troubles and dissen- 
sions among his troops, but led by his sanguine opti- 
mistic nature they were regarded too slightingly by us. 
People at home believed that they were but temporary 
ebullitions of discontent. We in Africa knew only that 
the Ist Battalion were implicated. Dr. Junker had 
not even deemed them of sufficient importance to 
mention—he only expressed a doubt that Emin would 
abandon his civilising mission and relegate himself to 
uacless life in Egypt as a retired Pasha, hence the 
doubt implied in the Khedive’s letter : “ You may take 


——————— 


BMIN PASHA. 283 


advantage of sie aa e escort, Py eed ne if you 
decline on remain in Africa on your own 

msibility ut Mr. Jephson, who is nasociated 

Emin during our absence, uo sooner finds himself 
Gioia ee military circles of the Province thin it 
strikes him that the Pasha has kept us in ignorance of 
the “ true state of affairs.” ‘The dissatisfaction of Mr, 
Jephson culminates when he finds himaelf a pri- 
soner, und finds leisure to pon der upon the unhappy 


Eien as the ining amie i or a raavenad erase a own 


may be forgiven when I find by indisputable rae 
this might have been averted by the Scenes 
frankness and less reticence on the Pasha’s pm 

For had the Pasha informed me that a eat not 


lead his troops to Egypt, nor need the abet aes cr ‘le 





offered him, nor accept th sition under 
auspices, because his troops wd long 
allegiance and had hecome chronically di oval, and that 
he really an nob depend see any one eat 
them, something else might have been propo: Tt 
could not have heen a difhcult matter to have ee 
every station in detail and reduced one after another to 
awholesome dread of authority. It needed only firmness 
and resolution on the part of the Pasha. Had we 
begun at Mswa we should ee Seon sixty soldiers led ms 
Shukri Agha, who has as yet not been implicated in any 
disloyal act. These could have heen embarked with our 
300 on board the steamer, and we could huve advanced 
upon Tungnru. In thirty minutes that station might 
have been settled, the disobedient shot, and marching with 
the prestige of uthority and victory, Wadelat would 
have succumbed without the loss of a man except the 
ringleaders; and the other stations, hearing of these 
successive measures, would soon have been so terrified 
that we should have heard of nothing but capitulation 
here, The Madhi's troops bemg at one end of 
the Tine of stations and a resolute column advancing 
from the other end, these rebels would have had no 
other option than surrender to one or the other. 


— 


234 IN DARKEST AFRICA, 


But supposing that such a course had been 
of what re may well ask, would all ee 
been? Emin Pasha has been reinstalled in his 
and we must of necessity retire, What, then? Ina few 
months he is again in terrible straits for want of 
resources, and pcoeine eal for £30000 ee a new ex- 

lition is made to be repeated year year, at 
ee cost of life and immense sacrifices ; for a land 
so distant from the sea, and surrounded by warlike 
peoples and other disadvantages, that were ita soil of 
silver dust it would sarcely pay the transport. Yet if 
Emin Pasha had ermal his desire to embark upon 
such an enterprise, and heen firm in his resolution, it was 
not for ua to question the wisdom of noceeding, but 
to lend the ri Is bar unl aoe wish rood I. 

Was it a delusion on the Pasha’s part, or was it his 
intention to mislend us? T believe it was the former, 
caused by his extraordinary optimism and his ready 
faith in the external show or affectation of obedience, 
Even the crafty Hgyptians had become penetrated with 
a high sense of their power by the facility with which 
they gained pardon for offences by ostentatious and 
obsequious penitence, Is this too harshly worded # 
Then let me say in plain Anglo-Saxon, that I think 
his good nature was too prone to forgive, whenever 
his inordinate self-esteem was gratified, The cunnin; 
people knew they had but to express sorrow and rat 
to make him relent, and to kiss his hands to cause him 
to forget every wrong. There was therefore too little 
punishing and too much forgiving. This amiability was 
extremely susceptible and tender, and the Egyptians 
made the most of it. The Yakee! had cause to Dead it 
Awash Effendi, major of the 2nd Battalion, suggested to 
the rebels, by a letter which I believe the Pasha still 

, that he should be made the Mudir instead of 
Fimin, yet the Pasha never even reproached him, Agra 
Bifendi declared the Khedive’s letter to be forgery, but 
never a rebuke passed the tips of the Pasha, and Agra 
was conducted to the sea safely, 

The virtues and noble desires for which we must in 

















a el 


EMIN PASH. 285 


him, Any man striving for the sake of goodness to do 
what in him lies to deserve the sweet ay of 
conscience hecomes armoured with a happy indifference 
of all else, and herein lies the Pasha’s merit, aud whieh 
made hia company so grateful to us when the necessity 
for violent action ceased to vex him. We learned more 
of his character from his manner than from words. 
That melancholy shake of the head, the male hand, 
the com) calin gravity of features, the upturning 
eyes, und the little shrug, seemed to say to us, “* What 
is the use? You sce Lam resigned. 1 am adverse to 
violence ; let it be. Why force them? They surely 
ought to have seen Sa these many years that 1 
sought only their welfare. If they reject me, ought [ to 
impose myself and my ideas on them against their 
will” He never admitted so much, but we are free 
to construe these symptoms Soatine to our lights. 

It is probable that his steady and loving devotion to 
certain pursuits tending to increase of knowledge, and 
the injured eyesight, unfitted him for the exercise of 
those sterner duties which appeared to ua the cireum- 
stances of his sphere demanded. But then we cannot 
blame him because he loved scientific studies more 
than the duties of government, ar because his tastes led 
him to value the title of M.D. higher than the rank of 
Pasha, or because he was in danger through a cataract 
of losing his eyesight altogether. If the page of a book 
had to be brought within two inches of his fuce it was 
physically impossible for him to observe the moods on 
u man's face, or to judge whether the eyes flashed scorn 
or illumined loyalty, 

Whatever may have been our own views of whatought 
tohave been done we have always a high respect for him. 
We cannot, at a moment when his own fate lies trembling: 
on the balance, but admire him when we see him availin; 
himself of every opportunity to increase his store of 
Jacuatrine shells, or tropic plants, eager for the possession 
of « strange bird without regard to its colour or beauty, 


— 


| 


286 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


as ready to examine with interest a new species of rat as 
he is in the measurements of a human skull, Ifa great 
hawk-moth or a maura dente or a typhlops be 
brought to him, he with fongets the court-martial 
that is to decide his sentence, and seems to be in- 


lifa at Khartoum. When 
we learn all about him, and begin to un 
him, though wondering at these strange vagaries of 
humin nature, we are only conscious that the man is 
worth every sacrifice on our part. 
We cannot proceed by foree to save him from himself, 
and rudely awake him out of his dream, without his 
ission. His position forbids it—our commission 
not require it. ‘To us he is only an honoured 
est expectant, to whom rudeness is ont of place, 
‘ithout request for help, we are helpless. 

m our point of view we observe the Pasha. serene 
and tranquil, encircled by wrangling rebels, and yet all 
a apparently unconscious of the atmosphere of 

ly in which he lives—at least more inclined to 
resignation than resistance. We feel that were we in 
his place, we would specdily upset every combination 
against nel are confident that only one short resolute 
struggle is necessary to gain freedom and power, Bat 
regarding him absorbed in his delusion that the fawning 
obsequiousness of his perfidious followers and troops 
means devotion, and seeing him enmeshed hy treachery 
and fraud, and yet so credulous us to believe this to be 
fidelity, we are struck dumb with amazement, and can 
Tut turn onr eyes towards one another, questioning and 
wondering. For it was our misfortune, that, say what 
we would, we could not inspire in him « sense of our 
conviction that his case was pee and that his 
people had cast him off utterly. We could not tell him 
that his men looked down on him with contempt as a 
“hind collector,” that they thonght he showed more 
interest in beotles than in men; that they only paid 
him the externala of homage because they thought he 








= 


EMIN PASHA. 237 


was pleased and satisfied, We conld not tell him all 
this; but Nelson, who hated deceit, would tell him in 
plain, blunt terms, thut he wus wrong in his beliefs, 
Bnd Perko would discoorage them and Jéphacn would 
argue with him, and Stairs would give him open proof, 
But as often a3 these energetic young Englishmen, out 
of pure friendship and pity, w attempt to warn him, 
the Pasha was: pt to extenuate their offences, 
exouse the malice exhibited by his officers, and dis- 
couraged the efforts of his frien What each felt on 
returning from one of these profitless interviews had 
better be left unwritten, 

He would say, “ But | know my people better than 
you can possibly know them. I have thirteen years’ 
acquaintance with them, against as many wecks that 
you have.” 

The retort which we might have given to him was 
crushed under a silent fuming, for he was still the 
Pasha! We might have said,“ Aye; but, Pusha, you 
know, you find more interest in insects than in_ men. 
You are interested in the anatomy of a man, we in the 
soul. You know something of his skull, but we can feel 
the pulse, and we are certain that your faith in these 
pees usr sce and that in the excess of this faith 

ies folly.” 

Yet i the fervour of his belief in their imaginary 
fidelity, and the warmth of his manner, there was a 
certain nobility which deterred us from argument. His 
unwarying trustfulness was not convincing; but it 
deepened our regard for him, and it may be that he 
imbued us with a hope that, though invisible to ua, 
there remained some good in them. 

We dare not treat these features of a trustful, loving 
nature like that of Emin Pasha with an insolent levity. 
He is a man, as I have said, eminently lovable, and were 
it only for the pleasure we have oftentimes received in 
his society, he deserves that what may be said of him 
shall beds livered with charity nt least. For the high 
though impossible hopes entertained hy him, and for 
the strenuous industry with which he endeavoured to 


288 IN DARKEST AFRICA, 


realize them, he deserves the greatest honour and 


frwe will only consider the accident which by it 
‘ him to Khartoum, and the rank and position he 
filled, and the manner he rose from doctor to a 
at Lado, to that of Governor of African Equatoria, we 
need not wonder that his nature and taste remained 
unchanged. The story of Gordon's trouble in the: 
Soudan has never been written, and it never will be. 
Gordon is a name that English people do not cure to 
examine and define too closely. Otherwise, I should 
like to know why there were so few English officers with 
him. [should be curious to discover why such as had 
an opportunity of working with him did not care to 
met their stay in the Soudan. I am_ inclined to 
ve by my own troubles on the Congo that his must 
have been great—perliaps greater ; that not one of the 
least of his troubles must have been the difficulty of 
finding good, fit, serviccuble, and willing men. In Emi 
Pasha he meets with a man who, though a German and 
a doctor of medicine, is industrious, civil, ready, and 
obliging. Had T met Emin on the Congo, those qualities 
Goenka reediared him to sod, aa thes oase 
appreciated by Gordon. ‘Those qualities are much rarer 
than editors of newspapers imagine. Out of three 
hundred officers on the Congo, I can only count ten who 
d them, who by mere request would seize on 
their duties with goodwill, and perform them. How 
many did Gordon have? “Emin was one of the best 
and truest. 

Now Emin loved botanizing, ornithology, entomology. 
studied geology, made notes upon ethnology, 
meteorvlogy, and filled note-book after note-book with 
his observations, and at the same time did not neglect 
his correspondence. I know the courtesy with whieh he 
would write to the Governor-General. 1 can imagine 
how the latter would be pleased with receiving 
Tettors—procise, careful, methodical, and polite. - There- 
fore Emin is pushed on in bis African career 


from 
storekeeper to chief of station, then envoy to Uganda, 


ee =i 


EMIN Pasi. 289 


then offered a secretaryship, then envoy of Gordon, then 
viee-king to the astute and subtle Kabba Rega, and 
finally Governor of Equatoria. 

In the course of his promotions, Emin shows he is 
ambitions, He wants seeds for the fields; he applies 
to Gordon for them, and his reply is, ““T don't want you 
for a gardener; [sent you to govern. If you don’t like 
it, come away.” A proud young Englishman would 
have taken him at his word, descended the Nile, and 


plotogmaph apparatus, and reeves, 'T sent you to the 


Twill pee duty.” Nor does he bother the Governor- 

th complaints that he never gets his mails in 
due time, or of the provisions sent there to him. What 
a valuable man he waa! Tle showed consideration and. 
patience, and Gordon aireeeatet all this, 

By-and-by came trouble. After 1883 he is left to 
his own resources, The people obey the Governor 
mechanically, and stations are building, and a quiet 
progress is evident, They do not know yet how soon 
that Cromwell at Khartoum may not ascend the Nile to 
Lado, and examine into the state of affairs with his own 
e Emin Bey, their Governor, is a very mild ruler ; 
hat other one at Khartoum is in the habit of shooting 
mutineers. Therefore, though there are many Arabists, 
and many inclined to that new prophet, the Mahdi, 
among the troops of Emin, they are quiet, But pre- 
sently news leak that Khartoum is fallen, and Gordon 
alain, and all power and stern authority prostrate ; 
then comes the upheaval—the revolt of the First 
Battalion and the flight of Emin to his more faithful 
Irregulars and the Second Battalion, and finally uni- 
versal dissolution of the government. But \in's 
tastes and nature remain unchanged, 

are some things, however, I have wondered at 
in Emin. T have already observed that ho was earnest 
and industrious in making observations upon plants, 





240 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


Pal ohuise wala Teniatias tata 

nipped for geographical exploration ; but T was 
caw ‘staggered when I learned that he had not 
explored Lake Albert. He possessed two steamers and 
two life-honts, and one station at the north-west end of 
the Lake called Tungura, and another ealled Mawa, 
half-way up the west side ; and yet he had never visited 
the southern end of the Lake, examined the affluent at 
the south side, sounded the Luke from the north to 
sonth and east to west; never visited the Ituri River, 
which was only two days’ good marching from Mawa. 
Had he done 40 he would probably have seen the snowy 
runge und left very little for us to discover in that 
district. He had been to Monbutta Land on business 
of his province, where he had vast stores of ivory 
treasured; he had sent soldiers to the edge of Turkan 
territory; he had been twice to Uganda and once to 
Unyoro ; but he had never stey on board his steamer 
for a visit to the south end of the Lake until March, 
1888, when he came to enquire into a report concerning 
our arrival, and then he had steamed back again to his 
stations. 

‘The Emperor Hadrian wrote of the Egyptians that he 
found them “frivolous and untrastworthy, fluttering at 
every wave of rumour, and were the most revolutionary, 
excitable and criminal race in existence.” 

Had he heen present in our camp during our tedions 
sojourn ut Kavalli's, could he have written differently ? 
‘The revolutionary character disclosed to us compel us 
to endorse this description as perfect truth. ‘ Frivolous” 
we know them to be to our cost. “ Untrustworthy :" 
were ever men so faithless as these? “ Fluttering at 
every wave of rumour:” our camp bred rumours as 
the ground bred flies; there were a’ many as the 
chirpings of an aviary ; the least trifle caused them to 
flutter like a brood from under the mother bird. A 
mail from Wadelai caused them to run gadding from 
one circle to another, from hut to hat, from the highest 
to the lowest, emulating the cackle of many hens. 
“Revolutionary :”—“Up with Arabi!” Vive le 


EMIN PASHA, cts 


Mahdi!” “Hurrah for Fadl el Mullah Bey!" More 
power to the elbow of Selim Bey Mator! and “Down 
with all Governments!" And thus they proved them- 
selves un excitable, frivolous, wntruat iy, and criminal 
race which required government by stern force, not: 
lay sentiment and love. 

But relieved from the dread of due penalty and the 
coercive arm of the law by the fall of Khartoum and 
the death of the Governor-General, and recognising 
that their isolation from Egypt gave them eye to 
follow their vain imaginings, they were not long before 
they disclosed their true characters, and revolted ia 
every semblance of authority. Happy was the Pasha, 
then, that the good record he had won in the memories 
of his soldiers pleaded against the excesses to which 
their unprincipled chiefs were inclined, which generally 
follows the rain of government. 

These were the Uo iene in dissimulation, 
adepts in deceit, and pastured in viee—whieh this mild: 
mannered man, this student of science, governed for 
several vears all alone, before any outbreak among them 
occurred, During this portion of his career as Governor 
of Eduatoria only unqualified praise can be given, ‘The 
Leas Saree not all seized with the mania prevalent in 
the Soudan, to uproot every vestine of wuthority. 

To the north, west, and east gathered the Mahdists, 
barring all escape by the Nile and cutting off all 
communication with Khartoum, On the 7th of May, 
1883, the first disaster occurs. Seventy soldiers are 
massacred at El-del station who have been sent to 
reinforce the beleaguered yarrison, which, in its turn, is 
totally destroyed. On the 27th of February, 1884, 
Lupton, the Governor of Bebr-el-Ghaxal, informs him 
that the rest of the inhabitants had rebelled, and on the 
28th of the following month he receives the news of the 
destruction of General Hicks's army. On the 8th of 
oe the news is brought that the tribes of Waddiafen, 

Eofen, Euknah, Kanel, and Fakam were in open 
rebellion, On the 30th of May he ix informed by 
Lupton Bey, Governor of the Babr-el-Ghuzal, that the 

16 


Vou. 11. 


——| 


me IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


Mahdi is within six hours of bis headquarters, and had 
summoned him to surrender his authority and. province, 
and warning him to take immediate for his defence, 
Four days later, Karamalla—who in the meantime, had 
been appointed Governor of Equatoria by the Mali to 
fill his place—wrote to him to deliver up his province 
to him. eae Bey had already been vanquished, A 
committee of six officers having debated this serious 
matter, came to the conclusion that Emin had no other 
option open to him than to surrender. In order to 
rela he expreased hia willingness to conform with 

decision, aud despatehed the judge of their pro- 
yince with some other officers with the declaration of 
his readiness to yield.* 

But on the departure of the Commission, he set about 
fortifying the stations in hia charge, and prepared for 
resistance against Karamalla, then fresh from the eon- 
pet of the Buhr-el-Ghazal. He concentrated troops 
rom the petty stations in the vicinity at Amadi station, 
and strengthened that place against the expected attack 
of that proud chief, and also gathered at headquarters 
a formidable force, At this critical period he was able 
to weed ont the most forward in their desire for sub- 
mission to the Mahdi, and to separate the loyal from the 
disloyal, aud vigorous orders were issued that traitors 
would meet with no mercy at his hands if found com: 
municating with the enemy, Arbeek, Ayak, and Wafi 
Stations are abandoned, and the troops are gathered at 
Amadi, The month following witnesses the struggle 

weding. Some of the principal stations are so well 
fended that the Mahdists suffer repeated losses of 
chiefs and men, while many of the Government officers 
have basely abandoned their posts, and take service with 
Karamalla ; but on the 27th February, 1885, a month 
after the fall of Khartoum, the enemy has surrounded 
Amadi on all sides, and a brisk siege is maintained. 








* Savaral of the officers informed mo that Rmin was alone rosponaihle 
for the offor to tho Mahdi of thesurrender of the province. He certainly 
ignod the document, but I um inclined to believe that he did it for the 
uxpore of decalving: Karamatia, ant his subsequent nets soem to prove 








EMIN Pasha. 243, 


On the first of April, after extraordinary efforts, the full 
of Amadi is announced, with great lows of life, ammuni- 
tion, cannon, small arms, and rockets, After -hearing of 
this disaster, measures are taken for the concentration 
of the foree of the Provinee along the Nile, in order to 
secure means of communication with Egypt vid Zanzibar, 
and Birri, Kirri, Bedden and Rejaf stations are founded, 
and out of the soldiers who have: managed to escape 
with life from the many skirmishes and is in whieh 
een were sogpeed, during Ree) to aioe 
1885) eight companies o! men are 
oe at ssisa sees Bataalion, under the 
command of Major Rehan Agha Ibrahim, On the tat 
of June, after the small faliaice stations havo heen 
abandoned, a sufficient number of officers have been 
collected to form a second Battalion, under the command 
of Major Awash Effendi Montazir, to whom was given 
the command of the southern stations. In his despatch 
of Ist September, 1885, to the Government of Mt, 
we observe near the close of it the first note of discon 
tent with the Major of the First Battalion, He saya : 
“Tho other thing that thin major has dono ik hik sending 200 soldiers 
‘when ft wan too late and. when ‘was fniehed, which ‘hing ho 
did from want of decision and without asking my permission to do so: 
for it the rebels woro trong. nt tt: bere th 
mmmunition, how much moro so wero they after that. But there dim 
badiences have become a mature to these pertons, wr, be, But by the halp 
Of our mereiful an reat God, and by the influence of our Government, 
‘and by the namo of our honourable Sovervign his Highness the Khedive, 
we mere able to preserve the honour of our Government fag up to the 








Yes, the honour of the Egyptian flag has been main- 
tained, after the shedding of * rivera of blood,” after the 
exhibition of noble stout-heartedness, unabated courage, 
and a prudent Fabian generalship, whieh dispirited the 
enemy and animated his troops; he has heen able to 
align hia troops in stations well fenced and fortified, x0 
that the struggle may be prolonged until he can hear 
the wishes of ie Highness the Khedive, and sound his 
plaint in the ears of Europe vit Zanzibar. It is the 
story of this brave struggle that enlisted the sympathy 
of myself and companions, and caused us to press on by 


wr aT 


aut IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


the back door of Africa to lend a helping hand, to resene 
ee or to supply him with the means of 
defence if needed, 

Tn April 1885 he learns “from the poor slave of God, 
Mohammed El Mahdi, the son of Abdullah,” ino letter 
to his friend and Governor Karamalla, the son of Sheik 
Mohammed, to whom may God grunt, cte,, of the death 
of “that enemy to God—Gordon,” and of the assault 
and capture of Khartoum, and that all the Soudan from 
Lado down to Abu Hamad Cataract, is in the hands of 
the Mahdists, and that from the north no hope of relief 
may he expected, He examines his es and 

Aeahe ae r a at west, one he fe 

gt, the of Unyoro, and his tribu 

chiefs. To him he pak Captain Casati as his anneal 
tative or ambassador, Tt is the pr of Kabba Rega 

to be kind to the Governor, He knew him in past 
Years a8 an officer of that active viee-king at Khartoum, 

und was hospitable and friendly to him. He knows not 

as yet of the wonderful changes that have come over 
that region of Africa, and is agora of the rain that 
had overtaken that proud Government whieh had 
dictated laws to him. His African mind is too dense 
to grasp the meaning of this new movement abreast of 
his territory, and_ therefore, fearing to displease the 
Governor, le receives Captain Casati generously and 
with a grand display of hospitality, By-and-by deserters 
cy ch him, conning Egyptians and treacherous 
nese, with their arms and ammunition, and bit by 
bit he discovers the meaning of that fierce struggle, 
and begins to understand that the Government which 
he dreaded was a wreck. 

On the 2nd of January, 1886, Dr. Junker is taken 
across the Albert Lake to Kibiro, a port of Unyoro. He 
ia on his way home after years of travel in Monbutta 
and the Welle basin, He succeeds in reaching Uganda, 
and because of his poverty is permitted to embark in a 
mission bout and proceeds to Usam| at the south end. 
of Lake Victoria, and thence to Zanzibar, taking with 
him the despatches of Emin. It is through this traveller 

















BMIN PASH. 25 


we first learn the real straits that the Pasha is in, and 
the distresses in prospect for him, 

Kabba meanwhile is patient, like an heir- 
expectant. le knows that eventually he must win, 
Day by day, week by week, he sits waiting, He affocts 
generosity to the Governor, permits letters to pass and 
repass between Zanzibar and Equatoria, treats the 
Ambassador with due consideration, and ostensibly he is 
a firm friend ; so much s0, that Emin hus “nothing but 
hearty praises of Kabba Rega.” But about the 13th 
February, 1888, Kabba Rega wakes up. He hears of 
an Expedition close to the Nyunza, and native exaggeru- 
tion has magnified its means and numbers, or 
about the same date that the Relief Expedition is looki 
up and down the waters of the Nyanga for evidences o' 
a white man's presence in the region, Captain Casati is 
seized, his house robbed, and himself expelled with 
every mark of ignominy and almost naked, and from 
this time forth Kabba Regn is a declared enemy, having 
first sealed his enmity in the blood of Mohammed Biri, 
who had been a trusted messenger between Emin and 
the C.M.S. Mission in Uganda. 

‘To the west there is a great broad white blank, extend- 
ing from hia Province to the Congo, of which absolutely 
nothing is known. To the south there is a region 
marked on the map by the same white emptiness, and 
turn which way he will, with a people unequal to the 
task of cutting their way out and Beritg the unknown, 
he has no other nea than waiting to see the effect of 
the discloaures of Junker and his own despatches, 

But in the meantime he is not idle. the defeat 
of the rebels and Mahdists in Makkaraka he has com~ 

led a truce, and is left undisturbed by Karamalla. 

yond Wadelai he has established Tunguru and Mswa 
stations, and though the First Battalion has Peal “fp 
east off his authority, the Second Battalion and the 
Native Irregulars acknowledge, after their way, his 
authority. He superintends agriculture, the planting, 
ising, and manufacture of cotton, travels between 
station and station, establishes friendship with the 





6 AN DARKEST AFRICA. 
ling tribes, and by his tact maintains the 
semblance of good government. 


exercise of temperate justice, a the evil 

roused by the revolution in the He can one 
the hour of revolt, For against his 

influence are arrayed the influences of the of 

First Battalion, of the hundreds of ‘jan empl 

scattered over the whole length of the Province, 

by their insidious counsels, reverse the effect of every 

measure taken the Pasha, and palsy every effort 

made by him. He cannot inaugurate, by the expression. 

of his wish, a new system of dealing with the natives. 


© Tho system has hoon established throughout the Soudan 


of exacting from the natives every species of contribu- 

pan tae flocks, grain, and servants; or, wl 
there is seareity, of Enea ity foree of arme and 
taking what they need from the aborigines. And this 
need, unfortunately, is insatiable ; it has no limit. The 
officers cannot be limited to a certain number; each has 
three or four wives, besides concubines, and these require 
domestic servants for their households. Fadl el Mulla 
Bey’s household requires « hundred slaves—imen, women, 
boys, and girls The soldiers require wives and these also: 
must have servants; and with the growth of the boys 
into manhood there grows new needs, which the natives 
muss satisfy with their women and children of both sexes. 
‘There are 650 men and officers in the First Battalion, 
There are about 





in return there is nothing given to them. We bear of 
8,000 head of enttle being collected on a raid; the 
Pasha admitted that 1,600 beeves and cows was the 
greatest number during his government, But these 
raids are frequent ; cach station must have herds of its 
own, aml there ar fourteen stations Shukri Agha, 





ee 


7 


EMIN PSEA. ur 


Commandant of Mswa, was indefatigacle in . 
these raids, Of course the Pusha found ke ame 
things in his Province. It was an old-established 
custom, a custom that weighs with all the weight of 
fearful oppression on the natives; and, embarrassed as 
he waa by the advance of Karamalla and the disease of 
rebellion that raged like an epidemic in the hearts of 
his own subjects, he was powerless to restrain them. 
But we can oes why the natives, who aes 
for so many years under ptian government, hail 
the appearance of the Mahalsts, and joined them to 
extermmate the panie-stricken fugitives from the eap- 
tured forts of the Provines, en the Congo State 
forgets its duties to its subjects, and sanctions rapine 
nd raiding, we may reat assured that its fall will be as 
sudden ail as certain as that of the Egyptian Govern- 
ment in the Soudan, 

T am not concerned in writing the history of this 
unhappy region, which has been given up for years to 
be the prey of the vilest passions that human nature is 
capable of fecling, but hy these allusions to what I 
personally know [ am able to interest the reader in the 
true position of Emin Pasha, This solitary man was 
engaged in aa impossible a task as was that of Gordon 
when he undertook and set out for Khartoum, in 1884, 
to rescue the garrisons of the Soudan. He did brave 
things, but the bravest portion of his story is when this 
earnest-minded man lives among these lost people, and 
has to endure seeing his subjects robbed and deepolled 
whenever any officer apprehends searcity and resolves 
upon a raiding expedition, He knows exactly what 
will happen ; Knows there will be indiscriminate 
shooting and looting, he knows there will be destruction 
of villages and decimation of the owners; that with the 
captive henda there will be long files of captive women 
and children, and a distribution of the spoil; and yet he 
dares do nothing to thwart these cruel and hard pro- 
ceedings. How can he? He has no cloth or money 
to buy food for all his Lae What answer can he 
make when they demand of him what they must do to 








8 IN DARKEST AFRICA 
li 


ive? Th Hin i eae a SARA 
is useless for him to point to it, They will pa 
to clothe themselvex, and cultivate gardens for kitchen 
vegetubles, because no native understands these things ; 
in for bread, and cattle for beef, the natives 
must se to people nobler than themselves. He is 
io who can think of this work as a wrong, 
has no force to compel men to othor- 
wise, he must needs endure this evil as he endares man) 
others, Good government was therefore imposible. It 
was founded on blood and liation from the very 
beginning, and, like all other Governments which pre- 
it, that were created with similar views, it was 
decreed that it should perish utterly. 

As a fitting conclusion to this Coapten, T append the 
following documents received from Sir Francis Grenfell, 
the Sirdar of it. Those who love to trace effects to 
causes may find in these documents criminating proofs of 
that intercourse with the enemy whieh wus maintained: 
by the rebel officers. ‘They explain what I have asserted. 

prove conclusively that: their object in proceeding 
to the Pasha at Tungura, and imploring his rei 
and promising to reinstate him in power, and wee i 
him to introduce them to me, was for the peer 
consummating the vile plot of betraying us into the 
hands of the Mahdists. ‘thanks to Jephson, who was “a 
chiel takin’ notes,” und to the clumsiness of their acts, 
Omar Saleh did not have the satisfaction of conveying 
that other traveller who had come to Emin,” and whom 
he was so anxious to catch, for exhibition at Khartoum 
—which he may possibly regret more than L 








Laeren Ynox Oman Droxs to The GoveinonGxsenal, SUAKIM 
In the name of the Great God, de. 





EMIN PASHA, 20 


‘they found that the troops of the said Governor, who were of 
Iullltary men and ofeers, had seized tho "with a ho 
ry 





ane 
Heviitands have tulmalived to tho aha, We have taken the non 
‘andl axnmmnition 


wunition which wore there; we also brought the officers and 

ehief lark to the Khatif, who received thom kindly, and now they ara 
waging with him, te handed oral thet Baavere, 

oat ‘ae Rundlo wishos to know what has became of this 


Governor, you. {ait him of thix nee 
* Lancoae a copy of the ler oh our chet in the ‘sont to 
‘weopy of that which Tewslk hud vont to tho maid 


IVERHON, 
wT ela wand you & dovan, rounds! of te, amamaniton, whieh were 


Sister at dagai ol me taadoke oom natn Rs 
Beato” 
“The ammunition sent was Snider ammunition, 
marked 1869, and is in ver good condition, Two 
letters were enclosed. The first of these is recog- 
nised hy his Excellency the Sirdar as being the one 
iven ‘4 Mr. Stanley ey by by his Highness the Khedive on 
is departure from 
“The second i: is a copy of a letter of Omar Saleh to 
the Khalifa, dated 15th October, 1888, and is as 
follows :— 
ay rhere Ea, Toe Stadler the Eyunor i sapings ote 6 Stas 
a ae bits aos are 
bape fond they sis in Ae re ie 


was ot ‘him, and put them both in 


sat losing oat for, asd ithe evans Yn sure 1 onthe 

"All the chiofy of tho Province, with the inbabitants, nre delighted to 
seo us, T have taken all the arms and ammunition, "Whon you have 
‘soon the officers nnd Chiof Clerk, and given them the secossary instruc= 
tions, please sond them back, as'they will bo of great was to-mne.” 

‘True copy. 


(Rd) TR, Winoare, 
W.0, 
Tsj1]V0. 





G. Intell. 


250 IN DARKEST AFRICA, 


CHAPTER XXVIU. 
TO THE ALBERT EDWARD NYANZA, 


Description of the road from Bundegunda—We got a view of the 

‘i poke the tune range--Mareh te Cuisdae- he Putas 
‘oMloire abure the offleer in comoand: which compels a sovero 
onler—Kailgn urges hostilities against Ubobo—Brush with the 
enemy: Cannti's servant, Akili, killed —Deseription of the Rnwenzori 
‘Taog0 as ween from Nbowa—Mr. Jophwon still an invalid—The little 
stownway named Tukabi—Captain Nolson exmmnines the Sombikt for 
& suitable ferry=We tench the Semliki river: description of the 
samno—Uledi and Saat Tato swim across the river for a eanoo—A 
Jani of Worn Sam attack nh—All safoly forried woross tho 2ivor— 
Je the Avamta forest—Our progress to, Pnki-kundi-—We, cone 
‘oross a tow Raundw6, forest aboriginos—Tho Byyptians and their 
followors—Convorsation with Emin Pasha—Unexplored parts of 
Africa Abnndatice of food—Rawenzorl from the xpur of Ugarama— 
‘Pwo native women. give us loeal iformation—We find an old. man 
at Datuma—At Bukoko wo encounter some Manyueme H 
their explaiation—From Bakokoro we arrive at Mtarega, the foot of 
tho Rnwenzori range—Lieut. Staire with wome men explore the 
Mountains of tho Moon—Roport of Liout, Stains exporioncos—The 
Bomiki valley—Tho Rami-lalu valley—The porfeetion of a tropical 
forest Vilage in tho clearing of Cegea-Submission of Ukonu 
shief—Loeal knowledge from our frionds the Wakonju—Deseription 
of the Wakonju trite-—The Semliki river—View of Ruyentort 
from Mtsorn—We onter Muhamba, and next day camp at Karimi— 
‘Capture of nome fat cattle of Rukarw»—'The Zorba of Runcwmd— 
Our fiewt view of Lake Albert Edward Nyanua, 


aso. ‘Tite road to the south, which we now pursued on 
Hy. moving from Bundegunda on the 9th May, skirted the 
gunla. western base of that great bulk of mountain land in- 
habited by the Balegga, and the Bandussuma of Mazam- 
Doni. It crosses cultivated tracts devoted to beans and 
luxuriant sweet potatoes, yams, colocassia, and sugar- 
cane 5 it is hed, A thickly with glorious plantains ; it is 
flanked by humble villages, with cone roofs ; it is buried 
under miniature wildernesses of reedy cane; it dips 


THE TWIN PEAKS OF BUWENZORL 201 
down to clear, limpid rilleta, just escaped from the 
it winds 


bosom of the tall mountains heey above ; i 
in gnaky curves over rich flats we; it runs 
close to the foot of steep slopes, and then starts off 
along smoothly-descending spura. About five miles 
off to the westwurd, or ou our right hand, the forest, 
bluck as night, keeps company with us, We are seldom 
out of sight of the advancing capes and receding baj 
of re. Leather a oe our left, i intimate 
neighbourhood, rise the mighty slopes, steeply 
upward into the greyish ie of an uncertain sky, 
far wway, in solemn lines, like w colossal bai of 
mountains, is ranged the series between each of which 
are deep ravines, narrow and far-reaching recessions, 
formed by ceaselessly-murmuring streams. 

On the morning of this day, Ruwenzori came out 
from its zens of clouds and vapours, and showed its 

ups of and spiny ri resplendent with 
nab ee the blue beyond was as that of 
ocean—a purified and spotless translucence, Far to 
the west, like huge double epaulettes, rose the twin 
peaks which T seen in December, 1887, and from 
the sunk ridge below the easternmost rose sharply 
the dominating and unsurpassed heights of Ruwenzori 
proper, a congregation of hoary heads, brilliant. in 
white raiment; and away to the east extended a 
roughened ridge, like a great vertebra—peak and 
saddle, isolated mount and hollow, until it passed out. 
of sight behind the distant extremities of the rage we 
were then skirting. And while in constant view of it, 
ag T sat upin the fide hammock suspended between two 
men, my plan of our future route was sketched. For to 
the west of the twin peaks, Ruwenzori range either 
dropped suddenly into a plain or aheered away 8.8.W. 
What I saw was cither an angle of u masa or the 
western extremity, We would aim for the base of the 
twin peaks, and pursue our course southerly to lands 
unknown, along the base-line, The guides—for we had 
many now—pointed with their spears vaguely, and cried. 
out * Ukonju” and (giving a little dab into the air with 


He 


22 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


asa, their apear-points) “ Usongora,” meaning that Ul 
Whe was what we saw, and beyond it lay Usongora, inviai 

After halting at Ujungwa we rose next day to mareli 
to Utinda, seven miles off. The valley between the 
Balegge Mountains and the forest seemed to narrow, 
and the path threatened to take ua into troublous depths 
of spear-grass brakes and fens nourishing reed-oane, 
when, after erossing the Chai and Aturo streams, and 
oven] gushing rivulet, it rau up a lengthy spur ofthe 
Balegga Mountain, and took us to a height of 500 feet: 
above the valley. 

From this altitude we observed that we had narrowly 
escaped being buried in the forest again, for it had 
advanced behind the spur right across the valley, and 
occupied every inch of lowland. Within its sombre 
dey the Chai and Aturo rivers and other streams 
united their currents to form a respectable tributary of 
the Ituri river, 

A little to our left, aa we looked south, was a deep 
basin parted into numerous small arable plots, apper- 
taining to the district of Utinda, Every ravine and 
hollow seemed choked by long, straggling plantations of 

lantain and banana, The beans and Indian corn were 
late, for they were not more than five inches high, while 
at Bundegunda the crops were quite four feet high and 
in flower. 

‘The Egyptians reached camp four hours after the 
advance guard, and the officer in charge of the rear 
complained bitterly of the abuse that he had received 
from the Pasha’s officers, some of them jecring at him, 
making mouths, and daring him to drive them along, 
which compelled me to issue the following order — 


“ Whoreas the Espeiition ‘Mant necessarily proceed slowly, and shorten, 
{ts marches, owing to the prottie that wr fue piven Selim By, an bo 
‘the fict that thy Egyptians, the Soudanese and their followers aro as yet 
unaccustomed to hard travel and fatigue, and to the fret that I, their 
guide, am physically too weak to endure more than two or threo hours” 
exertion of kind, the officers will please exercise the greatest 
patienco and furbouruice, but they must on'no account forget the dntios 
Peosliar to tho rear-gused, They will pernit no steageling by the way 
Hide, no looting of Villages, vo lodiscrimaiuate pillaging of Tiantation, 
‘no marauding upon any exvuse; ail) upon nuy insolenee, whether fr 











RUWENZOU, YHOM KAVALLES 


ENCOUNTER WITH KABBA REGA'S PEOPLE, 256 
tian olficer, private roldior, or followur, the officer in charge will 
ven ind she fon and ing hi > 0 or ahh 

ment If any violence is offered it must be mot by such 
will instantly eruah it.” 


From the basin of Utinda we ascended past a few 
cones dominating u ridge which enclosed it on the south 
and south-east, and, ufter surmounting two other ridges 
separated by well-watered valleys, we arrived on the 
airy upland of Uhobo, 4,900 feet above sen- 
level. A little later Kaibuga entered into our ae 
‘This chief was of the Wahuma settled among the 
Balegga, whose grounds overlooked the plain of Kuvalli 
Seed tha eoueh cad Oll tae Myasee ancl whoa teat 
extended to the debouchure of the Semliki. ie 
urged active hostilities, as Uhobo belonged to Kabba 
Rega. Naturally we smiled at this, as we had not 
seen the semblance of a single enemy, though it is trae 
that the Uhobo natives ind disappeared from view ab 
our approach. At this instant a picquct signalled the 
advance of a column of Kabba Rega’s people armed with 

ns, and two companies of Zanzibaris were mustered 

y Lieutenant Stairs and Captain Nelson, the latter of 
whom had so improved the diet of Kavalli and 
Mazamboui that, he was fit for any work, 

After proceeding about two miles they met the small 
party of the Pasha’s people earrying the dead body of 

ptain Cusati's faithful servant Okili, for whom Casati 
entertained deep affection. He had been shot through 
the forehead hy a rifle-ball. It appears that while the 
Soudanese had been bathing in a atream south of Uhobo, 
the column of the Wara Sura happened to be observed 
marching in a pretty disciplined manner with two flags 
towards them, and a few minutes later would have sur- 
prised them, but the whole party hustily dressed, und, 
snatching their rifles, opened fire on them. Three of 
the enemy fell dead, and Okili was shot by the fire that: 
was returned, On the approach of the Zanzibaris the 
Wara Sura fled, and were puraued for three miles, but 
no further casualties oceurred, 

‘Aseyere rainstorm, lasting seven hours, fell during the 


1880, 


Wade 





oh 


256 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


night, and in the morning when marching to Mboga we 
were involved in cloud and mist, As the day advanced, 
however, Ruwenzori thrust its immense body into view 
fur ubove the vapours rising from the low Semliki Valley, 
and every now and then the topmost cones gathered the 
cloudy teeces and veiled their white heads from view. 
As we advanced nearer each day to the range we were 
surprised that we were not ablé to discover so much 
snow as we had seen at Kavalli, but on reflection it 
became evident that the line of snow became obscured 
from view by an advanced ridge, which the nearer we 
ea impeded the view the more, We ol 

wo that the lofty mountain range sasumed the form 
of a crescent ; Ajif Mountain forming the northern end 
and the Twin Peak shoulder to the west the other end ; 
and further, that beyond Ajif, which T estimated at about 
6,000 feet above the sea, there was a steady and per- 
ceptible rise to the snow line, and then a sudden uplift 
to the ud height of from 2,000 to 5,000 feet higher, 
most of which was under snow, 

This place of Mboga, were it in any other country 
than under the Equator in Mid Africa, would afford a 
splendid view of this unique range. From the Twin 
Peak angle and up to thirty miles N.N.E. of Ajif the 
whole of it ought to be in sight in any other elime, but 
the mist escapes in continuous series or strata from the 
valley beneath, and floats in Heeting evanescent masses, 
quite olscuring every other minute the entire outlines 

pween this point and the Ruwenzori range lies the 
deep sunken valley of the Semliki, from twelve to 
twenty-five miles wide. From a point abreast of 
Mboga to the edge of the Lake the first glance of it 
suggests a lake, Indeed, the officers supposed it to be 
the Albert Lake, and the Sondanese women were im-< 
moderately joyous at the sight, and relieved their 
feelings by shrill In-In-lus; but a binocnlar revealed 
pale brown grass in ite sere, with tiny bushes dotting 
the plain. To our right, as we looked down the dey th 
of 2,500 feet, there was a dark tongue of acacia bushes 
deepening into blackness as the forest, which we had 











—— 


| 


TUKABL, “ THE STOWAWAYS 2a7 


left near the Chai River, usurped the entire breadth of 
the valley. 

Mr, Jephaon was still an invalid, with a fever which 
varied from 102° to 105° temperature, ever since the 
2rd of April, and at this time he was in rather an 
anxious state’ of mind, Like myself, he was much 
shrunk, and we both looked ill.” We halted on the 
18th to give reat to invalids and the little children, 

To Kiryama, on the 14th, a village situated near the 
mouth of a deep and narrow valley, and which in old times, 
when Lake Alhert covered the grassy plain and must have 
been a somewhat picturesque inlet, we made a continuous 
descent by declining spura. The soil of the valley was 
extremely rich, and a copious stream coursed through it 
to the Semliki. We obtained, at brief intervals, glimpses 
of Ruwenzori ; but had the mist not been so tantalising 
it would not have been deemed an unwelcome view that 
we should have had of the magnificent and imposing 
altitude of 15,500 feet above ua. 

In the camp of the immense caravan a little bi 
about eleven years old, named Tukabi, was found, He 
was what is termed "a stowawa' While we were at 
Mazamboni, his futher, a subject of Kayalli, had come 
to appeal for help to recover him. He had attached 
himself to some Zanzibaris. ‘The hoy was delivered up, 
and his father was charged to observe the young truant 
carefully. He had disguised himself with some cloth to 
cover his face, but as he passed my tent T recognised 
him. He was asked why he deserted his father to join 
strangers who might he unkind to him. “ Because,” he 
answered, ‘I prefer my friend to my father.” * Does 
your father beat you?" “No, but T wish to see the 
place where these guns come from, and where the thunder 
medicine (gunpowder) is made.” | It was the first time 
in my experience that an African boy of such a tender 
age was known to voluntarily abandon his parents He 
was a singularly bright little fellow, with very intelligent 
eyes, and wed to the Wahuma race, 

y eres Nelson was despatched to proceed to the 
Semliki River with 80 rifles, to examine what opportuni 
vor. 1. Ww 






atop tt 
Miss 


- | 


| 
IN DARKEST APKICA. 


vs. tioa there might be for crossing the river. He returned 
Akh after a brilliant march, and reported that the Semliki at 
| the ferry was ubout eighty or ninety yards wide, swift 


g 


and » with steep banka of from ten to twenty 
feet high, much pee to undermining by the river; 
that the canoes all been removed by Rayidongo, 
the General of Kabbu Rega, who was said to have 
gathered a Inrge force to. PED eS our crossing, and 
also that all the natives of Uhobo, Mboga, and Kiryama 
districts, were collected across the Semliki River with 
him, and that it was clear a stout resistance would be 
made, as the apposite banks were carefully watched ; that 
while they were examining the river a volley had been 
fired at them, which was fortunately harmless. 

After a two days’ rest at Kiryama we marched south 
noross the grassy plain to another ferry led by Kaibuga. 
That which some of us had assumed to be a lake was 
very firm alluvium and lacustrine deposit, growing « 
thin crop of innuteitious grass, abont 18 inches high. 
As we up the river it sensibly improved ; and 
wt the third hour from Kiryamn an acacia tree was seen ; 
1 little later there were five, then a dozen, wide apart 
and stunted, At the fourth hour it was quite a thin 
forest on the left side of the Semliki, while to the right 
it was a thick impervious and umbrageous tropic forest, 
and suddenly we were on the bank of the Semliki. At the 

int we touched the river it was sixty yards wide, with 

tween & four and five-knot current. A little below it 
widened into 100 yards, a fine, deep, and promisin 
river. Up and down, and opposite, there were broud 
signs of recent land falls, Ita banks consisted of sediment 
and gravelly débris which could offer no resiatanes to 
the strong current when it surged against the base. 
Tt washed away great masses from nrndameath There 
was a continual falling of dissolving lumps, as though 
it was so much snow; then a sudden fall of a two-ton 
fragment of the superincumbent bank, It was a loopy, 
and twisting, crooked stream, forming a wide-stretching 8 
in every mile of its course, and its water was of a whitey- 
brown colour, and weighted with sediment. Out of a 








THE SEMLIKE RIVER. 209 


tumblerfal of the liquid, a fourth of an inch of fine 1s. 
By agood aneroid the altitude of the bank, whieh was 


earth would be dey 


about twenty feet above the river, was 2,388 feet ubove 
the sea. Lake Albert by the same aneroid was 2,350 
feet, There was a difference indicated of 38 feet 1 
estimated that we were abont thirty English miles from 
the lake, ‘ 

As we arrived at the river a canoe was observed 
floating down rapidly. The alarm had been given, 
probably, by some natives who had heard our voices, and 
in their hurry to escape had either purposely east off 
their canoe, or had feared to be detained through the 
necessity of securing it. ‘The village of the Awamba, 
whence it had floated adrift, was in sight, Men were 
sent up and down the banks to discover a canoe, and 
Uledi—always Uledi—sent up soon the good news that 
he hud found one. ‘The caravan din bis 
direction, and camped ina large but abandoned banana 
plantation, The canoe was across the river in a small 
creek, opposite the camping place, By some method it 
was necessary Lo obtain It, as one canoe at this time was 
priceless. ‘The men with the bill-hooks were ordered up to 
clear twenty yurds of bush, and to Jeave a thin sereon 
hetween the sharpshooters and the river, ‘Then three or 
four volleys scoured the position around the canoe, and 
in the meantime the bold Uledi and Saat Tato, the 
hunter, swam across, and when near the vessel the firing 
ceased. In_a few seconds they had cut the canoe loose, 
and were in it, paddling across to our side with all energy, 
‘They had gained the centre of the river when 
archers rosé up and shot the hunter, and at the same 
time the rifles blazed across, But the canoe was 
obtained, and Seat Tato, streaming with blood, was 
aptended by Dr. Parke, Fortunately, the broad-bladed 
acrow had struck the shoulder blade, which saved the 
vitals. Both the brave fellows were rewarded with 
#20 worth of cloth on the spot. 

At Sra. Mr. Bonny performed signal service. He 
accepted the mission of leading five Soudanese across 


7 


260 IN DARKEST AFRICA, 


1a. the Semliki as the vanguard of the Expedition. By 
{Ort% sunset there were fifty rifles across the rive 
On the 18th the ferriage waa resumed at dawn, By 

noon two more canoes had been diseavered by scouts, 
Stairs and Jephson were both very ill of fever, and T 

was a prematurely old man of ninety in strength and 
appearnce, and just able to walk at this time about 

‘one hundred yarda. Captain Nelson and Surgeon Parke 
therefore superintended the work of transporting the 
Expedition across the Semliki. At two o'clock in the 
afternoon, while the ferrying was briskly proceeding, a 














APTACK AY THE WANTORO AT WRMLISE FRIERY. 


body of fifty of the Warm Surw stole up to within 
250 yards of the ferry, and fired a volley at the canoes 
while in mid-river, Ion slugaand lead bullets sereamed 
over the heads of the passengers, and flew along the fice 
of the water, but fortunately there was no harm done, 
Notwithstanding our admiration at their impudent 
audacity, w second volley might be more effective, but 
Captain’ Nelson sprang from the riverside, and @ 
hundred rifles gathered around him and a chase began. 
We heard a good deal of volleying, but the chase and 

















ATTACK BY THE WARA SURA. 261 


retreat were #0 hot that not n bullet found its 1a, 
billet. However, the Warn Sura discovered that, what- 71% 
ever our intentions might be, we were in strong force, 

and we understood that they were capable of eontriv- 

ing mischief, In their hurried flight they drop) 
seyeral as well-made cartridges us could be at 
Woolwich ; and here was a proof also what a nest of 
traitors there was in the Equatorial Province, for all 
these articles were of course furnished by the seores of 
deserters. 

By night of the 18th, 669 people had been ferried 
across, At 3 o'clock of the 19th, 1,168 men, women and 
children, 610 loads af baggage, 3 cance loads of sheep 
and goats, and 235 head of cattle had been taken across. 
‘The only loss sustained was a calf, which was drowned, 
It may he imagined how pleased | was at the brilliant 
services, activity and care shown by Captain Nelson and 
Dr, Parke. 

A few hours later one of the Pasha's followers was 
taken to the surgeon with a fatal arrow-wound. It 
reminded me of the anxious times | suffered, during 
the first eighteen months’ experiences with the equally 
thoughtless Zanzibaris. 

On the 20th the Expedition moved through the thick 
forest, along an extremely sloughy path to a little 
village removed one and a half hours from the river. 
We arrived just as the intolerable pests of goats were at 
their liveliest. They swarmed into the eyes, nostrils, 
and cars, in myriads, We thought the uninhabited 
forest was preferable, but at 9 o'clock the minute tribes 
retired to rest, and ceased to vex us, There was an 
odour of stale banana wine and ripe banana refuse, and 
these probably had attracted the gnats. Two large 
troughs —equal in size to small canoes—were stationed in 
the villnge, in which the natives pressed the ripe fruit 
and mannfactured their wine, 

For the first time we discovered that the Awamba, 
whose territory we were now in, understood the art of 
drying bananas over wooden gratings, for the purpose 
of making flour, We had often wondered, during our 


= = | 


“| 


262 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


life in the forest region, that natives did not. oy to 
have discovered what invaluable, nourishing, aches 
digestible food they possessed in the rissa and 
banana. All banana lands—Cuba, Brazil, West Indies 
“seem to me to have been specially remiss on this 

int. If only the virtues of the flour were publicly 

own, it is not to be doubted but it would be largely 
consumed in Europe, For infants, is of delicate 
digestion, Bis) Sat and those suffering from temporary 
derangements of the stomach, the Hour, properly pre 
pared, would be of universal demand. During my two 
attacks of gastritis, a light gruel of this, mixed with 
milk, was the only matter that could be digested. 

On the 22nd we were obliged to march for six hours 
through quagmire nnd reeking mud hefore we were 
enabled to find a resting-place. The dense forest, while 
as purely tropical in its luxuriance as any we had 
travelled, was more discomforting owing to its greater 
heat and over-abundant moisture. The excessive humidity 
revenled itself in a thin, opaque, damp haze just 

hove ua, In the tree-tops it Trad already gathered into 

a mist ; above them it waa a cloud ; 40 that between us 
and sunshine we had clouds several miles in thickness, 
the thick, dark, matted foliage of the forest, then 
thickening layers of mist, and finally a haze of warm 
vapour, We therefore picked our way through shallow 
pool and gluey black mud, under « perpetual dropping 
of condensed Vapour, and by a leaden light that would 
encourage thoughts of suicide, while bodily distress was 
evinced by trickling rillets of perspiration. 

Emerging into a ruined village, the result of some 
late raid of the Wara Sura, we threw looks towards 
Rawenzori, but the old mountain had disappeared under 
Dlue-black clouds that reminded one of brooding tem- 
pests. The heights of Mboga were dimly visible, though 
they were further from us than the stupendous mass 
behind which the thunder muttered, and whence rain 
seemed imminent. We begun to reulize that we were 
in the centre of a great fermenting vat, and that the 
exhalations growing out of it concentrated themselves 








& 


TROUBLES WITH THE EGYPTIANS. 268 


into clouds, and that the latter hung in ever-thickerting 
folds until they floated against the fice of Ruwenzori 5 
that they Ianguidly ascended the elants and ching to 
the summits, until a draught of wind over the snow- 
crests blew them away and cleared the view, 

We pnased through an extremely populons district 
the next day, and travelled only two and a quarter 
hours to reach Baki Kundi, Flanking the path were 
familiar features, such ax several camps of pigmmies, who 
were here culled Wutwa. 

The distance from the Semliki to these vill 
wherein we were now encamped is 154 English miles, 
which we had taken three days to travel, and two days’ 
halt in consequence. But us this was, and sup: 
plied as was the caravan with running streams of good 
water and unlimited quantities of meat and grain, 
potatoes, plantains, and ripe fruit, the misery of 
African travel had been realived to itsdepths Mothers 
had left. their little children on the road, and one 
Egyptian soldier, named Hamdan, had Jaid down by 
the wayside and bo ea refused to move, unwillin, 
to pursue the journey of life farther. He had no. hi 
to he was not sick, but he—what can he suid ¢ 
He belonged to the donkey breed of humanity ; he 
could nop travel, bat he could die, and the rear-guard 
were obliged to leave him. This started a rumour 
through the camp that the commander of the rear-guard 
had quietly despatched him. 

The 24th of May was a halt, and we availed ourselves 
of it to despateh two: companies to trace the paths, that 
I might obtain a general idea which would best suit our 
purposes. One company took w road leading slightly 
east of south, and suddenly came across a few Baundwe, 
wham we knew for real forest, abo es, This was in 
itself a discovery, for we had supposed we were still in 
Utuku, us the east side of the Semliki is called, and 
which is under Kabbu Roga’s rule. ‘The language of 
the Baundwe was new, but they understood a little 
Kinyoro, and by this means we learned that Ruwenzori 
was known to them as Bugombowa, and that the 











a, 
May 30, 
Awainba 


cy JN DARKEST AFRICA, 


an Watwa pigmics and the Wara Sura were their worst 
My 4 enemies, and that the former were scattered through 
Bet the woods to the W.S.W, 

The other company travelled ina 8, by W. direction, 
reached the thin line of open country that divided the 
immediate buxe-line of Ruwenzori from the forest. ‘They 
spoke in raptures of the abundance of food, but stated 

at the people were hostile and warlike. ‘The arms of 
the men were similar to those of other forest people, but 
the women were distinguished for iron collars, to whieh 
were suspended small phiulshaped pendants of hollow 
iron, besides those ending in fine spiral coils at the 
extremities, 


ini” 
na 


= 





motes oN THK DCI roe. 








Another short march of two and a quarter hours 
brought ua to a village of thirty-nine round, conical 
huts, which possesied elaborate doorways, here and there 
ornamented with triangles painted red and black, The 

ix qunieensis palm waa very numerous near the 
village. 

On the next day we emerged ont of the forest, and 
camped in the «trip of gras-land in the village of 
Ugurama, in N. Int. 0° 45' 49" and E. long. 30° 14! 45", 
The path had led along the crests of a narrow, wooded 
spur, with ravines 200 feet deep on either hand, buried 
by giant trees, The grassland here did not produce that 











THE RESURRECTION OF HAMDAN. 25 


short nutritive quality which made Kavalli so pleasant, ae 
hut was of gigantic spear-grasses, from 6 to 15 high. 

The tian Hamdan made hia St yon ait SER 
camp. to himself he had probably discovered it 
hard to die ulone in the lonely woods, and had repented 
of his folly. By this time we had become fully sensible 
of the difficulty we should meet each day while these 
people were under our charge, Low as was my estima- 
tion of them before, it had descended fur below zero now. 
Words availed nothing, reason could not penetrate their 
dense heads, ‘Their custom was to rush at carly dawn 
along the path, and after an hour's spurt ait down, 
dawdle, light # fire, and cook, and e, and gossip ; 
then, when the rear-guard came up to urge them along, 
assume sour and discontented looks, and mutter to them- 
selves of the cruelty of the infidels. Almost every day 
complaints reached me from them respecting Captain 
Nelson tear Stairs ae one or the other 
was report cing exacting and too peremy J 
It was tedious work to get them to Capiabnotieeee 
they were obeying orders ; that their sole anxiety was to 
save them from being killed hy the natives, or from Toaing 
their way ; that the earlier et reached camp the better 
far everybody ; that marches of two or three hours would 
not kill a child even; that while it was our duty to be 
careful of their lives, it was also our duty to have some 

for the Zanzibaris, who, instead of being two or 
three hours on the road were obliged to be ten hours, 
with boxes on their heads; that it was my duty also to 
seo that the white atficers were not worn out by being 
exposed to the rain, and mud, and shivering damp, 
waiting on people who would nob see the benefit of 
walking four or five miles quickly to camp to enjoy 
twenty to twenty-one hours’ rest out of the twenty-four, 
‘These whining people, who were unable to walk empty- 
handed two and a half or three hours per day, were 
es Egeptic a man with a little black pigment in 
his akin seldom complained, the extreme bluck and the 
extreme white never. 

‘The Egyptians and thoir followers had such a number 


: 7 


266 IN DARKEST APRICA, 


of infants and young children that when the camp space 
was at all limited, us on w narrow spur, sleep was scarcely 
a ‘ible, These wee creatures must have 

irascible natures, for such obstinate and persistent cater- 
wauling never tormented me before, The tiny blacks 
and sallow yellows rivalled one another with force of 
Jung until long pust midnight, then about 3 or 4 am. 


1880, 
May 0. 
gare 





NOYPTIAY WOMES ASD. HILDEN, 


started afresh, woke everyone from slumber, while grunts 
‘of discontent at the meeawing chorus would he heard 
from every quarter, 

Our Zanzibaris concluded that thaugh the people of 
Equatoria might be excellent breeders, they were very 
poor soldiera” ‘The Egyptians had been #0 long aocus- 
tomed to overawe the natives of the Pro heir 
numbers and superior arms, that now their number was 
somewhat reduced and overmatched by natives, they 











THE PASHA. 267 


wed to he doubtful of countries ; 
one ee ee 
that they would speedily convert the 
natives to rancorous foes, 

With the Pasha T had a conversation on this date, 
and I became fully aware that, though polite, he yet 
smarted under resentment for the explosion of April Sth. 
Bub the trath ia that the explosion was necessary 
unavoidable, Our natures were diametrically opposed. 
So long us there wus no imperative action in prospect we 
should have been both capable of fully enjoying one 
another's society. He was leaned and industrious anda 
pole. Tcould admire and appreciate his merits, 

ut the conditions of our existence prohibited @ too pro- 
longed a ae in these pleasures. We had not been 
commissioned to our days in Equatoria in scientifie 
talk, nor to hold a protracted conversaxione on Lake 
Albert. The time had come, as appointed, to begin a 
forward movement. It was not effected without that 
pie in the square at Kavalli, Now that we were on 
the journey | discovered to my regret that there were 
other causes for friction, The Pasha was devoured with 
a desire to augment his bird collections, and thought 
that, having come so far to help him, we might “take it 
easy.” “But we are taking it easy for manifold reasons, 
The little children, the large number of women burdened. 
with infants, the incapable Egyptians, the hope that 
Selim Bey will overtake us, the feeble condition of 
Jephson and myself, and Stare is far from strong.” 
“Well, then, take it more easy.” “ We have done #0; 
a mile and a half per day is surely easy going.” “Then 
be easier still.” “Heavens, Pasha, do you wish us to 
stay here altogether ¢ Then let us make our wills, and 
resign ourselves to die with our work undone.” |The 
thunder was muttering again, as behind the dark clouds 
‘on Rawenzori, and another explosion was imminent. 

T knew he was an ardent collector of birds and 
reptiles and insects, but I did not know that it was a 
mania with him. He would slay every bird in Afriea 
he would collect ugly reptiles, and every hideons insect ; 








1880, 
ce 


most peaceful Sm 


ay 


268 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


tas. he would gather every skull until we should become a 
doy travelling museum and cemetery, if only carriers eould 


be obtained. But then his people were already 
doveloping those rabid ulcers, syphilis had weakened 
their constitutions, a puncture of a thorn in the face 
grew into # horrid sud sloughy sore; they had pastured 
on vice und were reaping the consequences. The camps 
i searathesatna ess teh y Abst din ere eee 
pestilence, and we should soon become a moving sight 
to gods and men, Carriers were dying—they were not 
treated—and then, why then, we could not move 
at all by-and-by. He was in Heaven when his secre- 
tary, Rajab Effendi, brought him new species ; he looked 
iteful when there waa to be a two days’ rest, sad when 
1 heard we should march ; and when we should reach @ 
nice place near Ruwenzori, we should stay a week, oh, 
splendid ! 

Now, all this made me feel as if we were engaged in 
a most ungrateful task, As long as life lasts, he will 
hold me in aversion, and his friends, the Felkina, the 
Junkers, and Schweinfurths will listen to querulous 
complaints, but they will never reflect that work in this 
Aan must not consist entirely of the storage in 
museums of akulls, and birds, and insects; that the 
continent of African was never meant by the all- 
bounteous Creator to be merely a botanical reserve, or 
un entomologieal museum. 

Every man I saw, giant or dwarf, only deepened the 
belief that Afriea had other claims ou man, and every 
feature of the glorious land only impressed me the more 
that there was a crying need for immediate relief and 
assistance from civilisation ; that first of all, roads of 
iron must be built, and that fire and water were essen- 
tial agencies for tranaport, more especially on this long 
troubled continent than on any other. 

Alas! alas! With this grand mountain range within 
w stone’s throw of our camp—not yet outlined on my 
map—that other lake we heard so much about from 
Kaibuga, our Mhuma chief, not yet diseovered, the 
Semliki Vulley, with its treasures of woods and vege- 








THE GLORIES OF THE LAND, 269 


table productions, not yet explored, and the Semliki 
River, which was said to connect the upper with the 
lower lake, not yet traced. To hear about wonderful 
salt lukes that inight mpnly the world with salt ; of 
large-hodied Wesongors, on ‘numbers of amiable tribes 5 
of the mysterious Wanyavingi, who were said to be 
from white men ; to be in the neighbourhood 
of colossal mountains topped with snow, which I believed 
to be the lost Mountains of the Moon: to be in a land 
which could boast of possessing the fabulous fountain 
de la lune, 4 veritable land of marvel and mystery, a 
and of pigmies and tall men reported from of old, and 
not feel u glad desire to search into the truth of these 
sayings. He—the Maker who raised those oternal 
mountains and tapestried their slopes with the mosses, 
and lichens, and tender herbs, and divided them by 
myrinds of watercourses for the melted snow to run 
into the fruitful valley, and caused that mighty, limit- 
leas forest to clothe it, and ita foliage to shine with 
unfading lustre—surely intended that it should be 
reserved until the fulness of time for something higher 
than a nursery for birds and a store-place far reptiles. 

The abundance of food in this region was one of the 
most remarkable features in it. Ten battalions would 
have needed no commissary to provide their provisions. 
We hud but to pluck and eat. Ourscouts reported that 
on every hand lay ees abounding in the heaviest 
clusters of fruit, The native granariea were full of red 
millet, the huts were stored with Indian corn; in the 
neighbouring garden plots were yams, sweet potatoes, 
colocassia, tobacco. 

From the spur of Ugarama, where we halted on the 
27th, we could see that up to 8,000 feet of the slopes 
they ‘were dotted with several scores of cultivated plots, 

that the crooked lines of ravines were green with 
Jengthy banana groves, and that upland and lowland 
stoctead with population and food, and other products, 
Through « glass we were able to note that a thick forest 
covered the upper slopes and ridges, with an elevation 
of 9,000 up to 12,000 feet ; and that where there was no 


ato 
May 26, 
‘Upareua, 


a 


270 IN DARKEST APRICA. 


isso enltivation tne woods continued down to the base. The 
diy wild banana was seen flourishing up to a lofty limit, and 
_ Hem graced the slopes denuded of trees, and towered over the 
tallest grass. ‘The Ruwenzori peaks appeared shrouded 
by leaden clouds, and the lower mountain ranges played 
at hide-and-seek under the drifting and shifting masses 
of white vapour, By aneroid, Ugarama is 2,994 feet : 
and by boiling point, 2,942 feet above the sea, The 
immediate range, under whose lee the spur ran out to 
oer village, was, by triangulation, discovered to be 

an altitude of 9,147 feet. 

Two women—light-complexioned and very pleasing 
—who were found in the woods near the village, were 
able to speak the Kinyoro language, Tt was from them 
we learned that we were in Ugarama, in the country of 
Awamba ; that Utuku was a name given to the open 
country up to the Mississi River and the Lake; that the 
next district we should reach southerly was Bukoko, 
where the principal Chief, Sibaliki, of the Awamba, 
lived ; and beyond Bukoko was Butama, That from 
Ugurama to the north extremity of Bukonju or Ukonju, 
was one day's march ; that two days thence would take 
us to Toro, but we should have to cross the mountains ; 
that the king of N. Ukonja was called Ruhandika ; that 
the Wakonju formerly owned vast herds of cattle, but 
the Ware Sura had swept the herds away, We were also 
told that if we followed the base line of the big moun- 
tains, three days’ march would enable us to reach 
country ef short grass, wherein gonts and sheep were 
plentiful, and wherein there were a few herds of cattle ; 
hut the Wara Sura had raided so many times there that 
eattle could not be kept. The enemies of the Awamba, 
who ont down the woods and tilled the ground, were the 
vicious Watwa pigmies, who made their lives miserable 
hy robhing their plantations, and destroying small 
parties while at work, or proceeding to’ market in 
adjoining districts, while the Wara Sura devastated far 
and near, and they were in the service of Kabba 





Rega. 
BViatNSKAe ite Rey. over enjoyed days ‘ot huni 


NATIVES OF AWAMBA. mH 


and the snow mountains could be seen cleac and bright 1+. 
for three or four days, or a week, or » month, thay 2% 


replied that they had never witnessed xo much rain as at, 
this time; and they believed that we hud purposely 
caused this in onder the more easily to detect people by 
the tracks along the paths, They also said that at first 
they had taken ua for Wara Sura; but the large herd of 
cattle with us disproved that we had taken them from 
the Awamlba, for they possessed none. When we 
informed them that we had seized them from people 
who acknowledged Kabba Rega as their chief, they said = 
“Oh, if our people but knew that, they would bring you 
everything.” “Well, then, you shall go and tell them 
that we are friends to everyone who will not close the 
road. - We are going to a far conntry, and, as we can- 
not fy, we must use the path ; but we never hurt those 
who do not raise the spear and draw the bow.” 

On the 28th we advanced five miles over a series of 
spurs, and across deep ravines, continuous descents of 
200 feet to ravines a few yards across, and opposite 
ascensions, to a similar oie They were 80 steep that 
we were either sliding, or climbing by means of the trees 
and creepers depending from them; and all this under 
an unceasing, drizzly rain. The rotting banana stalks 
and refuse of the fruit created a sickening stench. 

The next day's march of four miles enabled us to 
reach Butama, after an experience as opposite to the 
sloughs, mud, rock, descents and ascents of the day 
before, us a fine puth, broud enough for an European’s 
wide-stopping feet, could well he in Africa. The sandy 
loam quickly absorbed the rain; the rank reed-srass, 
except at, tare intervals, afforded a sufficient space 
between, and troops of elephants had tramped the 
ground hard. 

An old man, with white hair, and too feeble to flee, 
had awaited his fate at Butama. On being questioned, 
he replied that the name of the snow mountains that 
naw were immediately above us at. an appalling height, 
waa “ Avirika, Aviruka, Avrika, Avruka, Avirika, and 
Avuruka!” go he rang the changes by pressure of eager 


Bi: 


ar IN DARKBST AFRICA. 


Reh pee he had ee by its relation to Afrika, 

“rl eg he was most severe, He 

Tiedt ing wil exceedingly treacherous ; 

MAS tity, were ‘the’ babe OF eae friends with 

a of rich districts by fraudful arts and false Fiat 

fessions, and, despite blood-brotherhood, aud plighted 

th of suddenly turning upon them and destroying 
them. 

On the 30th we reached Bukoko in four hours’ easy 
travel, for we marched over a smooth luated terrace 
formed by the debris he down the sl of the snow 
mountain, and scoured by repeated falls of rain to « 

gentle slope, luxuriant welsh seed peaan and woudecehig 
prolif i« in edibles where cultivated. Here and there 
cropped out a monster boulder, half imbedded in the 
loam and gravelly soil, which had rolled and thundered 
wildly down when displaced by some landalip, or detached 
from its resting-place by « torrential shower. 

Bukoko was « large ind powerful settlement and an 
important cluster of villages; but it struck us us we 
entered it that it had been for several days abandoned, 
probably as long ago as a month. Its groves 
endless and most thriving, and weighted with fruit, and 
tomutoes grew in prodigious plenty, 

seouts, as usual, soon after stacking geod oa and 
ngs camp, set ont to explore, and in a short 
met sume people in cotton dresses who were armed with 
(aoa and who fired upon them. We heard the loud 
boom of pacassin muskets, and the sharper erack of 
rifles, and then there was quict, Presently the scouts 
returned to report, and they brought me an Enfield rifle 
which had been thrown away by the defeated band, two 
of the men were supposed to be fatally wounded, one 
was eid to be dad They also brought with them a 
woman and a bay, who were evidently natives of the 
eountry, and could say nothing intelligible. 

A company of seventy rifles was immediately des 
patehed to reconnoitre further, and in ten minutes 

re was quite a sustained fusillude, deep booming of 
muskets against sharp volleys of Remingtons and 





THE MANYUBMA AGAIN, 273 


Winchesters. Soon after two of our men were carried to 
camp wounded, who reported that the enemy were 
Wara Sura, The rifles appeared to have (eee the 
strangers hard; the firing was getting more distant, but 
in an hour's time we had two more wounded, and a 
Zanaibosi oath aad a, Manyuema youth killed, ond 
almost immediately, aa I th it of preparing 2 stron; 
reinforcement, Tle and che rites Ratked ita ‘ane 
uecompanied by the chiefs of the enemy, who turn 

ont to be Manynema raiders, the followers of Kilonga- 


Longa! 

Their story waa that a band of fifty gunmen, accom. 

nied by about 100 spearmen, had crossed the Lturi 
River, and pushing east had arrived about twenty: da 
ago near the edge of the forest, having crossed the 
Semliki River, and had, with their usual tactics, 
commenced raiding when they caught sight of some men 
with guns whom they guessed to he Wara Sura, and had 
fired upon them, ‘The strangers had fired in return and 
killed one of them, wounded another mortally, and four 
others severely, The rest had fled to their settlement, 


to have had a legitimate excuse for annihilating one 
hand of the unconscionable raiders, we could not but 
accept their apologies for what had clearly heen an 
accident, and gifts were exchanged. 

We were told that they had met gangs of the Wara 
Sura, bur had met “ bad ck,” and only one small tusk 
of ivory rewarded their efforts Ipote, according to 
them, was twenty days’ march through the forest from. 
Bukoko. 

vou. UL 1s 


era, 
Yao, 


a4 IN DARSEST AFRICA, 


Ruwenzori was now known as Virika by the Awamba 
of this distriet. 
Sitch. ccaeraing fedax the -Aseasibe Seeavaeeas 


Ugarama, we mm along a uarrow strip, 
covered with pe Oh eae 
as high as fifteen feet. ‘eminences it appears to be 


from three to eight miles wide, separating the deep, dark 
forest. From immediate vicinity of the mountain, 
notwithstanding that the grass was of the height and 
thickness of bamboo, the path was infinitely herter, and 
we had but to cross one or two ravines and watercourses 
during a march. A feature of it was the parachute- 
shaped acacia, which in the neighbourhood of the 





TIE TALGEAT FEAR OF WEWESBONT, FHOM AWAMNA, FORO: 


Nyanza was the only tree visible. Near the forest line 
thie tree disappears, and the vegetation, riotously 
luxnriant and purely tropical, occupied the rest of the 
valley. 

‘The streams we had lately crossed were cold mountain 
torrents with fairly wide beds, showing gravel, sand, 
eobhle stones, specimens of the rocks above, gneias, 
porphyry, hornblende, sandstone, steatite, hematite, and 
geunite, with several pumice lumps. Three of the 
principal rivers, called the Rami, Rubutu, and Singiti, 
were respectively of the temperatures 68°, 62°, and 65” 
Fahrenheit, 








THE SEMLIRT VALLEY. 275 


After a halt of two days at Bukoko we marched a 
distance of eight miles to the village of Banzombé, 
situate on a narrow, level spur between two deep 

orept 


little chance of photographing it, or employ any of its 
ai eel es ve hearings. pe 

‘he vapours issuing from the Semliki Valley appeared 
to be weighed down by pressure from above, judging by 
the long time required for 1 mass of ascending vapour to 
reach the summit, The smoke of the camp hung over us 
like « fog until we were nearly blinded and sutlocated. 

Our cattle showed signs of fagging out, We now 
possessed 104 head, and 30 sheep and goats. 

On the 3rd of June we reached the little village of 
RBakokoro, in N. Lat, 0°87, and here a Capt, one of 
four brothers, breathed his Inst, Three considerable 
streams hod heen traversed during the short mareh of 
three miles, ‘The temperature of ove was 62° Fubrenheit. 

Unable to trace a path beyond Bakokoro, trending in 
the direction we cilia! we halted on the 4th. 
Jephson was in a high fever; te ture 105°. Mr. 
Bonny was also suffering ; Stains recovered. Captain 
Nelson was robust a strong, and during these da 
was doing double duty to endeavour to make up for 
long months he had been invalided, from October, 1887, 

tober, 1888, 

Some plantains measured here were seventeen and a 
half inches in length, and as thick as the forearm, 

After a short march of two and a half hours, we 
arrived at Mtarega, situated near the deep gorge of the 
Rami-Lulu river, as it issued from a deep chasm in the 
mountains. 

We had all we desired to possess at this camp. We 
were within 200 yards: from the foot of the Ruwenzori 
range. Patha were seen leading up the steep slopes; # 
fine LG ate feet below, ore rough the 

ie snow tops, 61° Fahrenheit tempera- 
ae Bananas, aoa yams, and enim 


ome IN DARKEST APEICA. 
cane were in the plantations and fields, 200 yards 


ie, sugar 
Joe away. Now was the period of exploration, and to make 
Tiolem Hotunical collections, Accordingly I sounded the note 


to prepare to win immortal renown by scaling the 
halite of the famous Mountains of the Hoa M 
strength was go far recovered that I could 
200 yards. Mr. Jephson regretted to say that the 
fever had conquered and subdued his sanguine spiri 
Captain Nelson was sorry, but really, if there was any: 
practical use in climbing such ruthlessly tall mountains 
—and he took a solemn look at them, and said, “No, 
thanks {” Parke’s line was amid suffering 
humanity ; Mr, Bonny was in bad luck—nn obstinate 
fever had gripped him, aud reduced his limbs to mere 
sticka, Captain Casati smiled mournfully, and seemed 
to say, Look at me, and imagine how far I could go.” 
But the Pasho's honour was at stake; he had at all 
times expressed rapture at the very thought, and this 
was the critical period in the march of the Expedition, 
and Stairs took a sly glance at the grim, anconquered: 
heights, and said, “I'll go, like a shot.” Tt on! 
mained for me to advise him, to furnish him with in- 
struments, to compare his aneroids with a standard one 
in camp, and supply the men with many anxious counsels 
to avoid the cold, and to beware of chills after an ascent. 
‘The night was an agreeable one. ‘The ultitude of the 
camp above the sea was 3,860 fect, and a gentle, eool 
wind blew all night from the gap of the Rumi-Luhu 
river. In the morning Stairs departed, and the Pasha 
accompanied him, But, alast the Pasha had to yield 
after « thousand feet, and returned to camp, while Stairs 
held on his way. The following is the report of his 
experiences : 











Expeiition Camp, 
Tune 8th, 1889, 


Ben,— 
Early on the morning of the Gth June, accompanied tyr some fort 

Zauaibacis, we caude w start fro the Expedition Cusp at the foot kta 
‘of the minge, crowed the strenm clone to a camp, and commenced the 
ascent of the mountain, 

‘With mo T had two aueroid, which togother wo had previously noted 
and compared with o stondard ancrosl remaining in camp under your 
imi dinto observation ; also & Fahronheit thermorneter, 


STAIRS ESSAYS TO CLIMB ROWENZORL = 277 
Por the first 900 feat above camp Bic dienbiog eae bs; 


"AL HS ax we: come, Uy more huts of the same typo, and 
and that ihe natives hit desamped frou then soxe days prvvioualy, 
mom 


con 
xeefera and palsa: ood, taxiglod all ehapoe en eltber ede of the 
were masses of long bracken. The natives now ap 


tle troul 
the ‘stretching fir away bel al 
plains, 6 far away Velow mn, we, contd oe 


forent 
nothing. owing to the thick ano; wo were 


‘thet wet atid 





ng up ita ehart distance, eam upon the troe-heuths. Rome of thos 
wishes minst have teen 20 foot high, nnd, ne we had to eat our way: 
foot through therm, 


3. 
i: 


{to thowe 
‘rat. we halted among the heaths for a (ow swonents to regain 
there were patches of inferior tamtos, alot 
Toles ini by nome boring insect andl quite 
sine cy Mey CmrTrt Of 


i 
4 
u 


it 

ie 

ti 
4 

i 

2 

i 

A 

2 

2 


bg 


lichens, and rom this spat T broaght aw specimens of plants 
to classify, ng 

spite of our exertions in climbing, we all felt the cold mist very minch. 

hearily charged with moisture and makes the 


Ses) 
¥ 
t 


I= 
& 
Fr 
2 


278 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


Breaking down tho ‘mishes wo mado rough shelters for ow 
eollectodd what ‘we could find, and in otter way made roxas 
‘the might. Firewood, howwver, was scarce, owing to the wood being #0 
Yet that it wool! not burn. "In consequence of thie, tho lightly.lad 
Zanelbarix felt the cold vory much, though tho altitude wax only about 
4500 feet On turning in the thermometer registered GO" F. From 
camp T got a view of the peaks whend, aud it wax now that I began to 
fae that we ahoulil not be able tn roach the snow. Ahead of vm Lying 
slivectly in our path, were three enormous envines; at the 
least two of thieso there was dense bush, Over there w 





i 
i 





JW, TWD CORA OF NUWINRONI, HY LIEUT, PARKA. 


diffcntties lay bofore ux, and if thes ould bo surmounted iu w reason 
lable time, to go on ax far as wo posailly could. 

‘On tho morning of the 7th, mlecting some of the best mon, and 
sending the others down the mountain, wo sturtod off pain upwandn, 
the climbing being similar to that wo Oxperienorst yostontay afternoon, 
‘The night had been bitterly old. and some of the men complained of 
fovor, ht all worw in good spirits, mad quite ready to go on. About 
10 Ait. wo were stopped by tho first of tho Tevines mentioned abowe 
‘Ou looking at this 1 saw that it would take a long tine to ron, aad 
thero wore nhend of it ntll two others. Wr now got our first glimpuo of 
a miow pouk, distance abont two and a half miles, and T judged it wo 
take ue wtill a day and a half to reach this, ‘atlauspt 











a 
Pf 


STAIRS REPORT OF THE ASCENT. 











ti] 





ie HE Cis ET oH ee Le ina 
iter elt ie ata 
er Ren ire eeh Pe 
fe de gtg55 20 Seseigit specs sdeceg liq eadeasgs* 522 
ea Pe in 
iy SEL situ bt dull ft 
pa z BE pest crgistesiaisis Ele 
e223 S2<5 2 begs Siqlisei SPE ee 
55 3g58 Fe. ages sed yetia 
OH Hien ray ar an 
Head agie 
Hee Hi ee Hl satel] 
aks Heer enenarig 














Fi 


IN DARKEST AFRICA. 
eis iain hie. ec Soe coe Gs Re 


Egonga gin «higlian= P kl 
whieh nro holow. ‘That I could not ( 
and bring back some ax evidence of our work, 
the imotentain tinder | 





aiige & 
rH 
i 


it 
A 
if 
be 
5S 
a 
zi 
ff 
ue 


is af 
? 
Ha 
ie 

ni 
i 
i 


Bt 
= 
=} 
4 
e 
= 
Pa 
ES) 
a 
= 


Thaye the honour to be, &e., 
(Signed) W. G. Brame, Liewt, RE, 


bree roast fare the generic names of the plants collected by 


1. Cletntis, 14, Sonchus. 27. Aspleninm, 
2 Viola. 15, Erica 28 A) 
8 Hibiscus 16, Landoiphia, 20. Polypodiam. 
40 17. Holiotropium, 80, 
5, ‘Tephorsia. Lantinn. 81, Sclaganelia. 
in (2). Is, Mochossia, 32. Marchantia, 
Lisoohitne 38. Purmelin 
8 Vasciniunn, 21, Lugnla, BA. Deacons 
) * 80. Usnen. 
10, Peneodannm, 28, Anthistivin, A Trew form 
11, Gnaphatiun, 2, Adiantum, ST. Ono fern 
12. Holichryoum. 25. Peiin. 88. One polypo-| 
18. Senecio, 26. Pterix aquilina, ‘dium TS 


Might we have been able to obtain a view over the 
Semliki Valley we should have enjoyed one of exceeding 
interest, But we were unable to see more through the 
thick sluggish mist than that, wide as it may he, it is 
covered with a deep forest. The mist soared over the 
whole in irregular streams or in one heavy mass, which 
gave it the uspect of an inverted sky, Sometimes for 
a brief period a faint image of endless woods loomed ont, 
bot the mist streamed upward through the foliage as 
though a multitude of great geysers emitted vapours of 
hot steam. In the immediate foreground it was not 
difficult to distinguish elevations and depressions, or 
round basin-like hollows filled with the light-green 
forests of banana groves. 

One of the Twin Cones was visible a few hundred 
yanls from cump, and after a careful measurement with 
alta-azimuth it was found to be 12,070 feet, 


| 








NATURE'S CONSERVATORY. ast 


After a halt of three days we struck camp, descended ras, 
the precipitous walls of the of the Rami-lulu, and, Je % 
traversing the narrow Weak Mortly ascended up the 
equally wall-like slope on the other side, discovering a 
fact which, but for the ascent and descent, we might not 
have thought of, uamely, that the Hat lali had 
channelled this deep diteh through terrace formed of 
the washings and scourings of soil off the slopes. It was 
a débris, consisting of earth, rock, boulders, and gravel, 
which had been washed down the gap and accom ud 
by landslips of #0 great a magnitude as to have choked 
up the course of the river und formed quite an extensive 
and elevated tract, but the Rami-luin had eventually 
furrowed and grooved itself deeply through, and so tha 
great bank of material lies cut in two, to the depth of 
200 feet, sufticiently instructive, 

At early dawn & Madi chief was speared by a bold 
native. About a mile from Mtarega the grassy strip to 
which we had clung in preference was |, the forest 
had marched acrosa the breadth of the Semliki Valley, 
and had absorbed the Ruwenzori slopes to a height of 
seven thousand feet above us, and whether we would or 
‘no, we had to enter the dolefal shades again, But then 
the perfection of tropical forest was around ua Te 
even eclipsed the Ituri Valley in the variety of planta 
and general soppiness. There were clumps of palms, 
there were giant tree-ferns, there were wild bananas, and 
tall, stately treca ull coated with thick green moss from 
top to root, impenetrable thickets of brond-leafod planta, 
and beads of moisture everywhere, besides tiny rillets 
oozing out every few yards from under the matted 
tangle of vivid ‘green and bedewed undergrowth. It 
was the best specimen of a tropical conservatory 1 had 
ever seen, It could not be excelled if art had lent its 
aid to improve nature, In every tree-fork and along 
the wt horizontal branches grew the loveliest ferns 
and lichens; the elephant: car by the dozen, the orchids 
in close fellowship, and the bright green moss had 
formed soft circular cushions abont them, and on almost 
every filre there trembled a clear water-drop, and 


/ «a-_~ 




















this forest, and the next. 

ti Tonge 

spor in aay, 
of Ulegga, and 


Tine, in deep frondiose 
the Semliki Valley. There were bananas everywhere ; 
and there was no of tobacco, or of Indian ‘corn, or 


necessary day and night. At the first village the advanee 
aad encountered men who unhesitatingly resented their 
intrusion, and began hostilities, and this had created am 
impression that an important effort would be 
Wherever we looked there were villages, and if courage 
aided numbers the people were capable of an obstinate 
resistance. Sowe pressed bands of armed men up tothe 
mountains, and the skirmishing was brisk, bat at 4 P.M. 
Matyern, a Bari interpreter among the Pashu's followers, 
to get spect of a few natives, and st 
cing the chief to consent to peace. He came in 
and said that he had come to throw himself at our feet 
to be slain or saved. The trumpeters sounded to cense 
firing, and within two minutes there was a dead 
ailence, 

This chief and his friends were the first representa- 
tives of Ukonju we had seen, and the devoted mission 
of the chief instantly won our sympathy and admiration, 
1 was mither disappointed in their appearance, how- 
ever, though peer upon reflection. There is no 
rawon, save a fancy, why I should have expected those 


ll 




















OCR WAKONIU FRIENDS. 288 
mountaineers farniliar with mountain altitudes to he 


lighter in complexion than rere in the Semliki yy 
ie 


and Tturi Valley forests; but truth is, they are 
much darker than even the Zonzibari Poet o 

le dwelt around a base tine of the Swiss Alps, and 
‘an irresistible army of Scandinaviana swept up to them, 
the aboriginal inhabitants would naturally take refu; 
up the ounbains, and in the same manner these dark- 
complexieoned people of the true negroid type found 
themselves unable to resist the invasions of the Indo- 
African Wachwesi and the eoppery-faeed tribes of the: 
forest, and sought shelter in the hills, and recesses 
of the Equatorial Alps, and round about them ebbed and 
flowed the paler tribes, and so the Wakonju were confined: 
to their mountains. 

During our march to Mtsora on the next day we 
crossed five streams, which, descending from the moun- 
tains, flowed to the Semliki, One of these was of con- 
siderable volume and called the Butahu River, the 
temperture of which was 57° Fahrenheit. 

At Mtsora wo received ina short: time a good local 
knowledge from the Wakenju who were now onr friends. 
Tlenned the following items of interest. 

We were told that a few miles north of here was an 


arm of the w lnke whieh we had heard so much 
about, and which T discovered in January, 1876, They 
call it the “i; whieh in Kinyoro, means river, 


swamp, or small Inke, The Ruwern, or lake, was two 
days’ march south. 

‘They also called it the Nyanzn ; and when I asked its 
name, they replied, Muta’Naige, and. some of them 
knew of three Muta-Nziges—the “ Muta-Nzige,” of 
Unyoro, the “ Mutu-Nzige,” of Usongora, the  Muta- 
Naige," of Uganda. 

As for Nyanzas, the number became Dosplesiig 
There is the Nyansa of Unyoro, the Nyanza of Uson- 
3 the Nyanzw of Unyampaka ; the Nyanza of Toro; 
the Nyanza’ Semliki; the Nyanza Unyavingi; the 
Nyanza of Kamgwé ; and the Nyanza of Uganda, So 
that a river of any importance feeding a lake, becomes a 








IN DARKEST APBICA. 


2h 


sane, Nyanza, a large bay becomes a Nyanza; a small lake, or 
een peeare, ti Vocivs us A yates, or Rawere 
= semi-Ethiopie p who were known to us at 
Kayalli, as the Wahuma, Waima, Wawitu, Wachwezi, 
were now called Waiyana, Wanyaving!, Wasongora, and 
Wanyunkori. 

Ruwenzori, called already Bugombowa, Avirikn, and 
Virnka, by the forest tribes, hecame now known as the 
Ruwenzu-ro-ru, or Rawenjura, according as a native 
might be able to articulate. 

Butahu River separates Ulegga from Uringn. 

‘The Wara-Sura were (ee me Rukara, « general 
of Kabba Rega, King of Unyoro, Some of these ferocious 
raiders were said to be stationed at the ferry of Waiyana, 
a few miles north of here. The Wakonju offered to assist 
us to drive them out of the land. 

We were told that Rukara’s headquarters were at 
Katwé, a town near the Salt Lakes, which are somewhat, 
to the south. 

That on the western bank of the Semliki are the 
tribes Wakovi and Wasoki, and that there are also 
Watwa pigmies. 

We were informed that Usongora and Toro had 
submitted to Kabba Rega; but the inhabitants of the 
Jake islands refused to promise allegiance, and it wax suid 
Kakuri, the chief, had applied to the Wanyavingi and 
Wanyankori for aasistance againat Kabba Rega, We were 
promised the submission of all the Wakenju and Wasan- 
gora if we entered into treaty or agreement with them, 
and I accepted the offer. 

The Wakonju people are ronnd-headed, broad faced, 
and of medium size, ‘They affect circlets manufactured 
of calamus fibre, very slender, and covering the ankles 
by hundreds, They also wear a large number on the 
upper arm. The chiefs also are distinguished by heavy 
copper or bss wristlets, ‘The women’s neck decorations 
consist of heavy iron rings coiled spirally at the ends, On 
the slopes of the mountain, I am told, is found much fine 
crystal quartz. 

‘At the entrance of almost every village in Ukonju 


a_i 





STAINS KXAMINES THE SEMLIKI RIVER. 235 


may be seen a miniature tent, with a very amall doorway, 18%, 
before which the natives place a banana or an egg. A 70 Me 
tradition exists that Mikonju, the founder of the tribe “™"™ 
who first cleared the forest, and planted bananas, 
initiated this custom to prevent the It is a tithe 
offered to the fetish or spirit to remind it that they wish 
their Pahang groves, or the eggs whence issue fowls, 


protect 

On the 12th of June I despatelied Lieutenant Stairs, 
with sixty rifles and a number of Wakonju guides, to 
proceed to the Semliki, and satisfy all doubts about it; 
and on the next day he returned, having been favourably 
received by the natives, who tendered their submission, 
and accompanied our officer to the river explaining to 
hin every matter of interest. He found it forty-two: 
yarde wide, and ten feet deep, sunk between banks of 
fifty and sixty feet high, and with a current of three miles 
per hour, After tasting and looking at it, and questioning 
all the natives who could impart information, he con- 
cluded that :—L Because of the unbroken appearance of 
the range westward, which hus faced the Ruwenzori 
range ever since leaving the Albert; II, Because of the 
pecilliar grey, muddy colour: IIL Because of the 
peculiar flavour, whieh is slightly saline, and “‘ unsatiafy- 
ing,” like that of the Albert Lake; IV. Because of 
the unanimous statement of the natives that it flows 
a little west of north, then north, then north-easterly 
to the Lake of Unyore, which is the Albert; V. Beeause 
of the positive nssurunce of one native traveller, who 
is acquainted with the river along its course, 
its exit out of one lake to its entering into the other ; 
the Semliki river leaves the upper lake, takes a winding 
course, with a strong inclination to the western Tang: 
when, after turning to the north-east, it gradual 
dmws nearer the Ruwenzori range, flows throug] 
Awamba forest and Utuku into the Albert Nyanza, 

From an anthill near Mrsora, I observed that from 
W.N.W., a mile away, commenced a plain, which was o 
duplicate of that which had so deceived the Egyptians, 
a caused them to hail it as their Inke, and that it 


_ ] 








if it were not for certain reefs, formed 
bed-rock under the surface of the lacustrine 
it is not to be doubted that such a river would soon 
drain the upper luke. ‘The forest mm weross from side 


contrast to the. 
of the lake nouriehed, 

We had a mugnifivent view of Ruwenzori just before 
sunset one evening during our halt in Mtsom. A large 
field of snow, and snow-peaks beyond the foremost line, 

in view. During the whole day our eyes had 
line of dark and solemn spurs, their 


















tain shoulders 

oy struggled from behind 

until at last the snowy 

range, immense and beautiful, a perfect picture of 

beautiful and majestic desolateness, drew all eyes and 

riveted attention, while every face seemed awed. The 

natives told us that the meaning of word Rawen- 
zori means the Rain-Maker, or Cloud King. 

On the 14th of June, escorted by a large following af 
Wakonju, we marched four and a half hours, and 
entered Muhamba, in Usongora, Soon after been 
Mtsor we had descended into the grassy plains, whiel 
had been within a calculable period a portion of the bed 
of the lake we were now approaching. About half way, 
we passed « respectable tributary of the Semliki, called 
the Rwimi, which separates Ukonju from Usongora. 
‘One of the streams we crossed soon after issued from a 
hot-spring. 

The next day, an hour's march from Muhamba, we 
left the plain and commenced the ascent of the 


ll 











= WHORE WOR TAORLA MAME 








8 


HUWENZORI IN VIEW. 


mountains, as the range declining towards the south 
forms a lengthened iy promontory, dividing Uson- 
gora into western and eastern divisions, lying on 
either side of it, and both being in past times 
covered by the lake. After an ascent of about 
1,500 feet, a world of hills rose before us, and a 
view worthy of memory would have been obtained but 
for the eternal mist covering the grander ran; Still, 
it was a fascinating sight, and one that in the time to 
come will be often puinted and sketched and described. 
It reminded me greatly of the lower Alps, ns viewed from 
Berne, though these successive ranges of African Alps 
are much higher; but the white-headed mountain kings 
pees aye ee has and at this Led were hidden 
in the marl adds, laving crossed tl jontory , 
we descended 00 feet, at ae a aaa cal 
narrow valley, camped at Karimi, 

At 5.15 PM. the mists and fogs were blown awa; 
Grice heen oF Rarweabsord ated the easelare aALOVER 
the best view obtained yet, a description of which must 
be referred to in another chapter, The photographic 
pas was op in a short time, to tuate one of 
the rarest sights in the world, of one of the grandest 
views that Africa can furnish. 

On the 16th June, after a long march of four and 
three-quarter hours, we arrived at the zeriba of Ruseaad, 
We descended from Karimi about 700 feet to the plain 
of Eastern Usongora, and an hour later we came to 
Ruveruhi River, 40 feet wide, and n foot deep; an ice- 
cold stream, clear as erystal und fresh from the snows, 
Rowenzori was all the morning in sight, o bright vision 
of mountain beauty and glory. os we Aepicaiti 
Rusessd a Meongora herdaman, in the employ of Rukara, 
the General of the Wara-Sura, came across the plain, and 
informed us that he could direct ux to one of Rukara’s 
herds, We availed ourselves of his kind offices, which 
he was performing as patriot son of the soil tyrannised 
over and devastated by Rukara; and fifty rifles were 
sent with him, and in fifteen minutes we were in posses 
sion of a fine herd of twenty-five fat cattle, which we 

vou th 19 


1860. 
Juwe 13. 
‘Karin. 





290 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


120, drove without incident with our one hundred head to 
‘mel’ the zeriba of Rusessé. From a bank of cattle-dung, so 
"high as to be like # great earthwork: round sbout the 

village, we gained our first view of the Albert Edward 
Nyanza, at a distance of three miles. 





OHAPTER XXIX. 


THR SOURCES OF THE NILE-—THE MOUNTAINS OF THE 
MOON, AXD THE FOUNTAINS OF THR NILE. 

‘Pare Jerome Lobo and the Nile=The Se aie Homer's time— 
‘Tlokntwus’s ideas of Africa—Africa after Hipparchue—The great 
pers peers ee of the Margarita Philosophica— 

Mapot Zohn Huyeh“splatoor Mapai Cosa The 

sabtarines ‘the modern tanpemalcer-— Map of Constable, 


" 
part of MEI tho pomesfou of HE. Ai Pusha Afonlaese” 
‘Plan of Mount Gum—A good deveription of Africa by Seheabuddin 
—Tho Nile ecsonting to Abdul Hnsson Ali—Abu Abd Allah 
‘Mohammed ou the Nile river, 

Every reader of this chapter will agree with Pere 
Jerome Lobo, of the Company of Jesus, who wrote in 
the 16th century, that “it is not difficult, after having 
found the sources of the Nile, and of the rivers that run 
into it, to resolve the question as to its origin—a 
question that has eaused so much ey, to ancient 
and modern authors, because they were looking for that 
which could not be discovered in their heads, by which 
they were lost in vain thoughts and reasonings.” 

Por the complacent satisfaction of those who have 
not undergone the harassing anxieties attending the 
exploration of the countries in the region of the Nile 
sources, and who would prefer to content themselves 
with reading about them at home before a sparkling 
fire and under the light of the parlour lamp, 1 beg to 
pent them with a few copies of ancient maps, from 

fomer’s time, forty centuries ago, down to those whence 
we derived instruction in African geography. ‘They will 
observe with pleasure that we have not much to 
boast of; that the ancient travellers, geogmphers, and 





202 IN DARKEST AFRICA, 


186 authors had a very fair idea whence the Nile issued, 
me that they had heard of the Lunae Montes, and the 
Tw Nl trinle lakes, and of the springs which gave birth to the 
famous river of Egypt. We only claim to have barred 
for a time the periodic flights of these interesting: 
features of Africa, from 10° north latitude to as far 
as 20° south Intitude, and from east to west Africa, and 
to have located with reasonable precision the grand old 
Mountains of the Moon, and the Albertine and 
Victorine sourees of the Nile And for a time an 

For “ what profit hath « man of all his labour which 
taketh under the sun! One generation pusseth away, 

and another generation cometh. The thing that hat 
been, it is that which shall be ; and that which is done is 
that which shall be done: and there is no new thing 
under the sun. Is there anything whereof it may be 
said, See, this is new? it hath been already of old time, 
which was before us, There is no remembrance of 
former things; neither shall there be any remembrance 
of things that are to come with those that shall eome 





fetes se ema ee of ee pe reine 
of geographical know succeeding charto, ers 
effaced, and what they in their turn aketohed was 
expunged by those who came after them. In vain 
explorers sweated under the burning sun, and endured 
the fatigues and privations of arduons travel: in vain 
did they endeavour to give form to their discoveries, for 
in few years the ruthless map-maker obliterated all 
away. Cast your eyes over these series of small maps, 
and witness for yourselves what this tribe has done to 
destroy every discovery, and to render labour and 
knowledge vain, There is @ chartographer living, the 
chiefest sinner alive. In 1875,1 found a bay at the 
north-east end of Lake Victoria. A large and moun 
tainous island, eapacious enough to supply 20,000 
people with its products of fond, blocked the entzanoe 
from the lake into it, but there is « winding strait at 
either end of snfficient depth and width to enable an 
Atlantic liner to steam in boldly. The bay hns been 


—— 








MAU-MARERS IN GBNERAL 208 


out, the great island has been shifted elsewhere, 
and the picturesque channels are not in existence on his 
latest maps, und they will not be restored until some 
other traveller, years hence, replaces them as they stood 
in 1875. And young travellers are known to chuckle 
with malicious pleasure at all this, forgetful of what old 
Solomon said in the olden time: “There is no remem~ 
brance of former things ; neither shall there be any ne- 
membrance of things that: are to come with those that 
shall come after.” 

So, thongh it is some satisfaction to be able to 
vindicate the more ancient geographers to some extent, 
I publish at the end of the series of old maps the small 
chart which illustrates what we have verified during our 





APRICA IN Howen’s: Worte. 


late travels. I do it with the painful consciousness 
that some stupid English or German map-maker within 
the next ten years may, from spleen and ignorance, 
shift the basin 300 or 400 miles farther east or west, 
north or south, nnd entirely expunge our labours, 
However, I am comforted that on some shelf of the 
British Museum will be found a copy of ‘In Darkest 
Africa,’ which shall contain these mapa, and that L 
have a chance of being brought forth 48 an honest 
witness of the trath, in the same manner as I cite the 
learned geographers of the olden time to the confusion 
of the map-makers of the nineteenth century. 


nko, 
‘The Nile, 





IN DABKEST AFRICA. 


the ae aketeh of ‘Homer's World,’ which I 


ii of with a few others, 
Dalye® teamed “ata contribution, 





204 
1880, In 
en Have 


iH 


Ge ies his idews of Africa in a map given 
below. Though he had visited Eeypt, pt, it is quite clear 
that not many new discoveries had been mee Accord- 
ing to him the great Egyptian river takes its rie at the 
southern extremity of Africa, where the pigmies live. 








AFRICA IN MAP OF HEKATAUS, 
500 BC. 


The next map of Africa that I wish to introduce for 
inspection is by the * greatest astronomer of bee 
Hipparchus, who lived 100 years ne. His sketo 
tains three distinct lakes, but situate far north of the 
equator. 

Here follows the great Ptolemy, the Ravenstein or 
Justus Perthes of his period. Some new light has been 
thrown by his predecessors, and te has revised and 
embellished whut was knows Te has removed the 
sources af the Nile, with scientific confidence, far south 
of the equator, and given to the easternmost lake the 
name of Coloe Paulus, 








* Judge Charles P. Daly, President of tho American Geographical 
; Now York. 


ii 





MAP-MARERS IN GENERAL. 205 


A thousand yenrs elapse, and bring us to Edrisi, an 
Arab geographer, 1154 a,b, Some little information has 


een gained in the meanwhile of the Dark Interior, The ™™l* 


Mountains of the Moon are prominent now, but several 





HIPPARGHUS. 
100 BC. 


degrees south of the equator, ‘Two of the lakes dischary 
their Sate waters to a third lake, which is north, 
whence the Nile issues, flowing ward towards 
Egypt. We see in it the results of geographical con- 
ferences, and many inquiries from ivory traders. 














FTOLEMY'S MAP, AD 160 


Four centuries Inter we see, by the following map, 
that the lakes have changed their position. Ambitious 
chartographers have been eliciting information from the 
latest traveller. They do not seem to be so well ac- 


af 
Tren 


—- — 


206 IN DARKEST AFRICA 


bad quainted with the distant region eee oe, 
a8 those ancients preceding Edrisi. Nevertheless, 
‘Te Mile Latest travellers must know 








CENTRAL AFRICA 
‘neering ty 
Eon ei. 194 0.0, 


But in the short space of five years new light has been 
thrown again, or is it the mere vagary of a chartographer ? 
Lo! the “Mountains of the Moon” are restored many: 





MAP OF THE MARGARITA PHILOSOPHICA 
A.D, 1503 


degrees below the equator, but there are only two lakes 
south of the equator, while the third has travelled to an 
immense distance north of the line, 

Within thres years Africa seems to have been battered 


—— il 


MAPMAKERS IN GENERAL. 207 


out of shape somewhat, ‘The three lakes have been ts 
attracted to one another; between two of the lakes the Ji 


2, 
i See 





JOHN RUYSCH 
AD.1508. 


Mountains of the Moon begin to take form and rank, 
‘The Mons Lunw are evidently increasing in height and 





SYLVANNUS’ MAP 
ADASH 


Iength. As Topsy might have said, “specs they have 
grown some,” 


298 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


1889, 


F In the following map we see a reproduction of Sebas 
The Mile 





HIERONIMUS DE VERRAZANO 
1529 


Mars Medtttorentem 











wl 
~*» r ® 
J 
* & 
Sey, 8 
~ Bquator 
Mons 
a 
rausroons 


SEBASTIAN CABOT’S MAP OF THE WORLD 
16 Century 


tian Cabot’s map in the sixteenth century. 1 have 


MAPMAKERS IN GENERAL 209 


omitted the eer of elephants and crocodiles, great xno, 
emperors and dwarfs, which are freely seattered over the /™*. 
map with somewhat odd taste. ‘The three Jakes have ™ 
arranged thomselves in line again, and the Mountains of 
the Moon are picturesquely banked at the top head of all 
the streams, but the continent evidently suggests un- 
steadiness generally, judging from the form of it. 

‘That from the sixteenth to the middle of the nine- 
teenth century very little further knowled, tin, 
the sources of the Nile was known may he Sas i 
the map of my school-days, which follows, "There is a 
distinct retrogression by the determined stupidity of the 





ACCORDING vs GEOGRAPHERS or var 16” a 177 CENTURIES 


map-maker. All that we had gathered since the days of 
old Homer down to the seventeenth century—all the 
lakes are swept uway—the Mountains of the Moon ran 
from about 5° to about 10° north of the equator, and 
extend from Long, 20° to the Gulf of Aden. We simply 
owe our ignorance to the map-makers, We no sooner 
discover some natural feature than it is removed in a 
next issue. 

‘The arbitrariness of the modern map-maker is ws bud 
as that of his predecessors. In a late German map, for 
instance, considered to be the beat in Germany, there is 


300 IN DARKKST AFRICA, 


ped being , Kund 
OF and raped kad lost their way, and could not 
ind it; but in the meantime an English missionary 


visited it, and it was left in peace, English map- 
makers are quite as capricious, 


is map, for instance, which has made such cruel 
and iia changes of Homer, Hi yparchus, Ptolemy, and 
others, was published by Constable in 1819, in a fit of 

ated biliousness no doubt. 

lugh Murray, a ae of African travels, published 
in London, 1818, 4 book called an * Historical Account 
of Discoveries und Travels in Africa,’ and as he has been 
an industrious collator of testimony which the best 
authors of twenty centuries could furnish, I avail myself 
of his aasistance. He says : 


Herodotus shows, binrelt to baye known ihe coune of the Kile 
hig solmbly than i has been traced by a 
‘From Yi 


M 
to Moros, the eapital of Ethinpia, was a ‘of fifty-two a 
mrtopieien suoal climepe te. tooteoas er SY ees ORIN 
spahing in all bundrad and fooedapy journey. ‘The rxious dapat 
the interior were Know to him only hy the wary abort naratie ofthe 
‘Esoursion of the Nnsamonoa’ vee to which tho travotlors wore 
carded Goving ty the eastrard te halered i ava tose tha Migs 
though Horodotus conceived it to be the Nile, Aw it was: 

data’ to procoed from the West, it appeared natural that hit river Wun 
ono of the main bunches, 

" Eratonthonen compari Africa to a trapezium, of whieh the Mediters 
aut cont formed one wide, the Nile anotber, the vouthern coat the 
Tangent side, und. the wosters coast tho ite, Bo little were the 

te aware of its exton! that Pliny: Fevnccbend it to be the least of 
the continents, and inferior to Europe. Upon. the Nile, theroforo, # 
mew the habitable world of “Afren, nnd fie ite Mit, at the 
highest known point to which that river had teon ascended, his 
taligaed abet tusm thoouad sted three oF Toc Nanaced. tn) 


* Le wwe devoted to the same uses down to the the of Emin Pasha 











THE MAP OF OUR SCHOOL-DAYS 301 


called the 


‘They atom to have boon full c 
ir nein 10 hae a al eg avaas of Seo praet eit we 


from Inkes tid 
titer (White Nile) iowa from the lake to the south, ie wre ate 
it height by eummer rains ond formas then almost the main body of 


Hal in fame with the Geographical School of Eratosthanos was 
aes his wool displays st inareans Of taal aoe lige 














MAP oF TWENILE BABIN. IBIDAD, 


jah was not, however, alwnya nccinpanied by sounder views 
tidiscovere act Sore ren ‘he tt whs 
formed orc of the whole ‘eourso ofthe Nile, and waa tty 

Tange of tho Mountains of the Mow, But 
‘interior much further south beyond the equator, 
Haptum ” (Kilwa), 

















302 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


ye The Prior of Neuville les Dames et de Prevessin, who: 

Tac. ished extracts from Father Lobo, the 

jesnit, launches into a fine diasertation on the Nile, some 
portions of which are as follows -— 


"The of antiquity have passionately ondeavonred, 
idigonncr, Cho-eoaseme of the Nils, niece BC cana 
that thin discovery wax onl A commuminate their glory, 


«Nihil est quod nosoere malin, 
Quan favit cansus per maculn tana Iatenton, 
yput: wpos: wit, mibi corte videndi 
bellum eivile relinquam.’” 


“Noro wax animated by the mmo thirst for glory, for he despatched 

nenies to ake this reiting vat the report adlantied to itn meored. 
‘mnooees.” 

“The ancients therefore, xourching in vain for the sourcos of the Nile, 

attompted t0 concent thoir Ignorance by mysteries, and thoy related them 

in fables. Even tho interproters of Holy Scripture were not exumpt 












Chas: it 
in. Kthiop 
fublon? 


g the eomatry of Chas, now the Chaar 
feslam. He adds that Homer makes out that it desconds from Jupiter, 
and cally it Anrer: this is what fins eaued Plantus to say, in xpewki 

Of river, which he dow not namo, that i las {te puree In heaven wid 
tundor tho throne of Jupiter ‘The Egyptians, Ethiopinna, Abyaxinians, 


Gymnosopbints, afer making out this river to be a divinity, have thought 
tiemselven obliged to maintain the old ereors—even tho’ snoat abscird 
‘ones. Therofore we should not be astonished, after the poets having 
altributed a heavenly origin to the Nile if the Egyptians, who owe the 
fertility of their country’ to it, have built torples, have drveted: al 
have established festivals in ite honour, tinally, thoy have adi 
under the name of Osirin” 

“The Jews and the Mohammedans, who are far from each other tn 
Wolatry, have thought that the waters of the Nile were holy und lowed, 
‘and the Agons, who live in the environs of the nources of thix river, 


= ——a 














THE SOURCES OF THE NILE. B08 


th instructed in the Christian religion, still offer sacrifices: 60 aay 
fin? lene ad vat woe the roperien to Hole ba 


th are iy called 
‘aftor tho namo of the count through, Hosyohi 

THA ce etna ast called Hsp and taut ithe ver eh hae 

to the constry: Aiurrar& Nehog § rorenie dy oval 

i 





it rbarous 
people; that to arrive thoro torrihle mountains will ave to be erossod, 
rable Kaeate, desert ful of wild beast, who hardly find there 


10 dincovor the sourew of the” Nile bud pone uy 
ight with Teas trouble and expense fonnd what they wore looking for: 
After hearing what the ancients said and thought of 
the sources of the Nile, let us see what we are able to 
gather from the Arabs : 
The following are extracts from part of a manuscript, 


Y 
i 


il H i! iE aH iH 
x itdiasiy PHT ATT tru art ag 


area fe 








ARAB LEGENDS, 305, 





“Gumr.’ Some say it 
moon, but the travolor, 


Sy pa Le 


uy 


, 
? 
i 
i 
#: 

fe 

A 
H 

iE 

a 


43 
i 
gf 
sl 
3 
ite: 
Hi 
int 
a 
Hi 


EEEE. 
ial 
Hie 
oe 
= wa x 
ital 
piste 
Bist 
a i 
Hie 
52 
He 
feist 


ike white ailver glistening wit 
‘became Land stuek to them until they died, avd 


Fi 
I 


E 
i 
F 
Ht 
& 
i 
z 
5 
Be 





A 
nit 
ere 
22582 


l 
i 


‘Tho author of ‘the took called the Mirror of ‘Ages sayy * Hameed 
sou of ‘Biktint, hon slated that Ue fountain which fy the, fist of 
the fountains is in Mount Gurr. Prom this fountain start ton rivers, 
one of which ix the Nile, ‘They say that the Nilo travarses tho fir 

‘then passes into the second end that 
source to the Mediterranean parma 
thnt thong fountain aro the canes of the rian, wherews others eay—and 
‘this is tho most probablo—that the caneo ix the abundance ef rain and 
torrents in Abyeduia und Nubia, and that the delay in the rim reaching, 
Egypt io on account of the great distance, All other river tlow to the 


Gur Ja. mountain on an led 
Opposite foi is te land of erendie, four ton 
aad twenty daye' journey in breadth, and that 





snp tate not learned that Lietenant Stairs in hls scent was guilty of 

ox ¥ 

ay stoma ik the dnriplon of what was ob ne on Rene, 
‘to tho Wahoma herdsmen. 


r. 
VOL. Mt. 20 


4 











H 
i 


28) 
a 


E 
Q 


Ht 





MW Ydyar ol Wadi ‘tho longth of the Nile is two months’ journey 
in Moslom torritery, and four month’ journey in uninhabited r 
‘That ite source is from Mount Gumr beyond the equator, and that 
flows to the light coming ont of the river of darknoss, and tlows by the 
avo of Mount Gunns.” 

“ Mohamined, tho Prophet of God, says 

“Tho Nile comen out of the Gurdon of Parudive, and if you wore to 
examine it when it comen out, you would find i it leaves of Parwdivn” 

“ing Am Kam mentioned above i Tormen 1.” ‘The devila carried 
hhim to thi mountain, which is called Gumr, and there he ew how the 
‘Nile flows oat of the Black Sea and enters into the mountain of Gumr 

‘ing Am Kaam built on the slopes of the mountain a palace haying 
ighty-five statues, to which he eollectod all the water that flows from 
‘tos mountain, conducting it in yuulted conduits until the water roachen: 
the xtatnos and flows out of their mouths in meaxored quantities and al= 
culated cubic contents, It theuco flows in many rivers until it reuchos 





rj jis renowned Tdrisi is tho same as the patriarch Kinta 
fn tho legend of the Waganda, ee * Throwgh the Dark Coutinent.t 
f,Jb i exendingy lk the logent of itu, only # posses more 








__ » | 





ARAB LEGENDS, 807 


the Great Central Lake.* Round this lake ix the country of 

and their gret city Garma, In thix grout lake is a mountain tm 
Yorn it, alng.oak of the take and ettending Ahi 
‘mountain the Nile flows on ‘and then it: in the 
ane of Nubie, oe division going to the far wert, and in thin brunch 


i 








it divides inte four branchen and thuy flows into t an 
Alexundrin, It is waid that, thros of those branchen flow into the Medi- 
{ereancan, whereas the fourth branch flows into the Balt Lake usd thence 
to Mexandrin, 


“Th in mid that the rivers Bihon, Gihon, the Nile and the Euphrates, 
all ast fom a. gran jasper, done, fren & mountain, and that this 
monntain is near the Dark Seat. That the waters are thi 
honey, and more fragrant than musk, but that the waters are to 
{he coiurse of the flow. 
‘ cae Tex Fie, 5 ta, Gomar, says in. ohbae on medicine 
(andl L have from the wut y 
Pay beg ae 

i this ‘mountain start ton rivers from 


extreme uninhabited conntry af the west by 57%, from the equator 
T and 31’ to the sonth, and thew two lakes are the diameter of 
cach boing 5°. Ont of each ono of 

which amply into one grewt lake in the ft is 
the uninhabited country of the ye As word 10, This distant north of 
the Eee re Euch one of these 


5 
2 
= 
| 

: 

H 
Hi 
# i 
ie 
THe 





5 
H £ 
Bi 


and that he came to this conclusion becaua * " 
same time, and because the crocodile is found in them beth,’ and 
‘he, Mod of Jand-cultivation wpon both fe the muna’ ‘he hin 


iE 


Hae isetatin etary os ae ea 
and Sumer tho aime to tbe laid of lth 
ed Donarsnc 


hon Af the Ike won 80 fot hior—AiC mht ow 


“Fake anor Edward (). 
Porhapsle moaus Zing, or Eastern littoral called Zinghiber, Zanjibar 
—Zansitat: 


808 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


“Phe luke into which the water flown is called Bilihu.* Part ot the 
Nile flows to the Sondan country, then parsos to the enst of Kumed, anit 
then flows along one of the mountains of this country and comex out at 
the equator, Thon it pusios ont from m Inke there, and continues going 
westwa.. 10 tho countey of Lakuur, and thonce worthwarda until it 
flows int> the great oosan, ‘Then it flows to the conntry of Abynainia, 
‘end thence to the country of the Soudan, and then to the eastof Dongola, 
until it comen pon thé cataraots of Avmouan, thane it flaws into the 
‘Mediterrancan. 








JEBEL CUMR, on KAMMAR 
Mountuins of the Moon 






Lake 


The Great Lake 


MOUNTAINS OF "mE MOOY.—MAKSOLDK, 11TH CENTURY, 


“Makrisi says, ‘There ix no difference of opinion, ‘The Nile comos 
from Mount (umr.’  Makrini also says that !Morki-Fel, the xo of 
Doobur-Eel, the son of Gurulat, the son of Asfusun, the son of Adam, om 
coming to Egypt with » number of the tribe of Arubat, settled in Kigypt 
‘and there built the city of Asaus und other cities, and they dug the Nile 
until thoy led the water down to them, booause, before that timo, it did 
not flow regularly, but used to wproad out over the land unto the country 
of King Mekronsé’of Nubo, ‘Thay regulated the course of the Nile nil 
drow frou it various otroams to their different cities which they hn 














* Batwa (2), from the piigmiea 





ARAB LEGENDS. 


uf 
aNepegece guseagacs 
we i rl 
Balu) 
fala 8 
ea aces 2 ' 
Hain 4 Leap i 
heny #: 2 
Bit Ess ie 
Hale : 


BEQHEGUE 8 HEH 
iene A 





33 Spas Pore 
RET 
anlanne 








310 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 
by 


ib vt Iakoo. —— uke comes the Nile, the grestost, and. 
Bea th sey ofall ho wai" Many ive dv rn hin 
he Djennwa. ‘This 
Ln Srratonatat cree me 
Sop A nctct 


Darnietta. 


Darond She equster. Many youre come Grom Vile mociunln aoa unl 

of ‘river 

be etsy aa 
country of 


Abdul Hassan Ali, ibu el Hasseyn, ibu Ali el Massoudé, 
orn at Baghdad, and who came to Egypt 955 A.D. 
where he closed his accounts with the world, and brought 
hi many travels to an end, writes :— 


“Thave soon in a geography 1 of the Nilo flowing from the 
Monatalos of tho Moon— eYecat Keak Z 


tors burst an ‘nn ‘twolve wpe and flow ere two | 
Meo unto tho ponds of Ih “Amer on “tnt 000 Tales, 


Pe a da gh a ak ug 
country of the Zon} (Zanzibar).” 

As I finished the transcription of these interesting ald 
Jogondls, L said in my heart : “As it happened unto the 
ancient authors, so it will happen unto me. Why was 
I then more wise? I considered all travail, and ever 
right work-—that for this a man is envied of his neigh- 
ase ‘Therefore T hated life, beeaums the work that is 
done under the sun is grievons unto me—for all is vanity 
und vexution of spi 

‘The following was kindly translated by His Excelleney 
Count de Landburg, the Consul-General at Cairo 
Sweden and Norway. 





Chime od-din. Abu Abd Atlab Mobarasned ed Disnachgd (born 1956 4.0, 
Doe 1896 (81))n his oopeapy, Muhbbat fdsdar eat at Bupr wake 


a — | 





Jake, odited by, Professor 
Mebren, St, Peterwburg,, 


Saket & 





four rivers of Paruline = 
“Tho seholues say nbou 
this, that tho 


river called the Nile 
river of Nubia, Its sprin 
‘nev in tho Mountains of the 
Moon, which divide the 
inhabited Ian to tho south 
‘of tho equator, and that on 
the outside © from the 
southern unknown coun 
fries, whereof there is no 
Unformntion, The amber 
of ite springs ave ten rivers, 
running with lato in ton 
valleys botwoon high trees 
and compact ‘The 
Alistanee between tho tor 
‘Mot teen days a they 
about ant 
fall together flow ‘into. two 
Imrge lakes, the cistanee 
two there being four 
aye. ‘Tho extensian of 
oriental Inko with all 
islands and snountains 
rather four days to him 
‘that passes mrotnel it, and 
the extension of the ‘peci- 
dental is about five days 
to him that jusnes around 
48, and in both these lakers, 
nd in the land that fies 
‘between the streams abory 
montionel, are the wild 
tribes, whose nating 
rossmnbles to that of the 
boasts. ‘They do eat whom- 
soover Use nasal, aan 
iat ontabion c 
nother trite, kills hint and 
feuts him, an tho game ie 
eaten. ‘The sitmation of 
‘thew lake ix from S0-56° 
Jongtute from the spein 
fof the river, and from t=?" 
Jatitude on the south of the 
equator, ‘The Oriental lake 
in oallod Kati and Tamnion 
ex-Sudanest, and the ocei= 
dental Dayadainn and Gale 
‘und Hajami, Fusthor inane 
from oach of these two Inkos 





















SAP OF MELEE BARI TODAY, HOM EUPHRATES, "EB LAT A 


a 











CHAPTER XXX. 
RUWENZORI: THE CLOUD-KING. 


Recont travellers who havo filed to we thix rango—Its clascieal history 
The range of mountains from Pispah hy us in 1887—Tho 
a somes an sacy maouatal Phemed by sf January 


fields of snow and. great, tract i 
Rain-Creator or, Ghope Flag —iapeiod made on ail of us by the 
skyoy create and snowy breasts of Ruwenzori, 
Avrrn the stories of the days of old, let us proceed to a9, 
depict the Rawenzori range—which is the modern | Jur 
African term among ey tribes of the Lake Bt 
regions for whut was ealled Montes Lunas or Mons 
Tame by the classical and Europeun ogoapirs, and 
by the compilers of travels as Jel ume —Guinr, 
or Kammar—the Mountains of the Moon—as it was seen 
hy us, Several centuries have passed away since it was 
last seen by any one capable of communicating an 
intelligent account of his travels, and it may be many 
years will elapse before it ix again seen by any English 
ing owes The Nile route is closed for many a 
lay to come: the advance of the Manyuema, ly 
sprealing out far along the West like an immense line of 
irmishers, destroying and slaying as they march eust- 
ward and northward, renders it very doubtful whether 
subsistence would be found for an Expedition from the 
west ; the ferocity and number of the Wara Sura, and. 





Si IN DARKEST APRICA. 


ag the treacherous character of the Wanyoro, make it 
uve. certain that only a powerful force ‘can ever be 
eww’ to puss through ‘Toro; and the shifting events tran 
spiring in Uganda, which influence Uddu and Ankori, 
sniggest a doubt, whether, in defiance of U; the 
south-east route would be practicable; and eastern 
route also presents serious ities. For these, as well 
‘as for other reasons, such as the failure of 40 many 
modern travellers—Sir Samuel and Lady Baker, Gossi 
Pasha, Mason Bey in 1877, our own Expedition in 1887, 
and Emin Pasha in 1888—to see what ought to have 
seen, it is quite necessary that a more detailed 
description should be given of this range 

Tt is quite « mysterious fret that the localities 
reached by Sir Samuel Baker, Ruwenzori ought to have 
been as visible us St. Paul's dome from Westminster 
Bridge. And any person steaming round the Lake 
‘Albert, as Gexsi Pasha and Mason Bey did, would be 
within easy view of the snow mountains— provided, of 
course, that they were not obscured by the dense clonds 
and depths of ‘mist under which for about 300 days 
of the year the great mountain range veils its colossal 
crown, 

‘Then, again, its classical history : the fables that have 
heen woven about it; its relation to the dear old Nile, 
the time-honoured Nile—the Nile of the Pharaohs, of 
Joseph, Moses, and the Prophets; its being the source 
whence so many springs of the Nile issue—its being the 
creator of the “ Sea of Darkness,” Lake Albert Edward, 
from whose bovom the Semliki—Nile to the West, 
and the infant Kafur to the East—emerge, to feed the 
Albert on one hand and the Victoria Nile on the others 
the very mountain before whose shrine Alexander and 
Cesar would have worshipped—if the poeta may be 
believed ; its rare appearance out of the night-black 
clouds ; its sudden and mysterious apparition on a 
large portion of that “illimitable lake” of a modern 
traveller; its quaint titkek—the Mountains of the Moon, 
80 often sought in vain ; its massive and rugged grandeur, 
and immense altitude ; all these explain why Ruwenzori 











—_—— SC 


ROWENZORL, AND THE TWIN CONES. B15 


demands more than a brief notice. Who that has gazed iso, 
on the Bernese Oberland for the firat time will ever | Ju 
forget the impression? In my twenty-two years of "= 
African travel Raiibeonrses and apectacle were unique, 
and its total unex; ess Of appearance, as well us its 
own interesting character and history, appeal to me to 
describe as clearly ns possible, and with some detail, what, 
we sw. 

While proceeding towards Lake Albert, in Decem- 
ber, 1887, we obtained a view from Pisgah of a long 
range of mountains, wooded to the summits, which we 
estimated to be about 7,000 to 8,000 fect in height. It 
lay from 8.E. to 8 On returning from the Lake, the 
sume month, two enormous truncate cones suddenly 
appeared into view, bearing 8.4W. They might, we 
believed, be between 10,000 and 12,000 feet hi 
They were called the Twin Cones, and we thought 
them remarkable features, The sight of them suggested 
that in their neighbourhood, or between them and the 
Gordon Bennett Mountain, would be found an interest- 


Ba scuneye 
en returning to the Nyanza for the second time in 
April, 1888, the Twin Conea were invisible; but on the 
26th of mays 1888, when scarcely two hours’ march 
from the Lake beach, lo! a stupendous enowy mountain 
appeared, bearing 215° magnetic—an almost square- 
central mass—about thirty miles in length, 
and quite covered with snow; situate between two 
great ridges of about 5,000 feet lesa elevation, which 
extended to about miles on cither side of it, 
On that day it was visible for hours. On surmountin; 
the tuble-land, the next day or so, it had disw pao, 
Not « trace of either Twin Cones or Snowy Mountain 
was in view, 

On returning for the third time to the Nyanzu, in 
January, 1839, ond during our long stay at Kavalli for 
two and n half months, it was unseen, until snddenly 
casting our eyes, a8 usual, towards that point where it 
ought to be visible, the entire Tengeh ‘of the range 
burst out of the cloudy darkness, and gratified over a 


y | 





zone of milk-white moe enfolding it in the middle 
caused it to resemble a spectral mountain isle sailing in 
mid-air—to realize a dream of an Isle of the Blest. As 
the sun descended westerly the misty zone drifted away, 
and the floating apparition became fixed to nether 
regions of mountain s} and the sharply-cut outlines 
and broader details might be easily tr through the 
binoculars. Though we were healy eighty miles off, 
we could even sce ridgy fringes and tufted clumps of 
troes, resting on broad ledges, or on mountain spires, or 
coping some turret-like crag, which leaned over profound 
depths below. We even agreed that the colour of the 
bare rock easques fronting the glare of the sun, and 
which were ate againat the lucent blue beyond, were 
of a purplish brown, We saw that the side presented 
to our viow was singularly steep and probably mnscale- 
able, and that though the snowy fields seemed to be 
mere patches, yet many feuthery stretches descended far 
below the summit of a bare ridge which intervened 
between the central range and the Balegga Hills, twelve 
miles from us, over whose summit, Ruwenzori, sixty-five 
miles further, loomed lange and grand. 

Tt will then be understood that a transparent atmo- 
sphere is very rare in this region, and that had our stay 
been as short as that of previous travellers, Ruwenzori 
might have remained longer unknown. 

AViati sre wach lalieacchug Pioathiid nico eae 
western flanks of Mazamboni’s, and the Balegga Hills, 
during the month of May, 1889, the great snowy range 
was frequently, almost daily, visible—not in its entirety, 
but by fits and starts, a peak here, a mountain shoulder 
there, with sometimes only u dim visage of the crowns, 
and at other times the lower parts only in view. The 
snow gleamed white out of a dark and cloudy frame, or 





~_— 





=| 


THE MOUNTAINS OF THE MOON. SiT 


the flanks, dark as night, loomed like storm-clonds, bodi 
rain and squalls, At rare periods the whole appem 
with « brilliant sharp-cut clearness that was very useful 
to us to map our future route. 

‘Yet ull this time we scarcely understood its charucter, 
and not until we had crossed the Semliki river, an 
had traversed a great ion of the dense and tall 
woods, which thrive in the hothouse atmosphere of the 
Semliki Valley, had we any intelligent comprehension 
of it. 

‘The average European reader will perfectly understand 
the character of the Semliki Valley and the flanking 
ranges, if I were to aay that its average breadth is about: 
the distance from Dover to Calais, and that in length it 
would cover the distance between Dover and,Plymouth, 
or from Dunkirk to St. Malo in France, Por the 
English side we have the Balegga hills and rolling 
plateau from 3,000 to 3,500 feet ubove the valley. 
the opposite side we have heights ranging from 3,000 
to 15,500 feet above it. Naw: Bava! ocenpies about 
ninety miles of the eastern line of mountains, and pro- 
jects like an enormous bastion of an unconquerable 
fortress, commanding Gn the north-east the approaches 
by the Albert Nyanza and Semliki Valley, eacuaes 
southern side the whole basin of the Albert Edward 
Lake, ‘To # passenger on board one of the Lake Albert 
steamers eding south, this great bastion, on a clear 
day, would seem to be a range running east und west ; 
toa traveller from the south it would appear as barring 
all paasage north. To one looking at it from the 
Balegga, or western plateau, it would appear as if the 
slowly rising table-land of Unyoro was but the glacis of 
the mountain range. Its western face appears to be so 
precipitous as to be unscaleable, and its southern side 
to be « series of traverses and ridges deseending one 
below the other to the Albert Edward Lake. While its 
eastern face presents a rugged and more broken aspect, 
lesser bustions project out of the range, and is further 
defended by isolated outlying forts like Gordon Bennett 
Mountain, 14,000 to 15,000 feet high, and the Mackinnon 











818 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


ta, Mountain eens ie ‘That would be a fair 


pane ep vere 
ee ie il rincipal of the he ROW ange | is ont 
| a ne oo River, and. 
] Mert Edward Lake. the Katonga flowin, og a 

Victoria, and the Kafur into the Victoria 
fed from the eastern face of Rawenzori, The sits 
River, emptying into Lake Albert direct, sick See 
northern extremity of the mountains. 

During our journey southward, ; chron the ae 
Valley and along the shores of the Al Ae i 
counted sixty-two streams which r 
Ruwenzori alone, the most important: pr oral 
Rami, Rubutu, Singiri, Ramilulu, Butahu, iat 
ae ise descending a the See 
‘uverahi, Nyamagasani, Unyamwambi, Nong 
i Biimoge tive, pootiagitta the Albert Edward, 

By boiling point the upper lake was ascertained to. 
be it an altitude of 3,807, Earle and Lake Albert at, 
2,850 feet above the sea; thus making « difference of 
level of 957 feet for about 150 miles of river. Hees 
fore, besides a strong current which we observed, and 
rapids, the Semliki itor must have a considerable 
ae of grewt cataracts in its course from lake to 


‘The Semliki Valley is noted for its hot-house eba- 
nacter only for some forty miles, ‘That Yportion of it 
exposed to the sweep of the gales from Lake Albert: 
seems to have but a sour soil, for the yield of it is am 
acrid grass, rejected by cattle, and thin forests of ueneiu ; 
but between this and the portion of exposed lake to the 
upper end is a goil go rich and elie roduetive that would 
rival the best soils in the world, The natives have long: 
ago discovered this fact, for they have gathered in 
multitudes of small tribes to elear the thick forest 
and plant their banana and plantain stalks. One cam 
scarcely travel a mile in uny direction without coming 
across a luxuriant, heayy-fruited plantain grove. In no 
part of Afrion may be seen such abundance of food, not 
even in Uganda, Ten such columns us I led might 


nit “ROMEIV SVT GNY GAYA LAEWIY MAVT "HORLTAN AO AGHA aT SOMME 














PERPETUALLY SHROUDED IN MIST. 821 


have revelled in abundance. The plantain fruit, when 
mature, measured from twelve to eighteen inches in 
length, and thick as the fore-arm of an ordinary man. 

It ocenpied us sixteen days to traverse this rich forest: 
region, generally distinguished by the name of Awamba, 

x the tribe. and dunng that time we had ten separate 
rainfalls, several of them lusting over nine hours, while 
it thundered daily. Besides this, when we issued out of 
the forest, and clung to the grassy foot of the range, at 
a few hundred feet of altitude above it, we observed that, 
as far as we could see, the forest extended unbroken, 
except by the numerous banana pein There 
were many lateral depressions, marking the courses of 
the streams, but few clevations of any im) , but 
over the whole slowly sniled the snow-white mist in 
gular streams; these, in a few momenta, 
jomed into a universal muss, which to us, 
looking down upon it, resembled an’ inverted sky. 
All this waa very annoying to us as curious sight- 
seers, anxious to Know the strange world we were in; 
but it furnished sageotions as to the reason why this 
part was 50 especially prolific, and why Rmwenzori was 
so coy. No winds could cool this ion of the valley, 
or waft the vapours away and clear the atmosphere 
from an entire corner of the compass, owing to the 
extent and great height of Ruwenzori. ie great 
mountain intercepted every breeze from cast round to 
south, and prevented the everlasting exhalations of the 
valley from being blown in that direction, but, on their 
reaching the intense cold above, distilled them, and re= 
diffused them in copious showers of rain. From north 
to west the northern range of mountains obstructed the 
free Pameze of the winds, and aasiated to maintain that 
equable heat of the valley that was necessary for the 
fostering of that marvellous vegetation, In every al 











of this region the smoke hung over us liken 

smarting the eyes and half suffocating us. In such a 

Nature's conservatory as the Semliki Valley, buried 

under ita own perpetual warm exhalations, vegetation, 

‘a @ matter of course, finding every favourable element 
‘VOL. Th, a1 


1889, 
Jone, 
cr 





im 


Ruwensorl, 


2 IN DARKEST AFRICA, 


therein necessary for its and nourishment, 
Ra otis prafieicn, Where tha lames indlaon oe eet 
4 tall and stately forest, with an impervious underwood 
of ase trees, bound together and sometimes alto; 
hidden by countless climbing vines and robust ts 5 
where the humus is thinner, as near the foot of the 
vange, dense crops of cane-grass, from ten to fifteen feet 
in height, flourish luxuriant and impenetrable, a 
tree-stem has its green robe of soft moss, drippin, 
dew, and each tree-fern or horizontal Res its 
orchids, or broad elephant-eared it. Every rock is 
clothed with lichens, and if but slightest hollow is 
found in it, there will be seen a multitude of tropic 
planta Sceysiiog every inch. In abort, everywhere, 
oak upon the perpendicular face of a lute-moved 
, Vegetation thrives of every variety of green- 
ness, form, and character. 

About a day before we finally issued out of the forest 
region we were made still further aware what curious: 
novelties in plants a natural conservatory can produce, 
Between Mtarega and Ulegga we were astonished at 
the huge girth of the wild fate plant, some of them 
being eighteen inches in diameter two feet above the 
ground. The fronds were gathered at the top of the 
atalk like an artificial houquet, but presently spread out, 
two feet wide and ten feet in length, forming graceful 
curves and a most cooling shade, the leaves circling the 
flowers, whieh were like soe rosettes with drooping 
tuwels, There seemed to he no limit to the altitude at 
which these wild bananas grew, though we observed 
that their number on the mountain slopes heeame more 
limited above 8,000 feet. The tree-ferns, reaching as 
high as thirty feet from the ground, presented them= 
Gator ni bi aarian bic groves alti the moist 
hollows or near bunks of streamlets, while an un 
pee, of smaller ferns grew in their neighbourhood, as 
thougl they were determined to prove their relationship to 
the giantaof the fern family. ‘Then the calamus, eli 
ing from one tall tree to another with resolute grasp, 
next attracted our attention. In the neighbourhood of 





—— 








THE SEMLIKI VALLEY. 323 


such fern-groves the trees were veritable giants, the 
orchids in their forks were most numerous, und the 


elephant-eared lichen studded the horizontal branches, 26" 
hea , 


while every tree was draped with soft green moss, 
with dew, and seemed sodden through excess of moisture, 

Though the forest region ends aa we enter Ulegga, 
the interval between it and Mtsora is eo devote 
cultivation by the natives that it is only at the latter 
place that we become fully aware that we have entered 
a new region, Looking towards the W.N.W, 
the commencement of a brown grassy plain, the very 
ae of that extending round the southern end af 

¢ Albert. In appearance it is as flat as though the 
level bottom of a lake had just appeared in view and 
continues thus to the Albert Edward Nyanza, 

Between Mtsora and Muhamha we travelled along 
the edge of the low plain or ancient bed of the northern 
portion of the Southern Nyanza, but soon after leaving 
the last village we h to breast the mountains in 
order to avoid the circuitous route along the plain round 
the promontory of Sungwé-Mirembé. 

As we journeyed towards the south-west over these 
hills we observed that in the same manner as a change 
had come over the character of the Semliki Valley 
the slopes of Ruwenzori had also undergone similar 
change. Instead of the thick forests which climbed 
the lower slopes and covered the ravines, and wil 
bananas and wonderful ferneries, and general sappiness 
and Inxuriance of the various species of vegetation, 

torul grass waved on every slope und crest, while a 
Froalthfal cool breeze caused us to bless our fortune in 
having parted from the close, heated and moist atmo- 
sphere of the Semliki. 

But in two days’ march we observed that there was 
another el We were in a much drier climate, and 
the superficial aspect of the country wus much as might 
be expected from a comparatively rainless district—it 
was that of a worn-out and scorched country. The 
grass waa yoid of succulency and nutriment. ‘The 
slopes of the rounded hills presented grooves of a brick 





1880, 
Jone. 





IN DARKEST AFRICA. 
a, dust colour ; here and oe ore stunted tree with: 


wrinkled and distorted bran and sive 
‘Ruweurt Joaves, too surely denoting that the best of the soil had 

heen cou or consumed by annual 

tions, that vegetable life was derived under 

circumstances despite the copious showers of the rainy 

season, As these hills, which constitute the southern 

flank of Ruwenzori, ent themselves, the 

below, between their and Lake Albert 

share their meagre, famished, treeless, and uninteresting 

character. Though the vegetation differs, the gum-trees, 

such as the acacia, the rigid black eaphorbia, the milk 

weed, are indications of u lean soil and sult. 

earth, nnd in reality such is the character of the bed 

the receded Nyanza, 

Tn brief words, the north-west and west sides of 
Ruwenzori, blessed with almost daily rains and with ever- 
fresh dews, enjoy perpetual spring and ure robed in 
eternal verdure; the south and south-west sides have 
their well-defined seasons of rain and drought, eet 





seen during the dry seasou, no greater contrast, can 
Dated Phat opposing views of nature's youth 
and nature's decay. 

There are many doubtless, like myself, who, while 
ing upon any ancient work, be it au i 
‘yramid or Sphynx, be it an Athenian Parthenon, 
Palmyrene sun temple, Persepolitan palace, or even 
an old English castle, will readily confess to feeling 
nu peculiar emotion at the sight. The venerableness 
of it, which time only can give, its associations with 
men long ago gathered to their futhers, the builders 
and inhabiters now quite forgotten, appenl to a certain 
sympathy in the living. For its history there is a vague 
yearning; its age awakens something like exultation 
that we little mortals can build such time-defying 
structures, But more powerful and higher is ‘that 

emotion which is roused at the sight of a hoary 

mountain like this of Ruwenzori, which we know to be 
countless thousands of years old. When we think how 
long it required the melted snow to carve out these 


| 


THE ETERNAL STORM-CLOUDS. 825 


ravines, hundreds of fathoms deep, through the rocky 
cone of the range, or the required to spread ont the 
débris from its sides and bosom to cover the Semliki 
Valley and the Nyanza plains, we are struck dumb at 
the immeasurableness of the interval between that a 
when Ruwengori rose aloft into being; and in reply to the 
atill small voice which seems to ask—* Where wast thou 
when the foundations of the earth were laid? Declare 
if thou hust understanding,” we become possessed with 
a wholesome awe, and can but feel a cheerful faith that 
it waa for us to have seen it, 

Another emotion is that inspired by the thought that 
in one of the darkest corners of the earth, sh: by 
perpetual mist, brooding under the eternal storm- 
clouds, surrounded by darl and mystery, there has 
been hidden to this day a sai among pica the 


Nile brings on, another. Tn fancy we Toole dawn along 
thnt eroo i 


—bustling, jostling, or lounging ; and wo feel a pardon- 
able pride in being able to inform them for the first time 
that much of the sweet water they drink, and whose 
virtnes they so often exult, issues from the deep and, 
extensive snow-beds of Ruwenzori or Ruwenjura-" the 
Cloud-King.” 

Thongh from the nearest point to the central range 
we were distant eight English miles in an wir line, during 
the few brief clear views obtained by us, especially that 
from Bakokoro, examination through a good b 
informed us of the reason why so rauch snow wns re 
on Ruwenzori, As will be seen from the various sk 


nto, 
Jone, 
Mowanzomt, 





i 
a 


a6 IN DARKEST AFRICA 


#40, of the profile, the summit of the range is broken up 


into many sharp triangular casques or narrow saddle~ 
shaped ridges, Each casque, separately examined, 
seems to be a miniature copy of the whole and 
dented by the clements, time und weather, wind, rain, 
frost, and snow, and every side of Ruwenzori appears 





‘View OF ROWENSORE FHOM 
AKOKONO WHRETEINN CONE, 


to represent, though 
in an acuter degree, 
the multitudinons ir 
regularities of slopes 
and crests 80 characteristic of ita mighty neighbours 
which lie nearest to us, and are fully exposed to the 
naked eye. Mostly all these triangular casque-like 
tops of the mango are so precipitous that, despite the 
everlasting snowfalls hardened by the icy winds blowing 
over their exposed sides and summits, very little snow ia 





—_ ” 





4 SNOWY CONTINENT. aT 


seen; but about 300 feet below, as may be estimated, 1860, 
ground more adapted for the retention of the snow is, 2 
found, which in some is so extensive as to represent, 
a vast field. Below this, however, another deep precipice 
exposes its brown walls, and at the foot of it out, 
another great field of snow joined here and there by 
sloping ground, and this explains why the side of the 
range presented to view is not uniformly covered with 
snow. and why the fields are broken up by the brown 
itches, For quite 3,000 feet from the summit, as may 
seen most clearly from the view obtained from 
Karimi, there is illustrated a great snowy continent 
enclosing numerous brown islands, 
Naturally where the erests are so steep and naked, 
and where the walls of the precipices are so lofty, the 
rough weather to which they are exposed contributes to 
their dismantling and minous crumbling. Fragments 
of rock and tons of rocky dust and particles SS 
above on the cor) snow-bed below, which imper- 
ceptibly moves through the influence of thawing and 
undermining of the bed by the trickling water, Sow 
wards towards the valley a league below, As it descends 
the thaw inereases, and the movement of the snow-bed 
is more rapid, until, arriving in the neighbourhood of 
tropic hent, or buried in a great cloud of tepid vapour 
from the valley beneath, there is a sudden dissolution 
of the snow, and the rocky fragments, débria and dust, 
borne by the snow, are hurled downward, crashing 
through the ravines and over the slopes, until they are 
arrested in the valley by some obstruction, and form « 
bank near the debouchure of a ravine, or are scattered 
over many au acre below the smooth slope of a hill, 
Sometimes these ascending fields snow, by the 
velocity of their movements, grinding and dragging 
power, weight and compnetness of their bodies, cause 
extensive landslips, when tracts of wood and bush are 
borne sheer down, with all the which nourished 
them, to the bed rock, from which it will be evident that 
enormous masies of material, consisting of boulders, 
rock fragments, pebbles, grevel, sund trees, plants, and. 














ipitated from the countless mountain al 
‘des into the of the Semliki, 
Jula River 


jure nil 


ks 


striking feature, and point to glacial influence, — 
Between Bukoko and the mountains Hirvonillan 7 
and stretebing along their base southward for five or six 
miles, is another great trot consisting of just such débn 
as the side of a mountain would naturally consist it 
but being principally of loose matter, it ned 
through a long period of rainfalls a tolerably smooth 
gradated surface. 

Tf we consider these circumstances as oon 
periodically since the upheaval of the great range, 
that mighty subsidence which created the wide and deep 

If now embraced hy the Albert Edward Nyanza, the 

liki Valley, and Albert, we need not gréntly 
wonder t] Ruwenzori now is but the skeleton of what 
it was originally: “Dust thou art, and unto dust shalt 
thou ret Tts head haa been shorn of much of its 
glory of amplitude ; ita shoulders have been worn and 
abraded, through its side scores of streams have channeled: 
doep, and the ribs of it now stand, not bare and denuded, 
but marking indisputably what wearing and battering 
it has experienced since it was born out of fire. Slowly 
but surely the mountain is retiring to the place whenes 
it came. A few ages hence the Albert Edward Nyanga 
will be a great plain, and at a later period Lake Albert 


ee 





= DRAIN ROUA "PHOANAAAIE 











THE MIST. BBL 


will share the same fate. Geographers of that far-off 
epoch will then rub their eyes should they chance to 
discover the outlines of the two Nyanzas and intervening 
valley as they were described in 1889, 

On most days, the early hours of morning ushered 
into view a long, solemn, and stupendous mass, dark 
as night, the summits of which nppeared to approach 
very closely to the clondless grey sky. But as toward 
the east the fast-coming day changed the grey to gold, 
faint bars of white clouds became visible above, and 
simultaneously ulong the base of the range there rose 
stealthily a long line of fleecy mist, ‘This was presently 
drawn within gaping valleys and fissures in the lo 
wherein it ascended with the upward draught in rolling 
masses along the slants of their crooked windings, 
gathering consistency and density as they ascended, yet 
changing their shapes every instant, Detached portions 
floated to the right and left, to attract unto them the 
straying and scattered mists issuing one by one from 
tae found recesses of the chasms. Then, united in a 
long swaying line, robing the legions af hill shoulders, 
they issned into view from every flaw and ee in the 
slope, and ranged in order, it mppeared as though the 
intention was to rally round the immense white range 
above, As the mist, now dense and deep, began to feel 
the movement of the air in the higher alnitanes its 
motion became quicker, more sudden in assuming new 
forms, and out of the upper ravines a host of restless, 
rolling white companies joined the main line, the fore= 
most surging boldly ahead and leading the way, irre- 
sistibly, skyward, 

By the time the ann is but a fourth of an hour above 
the eastern horizon, and is beginning to expose the 
beanties that lie hid in snow-beds upon high mountain. 
tops, and is playfully lavishing minbow colours uround 
their borders and valances, lo! insensibly, as it were, 
the mist, now formidably thiek and broad, with bold 
and numerous vanguards, has approached the snow, and 
rivals it in dazzling whiteness; and presently, receiving 
full in its front the clear and strong sunshine, exeels it 











1660, 
Huwensorh. 





B82 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


rides 
jem the snow and the le pinnacles of the range 
i : But as minute after minute adds 


nn 
| 


ry 
alpine crest, the mist loses its beauty and splendour of 
colonring, and becomes like a loaden-colonred fog, until 
finally, so great has been the sccurmulation, it becomes 
black and terrible as a tempest cloud, and thus rests 
during the entire day, and frequently until far into the 
night. Sometimes. however, a half-hour or so before 
sunset, the cloud is blown away, and peak after peak, 
creat after orest, snowy fields and mountain shoulders 

in full glory into light, and again we have a 
short but glorious view before night falls and covers 
Ruwenzori with a still darker mantle. 

These brief—too brief—views of the superb Rain- 
Sreutor or Cloud-King, us the Wakonju fondly termed 
their mist-shrouded mountains, fill the gazer with a 
feeling as thongh a glimpse of celestial splendour was 
obtained. While iv cave, T have observed the raj 
faces of whites and blacks set fixed and uplifted 
speechless wonder towards that upper region of eold 
brightness und perfect pence, so high above mortal 
reach, so holily tranquil and restful, of such immaculate 
and stainleas purity, that thought: and desire of ox] 
sion were altogether too deep for utterance, t 
stranger contrast could there be than our own nether 
world of torrid temperature, sternal green si 
plants, and never-fading Inxuriance and verdure, witl 
its savagery aud war-alarms, and deep stains of blood- 
red sin, to that lofty mountain king, elad in ita pure 
white raiment of snow, surrounded by myrinds of 
dark mountains, low as bending worshippers before 
the throne of a monarch, on whose cold white face 
were inscribed “Infinity and Everlasting!” These 
moments of supreme feeling are memoruble for the utter 
abstraction of the mind from ull that is sordid and 









" — | 


THR SNOWY BREASTS OF RUWENZORI. 888 


ignoble, and ita utter absorption in the presence of 
unreachable loftiness, indescribable majesty, and con- 
straining it not only to reverentially admire, but to 
adore in silence, the image of the Eternal. Never can 
a man be so fit for Heaven as during such moments, for 
however scornful and insolent he may have been at 
other times, he now has become as a little child, filled 
with wonder and reverence before what he hus conceived 
to be sublime and Divine. We had boon strangers for 
many months to the indulgence of any thought of thia 
character, Our senses, between the hours of sleepin 
and waking, had been Ae hy the imperious an 
imminent. necessities of each hour, which required un- 
relaxing vigilance and forethought. It is true we had 
heen touched with the view from the mount called 
Pisgah of that universal extent of forest, spreading out 
on ull sides but one, to many hundreds of miles; we 
had been eluted into hysteria when, after five months’ 
immurement in the deptha of forest wilds, we once 
again trod upon green graaé, and enjoyed open and 
unlimited views of our surroundings—luxuriant vales, 
varying hill-forms on all sides, rolling plains over 
which the long spring grass seemed to race and leap in 
ee before the cooling gale; we had admired the 
woud sweep und the silvered face of Lake Albert, and 
enjoyed a period of intense rejoicing when we knew we 
had veached, after infinite trials, the bourne and limit of 
our journeyings ; but the desire and involuntary act of 
ip were never provoked, nor the emotions stirred 
so deeply, us when we suddenly looked up and beheld 
the skyey crests and snowy breasts of Ruwenzori up- 
lifted into an inaccessible altitude, so like what our 
conceptions might be of a celestial castle, with dominat- 
in battlement, and leagues upon leagues of unsealeable 
Is. 


1989, 
June, 


Roweosort, 


1880. 
Sone 19. 
Karimi, 


884 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


CHAPTER XXXL. 
RUWENZORI AND LAKE ALBERT EDWARD, 


Importance of mnps in hooks of travele—'The time spent over my mapa 

tivo dry le of u lake discovered moat Karima ; ta computed sage 
Yowons‘aequired in, thin vonderfal regonWhat wo learn by 
olnervation froin the Semliki valley to the busin of the twin lakee— 
‘Extonaive plain between Kusesai and Katwo—The Zoribas of 
euphorbia of Wasouor—The raid of the Waganda made oighteen 

‘ago—The gris und water on tho wide expanses of futs—The 

Tet view aot southern face of Ruwensori—The town of Katwé-— 
‘Dho Atbort Ralwant Nyunai—Analysis of the brine obtained from 
‘he Salt Lake at Katwé~ Surroundings of the Salt Lake—The blood 
Ainta of ite waters—The larger Bult Lake of Kutwé, somectinios enlled. 
Lake of 3 The great repute of tho Katwé salt—The Lakists 
of tho Albert Edwand: Bevwa, on our bebalf, sakes friends with the 
Bntivs—Knkuri ppc with somo Wasongom chiefs Bsploration 
fof the lange Katwé luke— Kajytre'n wttlemont—Katw6 Buy—A black 
foopard-—-The native huis at Mukungo--Wo round on asm of the 
luke, called Beatrics Gulf, and halt at Muhokya—Ambuseade by 
some of tho Wara-Sara near the Rukoki: we put them to Hlight— 
And capture a Minusua wonta—Captain Neleon and ten follow 1 
the rearguard of Kukare—Halt wt Burnti: our Wakonja 
‘Wiwongora friends leave us —Sicknews amongst. ux through tad 
wator—Dho Nnongi river crossed —Capture of « Warw-Suro—Une8s 
and doath among the Beyptiaun and blacks—Onr lust engagement 
with the WariSnr at Kavandaré pass—Dulemo-Knigi placos his 
conotry at ove dixposal—Tho Pasha musterroll—Myvelé and others 
tire amitten down with fever at Katari Settlement—The auuth wdeok 
Lake Albort Edward und rivers feeding the Lake—Our frst and Inst 
view, also calour of the Lako—What wo might have seon if the day 
had boon eloarer. 











Crrries are in the habit of omitting almost all mention 
of maps when attached to books of travel, This is not 
quite fair. Mine have cost me more labour than the 
note-taking, literary work, sketchin, photographing 
combined, In the aggregate, the winding of the three 
chronometers daily for nenrly three years, the 800 sets 
of observations, the calculation of all these observations, 
the mapping of the positions, tracing of rivers, and 
shading of mountain ranges, the number of compass- 














ABOUT MAP-MAKING. 880 


bearings taken, the boiling of the thermometers, the 199. 
records of the varying of the aneroids, the computing of 4 1 
heights, and the notes of temperature, all of which are Serial 
necessary for a good map, have cost me no leas than 780 

hours of honest work, which, say at six hours per day, 
would make 130 working days. If there were no maj 
SEaOPRTIOR books of this kind it would scarcely 

possible to comprehend what was described, and the 
narrative would become intolerably dry. I relegate the 
dryness to the maps, by which Lam relieved from tedious 
description, at the same time that they minister to my 
desire of being clear, and are beautiful, necessary, and 
interesting features of the book ; and I am oe con- 
vinced that with a glance at the profile map of Ruwen- 

zori, the Semliki Valley, and Lakes Albert Edward and 
Albert, the reader will’know more of the grand physical 
features of this region than he knew of the surroundings 

of Lake Michigan, 

As we descend from Karimi to the basin of the Albert 
Edward the first thing we become conscious of is 
that we are treading the dry bed of a lake. We do not, 
require a gifted geologist to tell ua that. Five feet of 
rise to the luke would incrense its extent five miles to the 
north and five miles to the south. Fifty feet of rise 
would restore the lake to its old time-honoured condition, 
when its waves rolled over the pebbled beach under the 
shadows of the forest near Mtsora, We find that we 
really needed to pay this visit to the shores of the Albert 
Kdwand to thoroughly understand the physical changes 
which have, within the last few hundred yéars, diminished 
the former spacious lake to its present circumscribed 
limits. We should be liable to censure and severe criticism 
if we attempted to fix a hard and fast date to the period 
when Lake Albert extended to the forest. of Awamba 
from the north, and Lake Albert Edward extended from 
the south over the plain of Makara to the southern 
of the forest. Bur it does not need « clever mathemati- 
cian to caleulate the number of years which have slteee 
since the Semliki channeled its bed deep enough to drain 
the Makara plain, It is easily computable. The nitrous, 


a IN DARKEST AFRICA. 

saline, and acrid properties deposited over the 

the receding Mabe nts not heen thoroughly pedeyles 
‘yet. The grass is nutritious enough for the hardy cattle, 
the dark euphorbia, the acacia, and thorn-buah find 
along the edges of the plain a litde thin humua of 
decayed grass ; but nine-tenths of it is grassy plain, and 
the fropie forest of Awambu cannot advance its borders. 
‘The case is the sume on the southern plain of the Albert. 
Woe find there a stretch of plain twenty miles long 
devoted to poor grass, fatal to cattle; then we find eight 
miles crossed with « thin forest of parachute wcacias, 
with here and there an eaphorbia, and then we are in 
the old, old forest. 

At every Iciaure hour my mind reverted to the lessons 
which I was acquiring in this wonderful region. Time: 
was when Rawenzori did not exist. Tt was grassy up- 
land, extending from Unyoro to the Balegya plateau, 
Then came the upheaval at a remote period ; Ruwenzori 
‘was raised to the clonds, and a yawning abyss 250 miles 
long and thirty miles broad lay SW. and NE. The 
tropic mins fell for ayes; they filled the abyss to over- 
flowing with water, and in time it found an outlet thi ch 
what ia known under the modern name of Equatoria, 
‘The outflowing water washed the earth away along its 
course, down to the bed-rock, and for countless ages, 
through every second of time, it hax been scouring it 
away, atom by atom, to form Lower Egypt and fill the 
Mediterranean, and in the meantime the Satta of the 
abyss has been silting up with the sediment and débris 
of Ruwenzori, with the remains of uncountable genera 
tions of fish, with unnumbered centuries of dend vegeta- 
tion, until now, with the wearing away of the dykes of 
vock and reefs in the course of the White Nile, two lakes 
have been formed ; and other dykes of rock apy 
between the lakes, first as clusters of islets, then covered 
with gs; finally, they caught the soil brought down 
by glaciers, moraines have connected rock to rock, and 
have formed a valley marvellous in its growth of tropic 
forest, and on each side of this forest there ee 
undergoing the slow process of erystalline transforma~ 





——i 





THE SEMLIRE RIVER, ant 


tion, and on their luke borders you see yet an inter- 
mediate stage in the daily increasing mud, and animal 
and vegetable life add to the height of it, and 
sently it will be firm dry ground. Now aip u punting. 
pole into the shallows at the south end of Lake Albert, 
and the pole drops into five feet of ooze. Tt is the sedi- 
ment borne down from the slopes of Ruwenzori hy the 
tributaries into the Semliki, and thence by the Semliki 
into the still waters of the lake. And if we sound the 
depths ot Lake Albert Kdward, the pole drops through 
four or five feet of grey mud, to whieh are attached 
thousands of mica flakes and comminuted scales and 
pulverized bones of fish, which emit an overpowering 
stench. And atom by atom the bed-reck between the 
forest of Awamba and the Lake Albert Edward is being 
eroded and scoured away, until, by-wnd-hy, the lake 
will have become dry land, nnd through the centre of it 
will meander the Semliki, having gathered the tributaries 
from Ruwenzori, the Ankori, and Ruanda uplands, to 
itself; and in the course of time, when the nitrous and 
acrid properties have been well scoured off the plain, and 
the humus has thickened, the forest of Awamba will 
advance by degrees, and its trees will exude oil and 
gam, and fees goodly fruit for the uses of man. ‘That 
ia, in brief, what we learn by observation from the 
Semliki Valley and the busin of the twin lakes, and what 
will be confirmed during our journey over the tructs of 
lako-bed between Rusessé and Unyampaka, 

Between Rusessé and Katwé is an extensive plain, 
dipping down in a succession of low terraces to the 
Nyama-gazani River, and covered with pasture grass. 
‘This terraced plain is remarkuble for its growth of 
euphorbia, which have been planted by generations 
of Wasongora to form zeribas to protect their herds 
from beasts of prey and for defence against the 
archers and spearmen of predatory tribes, and which 
thickly dot the plains everywhere. Many of these 
cuphorbia, that stood in circles round the clustered huts, 
wore venerable patriarchs, quite five centuries old; 
hence we wsume that the Wasongora have been estab- 

Vol. I. go 


a, 
Jone 18. 
Karli. 


witnessed the return of the raiders from Wasongora, and 


eaw the many thousands of cattle which they had | ‘ 

‘The wide expanses of flata, white with r 
natron, teeming with hot springs and muddy 
turned out to be pure exaggerations of an it 
boy, and naan all the horrors expected have we 
wean exept perhaps a dreary monotony of level apd 
uniformity of surface features, grass fallen into the 
sere through drought, and tufts of rigid cuphorbia, so 
chumeteristic af poor soil. The silence of the plain is 
due to the wholesale expatriation of the tribe; thirst, 
because, as we near the Lake borders, the tributaries 

far a sickness, from the habit of people 
drinking the stagnant liquid found in pits 
‘he grass he plain grieved us sorely while 

travelling through it, The stalks grew to the beighe 
of three feet, and ite spice pierced through: 
thickest clothing, and clung to every gement as We 
passed by, and became very irritating and troublesome, — 

‘The two best views obtained of Ruwenzori have been 
those obtained from Karimi, up a long, nacrow valley, 











A LAST VIRW OF RUWENZORI, Baa 


and from the plain near the Nyama-gazani River, The 
lust was the farewell view, the great mountain having 
suddenly east ita cloudy garments aside to gratify us 
once more. In rank above rank the mountainous rid, 
rose until they culminated-in Ruwenzori. From 
south it looks like a range of about thirty miles in 
length, with as many blunt-topped peaks, separated from 
euch other by deep hollows. Up to this time we had 
cutimated the height as about 17,000 feet, but the 
revelation of the southern face, shrouded with far- 
descending fields of deep and pure snow, exalted it 
1,500 feet higher in the general opinion. I seized this 
opportunity to Sia eae the scene, that other eyes 
might view the most charneteristic image of Ruwenzori. 
Here and there may be seen, as in the pencil sketches, 
the dark patches, showing the more precipitous portions 
of the sh which are too ateep for the accumulation of 
snow, ¢ greater exhibition of snow on the southern 
face is due to the lesser height of the intervening 
ridges, which on the north side shut ont from view the 
snowy Tange, 

‘A few miles beyond the Nyama-guzani River, which 
is forty feet wide and a foot deep, clear as crystal and 
beautifully cool, we entered the town of Katwé, the 
headquarters of Rukara, the commanding chief of the 
Wara-Sura. He and hia t had Jeft the town the 
night before, and evidently in such haste that he was 
unable to transport the grain away, 

‘The town of Katwé must have contained a large 
population, probably 2,000, As the surrounding country 
was only adapted for the rearing of cattle, the popu- 
lation was supported by the sale of the salt of the two 
salt lakes near it, It was quite a congeries of zeribas 
of euphorbia, connected one with another by mazv lanes 
of cane hedges and inclosures, 

It is situated ona narrow grassy ridge between the 
walt luke of Katwé und a spacious bay of the Albert 
Rdward Nyanza. Tn len; the ridge is about two 
miles, and in breadth halt a mile from the shore of one 
lake to the other, 


aKa, 
Sane 10 
Tomes, 


BEN 30) tet tof the ridge 
. , the crest 
Kawa, 5,00: 


MO IN DARKEST AFRICA, 


ili int the Albert Edward N) is 
rer of Katwé is 


8,461 feet, and the Salt Lake 19 feet above the seu. 
So that the summit of the ridge was 154 fect above 
the Salt Lake and 112 feet higher than the Albert 
Edward Lake, and the difference of level between the 
two lakes was 42 feet. The town is situated in 
0° 8 15" south of the Equator, 

After sveing to the distribution of corn, I proceeded 
across the ridge, and descending a stiff slope, almost 
cliffy in its upper part, after 154 feet of a descent, came 
to the dark sandy shore of the Salt Lake of Katwé, at 
a place where there were piles of sult-cakes lying about. 

¢ tempernture of the water was 78°4° Fahrenheit ; a 
narrow thread of sulphurous water indicated 84°. Its 
flavour waa that of very strong brine,* Where the sand 


* T vont n bottle fall of this brine to the Laboratoim Khesdivial in 
Cairo to bo analysed by the Governmout chemists, and the following 
roport was mado >— 


Lawonatome KuKDIVEAt, 
Lo Cairo, 26h Mare, 1890, 
‘The couposition of this water is as follows: 


Potwh,KO. . 2 1. 
Beda, 


Chlorine » } Ot 
Bulphuretted hydrogen se, 
Lime nd magnesia”. 5 


Water; 


Deduet oxygon equivalent to ehforine 





Caleulatizg the basen to the oxides, the composition ia 


Sodium chloride, 18 67 
‘Sodium wulphato > 5 
Sodium carbonate . : . . . 272 
Potwsium cortonate | ae Esa 
Potassium wulphymte  . . . “08 
Bilica , * * . . . . “OL 
Litne aid magnesia BoD tena 
Water . . » OTT 

99-71 


THE SALT LAKES OF KATWK BAL 


had been seooped out into hollow beds, and the water of 
the lake had n permitted to flow in, evay 


poration hnd 
left a bed of crystal salt of rocky hardness, compacted *™+ 


and cemented popatie like coarse quartz, The appear- 
ance of these beds at a distance was like frozen pools 
When not disturbed by the sult-gatherers, the shore ix 
vinged around with Ukindu palms, scrubby bush, reed 

cane, euphorbia, aloctic plaints; and at Mkiyo, a cima 


‘Tho differvace betwoon the total found and 100 is probably accounted 
for by eal quanti of organic ma 
density ix 12703; using this figure, tho rosults, as expremed in 
geal 
Sod 


*ewbomuto 5 LL 





‘Total malts perlite. - 838-00 grains, 

Whon received the sample had an odour of snlphnrotted 
; ample hed an culphurettdlydrogen, dap 
fon, ‘he nani of the tees io0 eoall ts Sal OF a 


wale, 

Whe water, ccusicing ent dom of w pearty mvoraed sefation, b & 
very remarkable ope, aod @ natural water of this composition ts a 
eh met with, The mee of aulphides ix due to the ction of 
reducing organiamas on. ‘tho bottle in "hich tha te 
wax wax quite fall, and pods aad for several monthn 


Parry, 
iE; Droor Rcumoxn,f £6 Chin 


“Snow Hill Buildings, London, B.C, 
Tat May, 


iM, SEAN Li 
“tho following is tho rosult of tho quantitative analysis of tho 
natural crystalline salt you xubunitted to me:— raaR 


e 


BaRee5E) 


farde 





| 


Se 


‘Lose oxygen equivalent to chlorine 


5 


(it, 
June 1 





ue IN DARKEST AFRICA, 





amy village inhabited by salt-workers, there is a amall grove 
fwe i? of bananas, and a few fields of Indian corn and Elensine 


Kati. 


coracana, Thus, though the lake hus a singularly dead 
and lonely uppearance, the narrow belt of verdure below 
the cliffy walls which encompass it, is a relief. Tmmedi- 
ately behind this greenness of plants and bush, the 
precipitous slopes rise in a series of horizontal beds of 

‘y compacted deposit, whitened at various places by 
thin inerustations of salt. There are also chalky-looking: 








{THE LITTLE SALT LAKE AF KATW 


patches here and there, one of which, on being examined, 
proved to be of stulagmite. In one of these I found a 


“It is quite impossiblo to eay with certainty how the base and 
Acids are combined, but, calenlated in the onder of their mutual aflnities, 
the following: bs the arrangement into which they would natarally fall :— 

Wwe ont, 
Potassium sulphate 
Sodinm sulphate 
‘Sodium earbonate 
Sodium chloride 
Oxide of iron 
Wator 





“Trusting this may bo of morviee to you, 
* Lranmain youre evor truly, 
m 8, Watutoomtn.” 

“To H. M. Stanley, Esq.” 


THE SALT LAKES OF KATWE 348 


large tusk of ivory, bones of small animals, teeth, and 184%, 
shells of about the size of cockles. There were several ‘vet 
of these stalagmite beds around the lake, 

One remarkable peculiarity of the lake was the blood 
tints of its water, or of some iste in it, On looking 
into the water I saw that this deposit Hoated, like con- 
vealed blood, on and below the surface. A man at my 
request stepped in, and at random ; the water was up to: 
his knees, and bending down soon brought up a solid 
cake of coarse-grained crystallised salt, and underneath 
it was a blood-red tinge. This reddish viscous 
gives the lake, when looked at from the erest of Katwé 
ridge, purple appearance, as though # erimson dye had 
heen mixed with it, 

Hundreds of dead butterflies of various colours strewed 
the beach. There was not a fish seen in its waters, 
thongh its border seems to be a favourite haunt for 
Uerons, storks, pelican, egrets, 

The larger Salt Lake of Katwé, sometimes called Lake 
of Mkiyo, from the village of that name, is about three 

iles long, and ranges from half to three-quarters of w 
mile in width, and about three feet deep. ‘The smaller 
lake is in a round grassy basin about two miles east, 
and is @ round shallow pool half-a-mile across. 

Every one acquainted with the above facts will at 
once perceive thit these salt basins are portions of the 
original Jake occupying sunken hollows, which were left 
isolated by the receasion of the waters of the Albert, 
Edward Lake, and that evaporation has reduced the 
former sweet waters into this strong brine. 

Salt is a valuable article, eagerly sought after by the 
tribes round about. The reputation of this deposit had 
veached Kavalli, where I firat heard of the greater Salt 
Lake aa“ Katto.” Flotillas of canoes come from Makara, 
Ukonju, ayampaka, Ankori and Ruanda, loaded with 
grain, to barter for this article. Caravans arrive from 
eastern Ukonju, north Usongora, Toro and Uhaiyuna, to 
trade millet, bark eloth, beans, poas, tnllabun or elousine, 
sesame, iron tools, weapons, &e., for it, The islanders 
of Lake Albert Edward freight their little vessels with 





tak IN DARKEST APKICS. 


i, the commodity, and with dried fish make voyages to the 

jw western and southern shores, and find it table to 

Kaw carry on this exchange of produce, ‘The of 

Katwé town, which commands the lakes, ts a cause of 

i jealousy. ‘The Wasongora owned it, formerly, 

then Antari of Ankori. Kakuri, the island chief, became 

heir to it, when finally Kabba Rega heard of the rich 
deposits, and despatched Rukara to oceupy the town. 

Our march into Ukonju had instantly caused the Warne 
Sora to evacuate the plain of Makara, and our approach 
to Katwé had caused a speedy flight of Rukara and his 
army of musketeers and spearmen, Wakonju, to the 
number of 150 men in our camp, and Wusongora were 
joining, and supplying us with information gratuitously. 

In the afternoon of the first day's arrival at Katwé 
we saw a flotilla of canoes approaching from an island 
distant wbout three miles from the shore. ‘The crews 
wore cautious enough to keep just within hail. We 
were told that they had been sent by Kakuri to ascertain 
what strangers were those who had frightened Rukara 
and his Wara-Sura from the lund, for they had done good 
service to Kakuri and “all the world” by their acts. 
We replied in a suitable manner, but they’ professed to 
disbelieve us. They finally said that if we “ burned the 
town of Katweé they would accept it as a proof that we 
were not Wara-Sum.” Accordingly, the villages near 
shore were fired, and the crews cheered the act loudly. 

The speaker said “ L believe you to be of the Wan 
vingi now. Sleep in peace, and to-morrow Kakuri shall 
come with gifts to give you welcome.” 

Then Beywa, chief of our Wakonju, stood on a canoe 
which was in the lake and asked, “ Ah, you children of 
Kakuri, the great chief of the sea, do you remember 
Kwaru-Kwanzi, who lent Kakuri’s sons the spears to de~ 
fend the land from the Wara-Sura robbe Pot Kwarae 
Kwanzi, a true son of the Wanyavingi, is here again, 
Rejoice, my friends, Rukara and his thieves have Hed, 
and all the land will rise as one man to follow in pursuit 
of them.” 

The crews clapped hands, applauding, and half-w-dozen 






— 








THE LAKISTS OF ALBERT EDWARD. 45 


little drums were beaten. ‘Then the principal speaker ino. 
of the islanders said, “ Kakuri is a ae al has not Janel? 
had « tooth drawn yet, and he ia not going to have one “"* 
drawn by any Mrasura alive. We have eaught a dozen 
Wara Sum as they were flying from Makara becuse of 
these strangers. Kakuri will see that they die before 
‘the sun sets, and to-morrow he will see the chief of the 


aaa fae to fice, 
When ean ees paddled away, Bevwa was questioned 
us to saci ‘anyavingi. What were they? Were they 
a tril 

‘hen Bevwa looked hard at me and said— 

“Why do you ask? Do you not know that we 
believe you to be of the Wanyavingi? Who but the 
Wanyavingi and Wachwezi are of your colour!” 

“What, are they white people like us?” 

“They have no clothes like you, nor do they wear 
anything on their feet like you, but they ane tall 
men, with long noses and a pale colour, who came, aus 
heard from onr old men, from somewhere beyond 
Ruwenzori, and you came from that direction; therefore 
you must be of the Wanyavingi.” 

“ But where do they live {" 

“Ruanda, and Ruanda is a great country, stretching: 
round from ‘east of south to S8,W. Their spears are 
innumerable, and their bows stand higher than I The 
king of Usongora, Nyike, was an eas ‘There are 
some men in these parts whom Kabba Rega cannot 
conquer, and those are in Ruanda; even the King of 
U, ma not venture there.” “rth 

en Kakuri appeared next mor 6 brought us 
ifts, several fish, outs, bananas aah beans. Some 

‘asongora chiefs were with him, who offered to ae- 
company us, in the hope that we should fall in with 
some of the bands, aa we journeyed towards Toro and 
Uhaiyana, The island chief was'a ea fine man, 
but. not differing in complexion from the dark Wakonju ; 
while the Wasongora were as like in features to 
finest of the Somali types and Wa-galla as though they 


were of the same race, 


a. | 


IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


= 


aaa, 
tw noon, and sy them with salt to deposit on his 


Having found a cumbrous and heavy canoe, but 
somewhat large, on the 19th, it was manned with 
twelve men, and I set out toexplore. At about 11 A.M 
Thad got to a distance of eight miles, and halted in 
front of Kniyune's settlement, which consisted of eighty- 
one large huts, and was rich in gouts and sheep. Kaiyura 
i a Maongoru, who #0 far remained unconquered by the 
Wara-Sura. The craft that we were voyaging was too 
clumsy and lopsided to venture far out into the lake, for 
with the slightest breeze the water leaped in, but I way 
quite a mile from the shore during most of the trip, and 
the lead was cast every few minutes, but the deepest 
water [ obtained was fifteen feet, while it sank over 
three feet in a soft ooze About 400 yards from the 
shore a long sounding pole was used, and each time it 
dropped four feet into the ooze, which emitted a most 
horrible stench, like that of a sewer, when it came out, 

Tn the early part of the day the face of the Lake was 
as smooth as u mirror, of a grey-green colour. The shore 
was remarkable for the great number of buttertlies, and 
many floated dead on the surface of the water, 

‘There were two islands standing in the middle of 
Katwé Bay, and rising about 100 feet ubove the water. 
One of them was distinguished for a challky-coloured 
cliff. ‘They contained large settlements, ‘and were 
evidently well populated. 

On returning to Katwé T saw a great black leopard 
about 250 yarda off, just retreating as the Lake side, 
where he hud been slaking his thirst. He disappeared 





NATIVE ARCHITBCTURAL ART aT 
before we could paddle the unwieldy eraft nearer the — 196, 
aioe Jowe 10, 


‘The only advantage I derived from my day's a 
son sus Gh compos sarvey of in bey and Sng 
a view beyond the headland of Kaiyura into the chactle 
and formless void. ‘The haze was as thick asa fog, and 
nothing could he distinguished further than three miles. 

On the 20th of June the Expedition marched out from 
Katwé, and escorted by a large number of Wason, 
chiefs and herdsmen, and our Wakonju friends, filed to 
the eastward, along a path that skirted the greater Sult 
Lake. and dipped down into the grassy round basin of 
the lesser briny lake. Surmounting the ridge eastward 
of the basin, we descended into a great plain, which 
evidently hud but recently Leen covered with the waters 
of the Albert Edward, Pools still existed. and narrowed 
feoyuer af bwamp, until, after a march of eighteen and a 
half miles, we arrived at Mukungu, in Unyampaka, of 
‘Toro, Chief Kassessé, whose name was made familiar to 
ime in January 1876. 

Opposite the half-dozen zeribas of Mukungu was the 
Jong low island called Irangara, The narrow arm of the 
Lake, about 150 yards across, wound around it, and 
between the Islands of Katero, Kateribba, and four or 
five others east of Trangara, with great floating maases 
of pistia plants, Far acrosa through the mist over the 
islands loomed the highlands of Uhaivana, and to the 
south we had the faintest image of Kitaygwenda, Chief 
Ruigi, and I knew then that we stood west of the arm 
of the Lake we had called Beatrice Gulf. 

The cattle had been driven across into the Island of 
Irangura, everything of value had been deported away, 
and a monstrous herd had but lately left Mukungu 
for Buruli, urged to fast travel by the retreating Rukara 
and his army, ‘The huts of the chiefs showed that these 
people of -Iukungu were advanced in the arta of 
ornamental architecture. A house which the Pasha 
occupied was one of the most ornate [ had seen. 
The hut was twenty feet in height and about twenty-five 
feet in diameter, with a doorway brilliant in colouring 


1880, 
June 20, 


Mubungn 


—$_$ 


38 IN DARKEST AFRICA 


like a rude imitation of the stuceo work of bea 
plians, The doorway was ample—six feet high 
aed giz baste ide, veith ay Beate coed ee 
Plastered partitions divided the interiors into segments 
of circles, im which wer sunk triangles and diamond 
figures, lines of triangles surmounting lines of diamonds, 
the whole pointed in red and black. One division 
before the wide doorway wax intended us a hall of 
wodience-—-behind the gaily-decorated partition was the 
family bed-chamber; to the right were segments of the 
cirele devoted to the children. ; 
Every. zeriba, besides being protected by an impene- 





MECTION OF A MOOKK MEAN LARK ALTE SYANHA, 





trable hedge of thorn-bush, had withi reulur dyke of 
cow-dung, rising five fees high. great cireular 
heaps of refuse und dung were frequently met in 
Usongora, anc will remain for a century to indicate the 
sileof the settlements, when village and generation after 
generation have disappeared. 

‘The river-like arms of the Lake, now narrowing and 
broadening, «warmed with egrets, ducks, geese, ibis, 
heron, storks, pelicans, snipes, kingfishers, divers, and 
other water-birds. 

The next day we followed the track of Rukara and 
his army and droves, and made a westerly and 
then northerly course to round the prolonged arm of 





4 x= 


| 
| 





THE AMBUSCADE. aay 


the Lake called Beutrice Gulf. A fow ago it aso, 
must have spread to a great distance, The plain was 2 
perfectly flat, and long reaching, shallow, tongues of “**!* 
water projected far inland, which we had to cross, Ay we 
advanced north, the hills of Toro aj in view, 
and having upproached them we turned north-easterly, 
and after a march of eleven miles, halted at Muhokya, a 
small village, equidistant from the Lake and Mountain. 
The scouts in ranging around the outskirts, captured a 
deserter from Rukara’s army, who informed us that the 
Wara Sura were at Buruli. 

On the 22nd we continued our march, « plain, level as 
a billiard table, lay spread to our right, about forty feet 
below « terrace, over which we were travelling, and the 
south-eastern flank of Ruwenzori range lay to our left, 
projected into capes, terminated moxtly by conical hills, 
with spacious land bays, reaching far inland, between. 
We crossed these little streams and two considerable 
rivers, the Unyamwambi and Rukoki, the first bein, 
plentifully strewn with lange round cobblestones, smoot! 












and polished from the powerful rolling they had received 
by impetuous torrent. 
Arriving near the Rukoki, whose banks were hidden 


by a tall growth of reedy cane, the vanguard suddenly 
received a volley from “ large number of musketeers, 
hidden in the thick brake, The Wasongora and Wakonju 
were, unfortunately, in the van, leading the way, and 
these fell into a heap in the river, their sharp spears ws 
they frantically struggled in their fright, more dangerous 
to us than the concealed enemy, However, the loads 
wore dropped, and in a few minutes we had two full’ 
companies charging through the brake with admirable 
tneoncern, justin time to see the rearguard ofthe Warn 
Sum breaking out of their coverts. Some lively firing 
followed, but wars with natives require cavalry, for 
every person seams to be on the perpetual run, either 
advancing or in retreat, Some of the Wara-Sura fled 
south, some ran up the mountains to avoid the pellets of 
our rifles. After seeing them all in full flight, the com: 
panies returned, and we lifted our loads and resumed our 


Le: 


. | 


850 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


“ march to Buruli, hehe: extensive es ei banana 
plantations soon appeared in view, and promised a rare 
= ply of food. 

just before reaching the ambuscade we had passed a 
slaughtered goat, that had been laid acros# the path, 
around which had Iaeaiples a score or 40 of yellow 
tomato-like fruit, the product of a very common bush, 
We all knew that it implied we had better boware of 
vengeance, but the natives, confident in us, had not 
hesitated to udvince ; nevertheless the ambuseade wus a 
great shock to them. 

Tn the afternoon the Wara-Sura were pursued by 
scouts, and ascertained to be iv ing their scattered 
parties, and proceeding on an E.N.E. course across 
lain. The scouts, unable to contain themselves, sent a 
few bullets after them, lending an impulsion to their 
flight. Their baggage was thrown away; the sticks 
were seen being applied to their prisoners, until several, 
frantic with fear and pain, threw their loads away, and 
deserted to the arms of the scouts. Many articles were 
icked up of great use that were discarded by the 
Tagitiver and among the prisoners was an Mhuma 


woman, of very pleasing appearauce, who gave us much 
information respecting Rukara and his vast herds of 
cattle, 


Karly next morning Captain Nelson was despatched 
with one hundred rifles, and fifty Wakonju and 
Wiasongora spearmen to follow up the rear-guard of 
Rukara, and if possible overtake the enemy. He followed 
them for twelve miles, and perceiving no signs of them 
returned again to Buruli, which we reached well after 
sunset, after « most brilliant march, 

1 was told of two hot springs being some miles off, one 
being near a place called Iwanda, N. by B, from Buruli, 
the other, “hot enough to cook bananas,” N. E, near 
Luajimba. 

We halted two days at Buruli, as we had performed 
some splendid marching on the plains, The paths were 
good, broad, clear of thorns, stones, roots, red ants, and 
all obstructions. At the same time, when abundant food. 


ON THE TRAM, OF THE WARA-SURA. bon 


offered, it was unwise to the people. Before 188. 


leaving: this prosperous aatticnent Our Wakuajal ana ame 
Werouipel fant Seagal hohiet 2 


tanngl 


permission to retire. Each chief Ki 


sony 

and pee received our gifts, and departed to our regret, 
Bevwa and his Wakonju were now eighty-five miles 

distant from their homes, and their good ‘nature, und 

re willingness und unobtrusiveneas, had quite won our 
carts. 


A march of twelve miles took us on the 25th across a 
very flat plain, level as a bowling: , intersected by 
five streams, and broad tongues of swamp, until about 
half-way it heaved up in gentle undulations, alternated 
by brendths of grassy plain.” Thick forests of acacin 
crested these land swells, and on the edges of the aubsi- 
dent flats grew three ies of euphorl tout fan 
palms, a few borassus, and L’sindu ttle after 
noon we camped in a forest an hour's march from the 
Neongi River. 3 

It had evidently been often used as Seapine ‘ground by 
‘Wara-Sura bands and Toro caravans bound for the Salt 
Lakes, and as water was fur, the tired cooks used the 
water from some pits thut had been excavated by thirsty 
native travellers, This water created terrible sickness 
amongst ua. 

The next day we crossed the Nsongi, a river fifty feet 
wide and thirty inches deep, and immediately after 
we began to ascend to the uplands of Uhaiyana, 
which form, with Eastern Toro, actin and Ankori, 
the eastern wall of the basin of the Lake Albert 
Edward, We encamped near noon on a broad plaintike 
terrace at Kawandaré in Uhaiyana, 3,990 feet above the 
sea, and about 680 fect above the Lake, 

The Wara-Snra were on the alert, and commenced 
firing from the hill-tops, but as the advance rushed to 
the attack they decamped, leaving one stout prisoner in 
our hands, who was captured in the act of throwing a 
spear by one of the scouts who had crept behind him, 

On first reaching the terrace we See through 
Kakonya and its sperous fields of white millet, sesa- 
mum, sia and sweet potatoes. Karamulli, a most 











co IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


1880, important settlement lies E. by N. an hour's journey 
we. from Kakonya. 

Seawall “Soon after arriving in camp Yusuf Effendi, an 

an ofler, died ffom on ihe oe This, T 

was the sixth death among the Egyptians. They 

had Jed such a feurful life of debauchery nnd licence in 

their province that few of them had any stunina re- 

maining, and they broke down under what was only a 
moderate exercise to the Zanzibaria, 

‘The effects of the water drank from the pita the day 
before commenced to be manifested on reaching the 
camp—thatis, in twenty-four hours, Over thirty eases of 
ague had been developed among the Zanzibaris, two of 
the European officers were prostrated, and I myself felt 
approaching symptoms, ¢ Pasha’s followers were 

ling with sickness, and it was reported that several 
were missing besides Manyuema. 

On the 27th a halt was ordered. Lieutenant Stairs 
was sent back with his company to endeavour to r= 
cover some of the lost people. Some passed him on 
the road attempting to overtake the column, One 
woman belonging to one of the Pasha's followers was found 
speared through the body. He arrived in time to save 
a Manyuema from sharing the same fate, These utterly 
reckless people had acquired the art of evading the rear 
column bi throwing themselves into the grass and lying 
still until the officer and his party had passed. 

Altogether the sick cases had increased to 200. 
Egyptians, blacks of Zanxibar, Soudan, and Manyuema 
were moaning and sorrowing over their sufferings, ‘The 
Pasha, Dr. Parke, and Mr. Jephson had also succumbed 
to severe attacks, 

On the 28th, led by one of the Wara-Sura prisoners, 
we made a short march pust the range of Knvandaré 
The advance and main body of the column filed 
through the pass unmolested, but the rear guard was 
fiercely attacked, though the enemy turned to Hight when 
the repeating rifles began to respond in earnest, and this 
proved our last engagement with Kabba Rega’s rovers 


called Wara-Sura. 





MUSTER LIST OF THE PASHA'S FOLLOWERS. 353 


We reached Chamlirikwa the next day, having mean- 188, 

time descended to the level terrace at the foot of the 22 
enstern walls of the Albert Edward basin, and on July “gait 
Ist arrived at Kasunga-Nyanza in Eastern Unyampaka, 
a place known to us in January, 1876, when I sent a 
body of Waganda to search for canoes for the purpose of 
crossing the Lake then discovered, Bulemo-Ruigi, the 
King, having heard our praises sounded by the islanders 
of Kakuri, who had meanwhile crossed the Lake before 
us, ee messengers to place his country at our 
disposal with free privileges of eating whatever gardens, 
fields, or plantations offered, only asking that we would 
be enongh not to cut down banana stalks, to which 
snoderate request we willingly consented. 

‘The Pasha on this day sent me bis muater-roll for the 
beginning of the month, which was as follows :— 


M1 officers, honda of fumition, and clerks, 
‘00 married wornon wad conehbines. 
107 children. 
Pants, soldiers, ordorlies, and servants, 
D1 followers, 


655 

On the 3rd of July we entered Katari settlement, in 
Ankori,on the borders of the Lake, At the camp of 
the 28th of June symptoms of fever developed, and 
numbered me among those smitten down with the sick- 
ness, whieh raged like a pest through all ranks, regard- 
less of age, colour, or sex, and I remained till the 2nd 
of July as prostrated with it as any person, Having 
laid every one low, it then attacked Caphain Nelson, who 
now was the hardiest amongst ua Tt took its course of 
shivering, nausen, and high fever, irrespective of medi- 
cine, and after three or four days of grievous suffering, 
loft us dazed and bewildered, But though nearly every 

person bad suffered, not one fatal case had occurred, 
From the camp of the 28th, above which was visible 
Mt. Edwin Arnold, we skirted the base of the up= 
and two days later entered the country of 
Kitagwenda. By Unyampaka I, is intended the Lake 

vou. I, 28 





354. IN DARKEST AFRICA, 


shore of Kitagwenda. The entire distance thence to 
Katari in Ankori is an almost unbroken line of banana 

lantations skirting the shore of the Lake, and fields of 
Tadian corn, sugar-cane, eleusine, and holeus, which lie 
behind them inland, which are the properties of the 
owners of the half-dozen salt markets Noetin the coast. 
The mountainous upland looms parallel with the Lake 
with many a bold headland at the distance, varying 
from three to six miles. 

We have thus travelled along the north, the north-west, 
and eastern coasts of Lake Albert Edward. We have 
had abundant opportunities of hearing about the south 
and western sides, but we have illustrated our information 
on the carefully-prepared map accompanying these 
volumes. The south side of the Lake, much of which 
we have viewed from commanding heights such as 
Kiteté, is of the same character as the flat plains of 
Usongora, and extends between twenty and thirty miles 
to the base of the uplands of Mpororo and Usongora. 
Kakuri’s canoe-men have been frequent voyagers to the 
various ports belonging to Ruanda and to the western 
countries, and all around the Lake, and they inform me 
that the shores are very flat, more extensive to the south 
than even to the north, and more to the west than to 
the east. No rivers of any t importance feed the 
Albert Edward Lake, though there are several which are 
from twenty to fifty feet wide and two feet deep. The 
largest is said to be the Mpanga and the Nsongi. This 
being so, the most important river from the south cannot 
have a winding course of more than sixty miles, so that 
the farthest reach of the Albertine sources of the Nile 
cannot extend further than 1° 10! south latitude. 

Our first view, as well as the last, of Lake Albert 
Edward, was utterly unlike any view we ever had 
before of land or water of a new region. For all other 
virgin scenes were seen through a more or less clear 
atmosphere, and we saw the various effects of sunshine, 
and were delighted with the charms which distance 
lends. On this, however, we gazed through fluffy, 
slightly waving strata of vapours of unknown depth, 


A SUGGESTION OF CHAOS. 865 


and through this thick opnque veil the lake appeared 1a, 
like dusty quicksilver, or a sheet of Iustreless silver, 2¥7% 
hounded ‘by vague shadowy outlines of a tawny-faced 
lund. It was most unsatisfying in every way. We 

could neither define distance, form, or figure, estimate 
height of land-crests above the water, or depth of 
luke ; we could ascribe no just limit to the extent of 

the expanse, nor venture to say whether it was an 
inland ocean or a shallow pond. ‘The haze, or rather 
cloud, hung over it like » grey pall. We sighed for 

rain to clear the atmosphere, and the rain fell; but, 
instead of thickened haze, there came a fog as dark as 

that which distracts London on a November day. 

The natural colour of the luke is of a light sen-green 
colour, but at a short distance from the shore it is con- 
verted by the unfriendly mist into that of pallid Eres 
or sackeloth, There is neither sunshine nor sparkle, 
but a dead pacity, struggling through a measureless 
depth of mist. If we attempted to peer under or 
through it, to get a peep at the ab, water, We 
were struck with the suggestion of chaos at the sight of 
the pallid surface, bi ing under the trembling and 
seething atmosphere. It realised perfectly the descrip- 
tion that “in the beginning the earth was without form 
and void, and darkness was upon the face of the deep.” 
This idea was strengthened when we looked up to 
examine the composition of this vaporous mist, and to 
ascertain whether we might call it haze, mist, or fos 
‘The eyes were fascinated with the clouds of fantaatio 
and formless phantasms, the eerie figures, flakes, films, 
globules, and frayed or wormlike threads, swimming 
and floating and drifting in such numberless multitudes 
that one fancied he could catch a handful, In the 
delirium of fovers T have seen auch shapes, like wriggling 
animaleule, shifting their forma with the rapidity of 
thought, and swiftly evolving into strange amorphous 
figures before the dazed senses. More generally, and 
speaking plainly, the atmosphere seemed crowded with 
shadowy, elongated organisms, the most frequent bearing 
a rough resemblance to squirming tadpoles While look~ 














250 JN DARKEST AFRICA. 


. ing at the dim i of an island about three miles from: 
* the shore, it was that the image deepened, or 


or floated upward; and following this with a fixed 
sight, I could see a vibration of it as clearly as of w 
stream of sunbeams, From the crest of a grassy ridge 
and the crown of « tall bill, and the sad grey beach, L 
tried to resolve what was imaged but three miles away, 
and to ascertain whether it was tawny land, or grey 
water, or ashen sky, but all in vain. 1 needed but to 
hear the distant strains of a dirge to enuse me tu 
imagine that one of Kakuri’s canoes out yonder on the 
windless lake was n fancreal burge, slowly gliding with 
its freight of dead explorers to the gloomy poets 
from whence never an explorer returned. 

And oh! what might have been seen had we but 
known one of those marvellously clear days, with the 
deep purified azure und that dazzling transparency of 
‘ether so common to New York! We might have set 
some picture before the world from these never-known 
Jonds as never painter painted. We might have been 
able to show the lake, with its tender blue colour, here 
broadening nobly, there enfolding with its sparkling 
white urms clusters of tropic isles, or projecting long 
silvery tongues of blazing “ater into the spacious 
meadowy flats, curving everywhere in rounded buys, or 
extending along flowing shore-lines, under the shadows 
of impending place walls, and flotillas of canoes 
gliding over its bright hosom to give it life, and broad 
green bunds of marsh grasses, palms, plantains, waving 
crops of sugar-cano, and umbrageous globes of  foliay 
to give beauty to its borders. And from point to point 
round about the compass we could have shown the 
irregularly circular line of lofty uplands, their proud 
hill bosses rising high into the clear air, and their 
mountainous promontories, with their domed crowns 
rojected fur into the basin, or receding into deep folds 
fafiensloaing fair -vallayei and the fiver threaded 
streams sheoting in urrowy flights down the eliffy 


_ ‘lll 


THE SOURCE OF THE ALBERTINE NILE 807 


steeps ; broad bands of vivid green griss, and spaces of 1480, 
decp green forest, alternating with frowning grey or (M7 
white precipices, and far northward the horizon bounded 
hy the Alps of Ruwengori, a league in height above the 
lake. Lee in their ee white garments us ely 
entranein; jieturesque in their congregation 
and ba mitt of Bases satellites ranged pce 
against the crystalline sky. 

But alae! alas! In vain we turned onr yearning 
eyes and longing looks in their direction. ‘The Moun- 
tains of the Moon lay ever slumbering in their cloudy 
tents, and the lake which gave birth to the Albertine 
Nile remained ever brooding under the impenetrable 
and loveless mist. 





IN DARKESY AFRICA 


CHAPTER XXXII, 


THROUGH ANKORI TO THE ALEXANDRA NILE 


ie ponlan to the see, id Tease, through Ankori, to Randa, and 
‘to Tanganika—We decido on the Ankori routo~Wo halt at 
EINAG, and ee weeomod inthe nate of King Autos EN 
‘Masakura and his won 


up the vale eben ‘Jeni tod ‘Deuty’ Range tte: Stee 
ran ang ih Tnhabitants—Tho Rwist River crowod— Pree 
from the king mother—The feelings of th nacivee provoked hy 
aie practices of some of my men—An incident lasing 
the difforent views mon take of things—Malt at the 
Thums Hatract frota my diary—We continu one vary 
Ty Bre Wehaae 10 tho the i ea oer 
ny Prince Uehiuku' a rough the te Sas 
od with Feo Vhs —Ew Pe 
Pt feooddopotation tom. the "Wagandn, Cheitane. my 
croseexamination of them extract from my journal—My answer to 
to Cheintians—We enter the valley of Mavota=-And coro in aight 
of tho Alexandra Valley—The Alexandra Nie. 





ano. ON the evening of July 3rd the officers of the Expedi- 
Jer tion were summoned to my friend to assist me in 


Ankorl, 


the decision as to which of the following routes we 
should adopt for our seaward march, They were told 
thus :— 

entlemen,—We are met to decide which route we 
shull choose to travel to reach the sea. You deserve to 
have a voice in the decision. I will give you impartially 
what may be said for or against each, 

“TL, As to the route vid Uganda along my old road to 
the mouth of the Katonga. If, as in the old days, the 
king was friendly, I could take the Expedition to 
on the Victoria Luke, ond I would find means to 











— 








THE THREE BODTES 70 THE SEA. 850 


borrow his canoes to transport us to Kayironde, whence, 1839, 
after preparing live stock and grain, we could start for 70% 
Kikuyu, and thence to Mombasa. But Mwanga is now Att 
Mtes ; the murderer of Bishop Hannington ean be no 
friend of ours. If we proceeded to Ugunda, we should 

have two alternatives before us; to fight, or give up 

our arms, If we did either we should only have under- 

gone all this troublo to useleasly sacrifice those whom 

we have in our char; 

“IL As to the route southerly direct through Ankori. 
In 1876 Antari, the Lae paid tribute to the King of 
Uganda, He pays it still, no doubt, Scores of Waganda 
must be at the capital. They are clever enough to hope 
‘isting rbaldonla avons of Qdmenpe ievGitys wad 
get a few hundred rifles and ammunition for him. 
What they may not be able to effect by frand they may 
attempt to do by fore, Long before we reached the 
Alexandra Nile, a force of Wagunda and Wanyankori 
would have arrested our flight, and a decisive straggle 
would take place. Antari himself is well able to: 
prevent us marching through his territory, for by my 
estimate he must be able to muster 200,000 in 
ease of an invasion, 10,000 spears would quite 
enough to oo little force, What he will do no 
one knows. With fifty Zanzibaris I could find am 
way through the wilderness. With 600 me peo 
as the Pasha has with him attached to us the wilderness 
is impossible, We must, therefore, he prepared for the 
worst, 

“ILL The two first routes lead up those plateau wally 
that you see close by, The third and Inst skirts for a 
day's march the base, and then proceeds south to Ruanda, 
and through it to Usigé and the Tanganika, whence 
ve could send messengers to Ujiji, or to Kavala, to 
bring canoes or boats to us. We could then cod 
homeward from Ujiji vid Unyanyemhé to Zanzibar, or 
to the south end of the Lake Tanganika, and thence to 
Nyassa, and ao down the Shire and Zambezi to Quili- 
mine. But long before we could reach the Tanganika 
every art that we know will have been well tested. I 


880 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


is. know that it is almost a proverb with the Arab that it is 


easier to get into Ri than to get out of it, An 


‘er Arab caravan went, thero about eighteen years ago, 


and 
never returned. Mohammed, iy et of Tippu-Tib, 
has tried to trate Ruanda with 600 failed, 
Ido not think there is foree enough in Ruanda to st 
us, and if there were no other road, of course there 
be no debating as to what we should do, but go straight: 
ahead, It is an interesting country, and I should 
to see its interesting king and ante But it is # long 


journey. 

“Thus you have the shortest road vid Lake Victoria 
and Kavirondo, but with the Waganda, with whom we 
must reckon, You have the next shortest road, wit 
Ankori and en but with Waganda and Ane 
nie eaabibea ‘ou have the longest route through 

nanda.” 

After an animated discussion it was concluded: 
to refer it to me, upon which the Ankori route was 
elected. 

Accordingly instructions were issued to prepare five 
days’ provisions, that from the free provisions obtained: 
from the Bir we might be well into Ankori before 
beginning the distribution of beads and cloth to about 
1000 people, und ulso permission to assist themselves 
gratuitously was withdrawn, and the eriers were sent 
through the camp geome in the several lan) 
that any person detected rol ing Hantations, or con~ 
vieted of looting villages, would be made a public 
exumple. 

On the morning of the 4th we turned our backs to 
the Albert Edward Nyanza, and followed a road leading: 
east of south over the plain, In ahout an hour the 
level flat assumed a rolling character freely sprinkled 
over with bush clamps and a few trees, An hour's x= 
perience of this kind brought us to the base of the first: 
ine of hills, thence up one ascent after another until noon, 
when we halted at Kitété, having guined a thousand 
feet of altitude. We were itera Ein: and welcomed 
in the name of the King Antari, Messengers had 


— 


A WELCOME IY ANKORI. B6L 


arrived almost simultaneously from Masakuma, the 
Governor of the Lake Province of Aukori, that we should 
be received with all hospitality and honour, and brought 
by degrees to him. Consequently, auch is the power of 
emissaries from authority, the villagers were ordered ont, 
of their houses with cries of “Room for the guests of 
Antari! Room for the friends of Masukuma! Ha, 
villains, don't yon hear? Out with you, bag and 
baggage!" and so forth, the messengers every now 
and then taking sly glances at us to note if we admired 

















A VILLAGE 1 ANKOR. 





the style of the thing. We had not been long 
Ankori before we grasped the situation thoroughly. 
Ankori was the king’s property. ‘The people we should 
have to deal with were only the governors, culled 
Wakungu, and the king, his mother, brothers, sisters, 
uncles, aunts, &e, Ankori was a copy of Uganda, 

From Kitété « considerable portion of the south-east 
extremity of Lake Albert Edward appeared in view. 
We were a thousand feet above it. The sun shone 
strongly, and for once we obtained about a ten-mile view 





1840, 
July 
Kiet 


ie 


— | 


362 IN DARKEST AFRICA, 


iso. through the mist. From 3124° to 324° magnetic, the 

ere flats below were 
penetrated — with: 

Jong-reaching in- 

lets of the lake, 

surrounding mum- 
hers of little low 
islets, To 178° 
magnetic roe 

Neinda Mountain, 

2500 feet above 

the Jake; and be- 

hind, wt the (dies dis- 
tance of 

miles, rose ea 

range of Kinya- 

magara; and on 
the eastern side 
of a deep valley 
separating it from 
the uplands of 

Ankori rose the 

western fice, pre= 

tous and Lf 
the frowning wal 
of the nny 
range, 

Our course om 
was 
ascent, 

to Kib- 

at the foot 
of the Denny 
mange, Nein 

Mountain 

bearing N 

Opposite 

village was Kinya- 

magara mountain. 

In the triangular 


Binet. 














RAPEDITION CLINNING THE 
oF AS 





1 ONIGNEN SOLEMN 











AN OVATION IN: ANRORT Bos 
valley between these mountains the first herds of the 


Wanyaukori were discover 

We travelled in very close and compact order on 
the 7th up the pass aor the ranges of Kinya- 
magara and Denny, and having gained the altitude of 
6160 feet, the summit of Kinya-magara, and felt une 
commonly chilled by the cold winds, we descended 800 
feet down the eastern slope of the range to the chief 
village of Masakuma, the Governor of the Lake 
Province of Ankori. 

We found Masakuma to be a genial old fellow. With 
all our doings with the Wara-Sura he was well wequainted, 
and at a great and ceremonions meeting in the afternoon 
he insisted that we should tell our story, that his aube 
chiefs and elders might hear how the Wanyoro were 
beaten at Mbogu, Utuku, Awamba, Ukonju, Usongorn, 
and were clean awept from Toro. “There,” said. he, 
“that is the way the thieves of Unyoroshould be driven 
from all the lands which they have plundered. Ab, if 
we had only known what brave work was being done 
we should have gone as far as Mruli with you,” which 
sentiment was loudly applauded, 

The women of the chief then came out dressed with 
bead-worked caps and bead tassels, and a thick roll of 
necklaces and broud }renst-ornuments of neat bead-work, 
and paid us the visit of ceremony. We hud to undergo 
many fine compliments for the good work wo had accom- 
plished, and they begged us to accept their expressions 
of gratitude, *Ankori is your own country in future. 
No subject of Antari will refuse the right hand of fellow- 
ship, for you proved yourselves to be true Wanya- 
vingi. 

‘Then the elders, grey-haired, feeble men, smitten with 
game satan deta kl alae oats acid eet 
two hands spread out, palm upward, “We greet you 
gladly. We see to-day, for the first time, what our 
fathers never saw, the real Wachwezi, and the trae 
Wanyavingi. Look on them, oh people; they are those 
who mnde Kabba Regn run. These are they of whom 
we heard that the Wara-Sura at the sight of them showed. 





ua, 
July 3. 
Kibwign, 


366 IN DARKEST AFRICA, 
their and fled as though they had to their 
Pa artes as thoug! y wings 


Kiwies. Little did we anticipate such a reception as this from 
Aukori when we debated, on the evening of July 8rd, 
what road we should take, And though the terms Wach- 
weri and Wanyavingi did not seem to Neerehoeay 


bouring settlements also came, and the story of the chase 
of the Wara-Sura, and the deliverance of the Salt Lakes 
were retold them by Musakuma, and we were publicly 
thanked again for our services, Indeed, considering how 
many tribes were affected by our interference, we were 
not Surprised wt the general joy manifested. The story 
was the “open sesame” to the riveted attention and 
affection of the Wanyankori, 

Near sunset the rnuners despatched to the capital re- 
appeared with a message from the king's mother, which, 

ough diplomatic, was well understood by us.” It ran 
as follows :-— 

“ Masakuma will furnish you with guides to show you 
the road to Karazwé. Food will be given you at eves 
camp wo long as you are in Ankori. Goats and alia 
will be freely given to you. ‘Travel in pence, The king's 
mother is ilf now, but she hopes she will be well enough 
to recive you wen you gain revisit the land. | For 
from today the lund is yours, and all that is in it. 
Anuui, the king, is absent on a war, wd as the king's 
mother is ill and confined to her bed, there is none 
worthy to receive you,” 

Tt appeared that at the capital our prowess and 
numbers had been exigy arated from the reports of 
Bevwa and Kakuri; our long column in single file was 
also imposing. ‘The terrible Maxim machine gun also 
contributed a moral influence, and the fact that the 


——— 





SAMUEL AND ZACHARIAM, or 


Wanyoro, or Wara-Sura, had been chased out of so many 
countries, und that Ruigi, King of Kitaywenda, had also: 
spoken in our favour, onan with the nature of the 
service which had caused so many canoe cargoes of salt 
to be Crit of at small cost; and, therefore, though 
the reyul family were disposed to be cordial and kind, 
they were nop wholly without fear that the party which 
had marched through southern Unyoro might in some 
manner be a danger to Ankori, 

Poor king's mother; had she known how secretly 
glad I was with the best message that I received in 
all Afriea, she need not have entertained any anxiety 
respecting the manner in which her mewage would 
be received. For thongh we were tolerably well 
sapped with native cloth and beads, we were poor in 
gifts worthy of royalty of such pretensions as those 
of Ankori, 

The country is said to be infested with lions and 
leopards, but we had heard nothing of them during 
the night. A hymna, however, broke into our camp- 
fold on the first night at Masakuma’s, and dragged 


ante a gent 

wo days’ short marches of four and three-quarters and 
three hours respectively, enabled us to reach Katara on the 
11th of July, Our rond bad led through # long winding 
valley, the Denny range on our right and the Tvanda on 
cour left, The streamlets we now crossed were the sources, 
of the Rusango, which, flowing north towards the Edwin 
Arnold Mt, meet the Mpanga flowing south from the 
Gordon Bennett and Mackinnon Cones, The Mpanga 
we croased aa we marched parallel with the eastern shore 
of the Lake Albert Edward. 

Soon after arrival in camp two Waganda Christians 
named Samuel and Zachariah, with an important follow- 
ing, appeared by the permission of Antari. After greet- 
ing us, they said they wished to impart some information 
if T could grant them a quiet hour. Expectant of the 
usual praises of their king Mwanga, which every loyal 
Mganda, as | knew him, was very prone to utter, we 
deferred the interview until evening. They delivered a 


fi» 





IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


| jpae. packet of seu 

ies i ate adap ich ern hey ha 
tiles hia net wus in theit favone, and a 
ee my chair, but within a few minutes it had heen 
abstracted by a light-fi Moslem. 

When evening came riah took upon himself to. 
relate a nurrative of astonishing events whicl occurred. 
in Uganda the last year. King Mwanga, the son of 
Mteaa, had proceeded’ from had to worse, tl the native 
Mobammedans bad united with the Christians, who are 
culled " Amasia,” to depose the eruel tyrant because me 
his ruthless executions. The Christians were ind 
join the Mohammedans—proselytes of the dnb cee 
Unanimously, not only because aM Mwanga’s butcheries of 
their co-religioniata, but because he had recently medi- 
tated a wholesale mussnere of them. He had ordered a 
large number of goats to be carried on an island, and he 
Sen saves the Christians to embark in his canoes for 
their expture. Had they accepted this invitation, his 
intention had been to Withdraw the vessels after the 
aiveaiberkon: and to allow them to subsist on the 
oan and afterwards starve. But one of the 

frayed his purposes, and warned the Christian chiefs of 
the Lng design. Consequently they declined to be 


present. 
‘The union of thee two parties in the kingdom of 
Uganda was soon followed hy a successful attempt to 


depose him. Mwanga resisted for a time with such as 
were faithful to him, but as his capitals, Rubaga und 
Ulagalla, were taken, he was constrained to leave the: 
country. He departed in canoes to the south of Lake 
Victoria, and took refuge with Said bin Saif alias 
Kipanda, a trader, and an old acquaintance of mine 
in 1871, who was settled in Usukuma. Said, the 





French missionaries at Bakumbi. Previous to this it 
appeats that both English and French missionaries had 
deen expellel from Uganda by Mwanga, and deprived 
of all their property except their underelothing. The 


lll 


THE REVOLUTION IN UGANDA. 86 


French settled themselves at Bukumbi, and the English 
at Makolo's, in Usambiro, at the extreme south end of 
Lake Victoria. 

‘After Mwangn’s departure from Ugunda, the victorious 
Moslem and Christian proselytes elected Kiwewn for 
their king. Matters p1 led smoothly for a time, 
until it was discovered that the Moslem party were en- 
deavouring to excite hostility aginst the Christians in 
the mind of the new King. ‘They were heard to in- 
sinuate that, us England was ruled by a queen, that the 
Christians intended to clevate one of Mtesu’s daughters 
on the throne ocenpied by Kiwewa. This king then 
leaned to the Moslems, and abandoned the Christians, 
but they were to express their doubts of his 
attachment to them and their faith, and would not be 

of it unless he formally underwent the ceremony 
of circumcision. The necessity of this Kiwewa affected 
not to understand, and it was then resolved by the 
Moslems to operate on him by force, and twelve Waton- 
golt pene: were chosen to perform the operation, 
Among these colonels was my gossip, Sabadu, to whom T 
was indebted for the traditional history of U; . 
Kiwewn wus informed of their purpose, and filled his 
house with armed men, who, as the colonels entered the 
house, were seized and apeared one by one, The alarm 
soon 5] through the capital, and an assault was 
instantly made on the palace and its court, and in the 
strife Kiwewa was taken and slain, 

‘The rebels then elected Karema to be King of Uganda, 
who was a brother of the slain Kiwewa und the deposed 
Mwanga, and he was the present occupant, of the throne, 

The Christians had rey ly attacked Karema’s 
forces, and had maintained their cause well, sometimes 
successfully ; but at the fourth battle they were sorel 
defeated, and the survivors had fled to Ankori to see! 
refuge with Antari, who, it was Ber would not 
disdain the assistance of such force of fighting men in 
his various troubles with Mpororo and Ruanda. There 
were now about 2.500 Christiana at Ankori’s capital, 
and about 2,000 scattered in Uddu, 

Vou. 1. uw 





1880, 
aly 10, 


i 


iat 
a 


Hil 








THE UPLANDS OF ANKORE. s7L 


Kiganda nature remained ee similar to what I wns 
acquainted with in 1876, the Waganda were quite capable 
of intriguing with Antari to interrapt my march, No 
readers of my chapters on the Waganda in * Through 
the Dark Continent’ will doubt this statement. I 
therefore informed Zachariah and Samuel that 1 should 
think of the matter, and give them my final answer on 
reaching some place near the Alexandra Nile, where 
supplies of food could be found sufficient for the party 
which I should be obliged to leave behind in the event 
of my conforming to their wish, and that it would he 
well for them to go buck to the Wagunda, ascertain 
where Mwanga was at that time, and whether there was 
any news of Mr. Stokes, 

At Katara, Mohammed Kher, an Egyptian officer, 
died. Abdul Wahid Effendi had chosen to remain 
behind at Kitega, and Thrahim Telbass and his followers 
had, after starting from Kitega, vanished into the tall 
gross, and, it may be presumed, had returned to remain 
with his sick countryman. : 

Our people were now recovered somewhat from 
that epidemic of fevers which had prostrated so many 
of us. But the Pasha, Captain Casati, Lieutenant 
Stairs, and Mr. Jephson were the principal sufferers 
during these days. The night before we had slept 
at an altitude of 5,750 fect above the sea. The long 
Denny Range was 700 feet higher, and on this Boer 
I observed that there was hour frost on the ground, 
and during this day’s march we had discovered 
blackberries. on the rond bushes, a frnit IT had not 
seen for two decades. 

On « third march up the valloy we had followed 
between Iwanda and Denny Range; we reached ite 
extremity, and, crossing a narrow neck of land, de- 
seconded ‘into the basin of the Rwizi. By degrees the 
misty atmosphere of this region wax clearing, and we 
conld now see about five miles distance, and the contour 
of the pastoral plateau of Ankori, It was not by any 
means wt its best. It was well into the droughty 
season, ‘The dry season had commenced two mouths 


auto 


372 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 
asso, previously. Hilly range, steep cone, hummock, and 
dain Lb Siakinee ee inate fire, The herds 
Vir were numerous, and all as fat as prize cattle, In the 
| valley between the Denny and Iwanda ranges, we had 
aver 4,000 cattle of the long-horned species. 
he basin of the Rwizi, which we were now in, and 
Pa arierean ie Henct afl Senkvet-apoeeeesed Bore 


We camped ut Wamaganga on the Lith. Its in- 
habitants consist of Watusi herdsmen and Wanyankori 
agriculturists. They represent the two classes into 
which the people of Ankori are divided, ard, indeed, all 
the tribes of the pastoral Teglons, from the [turi grass- 
land to Unyanyembe, and from the western shores of 
the Victoria Lake to the Tunganikn, The Watusi 
women wore necklaces of copper bells, and to their 
ankles wore attached circlets of small iron bells. The 
lan; was that of Unyoro, but there was a slight 

fectic difference, and in their vocabulary. the 
fm expressive word for gratitude, “Kasingi” was 
frequently used in this sense. 

ne of our men, whom ms gy, regretted, died ab 
this place of illness which ended in paralysis, and another, 
a Nubian, disappeared into the tall grass and was lost. 

On the 12th we marched along the Rwizi, and after 
an hour and a half crossed the stream, which had now 
spread into a swamp a mile wide, overgrown with « 
Hontisbing timela af pepyna., Our drove of cali 
lessened by twenty-four head in crossing this swamp, 
An hour's distance from the terrible ewamp we campe 
in the settlement of Kasari. 

The King’s mother sent us four head, and the Kin, 
three head of cattle and a eplendid tusk of se wi 
u kindly message that he hoped he and I would become: 
allied by blood-brotherhood. Among the messengers 
employed was a prince of the blood-royal of Usongora, 
ason of King Nyika, a8 pure a specimen of Ethiopie 
Ciaidatirad) ald (ES eth as saseenaere eae 
charged to escort us with all honour, and to provide for 
our hospitable entertainment on the way. 


— | 


a 


CUSTOMS OF THE WAHUMA. 7 


h it is very economical to be the guest of 
powerful African king, it has its disndvantages, for the 
subjects become sour and discontented at the great tnx 
on their resources, They contrive to vex us with com- 
plaints, some of which are fabricated, Our men also, 
emboldened by their privileges, assume far more than 
they deserve, or are entitled to in strict justice. They 
seized the milk of the Wanyankori, and it is considered 
to be a great offence for a person who is accustomed to 
eat vegetables to put his i to » milk vessel, and & 
person who cooks his food is regarded as unfit to touch 
‘one, as it causes the death of cattle and other ill effects. 
Seven of onr men were charged with these awful crimes, 
and the herdsmen, who are as litigious as the Aden 
Somalis, came in a white heat to prefer their complaints, 
It cost me some inconvenience to judge the peal and 
soothe the wounded feelings provoked by such scan- 
dalou ptices, 

On 14th we arrived at Nyamatoso, a large and 
prosperous settlement, situated at the northern base of 
the Ruampara range, when orders were issued to provide 
seven days’: rations of banana flour, because of fhe 
abundance of this fruit in the ¥. 

Mpororo is &S8.W. from e A few years. 
ago Antari advanced and invaded it, and after several 
sanguinary encounters the ple and their king 
became tributary to him, Rowhda ‘ins from a 
line drawn to the W.S.W., and is ruled over by 
King Kigeri. Not much information could be gleaned 
respecting it, excepting that it was a Jarge country, 
described ns equal from Nyamatoso to Kafurro. ie 
people were reported to be numerous and warlike, allow- 
ing no strangers to enter, or if they enter are not 
allowed to depart. 

One of our officers, feeble from many fever attacks, 
animadverted fiercely against the Wanyankori on this 
day, and T repeat this incident to illustrate the different 
views men take of things, and how small events pre- 
quake them against a race, He said, “ Yesterday you 

now the sun was scorchingly hot, and the heat, ‘the 








1889, 
uly 18, 
Kasart, 


«a 











= 


sip, 
im 


icy IN DARKEST AFRICA. 
Jong march, and a slight fover, made me feel as if T 


re anything for a drink of cool water, T came 
to that little on the plain, and I waked 4 man, 
who was insolently regarding us, and standing 

the door of his hut, to give me a little water to drink. 
Do you think he did so? He pointed to the swamp, 
and with his spear to the black ooze, 08 if to say, 
‘There you are, help yourself to what you want 
How cau you cull these people u fine mee? I don’t 
understand where you get your ideas from. Is 
that fine, to refuse a man a drink of water? If 
that man had what he deseryed—ah, well, it is no 
use talking,” 

“~My dear fellow,” I answered, “have a lite 
tience, and I will show you another view that might 
taken of that man. lave you lost your t 
mirror? If you have, I will lend you mine, and you will 
see a most ungracious face, gurnished with bristles, 
something like u thin cop, William de In Marek 
unshaved, hulf starved, and sick. Your eyes appear 
smaller than ever, and look lustreless and dead, Your 
aaky body ix clothed in rags. When you were in 
London T was charmed with your appearance. Adonis 
was nothing to you, but now, alas! excuse me, we have 
all u most disgraceful appearance; but you, when you 
have a fever! Well, look in a glass, and examine yours 
self! Now this native saw pate a man, with such an 
unlovely aspect, coming to him. How did you nsk him ¢ 
Did you give him ona of your charming smiles, that 
would muke a buffalo pause in his charge ; 1 doubt it, 
You were tired, feverish, thirsty—you said imperiously, 
“Give me a drink of water,’—and your manner added— 
‘instantly or.” Why should he, a freeman, before his 
own doorway obey such a command? He did not know 
you from Adam, and probably your appearance suggested 
it would not be pleasant to cultivate your acquaintance, 
Are you going to join the clique of travellers who can 
never recognise the good that is in Africa and the 
Africans? To your utter confusion, unfortunate mam, 
let me tell you the story of an occurrence that happened 





ee 





A NATIVE SAMARITAN. 375 


yesterday to one of your own personal friends. ‘The |» 
man of sehen he tells the was probably « brother arte 
or a cousin of this same individual who has incurred 
your severe dis 

“ This officer had a bad attack of fever; he was seized 
with a vertigo, he reeled, and sank in the grass by the 
wayside, The rear guard commander saw him not, and 
passed him by, little thinking « sick comrade lay faint- 
ing and almost unconscious near him. By-and-by 
a native warrior eame armed with spear, tt 
arrowa. He saw there was something in the grasa He 
went to the and saw one of our officers, helplessly 
lying before him, If he were a brute he might have 

ven thut sharp spear of his into him, and we should 
have lost one of our number, ~ But this man, listen, did 
nothing of the kind; and though he had never heard the 
story of the kindly Samaritan, went away, and in half- 
an-hour returned with a half-gallon gourd filled with 
fresh and cool milk, and gave it to him to drink, and in 
a short time our friend rose up strengthened, and 
marched to camp to tell me the kindly story. No Red 
Cross official he ; tothe kindly sentiments of charity and 
mery dinned into the, ears of the English race for xix- 
teen centuries he was an utter stranger. This is not 
like that English missionary who refused that Dutch 
captain, of whom we have heard, the drink of water, and 
therefore the race that can show one instance of such 
human kindness deserves to be called « fine race, Do 
you doubt the story? Here is our friend ; ask him 


yourself, 

“ Hesides, think of the hospitality we receive from 
them. A thousand men subsisting freely and gratui- 
tously on the produce of their plantations, m 
fields; plantains, beans, millet, sweet potatoes for food, 
tobaceo to amoke, and a free road, without levy of tax 
or blackmail! How do you know that that man had 
not been yexed by many things before you came? Per- 
haps some of our men had gibed at him in scorn, or 
looted his house, or threatened his farily before you 
came, Come, try again. Go into any of these villages 


el 





mit, 


876 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


about here. Ask kindly and mili for oe 
als sere tobaceo—and T plc you 


mare remember 
heen conquered by eta i am en ik 
took forty women saa to the chiefs 





a 


and distributed them to hie bravest warriors, 
and that all the princi sal chiefs were afterwards: 

and Ido not wonder that they resent the king laying 
such a tax upon them as the provisioning of this multi- 
tude with us, and if you will observe the conduct of the 





's messengers you will find that it is very 
or eae and very little ealealavk | 
their estimation of us. 


tyrannical 
to increase 


The Expedition ceeded up a in the pastoral 
range of ere alt jivan gine western end 
of which I think abuts the line of hills that bound the 
Albert Edward basin, and divides the basin of the Rwizi 
from the Alexandra Nile, and ufter crossing several airy 
mountain tops, descended into the bowl-like valley of 
Ruansau, whence rises the stream Namianja, Here we 


halted three days to refresh the people. 
Under date the 20th of uly £ find the fo 
in my diary — 


ol 


Mowing note 


‘This, morning tho fever that laid eno low pawed away. I hav 


Doon tare in raging that wo wore recovering from the Hl 
effects a that Usony it-water. No sooner is one of us well than 
‘another in prostrted, ‘hw Pasha and T have loan iow. to i 
‘ee with: fret fever at the same Stairs’ fover | 


imo. loft 
stare has been normal the huxt two days, 


lonlay. 
Gomi] fai on he 17H wan nbod at ny on tho 18th, 
tho 19th. ‘This ix the way we exixt now. ‘Thero are const 


and wna up Om 


into fovor, with two or three days of Inioonre health In ‘he interval 
‘Eile Wall Nasaih haa sleo died: of parsiynisy:and a NuMOoiag 





mi orks coe 


nt other Bay ‘women, and ehildeen, T 
obliged to yield to their entreaties and they and their farnilion will thar 
foro say hers, As Fexpeet the Hat-apparat of Ankor dl to go throng 


eal proceaa of blood-brotherhood, IW 


i oe inn peculiar elisa 
ito M6 an 





then N.E., crunt 


‘bo able to provide for thelr 
thiol Ankorl, Tha cold gusty wind 


univer coughing, 'calarshe, headaches the "pms esatoa toe 


a 


THE NAMIANSA VALLBY. 


jum avd minimom temperature makes ns all 
Yai wasnt gens 1878, my fol followora and myself were hialthy nnd 
Tpveoas chile craiag Nort Ankoe ae my pelrate Journals sala 


ian distaniea 
‘The former is too often exaggerated ont of all to tho 


Tongues while the later though often 
fhe Bidnosenas of racinew and. toe _joscoombiiy ‘of mountainn oF 
alystal depths, ii the Wi Slowing contours 
‘smooth Lines. ‘ste ‘eo ‘i it to Be 0 on thie 


wil ‘will fad "ite dangers fae wee real 





On the 21st we vestimed our march, and proceeded to 
follow a road that ran down the valley parallel with the 
Numianja. Thistles of unusual size, some sunflowers, 
and blackberry bushes lined the path. The stream haa 
three sources, a tiny thread of sweet water rising from 
forny recess, a Han of nitrous and sulphurous water, 
and a ile pond of atrong alkaline water, At the end 
of three hours’ march the stream was 5 feet wide, but 
its Havour was not much improved. Banana plantations 
alternated with cattle-folds along the path. 

‘The next day we started at dawn to continue our 
journey down the Namianja Valley, which is narrow 
and winding, with spacious plats in the crooked lines me 
mountains. In an hour we turned sie aca from rs 
N. to SE. by & down another valley. 
of the finest and fattest cattle met us as 
driven from their zeribas to graze on the rich bay like like 
grass, which was green in moist places. After a short 
lime the course deflected more eastward, until we gained 
the entrance of a defile, which we entered, to ascend in 
half an hour the bure breast of a rocky hill. Surmount- 
ing the naked hill, we crossed its narrow summit, 
descended at once its southerly side, into a basin pros- 
roa with banana ee as a herds, and 
tool from the glaring and scorching sun in 
Viaraba village 

‘The rear-guard were disconcerted on leaving Namianja 





878 IN DARKEST AFRICA, 


Valley by the hitherto peaceful natives turning out 
ates sae on masse with wareeries, and with very 
Mil menacing gestures. ‘They advanced to the attack 

tivice, without, however, doing more than levelling 
their spears and threatening to launch them. On 
the third advance, conceiving that the guard must 
be terribly frightened by their numbers, they shot 
some cight or ten arrows, at which the Commander 
ordered a few harmless shots to be fired, and this 
sufficed to send them scampering with loud cries up 


the hilla 

Close behind the rear-guard, but unknown to them, 
were advancing Uchunku, the Pyince Royal of Ankori, 
and his escort of musketeers and spearmen, and a second 


been 
spectators of the hostile play, explained, upon which the 
musketeers were sent in chase, killed two of the Wan- 
yankori, and disarmed twenty of them, 

At 2 pa. Prince Uchunka and escort reached 
Viaruba, and instantly requested an interview. He waa 
a sweet-fuced, gentle looking hoy of about thirteen or 
fourteen years old, a trac Mhuma with the Abyssinian 
features,“ He was accompanied by his governor, or 
guardian, an officer in command of the spearmen and 
carbine-armed guards of the Prince. He uve ws two 


ge steers; one had such massive and long horns, 
that made it but a poor traveller, and to be 
slaughtered for beef The usual ‘friendly es 


were exchanged, and after he had fairly entisfied his 
curiosity with viewing the strange sights in camp, it 
was arranged that the ceremony should take place on 
the next day, 

On the 25rd the ceremony passed off with considerable 
éclut. The Zanzibaris, Soudanese, and Manyuemas were 
all under arms ready to salute the Prince with a few 
discharges from their rifles, at the face of the hill, about 





THR PRINCE OF ANKORI 879 


400 yards away. The Maxim was also in order to assist 
with its automatic aetion. 

The rite of blood brotherhood hegan with the layin, 
of a Persian carpet, upon whieh hae Prince and 1 
our seats cross-legged, with left hands clasped across the 
knees. The Professors of the Art advanced, and made 
an incision in each left. arm, and then each Professor took 
a small portion of butter, and two leaflets, which 
served as platters, mixed it with onr blood, and then 
exchanging the leaves, our foreheads were rubbed with 
the mixture, The ceremony was thus relieved of the 
sepelerenaas whieh aha it when performed 
among epee tribes, ‘Then the Prince, who was now 
my youn; rote, eae et me Les hand into my hut to 
smile an bs look’ pl is young heart was made 

glad with some “ice ti Cairene cloths, a necklace eon- 
fsbuted by the Egyptian women ond the Pasha, of fine 
large beads, which captured his affection by storm. His 
governor received a cow, and the gu received an 
ox to feast themselves with beef, and the Prince had, in 
his torn, to give a fine goat to our Professor, for these 
offices, even in renee land, are in high honour, and must 
receive handsome 

‘The rifles then fired five rounds each, to the boy's 

tt admiration, but the showers of the Maxim and the 
cloud of dust raised by the bullets on the face of the 
opposite hill simply sent him into ecstasies, and to 
Ear him crying his soul out in rapture, he lnid his 
and firmly over his mouth. Opinions differed as to the 
iis covering his mouth, and even in jest it is 
mel a to be untruthful, but some said that he feared 
his fine teeth would be suay in pieces by excessive 
cbatteriny in terror, but I firmly maintain that it was 
from childlike wonder and pleasure. 

‘At any rate, I was publicly recognised aa a son of 
Ankori, to be hereafter permitted to range at will 
throughout the dominions of Antari, with 1 of resi- 

ee, free access to every plantation in the kingdom. 
Furthermore, the Prince swore in his father's name, 
for so he was commanded, that all white men entering 





r 





330 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 
Anl 


With the Prince of Ankori was a second deputation 
from the Waganda Christians The result of my long 
oross-exumination of them I embodied in the 
entry in my journal :— 


“1 four whon T first heard of the expatsion of the minsionarios from 
Oganda tat they had loon inconsiderate, and impulsive 
of that though thoir oondust was: 
‘aoconting to their coda, their narrowed nnd want of 
commit rs of ment it thn Chi 
much, 


ph a ote 
Mrongh the yoko of Swann was cieealingly heavy to the 
sonaries hal in this abstained from modilling in tho of 
country. Sowothing like 250,000 must have leon expendat on 
minsion since it was established. Werw the story of it truthfully: 
it would contain in itself all that iy needed to guide thoeo int 
it, ‘The tragic doaths of Saith, O'Neil, Penrose, and Bishop 
‘the mortal diseases whieh cutoff Dr. Suiith, and, ne Zachariah tela nse, 
more, one of whom is called Kixhop, the almost fruitlow rovidense in 
Uganda of Mostes. Wilson, Pearvon, and Felkin, the eplondid 
;, und tho industry and devotion of Ashe and Gonton, 
history of those gentlemen's labours, sulecores, and failures could 
not be penned without immediate onnpreheusivenesk of the onmaes 
hich let some to triampn, whero wisioin was exhibited, and rmshness 
"Noman having pat his hand to the plough and fooking back ist 
for the kingdom of heaven. No mun having accepted truyt ean fn 
jonour do otherwise than continue in that trust until Beh 
T auppowo, as fhe note of retreat had been sounded befor I loft Afries, 
the council of the Christian Mission Society will ondor Mr. 
to withdraw uow, T hope sot. ‘The expulaion of the misslonurien 
and tho dispersion of thotr Chrntinn flocks would, strike any ono el, 
looking at It from a layman's point of view, ax the dawn of the das 


baal 


i 


al 


of victory, ‘Tho ahouty of triumph uttered by the Mol now 
in powor should not dishearten, bot shoukl inspins thea to nobler 
‘wiser efforts, 10 porsovere patiently and unremittingly. No 
ease, no great work, OF grout enterprise was ever succossful it 
Vorfeet tith that it! wow worthy of umweneying effort and atronmoM 
wing. 
“Ont of the 4,000 oF 6,000 converts reported by Zachariah nnd Ral 





| 





= 
- 


THE WAGANDA CHRISTIANS. 881 





‘those at home IT would the of the wino Gentile woman— 
"fr Lar bth dogs up ean that hi fromthe te Pr 


tion. 
igeronte is tot per ite eve tat hye ol 
own.” If this be ro the Waganda converts hava proved that the mision 
‘and a most remutkable success. Tho missionaries wore 

that tho element sprang, 1 


£ 
aE 
eee 
al 
sEFEE 





oH 
HE 








B82 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 
Zachariah and Samuel were now informed that, 


A oy eno Silty of lneing may ebarg, they hal bot 
SSeS eerailoa 
ox) Tatters to their we 
crn marr Us) Pee ere eae 
tv of ah Cis gg permitted to accom- 
eee sea, which ee was readily 


irae the 24th, after winding in and out of several 
valleys, between various pastoral ranges, which were 
black from recent fires, a3 the grass everywhere was 
white sit nge and eaeeamainoeata we entered the valley - 


it 


tall ake nice The ea of Nana produced 
nbundantly quite a variety of garden produce, such as 
heans, tomatoes, phen manioc, cucumbers, 
Basis igulls, bananas, and 
The next-day, ee down the Mavona Ae for 
four and a half hours, we suddenly came in 
Alexandra valley, and found hut. the lon Tine of hills 
which winded SE. was on the Reanapine a of the 
river. At this season the features of the land on both 
sides are very forbidding, and mnrelioved by any pate 
of cultivation, and rendered more so by the fires, which 
have transformed every valley and hill into wastes of 
black ashes and desolateneas. 
During the 26th and 27th we were ferried across the 





iH 





PrPone requested the ohio of the Christians in Uddu to ndvance by lan 
i reaching within ove day's march of the capital the Christians werd 
attackes! ani in great danger, but Me. Stokes, Mwunga, and his faithful 
followers hurriel wo thai ak and Koco and the Mohammedan, party 
‘wore do of Ootober another battle took, pluew elo to 
the oaptal utasn, wherest aren und hos Arab ovafelesten tee 
completely routed, and on the Sth, Myanea and his white friend entered 
fe captal. Kareina and his Ava} auxiliaries attrmptod to take tof 
in Unyoro, but Kabba Roga, the King of Unyoro, refused to admit him 
‘unto he parted from his Atab frieiids. He wae therefore compelled to 
seize n postion near the northern frontier of Ugnnda, where he femtaibed 
‘at lant acoonnts with 600 guns, So ends thie romantic history for the 
tion Maan is again ons throne, and the English and rene ose 
sionatios are again established in Ugatida, 


SS 








THE ALEXANDRA NILE. 888 


river in four doubie sets ot most uncouth canoes, and 1889, 
then the Ankori escort, the Waganda converts, were dis- J*!7 
missed, having satisfied Antari, and each of our friends **"™* 
with such gifts as won their professions of gratitude. 

The Alexandra Nile at this place was about 125 yards 
wide, and an average depth of nine feet, flowing three 
kuots per hour in the centre. 





The 
Wahu 


a IN DARKEST AFRICA 


CHAPTER XXXII. 
THE TRIBES OF THE GRASS-LAND, 
‘The Wabuma; the exact ite of the Dwarfs; their 


‘Bribes only allied to the. tr ‘tribes of the Nilotie 
to oi 
inte —the‘Hondesnoe Toe traditions 9f Unyore--My expedonede 


of the We ae ee ‘Kavalli—View ot the 
countey from Kavalli ea i walli, Katto, and Gavia 
boron. thei emiisceneas— 


ure-land lying betwoon Lake Albort aud 
‘tho district round Kavalli: thotr ilk-yield—Threo ensos noforring. 
to calle which 1am eallod oped to sijudieate—Howeho dati, 
Ethiopinn charucteristics preserved among the tribes of the 
Innd—Cnstoms, habita, and religion of tho tribos—Poor 
‘euxpoctad of conspiracy against Ins ebief, Kavalli: his doath—Diot 
of the Wahuma-—Tho elimate of the region of the gruseland, 


Tie Wahuma are the most interesting people, next to 
the Pigmies in all Central Africa. Some philological 
nidderings have classed them under the generic name 
Bantu, and every traveller ambitious of being com- 
prehended among the scientific, adds his testimony and 
influence to perpetuate this most unscientific term, 
Banew is om Inner African word of which the translation 
is Men. We are therefore asked seriously to accept it 
4s n solemn fact, upon scientific authority, that the 
Wahuma, like the Pigmies, are men. 

The Wahuma are the exact opposite of the dwarfs. 
The latter are undersized no , adapted by their 
habits to forest life; the former are tall,” finely- 
formed men, with almost European features, adapted 
from immemorial custom and second nature to Jife in 
pastoral lands only. Reverse their localities, and they 
pine and die. Take the Pigmies out of their arboreal 


| 





THE INDO-AFRICANS AND THE PIGMIES 885 


recesses and. d twilight, and from their rege: 
table diet, and plant them on a grass-land open to 


and milk us you may, and they shrink with the cold 
and exposure, refuse their meat, and droop to death. 
On the other hand, deport the Wahuma into the woods, 
and supply them with the finest vegetables, and always 
with plenty of food, and the result is, that they get 
depressed, their fine brown-black colour changes into 
ashen gray, the proud haughty carriage is lost, they 
contract an aspect of misery, and die in despair and 
weariness, Yet theae two opposites of humanity are 
called Bantu, or men, a term which is perfectly 
meaningless, and yet ‘ax old as the story of the 
Creation, Tn North America we see to-day Esquimaux, 
zag Trish, German, French and Spanish Americans, 
and Indivns, and, after the scientific manner, we should 
eall them Bantu. Interest in the various human famis 
lies ig not roused by comprehending them under such 
unphilosophieal terms. 
he Wahuma ure true descendants of the Semitic 
tribes, or communities, which emigrated from Asia 
across the Red Sea and settled on the coast, and in the 
aaa of Abyssinia, once kuown as Ethiopia, 
this great centre more than a third of the inhabitants 
of Inner Afrien have had their origin. As they 
southward and conquered the negro tribes, miscegena- 
tion produced a mixture of races; the Semitic became 
tainted with negro blood, the half-caste tribes inter- 
married aguin with the primitive race, and became still 
more degraded in feature und form, and in the course of 
nges lost almost all traces of their extraction from 
the Asiatic peoples, Tf « traveller only bears chis fact 
in mind, and commences his researches from the Cape of 
Good Hope, he will be able easily, as he marches north~ 
ward, to separate the less adulterated tribes from those 
who are so nearly allied to the true negro type ms to 
bear classification as negroid, ‘The kinky, woolly hair 
ix common to all; but even in this there are shades of 
difference from that which is course almost a4 horse- 
‘vor, M1 3 


1699, 
ye uly 
winds and the sunshine, feed them on heef and grain wtb 


‘| 


‘536 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


and ing study being the Caucasian 
ides Mevdeenehae | Broching | Caen 
Zalus, Matabeles, Basutos, Bechuanas, or any other of 
the fierce South African tribes, select an 
specimen of those splendidly-formed tribes so. ruth- 
Jewly denominated as negroes, and plant him newr a 
West African, or Congoese, or Gabonese type, and place 
a ee pines eit and having ie ‘one started 
‘on the right trail of discovery, you will at onee perceive 
that the features of the Kuttir are a subtle 
tion of the Hindu and West African types; but if we 
take a Mhuma of mature uge, the relation to the Hindu 
will still more readily appear, Advancing across the 
Zambezi towards the watershed of the Congo and 
a, we observe among the tribes a confusion of 
types, which may be indifferently as bei 
intermediate family between the West African the 
Kaffir; an improvement on the former, but not quite 
up to the standard of the latter. If we extend our 
travels cust or west we will find this to be w 
far-spreading type. It embrces the Babisa, Barua, 
Balunda, and the tribes of the entire Congo basin; 
and to the eastward, Wachunga, Wafipa, Wakawendi, 
Wakonongo, Wanyamwezi, and’ Wasukuma, Amor 
them, every now and then, we will be struck wi 
the close resemblance of minor tribal communities to 
the finest Zulus, and near the eastern littoral we 
will soe negroid West Africans reproduced in the 
Waiau, Wasugara, Wangindo, and the blacks of 
Zanzibar. When we return from the East Coast to 
the uplands bordering the Tanganika, and advance 
north as far as Ujiji, we will see the stature and 
facial type much improved. Through Ujiji we enter 
Urundi, and there is again a visible improvement. If 
we go cast a few days we enter Ubha, and we are 
in the presence of twin-brothers of Zululand—tall, 
warlike creatures, with Cancasian heads and faces, but 
dyed darkly with the sable pigment. If we go east 














—— 





‘THE INDO-AFRICANS 387 


a little farther, among those mixtures of pure negroes, 1889, 


with Kaflir type of ancient Ukalaganza, now 


Usumbwa, we see a tall, grsceful looking herdsman yattiow 


with European features, but dark in colour, If we ask 
him what he is, he will tell us his occupation is 
herding cattle, and that he is a Meusi, of the Watusi 
tribe, ‘Is there any country, then, called Utusi?" 
and he will answer “No ; but he came from the north.” 
We advance to the north, and we find ourselves travel- 
ling along the spine of pastoral upland, We are in 
the Nilotie basin. Every strearnlet trends easterly to a 
great inland sea called now the Victoria Nyanga, or 
westerly to the Albert Edward Nyanza. This upland 
embraces Ruanda, Karagwé, Mpororo, Ankori, Thangiro, 
Uhaiya, and Uzongora, and all these tribes inhabiting 
those countries possess cattle; but the people are 
not all herdsmen. Many among them are devoted to 
agriculture, After journeying Richer and thither, we 
are impressed with the faet that all those occupied with 
tending cattle are similar to that graceful Mtusi whom 
we met in Usumbwa, and who vaguely pointed to the 
north as his original home, and that all the agriculturists 
are as negroid in feature as any thick-lipped West Const 
Afvican. By dwelling among them, we also learn 
that the herdsmen regard those who till the soil with as 
much contempt as a London banking elerk would view 
the farm labourer, Still advancing to the north we 
behold an immense snowy range, Cee 
barrier ; we deflect our march to the west, and find this 
Mtusi type numerous, and stretching up to the foot of 
the mountains, and to dense, impenetrable forests unfit 
for the herding of cattle; and at once the Caucasian 
type ceases, and the negroid features, either coppery, 
black, or mixed complexion—the flat nose, the sunken 
ridge, and the projecting of the lower part of the face— 
are dumb witnesses that here the wave of superior 
mces was arrested. We retrace our steps, ascend to 
the upland and skirt the snowy range castward, and 
over « splendid grazing country called Toro, Uhaiyana, 
and Unyoro, we #ee the fine-featured herdsmen again 











$83. IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


Wihums Saw them further south. After passing the snowy 
“Sulit to other 
iki to other 





men have changed their names from Watusi to Wany- 
ambu, Wahuma, Waima, Wawitu, and Wachwezi, That 
is, they have accepted these titles in the main from the 
sgncultaret class, hut whether in Ankori, or st 

mand Bavira, or dwelling with the W or 
in Unyoro, they call themselves Watusi, Wahuma, 
or Wachwezi. In Karagwé, Ankori, or Uecntares 
they are the dominating classes, Their descendants 
sit in the seat of power in Ihangim, Uhaiya, 
Uganda, and Unyoro; lut the people of these countries 
are an admixture of the Zulu and West African tribes, 
and therefore they are more devoted to agriculture. 
When, as for instance, tribes such as Waganda, Wasogn, 
and Wakuri have been left to grow up and increase in 
power and prosperity, we have but to look at the 
sea-like expanse of the Victoria Nyanza, and we a¢e 
the reason of it. No further progress was possible, and 
the wave of migration nese acer and eastward, 
and arate these tribes, and in their 
southward dropped a few members by the way, to 
become absorbed by the members of the agricult 
class, and to lose their distinctive characteristics, 

As the traditions of Unyoro report that the Wachwezi 
came from the eastern bank of the Victoria Nile, we 
will cross that river, and we find that between ua and 
Abyssinia there are no grand physical features such its 
great lakes or continuous ranges to har the migration 
to the south of barbarous multitudes; that the soil 
is pore and the climate ¢ isi 








y, and pasture unpromising, 
and that wll the tribes are devoted to the rearing Of 


lll 





THE PROSPECT FROM KAVALLI'S. 889 
in 


eartle; that the indigenous races, such as we see 
th phasis and ne the littoral of east cae 
'y the wuves of les on 

tartan sth, bee bran ao dheoghly extagen by 
the superior Indo-African race that the vast area of 
the upland from the Victoria Nile to the Gulf of Aden 
simply repeats its long-established types, which we may 
call Galla, Abyssinian, Ethiopie, or Indo-African.* ‘This 
too brief outline will serve to Hagen the reader for 
knowing something more of tl Valuma, the trae 
descendants of these Ethiopians, who have for fifty 
centuries been pouring over the continent of Africa east 
and west of the Victoria Nyanzu in search of pasture, 
and while doing 0 have formed superior tribes and 
nations along their course, from the Gulf of Aden to the 
Cape of Good Ho, vast improvement on the old 
prone vada OPA 

I propose to illustrate the Wahuma by onr_ex- 
periences with those who recognised Kuvalli us chief 

Looking westward from Knvalli’s we had a prospect 
of over 1,000 square miles. Though fairly populous in 
parts, the view was so immense that its ted little 
of human presence except in the immediate foreground, 
Compared to the mountainens ridges and great awells 
of land, what were a few clusters of straw-coloured 
cotes, with yenerous spaces between showing the 
emall arable plots of the Bayira soil-tillers? During 
the earlier days of our residence at Kavalli we 











* 1b therefore necemary, shen speaking of the coloured 
racoa of Tuner cutie 10 bane In tiled that tag” ro how devoloped 
nto five dintinet typex, which may be called Negro, Seini> 
Ethiopie, Ethiopie, and’ Burbetine or “Mautesquo, ‘and that among, 
thee type there are found, a neamber modified mation 

‘ono with another, euch me with Noyeo—poducing tubes whose 
adult males havo’ an averago height of & foot 2 inches; Negro. with 
‘Omani Arabs, as of the Eastern sen-boand: Evhiopic with Arab, as along 
‘th littoral in the nejzhhourhood of the July; Rerbyrine with Nogro, ws i 
Dacfour, Konlofan, the henlsmon of the Upper Nile, and cost of Sierra 


ne, 

T regret that time door not penait me to illustrate. what jax eon 
stated lowe ly a map, by which every rondor woukl understand at a 
lance what fae teen effected during fifty conturies by tong wuccessive 
waves of migration fram Aain into Africa. 








390 IN DARKEST AFRICA 


iss, enjoyed the free, uninterrupted, limitless view of 
Le paar swelling ridge, bold mountain, isolated 
Wabvww hill, subsiding valleys, and ae levels, Une 
disturbed by anxiety from want of food, and satisfied 
with our diet of grass-land esculents and nourishing: 
meat, it was exhilarating to the nerves to watch the 
countless blades stoop in broad waves before the 
gusty winds from the Nyanza, and see them roll and 
swerve in currents of varying green, after our long 
forest life. 
' pone ay wherein sia ee his ba and 
every night, was in the centre of a gentle slope 
of turfy green, Constant browsing by the swarming 
herds of himself and Wabuma neighbours kept the grass 
short, and gave us unobstructed views und walks over 
delicions pasture, Even the tiny chicklings attendant 
on the mother hen might be numbered at a bowshot's: 
distance. Every few yards or so there rose an ant-hill 
from 8 to 12 feet high. ‘They served happily enough 
for the herdsmen to keep watch over their and 
flocks of sheep snd goats, and those near the kraals 
were the resort of the elders and gossips to discass the 
events of the period. There at such times, in low 
converse with Kavalli and his aged ‘men, | gained large 
insight into the local histories of the villages and tribes: 
about him. Indeed, no more suitable spot could be 
found, for before us were mapped out nearly threeseore 
districts, 

Far to the west rose Pisgah, throned high above a. 
hundred leagues of dark forest-land, and every yard of 
its contour distinct in delineation against the reddening 
sky. Lifted in lone majesty, a sombre muss, it atiraataal 
the attention in every pause of the conversation. From 
Pisgah, which to Ka’ was the end of the world, all 
beyond being fable and night, he would direct our 
to Kimberri’s cones, a day's march N.N.W, to the 
peak of Kuka seen just behi 
square-browed mount of Duki, 
occupied by the Balungwa, of whose numerous herds he 
had much to say ; and to Kavalli, be it remembered, there 


____ 














INTERNECINE TROUBLES, 881 


was no subject so worthy of talk a8 cattle, To the bo) 


south of west a range of grassy mountains rose in 


Mazambonis country, and extentng in a seemingly Walt 


unbroken line to the'verge of the gulf oceupied by 
Albert Lake, and its bordering plains, valleys, and 
terraces, ‘The westerly portion is see by n= 
boni, the custerly by Chief Koinubi. 

extending from the mountains as far as Kavalli is 
called Uzanza, and is oceny Lan the agricultural 
Bavira, who came originally ‘fom ind Duki, in the 
neighbourhood of Kukn Peak. Between Kavalli_ and 
Kimberri a great cantle of the plain is owned by 
warlike Musiri and his people. 

Having dealt with the main feature of the land, 
Kavalli proceeds to unbosom himself, He is in 
danger of his life from Kadengo, who is an ally of 
Kab a, and he has an oy in ee me 
years ago Kavalli da village near the Nyanza, 
soli id dient eredst ced ones ec reat neavee 
fine possession, and with Katonza and some raiders of 
Unyoro set upon Kavalli, burned his village, slew many 
of his people, and despoiled him of all his cattle in one 
night, Kavalli fled to Melindwa, and after awhile he 
returned to live with the Bavira, and by seraping « bit 
here and there, and muking good bargning, he can show 
bout eighty head of cattle to-day. He hus received 
warning, however, that Kadongo will attack him again. 

No sooner has Kavalli ceased his graphic recital of 
wrongs endured, than Katto and Kalengé—Mazamiboni's 
brother and consin—begin to detail the wrongs inflieved 
on them by Musiri. A brother and a sister, several 
relatives, and many friends have been slaughtered by 
relentless Musiri. ‘The stories axe given cireumstantially 
with expressive action, and heighten the atrocious 
conduet of Musiri. 

Then Gavira begins to relate haw the Balegga of 
Mutundu, and Musiri, have ill-treated him. According 
to him, what few henls escaped the rapacious Wara-Sura 
during their periodic raids have been often thinned 
by the nocturnal cattle-lifters of Mutunda and Musiri, 














392 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


se. who steal alternately from him. “ Ah,” Gavira, — 
ir day it i the Warn-Sury, to-moraow it ie Musi, the 
Falta in fr eee we are continually fying to the 


Yet, gazi nthe woniderfelly lauait soma OnE 

and ic was rea in the sky, and a 

restfulness everywhere, os roel have sup- 

posed this Areadia-like land was disturbed hy conten 
tions, enmities, and wars ? 

Most of the Wahuma now west of the Albert came 
from Unyoro, us they led from the avaricious tyranny 
and ayurice of its kings, 

Old Rug a for sition? who is next neighbour to 
Kavalli, and whose forty head of cattle we rescued for 
him from Melindwa, was born in Unyoro, and re= 
members his great-grandfather, who must have beet 
oe about 1750 4.p. When he was ten years old ( Bi 

\ji remembered Chowambi, father of herein 

By ior of Kahba Rea, sending to his great-grandfiather 
for cattle, “At that time the Semliki River flowed into: 
4 large Ingoon, called Katera, on the south-cast side of 
the Lake The Waganda were often prevented from 
crossing over to the Baleeys countries 

Jagoons, but since the Tagoons have been filled with 
mad, and the Semliki falls into the Luke, and as 
Kammsi wanted cattle continually, and one day he 
took all, 1 took my women and children, when T was 
a young man, and came over here.” 

Have you had peace here, Ruguji?" 

“See my scare; | have things to remind me of the 
Buleggn and Melindwa, Musiri and the Wara-Sura, 
The Bavira alxo came from Kukaland, and they asked: 
our permission while we were feeding our herds to come 
and live with us, but they have the big head also, 
some day there will he trouble with then 

The pusture-land lying between Lake Albert and the: 
forest was subjected to much denudation by rite 
Though the bosses of hills ridges, dykes, bear an 
approximately uniform level, the termediate ground 
varies greatly —it is highest of course as it appromches 


— 














THE HERDS OP THE GRASS-LAND. 208. 


the Albert, and lowest towards the Ituri river, which 
drains nearly the whole of the area, It would be 


ditlicult, however, to find an absolutely level tract of any’ witnma 


respectable extent, though a cursory view of it might: 
dena Oibecpiesel Teitera chonliental apse of slope 
and counter-slope, supplying scores of tributary rivulets, 
brooks and stream, belonging to some main’ feeder of 
the Tturi. 

‘The nature of the soil, being a loose sandy loam— 
loosened still more by hosts of burrowing beetles, which 
do the office of moles and earthworms—oflers no resist- 
ance to the perpetual denuding of the surface by 
frequent furious and long-lusting rainstorms, despite ite 
rich erops of grass. A visit to one of the streams after 
a rainstorm reveals how rapid is the process of destrac- 
tion ; and if we follow one of these amaller streams to 
the confluence with the main tributary, we shall see yet 
greater proofs of the havoc created in the face of the 
apparently smooth swells of land than would appear at 
first possible by a few hours’ heavy rain, 

In the district in view from Kavalli I have estimated 
that the entire number of cattle cannot exceed 4,000 
head, ‘They ave almost equal in size to English oxen, 
and are of a humpless breed, ee different from the 
speciee south and east of Lake Victoria. The horns 
are of medium length, though there are some few 
distinguished for unusual length of their horns, The 
Ills, however, were well developed in the hnmp. The 
eattle of Usongora and Unyoro are moatly all oe horn- 
Jess und humpless breed, “and principally of a fawn 
colour; while those of Ankori have immensely long 
horns, and their hides are of variegated hue. It is suid 
that the cattle are made hornless by burning them with 
fire, with a view to enable them to penetrate jungles 
‘The owners mark their cattle on the ears with one or 
several cuts, by piercing or excision at the ends. 

Kavalli informed me that large numbers of cattle are 
sometimes poisoned hy plants, if they happened to be 
driven somewhere not generally haunted by them, 

ted burnings of the gras, however, render the 


18, 
July. 


= 





IN DARKEST AFRICA, 


levelops, 

milk dries up, the coats begin to stare, the animal 
hated to net and dies. ae ia 

ald Wahuma have veterinary know! 
perl but many of their practices would not bear 
Peat Lwished to have some butter made with 1) 
ration of milk, and sent to borrow a churning gourd, 
after the operation directed the servants to wash the 
vessel ; bat this laced a storm of reproaches, They: 
believed water its vessel to injure the cattle, Nor 
will they permit » person who eats cooked food oe 
his lips to any pot, busin, or gourd that is used in 
contact with their cows. 

The sound of the churning was heard daily in a hut 
near my tent, and the operation was performed in « 
somewhat similar style to agitating a punkah, the milk 
gourd being suspended to the rafter of a house. 

The milk yield of the cattle is very small considering 
the size of the cattle and the abundance See 
The best milker does not furnish more than half a fal on 

diem. Kavalli's boys and young men were employed 
in milking our cattle. “They invariably lashed the hind 
legs together, and brought the calf to its mother's head ; 
one hand held the wooden vessel and the other milked, 
and they appeared to leave but little for the hungry 
calves, ‘The Deny often gave us as much milk as an 
ordinary cow, hut | have never observed that the natives 
cared for the fair supply they might have obtained from 
these naeful animals. 

‘Though a woman is aa much a chattel in these lands 
as any article their lords may own, and is priced at 
from one to five head of cattle, she is held in honour 
and esteem, and she possesses rights which may not be 
overlooked with impunity. The dower stock may have 
been surrendered to the father, but if she be ill used she 
can easily contrive at some time to return to her parents, 
and before she be restored the husband must repurchase 
her, and as cattle are valuable, he is likely to bridle his: 








i 








MARRIAGE CUSTOMS, 805 


temper. Besides, there is the discomfort of the cold 
hearth, and the chilly arrangement of the household, 
which soon serve to subdue the tyrant. 

T was requested to adjudicate a case relating to 
marriage custom, between Kavalli on the one hand, 
owner of a slave girl, and Katonza, a Mhuma chief. 
‘The latter had sought Kavalli’s girl in marriage, and had 

id two cows for her out of three that had been 

ixed us the price. Kavalli therefore detained the bride 
of Katonza, and this detention was the cause of his 
grievance, The price was not denied, and Katonza 
offered a plea that he feared the ee 
surrenc by Kavalli if he paid the rf 
was requested to put the cow into court, and in this 
manner the bride was forthcoming. 

Kavalli brought another ease to me for consideration, 
He was already five times married, and he desired a 
sixth wife. He had purchased her from the tribe of 
Bugombi, and her parents, having heard something to 
his prejudice, wished to compel a double payment, and 
would not deliver her to him, Whereupon ides ted 
to Kavalli that by giving another cow and a calf the 
matter might be arran; 

The next case that I had to judge was somewhat 
difficult. Chief Mpigwa having appeared at the Barza 
(Durbar), a man stepped up to manera him, because 
he withheld two cows that belonged to his tribe, Mpigwa 
es that the man had married a girl belonging 
to his tribe and had paid two cows for her, that she 
gone to his house, und in courw of time hud become a 
mother, and had borne three children to her husband, 
The man died, whereupon his tribe accused the woman 
of having contrived his death by witcheraft, and drove 
her home to her parents. Mpigwa received her into the 
tribe with her children, and now the object of complaint 
was the restoration of the two cows to the husband's 
tribe, “Was it fair,” asked Mpigwa, “after a woman 
had become the mother of three children in the tribe to 
demand the eattle back again after the husband's death, 
when they had sent the woman and her infants away of 








‘The 
Wahuma, 








808 IN DARKES1 AFRICA. 


their own accord?” The decision upheld Mpigwa in 
his views, as such conduct was not only heartless and 
mean, but tended to bring the honoured custom of 
marriage contracts into rene 

‘The women have eontrol the house, and over 
the products of the dairy and the field. It is the man’s 
duty to build the house, tend and milk the cattle, 
repair the fence, and provide the clothing, which is 
naturally scanty; but it is the woman who cultivates 
the makes the butter, and does the marketing. 
Butter and milk must be purchased from her, as well as 
the isions. It ig. an universal eustom in Africa, 

e dress of the men consists generally of a single 
goat-skin, whieh depends from the left shoulder, Tt is 
varied with antelope-hide with the hair scraped off, 
excepting a margin of three or four inches wide round: 
the ers, ‘The wives are clothed with cowshides, 
whieh are often beautifully tanned and soft: slave 
women, in the absence of a goat-skin, wear a strip of 
leather round the waist, from which a narrow piece of 
bark cloth depends in front and back, ora very limited 
apron, Girls up to a marriageable age travel about: 
publicly in complete nudity, while boys over ten bie 
old are rarely seen without a kid-skin, aping the adult: 
on oceasions of rejoicing each woman bears in her girdle 
at the back a banch of green leaves, corn or sugarcane 
leaves, or a piece of banana frond. 

‘The favourite wives of chiefs, or “medicine women,” 
“ witehes," ure also entitled like the great chiefs to wear 
‘a leopard-skin, or in liea of that, cat or monkey-skins. 
Tr seems to be a pretty general idea that leopard or lian 
skins prove rank and dignity. Ifa stranger expresses a 
doubt that a chief is only a person of low rank, he 
points to his leopard-skin and asks, “ How ean F possess 
this, then?” 

In looking over Wilkinson's ‘Ancient Egyptians’ the 
other day I was much ateack with the conservative: 
character of the African, for among the engravings 
T recognize in plate 459 the form of dress most common: 
among. the Wahuma, Watus Wanyambu, Wahha, 








_ lll 





ALFAGK FROM MN. TANLEY'S NOTEBOOK, 
Pha atagya'g natpuin Sa tetany hinaniy Man pe ke 
Bing ah Dad Raby f Prnans. Amrit’ pare erin Mind ohn td bes 
ap Aee , Host Forrihad bmn fapes SHay eons. 
frome Mey mente ap tne) fine 
PE mae anal Sy tant Le wn? Meg miy Stee me, mena be 
Merced Mad me (6! Dee he teeta d wasn frsimd tb, Cent rnin 
Bt lb ee oe Koren ne, fond nn me Pha tpi and Hesead 
Mane Geer Wk mae Whe Bra Caygans hetad) ME trian shal 
Fed Cewnty Kat Pinzarntens, Parra, Navntte, ane. had 
Pee tl ae eg cote Kare CR =, Me 
A ncanon Saf om Ving ennan, denlan Kot sd tn Soma ene 
Potty wri Lat enka, Bod bate Becned aseaitn Sm 
Nermachs: Sieg 5 tea Bulag ga, Miewulirenet Cacsas in WiC OC0nd, 
Mncat bana tee § veal toes, Sed torpe f PO barn, Hiscas KE 
Rinpraes me had Rand Skicbtnns fit Tren Hea Alalm Mpat 
Net lal he oon : Rhian 
Sy Gath, eM bree AN Ope sks bares! 
Ail MPL a teary FE, WET aaTak, Bl, daresay fred Fon Thy ya 
<Memute at V contd dancin ney fine Cam seit Shad tee fn 
Pathan wine if be tefinlak Gor ha 8 fried 4 Eisen Bihan be 
Mor Me ponds Gries Mactye Witinge cocnst fo 
Aertaned Hiker, thant, hrc, pans, bowls, Pama aml, tant, 
Sp baeeets Ray Monee mead a al mate panind 4 OA 
Pftd shape 





MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS. 390 


Warundi, and Wanyavingi, and which were in vogue 
thirty-five centuries ago among the bluck peoples who 


189, 
July: 


paid tribute to the Pharaohs. ‘The musical instruments watt, 


ulso, such as ure figured in plates 135, 136—a specimen 
of which is in the British Museum—we discovered 
among the Balegga and Wahuma, and in 1876 among 
the Basoga. The atts of kuives, the grooves in the 
blades and their form, the triangular decorations in 


MOUCAL OATHKANGEN OF THE MALINIGA, 


laster in their houses, or on their shields, burk clothes, 
»oxes, cooking utensils, and in their weapons, spears, 
bows, and clubs; in their mundus, whieh are similar in 
form to the old pole-axe of the Egyptian, in the curved 
hend-rests, their ivory and wooden spoons; in their 
enred sandals, which no Mhuma would travel without ; in 
their partiality to certain colours, such us red, black, and 
yellow; in their baskets for carrying their infants; in 
their reed flutes; in the long walking-staffx; in the 





ae> 








breasts, gestures expressive of being incou~ 
solable; cin their sad, am ly 5; und ina 
hundred other customs and habits, T see that old 

and faithfully 


‘The boy of * 
Sie ern eee 
pore their watering-pots for i so the 
Wahuma amin milk to eae yund the oil of 
their castor berries, and butter, serve t perpetuate the 


the 
modern youth of Inner Afrien may be ol that 
reverence whieh was so often inculeated in the olden 
time, ‘These people, heving no literatury, and ‘bed 
by advent of superior influences among them, have 
only learned what has been communicated to them by 
their parents, who had received from their progenitors 
auch Tew functions and customs as were necessary for 
existence and vation of their particular tribal 
tlistinetions. us the unlettered tribes of these lon; 
unknown regions are discovered to be pructising su 
eustoms, habits and precepts, as must have distinguished 
the anceatora of the founders of the Pyramids in the 
dark prehistoric ages of Egypt. 

No traces: of any weligie can be found among the 
Wahuma. They Velieve most thoroughly in the exis 
tence of an evil influence in the form of aman, who 
exists in uninhabited places as a wooded, darksome: 
gorge, or large extent off yeedy brake, but that he ean be 
propitiated by yifts; therefore the lucky hunter leaves 
& portion of the meat, which he tosses, however, as he 
would to a dog, or he places an OEE, ora small banana, 
or a kid-skin, at the door of the miniature dwelling 
which is always foond at the entrance to the zeriba. 

Every person wears a charm around the neck, or arm, 
or waist. They believe in “ evil eyes" and omens, but 
are not 0 superstitious ax the Waganda, proba 
becanse they are so scattered. Witcheraft is dreaded, 





— 


402 JN DARKEST AFRICA, 
is and the punishment of a suspected person follows 


ly: 
Watwms Poor Gaddo, a gonivlookings faithful fellow 
who accompanied Mr. Jephson aa lake pit Mawa 
Station soon after his return to Kavallts yi wis 
suspected of sonore, against his chief. Gaddo came 
to me and reported that he was in danger, and he was 
advised to remain in my camp until we should leave, 
‘Tho elders proceeded with a fowl to a distance of about 
a hundred yarda beyond the camp, and opened the 
breast. They were seen whispering together over 
what they had discovered, and it was presently known 
that the pie had found Gaddo: guilty of evil ives: 
against Kavalli, and this was doom, As Gaddo was 
us guiltless as the babe unborn, a messenger was sent to 
the chief to say that if he were injured Kavalli would 
be, held responsible. Yet Gaddo felt so uncomfort- 
able in the vicinity of the village, as public opinion had 
already condemned him, that he sought to escape to 
Katonza's by the lake, but on the brow of the plateau 
fate found him. Lt was reported cireumstantially that 
while standing on a rock he had fallen over and broken 
hia neck, Tt waa very sad to hear the young wife and 
children and sisters wailing for the dead, and Kavalli 
was markedly good and amiable in those day 
The diet of the Wahuma is principally milk. The 
sole of their butter and hides now and then enables 
them to purchase sweet potatoes, millet, and bananas, 
but it is with a peculiar pride they say they are not 
“hoemen." The sorghum of the tribes around them 
is of the red variety. The Indian corn, or maize, is of 
an inferior quality. It is planted in the latter part of 
February at the same period as the beans, In two 
months the latter are fit to be eaten. A month later 
the corn comes into ear, and in the fourth month it, is 
mature. In September the millet is sown and is ripe 
for cutting in February. Every village owns extensive 
tracts planted with sweet, potatoes, and along the edges 
of their plantain groves they grow colocassia, ar helnia 5 
but the latter ure not favourites with strangers, as 





CLIMATE OF THE GRASS-LAND. 403 


ignorance in the art of cooking them leaves them ips. 
nauseous. daly 
‘The *malwa," or beer, is from fermented millet und wait 
ripe bananas. It is in great demand, and a chief's 
greatest business in life appears to be paying visita to 
his friends round about, for the purpose of exhausting 
their malwa pots. Fortunately, it is not very potent, 
and is seareely strong enough to do more than inspire a 
happy convivial feeling. 
The climate of the region is agreeable. Five hours’ 
work per day can be performed, even out-door, without 
discomfort from excessive heat, and three days out 
seven during the whole of daylight, becaust of the 
frequent clouded state of the sky. hen, however, the 
sky is exposed, the sun shines with a burning fervour 
that makes men seek the shelter of their cool hut 
The higher portions of the gras#-land—us at Kavalli's, 
in the Buleggu Hills, und on the summit of the Ankori 
pastoral Epes mee from 4,600 to 6,500 feet above 
ne Bea, a large aoe of Toro ah ee 
Tnyoro as high as 10,000, and promise to he agreeable 
pth for European settlers when means are provided to 
convey them there. When that time arrives they will 
find amiable, quiet, and friendly neighbours in that 
fine-featured race, of which the best type are the 
Wahuma, with whom we have never exchanged angry 
words, and who bring up vividly to the mind the traits of 
those blameless oe with whom the gods deigned to 
banquet once @ year upon the heights: of Ethiopie. 





189, 
July 28, 
Karngw 


~! 


404 AN DABKEST AFRICA. 


CHAPTER XXXIV. 


‘TO THE ENGLISH MISSION STATION, SOUTH END OF 
VICTORIA NYANZA. 


Anton! and, Keragué-undor two espocts—Karegwé; and the Alexandra 
Nubian shows heute suny—Dieappenronce of Wed Asin!=-the 
asm ot of bay play Kibo; brs laws hie wi a 


Hot Springs—Arrival at Recent kings of Kar 
= Caplan Neloon's rewmblance to Speke King of 
ay mina io bt arc 
+ Toss of me tho eold— 


mneotcrs 

At the ne villas of al ular, 7 

fnilah runs amuck with the natives, and is delivered over to 
‘Tho Unjammtunda plotenu—Halt at Ngots Mwongl, that 
Kajumba’s territory —We obtain m good view of Lako Victoris 
country round Bisaho—Lions and human skulls in the vi 
our cainp —Tho events of 1888 cleared our truck for 
to tho ma-—We roach Amanda and Bwanga-Tho 
ftiet aod dhait stations at Uaaaubico—-Arseal at Mr, He's 
English Mission station—Mr. Markuy and his books—Wo rest, 
sophia one stray ete. —Momiw Bacay and Dake give 
Suptngns dinner previous to out, dpartare—The 
Mr. A.M Mackay, uated January 5, 1 


‘A srmanorn entering Ankori or Kamgwé in the dry 
season, and taking a casual view around, and seeing only 
vast spaces made black with fire, and lines and massive 
outcroppings of grey rock, long mountainous ridges 
heaving one after another, all burnt up, andl seorehed to 
seeming desoluteness, would be apt to exclaim imy 

tiently, “ Show me one beauty spot on the face of it “ 
This man ix an old acquaintance of mine. He is a 
spleeny, querulons, joyless fellow, of thin blood and 
aching liver, He will go to the Congo, or to Eust 
Africa, or to Bechuanaland, and standing on an ante 











é ia 


| 


ANKORI AND KARAGWE, 405, 


heap, he will ask with a sneer, “ Do you call this Africa ? 
Pho!” Nevertheless, within three weeks after the fire 
which burnt the sere grass, and gave the land an aapect, 
of desolation, the yor ass is waving merrily, exult- 
ing in its youth, a1 uty, und greenness over 
mountain summit, sl and valley, and these two 
posture-lands, renowned for the breeding of their cattle, 
veally look beautiful. I have seen them now under two 
aspects, To Ankori I give the preference, In it are 
mighty extents of plain stretching in a hazy, billowy 
manner, broken up here and there by humpy eminence’, 
pap-like bills, and dwarfish mounts, failed by tribu- 
taries of the Alexandra like the Rwizi, or by feeders of 
the abe ee ue the Rusungo, ond all ee 
curving lines grass-covered ran; ic 
aces enter rie Wa vena tuie Yana 
ox though all this was arranged after some cunning 
plan, to meet the exigencies of exclusive tribe, The 
plan has been defeated, however, for Antari rei 

the basins of the Rwizi, the Naminnja, the , 
and many another stream, despite the mountainous dy! 
and of late years he has anmexed Mpororo country, and 
if his power were equal to his ambition he would’ pro- 
bably annex Karagwé, and Koki, and Uddu, down to the 
Victoria Lake. 

We are now in Karagwé, The Alexandra Nile— 
drawing its waters from Ruanda, Mpororo, to the west ; 
and from north, Uhha ; and north-east, Urundi and Kis- 
hakka—runs north along the western frontier of Karagwé, 
and reaching Ankori, turns sharply round to eastward 
to empty into the Victorian Sea; and ns we leave its 
narrow Valley, and ascend gradually upward, along one 
of those sloping narrow troughs so characteristic of 
this part of Central Africa, we camp at Unyakatera, 
below a mountain ridge of that name, and like the view 
obtained from that summit two score of times repeated, 
ia all Karagwé It is a system of deep narrow valleys 
running between long narrow ranges as far as the eye 
can reach. In the north of Karagwé they are drained 
by small streams which How into the Alexandra. 


sui Sa, 
Ramer 


408 IN DARKKS? AFRICA, 


28%, The ade tare travel was Ley when we 
» reached Mtagata hot springs, whic! we already: 
MMR described in “Through the Dark Continent.” 
Soon aftor reaching the camp our Nubians set out to 
hunt, for the land is fimous for rhinoceros, and bei 
good shota, they dropped four of these huge beasts, 





AA HOP MIO, wrAGAEAL (From a Photograpl:) 


captured a baby, which they brought to ua We tied 
the baby, which was a3 large as a prize bour, toa tree, 
and he fully showed what combativeness there was im 
his nature. Sometimes he mistook the tree for an enemy, 
and roshed to the attack, battering it with its haa nose 
until, perceiving that the tree obstinately resisted him, 
he would halt to reconnoitre it, as though he had the 


yes) ie) 











TUE BABY RUINOCEROS, 409 


intention of assaulting it by another method; but at ssa, 
such times some wicked Zanzitari boys prodded him in Yolp ees 
the hams with w reed cane, and uitering a startling “™eé 
squeal of rage he would dash at the offenders to the 
length of his tether, He seemed to me to be the 
stupidest, most ireful, intractable little beastie that ever 
Thad met, Feeling himself restrained by the cord, he 
felt sure it must be the tree that was teasing him, and 
he would make another dash at it with such vehemence 
that sent him on his haunches; prodded, pricked in 
the rear, he squealed again, and swinging round with 
wonderful activity, he would start headlong, to be 
flung on his back’ by the rope; until at Inst, feeling 
that it would be only misery to him to be carried to 
the coast, he was consigned to the butcher and his 
assistants, 

On the march of July 31st to Kirurumo, Wadi 
Asmuni, a Zanzibari headman, laid his rifle and box 
on the path, and disappeared without a word of partin; 
or warning to any person, with nearly thirty mon 
pay due to him, while in perfect condition of body and q 
wt peace with all the worl 

Japtain Casati was placed in a hammock and carried 
on account of inereasing weakness. The Pasha visited 
me, and related his opinion that Casati was a 
mun. Said he: “I have just come from seeing my 
friend Casati ; T found him lying on some grass, an 
sunshine pouring on his bare head with such heat: that, 
even with my topee, I suffered inconvenience. He has 
four women, besides two Manyuema and his young 
man from our province. I asked him why he did not 
make his people build him a shelter with banana leaves, 
for there were some within forty yards of him, He 
replied, ‘I have no servants.’ I then said to him, 
e hy did you not send for the bath-tub I promised 
you? You’ should avail yourself of these hot springs.’ 
'Tme,'he replied, ‘but T have no people.’ ‘But you 
have four stout female servants that | know of.’ 
‘Yes,’ said he, ‘but I don’t like to ask them to do 
anything lest they should say I work them like slaves, 














40 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 
ah cee i widows, you know, and their husbands are 


‘The young pigmy damsel who had been with us for 
over a year in to show a ipiapie oh oe 
health, and was left with the hie of Kirurumo, The 
little thing had performed devoted service to Surgeon 
Parke, who had quite won her heart with those soft 
gentle tones of his that made everybody smile affeetion- 
ately on the Doctor, She used to be the guardian of 
his tent, and whenever the Doctor had to absent himself 
for a pee oa crouched at ee faithful my a 
spaniel, and would permit no intrnder to approach the 

ai Bilis pettoracte Wan war ry Aloe Cua 
trusive manner, and she was the only one of her sex 
who did not abuse the privileges we generally concede 
to women in the camp. On the road she carried the 
Doctor's satchel, and on nearing the resting-place 
was ns industrious ns a hee in collecting fuel, and 
preparing the Surgeon's cheering eup of tea, which after 
eee teaching she learned was necessary for his well- 
being. There was a little fellow of her tribe attached 
to another of the officers, wha never spoke a word to 
mortal being except to his master, was one of the first to 
in camp, collect the fuel, and make his fire. Though 
Jonded on the march he’ never appeared fatigued or 
worried, and never gave any trouble. Sometimes when 
by his industry he had collected a stock of fue), and 
a big callous-hearted ruflian took it from the boy, he 
would show his distress by his looks, but pee 
gathering courage he would abundon it and collect 
another pile, as though time was too precious to waste 
in useless argument over the inevitable, And thus the 
Pigmies showed by their conduct that they were related 
to all that was best and noble in human nature, 

Kibbo-bora, a headman of the Manyuema, lost his 
wife at the Hot Springs, and so great was his grief 
he had to be restrained Jest he should commit suicide, 
Sitting apart in the gorge of Mtagata he howled his 
laments during twenty-four hours, und his followers 
formed chorus to respond to his mournful cries 


— 





POLITICAL CHANGES IN KAkagwh, all 


None of us had much sleep that night, and thus we 
became involuntarily pa of his woe. Tt was 77 
ie days before ‘the poor fellow recovered from the “™™™™ 
shoe! 

Continuing our journey along those grassy ti 
which run purullel ‘to deep narrow valleys in a str 
and N.N.W. direction, almost invariably across the 
breadth of Karagwé and Ruanda to the westward, in 
three marches we arrived at Kafurro, a settlement that 
was once 3 Seyoatlte resort We at sea 

As in Uganda, changes have taken place in Karagwé. 
Mtesu, first made known to us by Captains Speke and 
Grant, has departed to the great majority, and within 
fourteen ees Mwanga, Kiwewa, Karema, and again 
Mwanga, have sat on Mtesa's throne. Rumanika, the 
gentle pagan, a chaneteristic Mhuma, has gone too, to 
sleep only a little more peacefully than he had. lived. 
And after him came Kyensi, his eldest son, who reigned 
only nine months. Then followed Kakoko, another son, 
who usurped the throne and reigned for three yeurs, 
and during that time slow seventeen brothers, and ps 
out the eyes of Luajumba, hia youngest brother, Then 
Ka-chikonju went in unto Kakoko as he lay on his 
bedstead sodden with malica, and drove his sharp spear 
twice through his breast, and relieved the land of the 

nt, ‘The same month Hamed bin Ibrahim, who bad 
lived in Karagwé many years trading in ivory, was 
murdered by his son, Syed ‘bin Hamed. ‘The successor of 
Kakoko to the rights and prerogatives of King of 
Karagwé is Ndagara, or Unyagambwa, for he has two 
names, who was now in his sixteenth year, and as the 
son of Kyensi was the rightful heir. 

The weleome extended to us through Ankori was 
extended to the Expedition in our journey through 
Karngwé. On the rond to Kafurro we had been per- 
mitted to help ourselves to bananas and plantaing, and 
as soon as Ndagara was officially informed of our 
arrival, he despatched to camp a sufficient supply of 
bananas, an ox, fowls, mala, and some loads of tne 
swoet potatoes, and grain. In return I made him a 


+) 


_ He IN DARKEST AFRICA. 
asso, present of a Winchester, and a couple of coils of 
Anes Wire, 


eg Kiengo, also the old guide of Speke and Grant, who 
accompanied them from Unyanyembé to Unyoro, sent 
us an ox, bununas, fowls, and milk; and to Cuptain 
Nelson, because he bore some resemblance to “ Speki,” 
nea 4 fat broad-tailed sheep, and the only tax we 
had to pay was that on our patience while listening to 
his reminiscences of “ Speki," which he was never tired 
of repeating. 

The King of Uganda is greutly dreaded in Karagwé, 
Before Mwanga was deposed no stranger could 
through the land without obtaining his sanction. The 
Wagunda, after the death of Rumaniku, had carried 
matters with such a high hand that they also taxed 
Ndagam's Arab guests with the same freedom as they 
would have exacted toll in Uganda, Two years before 
onr arrival the Waganda were in force at Ni '3 
cwpital, and at Kitangulé to command the ferries across 
the Alexandra Nile, They found Bakari, « coust trader, 
occupying the place of Hamed Ibrahim at Kafurro, and 
ecionded roe ia twenty guns and twenty kegs of 
powder, which he refused on the ground that he was a 

uest of the King of Karugwé, und not of the King of 

jgonda ; whereupon he and his principal men were 
shot forthwith, Considering these things it is nov 
likely we should have had a peaceful passage through 
Kamgwé had we adopted this route for the relief of 
Emin, with such quantities of ammunition and rifles as 
would have made Uganda so intractable that nothing 
bat « great military force would have been able to bring 
its king to reason. 

Tt wus clearly demonstrated what hold Uganda main- 
tained in Karmgwé, when in obedience to a request from 
twenty-six of the Pasha’s people that I should obtain 
permiasion of Ndagara for them to remain in the land 
until they were cured of their ulcers, I sent word to 
the king that we had several men and women unable to 
travel through excessive illness. Ndagura returned a 
reply stating that on no consideration would he permit 


ee 


FATAL OOLD. 


the 
King of Uganda that he allowed strangers to stay in 4" % 
his count 


‘try, he would be so exasperated that he would “™ 


not only send a force to kill the strangers, but that 
Karagwé would be ruined. His reply was sven to the 
Pasha, and he explained and a with his wearied 
init SiGe Collbwice eRe Ramee beri pie oecaeee 
to stay, as they had only 8 choice of deaths, and as we 
were already cruelly loaded, there was no help for it. 

From Kafurro we moved to Rozaka on the 7th, and 
the next day marched over dreary wastes of sere grass, 
in valley and on mountain, The morning was 
gloomy and threatened rain, and after we had filed 
along a tall ridge in the face of a bitter and chilly 
wind, a drizzly sleet commenced to full, which paralysed 
the Pasha's followers. The rearguard advancing after 
the column saw cars of collapse among many cases, 
and its commander, Captain Nelson, ordered a halt, and 
directed his men to make fires, but before the freezi 
people could reach the warmth, many fell down an 
stiffened, and becoming ‘leas to be carried to 
the fires and shampoved by the Zanzibaris, when they 
soon recovered. Five, however, had perished from the 
cold before the hard-worked rearguard could reach 
them. The head of the column, five miles ahead of the 
rearguard, had spurred forward to gain shelter in the 
banana groves of Uthenga basin, utterly beyond recall, 
ws the habit of the Egyptians and their followers was to 
dawidle along the eta place ns much as a mile or 
two between them and the porters, who by long ex- 
perience had learned that it waa beat to hurry to camp 
and be relieved of their burdens, 

On the 10th we left Uthenga, and erossing two 
mountain ridges descended 800 feet to the narrow 
basin at the head of Uvigi Lake, then traversed the 
ancient bed, and prion slpae, a road followed the east 
shore line of the lake, On reaching camp, ele to 
where the luke was about a mile wide, we slaughtered 
nine head of cattle for moat rations, and tossed two 
boxes of Remington ammunition into the water, We 


a 


4u4 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


iaae. had eee ourselves of African cnrios from 
Avg”. the forest lands, and of every superfluous article. We 
Uritate wore now beginning to relieve ourselves of the ammuni- 
tion, to carry the sick refugees from the Equatorial 
ae th passed of Kara; terri 
On the Lith we out we territory, 
and because of the complimentary introduetions from: 
dagam we were welcomed in Thangiro, and were 
escorted from village to village until we halted at 
Kavari, Bat here was the end of the free living. Every 
‘ain sind banana would have to be purchased hence 
forward. From the Albert Nyanza to this first important 
district in Ihangiro, nearly 600 miles, the Expedition 
had been supplied gratuitously and abundantly. It 
now behoved us to distribute to each man, woman, and 
child in the Expedition supplies of beads of various 
colours, red, white, blue, brown, and pink, of porcelain 
and glass, and each person would barter these currencies 
for food as he or she pleased, ‘To people who were 
accustomed to eat five days’ provisions in one day, it 
was imprudent to give more than four or five 
ration beads at a time. Had we given each person a 
month's allowance, which would have been a vast relief 
to onr burdened carriers, and a saving of eome sick 
people's lives—as we should have been enabled to have 
carried more of them in hammocks—nine-tenths of our 
followers would have expended their ration monies in 
purchasing only a little grain, but vast quantities of 
malwa, fowls, and goats, and in ten days they would 
have applied for more heads or cloth, and the Expedition 
Rib wav nda Salted acespioealy beget 
The Lake of Urigi is pretty when seen from Useni 
or Kavari. At thia season its hilly frame is all brown, 
with little dots of dark green bush seattered here and 
there ; the water was of a light blue owing to a bright 
blue sky. Its receding waters have left great extents 
of flat plain on the sides and around the hays running 
far inland into valleys. Its shores and waters are 
favourite haunts of birds, from cranes, herons, and 
pelicans, to the small black Parra Africana, egrets 


tts 


LAKE OF URIGE 41h 


and waders, which find excellent feeding over the large 19. 
apaces near the extremities and shore line of bays, AMe 1 
covered with close-packed growths of Pistia stratiotes 
plants, until they resemble green lawns from a little 
distance off. Hippos abound, and, unfortunately, armios 
of black mosquitoes, The eastern shore we found to be 
littered with bones of slain animals, for the lions and 





LANE Citar 


hyenas, it is said, 
kill much game, A 
large supply of fish is found in the lake, but they are 
infested with guinea worm—at least those which we 
purchased were deemed quite uncatable from that cause. 
‘The luke measures about twenty-five miles in length by 
from one to three miles wide, and is sunk about 1200 
feet below the average level of the bare grassy hills 
around it, 

From Kavari we journeyed ulong the luke shore to 
Mutara. No sooner had we arrived than native men, 
women, and children visited us to barter their surplus 
wovisions of grain, honey, fish, malwa, fowls, and 

nana. The hard-headed Soudanese proceeded to the 
village of Mutara, a mile off, and, unduly oblivious of 
the orders given the duy before when the beads were 











aa | 


i 


416 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


distributed, commenced to loot the village, more espe- 
See ema beans, In a country where not 
the obstacle is placed in the way of travellers, and 
where os might purchase anything of the of 
the land for cash value, as much surprise would be 
manifested as in Cairo or London at the sight of a mob 
of men looting stores and markets, Consequently the 
natives expostulated, and demanded to know what this 
conduct implied. For answer, a Soudanese, Futhel 
Mullah, loaded Lis Remington and shot one man 
dead, another in the jaw, and another in the | AB 
this was perfectly inexplicable to the natives, 
of avenging themselves there and then, a body of fifty 
of Oia came to the camp as an alias bo to 
demand an explanation of me, \e story 80 
incredible ‘hat I sent an officer with them to see 
dead man and wounded, and the officer on his return 
reported that the story was true. every 
the Expedition was mustered, the rolls were called, 
Zanzibaris, Soudanese, Manynema, Egyptians, and their 
followers, and the natives were requested to walk all 
round the rude square, and point out the man who had 
entered their village to run amuck while the women were 
Dartering in the camp, and after going. searchingly 
ubout, five of them pointed at Fathel Mullah, As 
was not sufficient evidence even, the question was 
addressed to the Soudanese, and his comrade Surura 
stepped out and described the circumstance that a native 
tried to prevent him igh pot of mata, where- 
upon, calling him Abid and’ —slave and dog—he 
at him dead, and fired three or four times at o' 
indiscriminately. 

“The man is yours—you can take him; but if you 
will sell him for’ cattle, cloth, wire, beads, or anything 
else, I will buy him.” 

«No, no, no, no: we don't sell our people; not for a 
hundred cattle would we part with him.” 

“ But what good will his blood be to you? You can’t 
+ he will not work for you. Take five cattle for 


~~ 








CHIEF KAJOMBA. 417 


“No, no, no, no, We want him, for he has slain a 188), 
chief man in our village, and perhaps the others will die, “ 
alo, We will take him.” 

“Take him, then ; he does not belong to me, and has 
no tight in my camp.” 

He was marched away, and we never knew what 
became of him, 

On the next day we struck away more easterly from 
Lake Urigi, over rough stony ground, which was water= 
Jess and uninhabited, with numerous ant-hil 
with sickly and dwarfed bush, a thin forest of miserable 
acacia spreading out on either hand, leafless, decaying, 
and dead. Within two hours we reached the base of 
Unya-Matundu plateau, und, as the ieee ts yet 
carly, we ascended to the summit, 1,200 feet above Lake 
Urigi, travelled an hour over a rolling surface of 
pasture land, care eae fields and seattered 
settlements, and halted at Ngoti after four and a half 
hours’ mareh. 

Mwengi, the chief, was a eiguntic young Mbuma, tall 
asa guardaman, but quiet and possessed, and his people 
obeyed him with alacrity. We therefore halted to do a 
day's bartering, A fine bunch of bananas could be 
purchased for ten cowries, and as eight cowries con- 
stituted a day's ration allowance, no ane could possibly 
complain of insufficient food. 

An hour's march beyond Ngoti we began to descend. 
the eastern face of the plateau, and 900 feet below 
reached a rolling plain covered with leafless und sickly 
acacia, and were im the country of Uzinja. 

We halted after five hours in Kimwani or Kizinga— 
Chief Kajumba’s territory. The chief was another tall 
person of the Wahuma breed, at the time suffering from 
ophthalmia. When the Waganda invaded his territory 
a yeur ago he fled to Unya-Ruwambu, the Urigi district 
of Thangiro, and hid himself on an island in the lake, 
whence, after paying a tribute of cattle to Uganda, he 
was permitted to return to his own land as a subject 
of Mwanga, but to find his banana groves cut down 
and the land well cleaned of every product. For the 


VOU, aT 


ty 





418 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


propeation afforded him in his distress, Ihangiro claims 
* Kimwani as a district attached to it. Kassasura, 
King of Usui, having invaded Kimwani and captured 

Kajumba and held him a prisoner for two months, 
also lays claim to his allegiance. 

Kajumba was liberal to us, as he sent us cighty one 
bunches of bananas, one goat, and two pots of malua. 
‘As he was on the verge of senility, he was inclined to be 
despotic snd queralous, and it may be imagined that 
perhay 1 caravan would be differently treated. 

Accompanied by guides from Kimwani we set out 
southward, and three miles beyond Kajumba's we 
obtained a charming view of Lake Victoria and the 
islands Ikuta, Majinga, Soswa, Rumondo, and distant 
Mysomé, and near noon we camped at Nyamagoju, at 
the south-west extremity of an arm of the lake which 
receives the Lohugati, a periodical stream draining 
East Usui. 

The next day’s march was along a plain which 
extended from Nyamagoju to another lake arm, at 
whose extremity we camped at a village called 
Kisaho. Our route each day now was across flat 
extents of land, from which the Lake had within 
twenty-five years or so receded. They are covered 
over with low bush, which at this season is leafless. 
The ground is dry, streamless, hard-baked and cracked, 
and shows a nitrous efflorescence in many places, To 
our right, as the land rises, on ridges over fifty feet 
above the Lake, we find a thin dwarf forest ; at a hundred 
feet elevation we see respectable trees, and grasses 
become more nutritious. 

We cut across a broad cape-like formation of land 
and passed from the bay of Kisaho to a bay near Itari 
on the 20th, and from the summit of a high ridge near 
the latter place I perceived by compass bearings and 
solar observation, that we were much south of the 
south-west coast line, as marked on my map in “Through 
the Dark Continent.” From this elevated ridge could 
be seen the long series of islands overlapping one 
another, which, in our flight from the ferocious natives 


o ARYAN YRIOLMA IOIVT 40 MLIRGRELOE ALAN TLNOR 








‘A DISCOVERY. 2b 


of Bumbiré in 1875, without oars, had been left un- 
loreal and which, therefore, I had sketehed as main- 
a 


We find that the Wazinja call the Victoria Nyanza 
Muta Nzigé, aa the Wanyoro call the Albert Lake Muta 
Naigé, and the Wasongora and Wanyankori call the 
Albert Edward by the same name. 

On leaving Itari we were made aware of lions having 
paid the vicinity of our camp a visit by a dead zebra 
which had just been killed. We were also astonished at 
the number of human skulls about, and when we asked 
the guides the cause, we were informed that at Ttari the 
Wazinja endeavoured to oppose the Waganda during 
their late invasion, It may be that the Wazinja 
deserved the cruel visitation. Th is well known that 
Usui needs « lesion like it. ‘The last eaprice of Kasi 
suru has been to halt « caravan of 150 guns. 

As we reflected on the varions events which appear to 
have occurred in this region in 1887, the Waganda in 
force in Karagwé, audacious and insolent, and shooting 
Arab traders, and invading Uzinja, and from Rishakka 
to the Victoria Lake the land one seething area of 
strife and bloodshed, it struck us that the events of 
1888, the deposition of Mwanga, the revolution and 
counter-revolution, were simply clearing our track for a 
peaceful march to the sea. 

Tt became impressed on us as we travelled over these 
dry, waterless plains, with their nakedness scarcely 
hidden by dwarf aenoia, and hardy euphorbias, that the 
forest people were utterly unfit to be taken out of 
their arboreal homes. Half of thove who had aceom- 
panied us we had been obliged to leave behind, and yet 
there had been no want of either food or water. “In 
the same manner the Somalis, Soudanese, Madis, or 
Baris, when taken into the forest, soon became joyless, 
dull, and moping, and died. And yet I have read in 
affectedly learned books that Afrien was only fit for the 
Africans bo: Lalk 

‘To my great sueprise, and indood delight, the Lake 
extended to 2° 48' south latitude, which we ascertained 





i 








422 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 
on 


Eat eee Aeneas Oat Se The Habe oe 
tion reached since leavi amaagoju not 
Aemul bigher than 50 feet neva the Take, wile: inna 
ere oo ret pote Roe eee ee 

its waters, and until many a season 


By a gradual vise from Amranda southward we 
+ after a few miles out of the unlovely plains to 
land producing w better quality of timber. Before we 
were 100 feet above the Lakeu visible improvement had 
taken place, the acacia had disuppeared, and the 
myombo, a tree whose bark is useful for native cloth and. 
for boxes, and which might be adapted for canoes, 
Hourished everywhere. At Bwanga, the next rillsaey 
the language of the Wahuma, which we had 
continually since leaving the Albert Nyanga, ceases, 
and the Unyamwezi interpreters had now to be em- 
ployed, which fact the sceptical Zanzibaris hailed as 
evidence that we were approaching Prani (the 
const). 
And now we had to tam cast, straight for the 
Mission House, which we began to hear of as being in 
Usambiro, From Bwanga to Uyombi is a march of 
62 hours, thence another, Kamwaga, of 5 hours, 
thence to Umpeté, 5 hours, and from thence to the 
abandoned French Mission Station in Usxambiro in 
6 hours, Ty the centre of the circular palisade was a 
neat church, and above the roof of it was « simple cross, 
which instantly suggested Curr und Crytiizarton, 
words and thoughts to which I fear most of us 
been strangers for many months, 

The French Missionaries, we must admit, are not to 
be excelled in the urt of building Stations and developing 
au appearance of comfort and prettiness out of the: 
most unpromising materials. ‘Those who have travelled 
the last three or four hundred miles with us will have 
ween that I have been almost indifferent to the face 
the land, We had traversed it during the dry season, 
when it is difficult to find one acre out of a million 


—— | 






MACKAY'S MISSION HOUSE 423 


worth looking at, and yet equal to the unloveliest of all _18ag, 
was that occupied by this handsome Mission Station, ‘se % 
There were three rows of low earth-covered structures, “Me 
forming three sides of u spacious square, and in each 
row were four or five chambers neatly plastered within 
and without with grey clay. Midway between the 
houses were the church, excellently built out of materiala 
in the vicinity: an inner circle of palisades surrounded 
the civilized quarters, and an outer circle protected the . 
village of the proselytes. Nothing could be better, 
considering that the myombo forest close by, and the 
aoil around thera, furnial ed the materials, than the plan 
and execution of it, One realised how patiently and 
with what love they must have laboured. There were 
two faults in the place, however, which, had their faith 
not been so great, they would have known before 
building. The natives were cantankerous, hurd-hearted, 
worldly Wanyamwezi, and there was no water, 
before they had quite completed the Station, the signal 
for retreat and abandonment was given, 

The next day, having already sent messengers ahead, 
that we might not take Mr. Mackay, of the Chureh 
Missionary Society, by surprise, we arrived in view of 
the English Mission, which was built in the middle of 
what appeared to be no better than a rey on 
pa gently pel) from curious heaps of big 
locks thrown higgledy-piggledy 
Pe the height of a respectable hill down ne ua on 
lat green with its dense crops of papyrus, beyon: ic] 
we saw a gleam of a line of water produced from an 
inlet of the Victoria Nyanza. We were approaching the 
Mission by a waggon track, and presently we eame to 
haw acai Gantt wail bia ea eertiea aan 
carrsigu tints ree] aa linac aca eae CURR ere 
thing in view except in the marsh; the aspect was 
cheerless and melancholy, grass all dead, trees either 
shrunk, withered, or dead, at least there was not, the 

ise. of a bud unywhere, which was of course entirely 

due to the dry season, When we were about half a mile 
off « gentleman of «mall stature, with a rich brown beard 


logs of hard timber, there were great 

le poles, in « corner of an outer yard was a o 

nd a goat-pen, fowls by the scoré pecked at mict 
seopie grains, and out of the European quarter 
fcpuped out waanibecoe ii talberwant Gisoee 
uncommonly sleek and happy; and quiet lal 
came up to bid us, with hats off, “Good M 
Now if there is anything on God's earth better 
lated than work to make men happy, it must be 
some peculiar dispositions the knowledge that 
ae is sate lence, ape entered ee Mi 

louse my soul was possessed with some such feelin 
thia; at any rate before my mission was terminated: 
welvome we received promised rest and relief. 
I was ushered into the room of a subst 
structure, the walls about two feet thick, event 
plastered, and garnished with missionary pictures and 
placards, There were four separate ranges of shelves 
















BOOKS IN CENTRAL AFRICA. 2 


filled with choice, useful books, “Allah ho Akbar,” 
Praese Hassan, his Zanzibari head-man, to me ; “books | 4 
lackay has thousands of books, in the dining-room, 
bedroom, the church, everywhere. Books! ah, tee 
upon loads of them!” And while [was lita He 
coffee, and eating home-made bread and b ir the 
first time for thirty months, L thoroughly aympathised 
with Mackay’s love of books, But it Te bape quite 
clear why, amongst 40 many books, and ohtldren and 
outdoor work, Mackay cannot find leisure to brood and 
become morbid, and think A “drearinesses, wildernesses, 
despair and loneliness,” or writer lately wrote a 
book about a man aan 4 much time in Africa, 
which from beginning to se a long-drawn wail. Tt 
would have cured both writer and hero of all moping to 
have seen the manner of Mackay's life. He hax no time 
to ie and groan and weep, and God knows if ever 
man reason to think of “ graves and worms and 
villvion? “and to be doleful and lonely and sad, Mackay 
had, when, after murdering his Bishop, and burning, his 
et ipils, and strangling his converts, and clubbing to 
leath his dark friends, Mwanga turned his eye of death 
on him. And yet the little man met it with culm 
blue eyes that never winked. To see one mun ee this 
kind, working day after day for twelve years brn 
and without 4 ayl lable of complaint or a moan amid Tie 

“ wildernesses,” and to hear him lead his little flock to 
show forth God's loving kindness in the morning, and 
His faithfulness every night, is worth going a long 
journey, for the moral courage and contentment that one 
derives from it. 

We stayed at the Mission Station from the 28th of 
August to the morning of the 17th of September, and 
‘on the Europeans of the Expedition the effect of regular 
diet and well-cooked food, of amiable society and 
perfect restfulness, was marvellous, 

We were rich in goods of all kinds, for in Mr. 
Mackay's keeping since Mr. Stokes brought them from 
the const in 1888, we possessed about 200 loads of 
bulky currency and forty loads of preserved provisions. 








aie 
Sartori 
Nynoen. 


| 





| a | 


438 IN DARKEST APRIC. 


1 ‘Thirty loads of cloth were instantly distributed among 
* 496% the people on account, at cost price, that each man might 
Xyuu! make amends during our rest for any late privations. 
We had also fonrteen  pack-donkeys, which were 
delivered to the Pasha's followers, and the Pasha, 
Casati, and myself, were able to purchase riding asses 
from the French Missionaries at Bukumbi, who were 
good enough to visit us with valuable gifts of garden 








THEW POM SHACHAY'S sttenON, LAKE VHeyONIA C/rom a pholegraphe 


produce. From their stores our officers were enabled to 
Turehase very necessury outfits, such as boots, slippers, 
shirts, and hats, which made them presentable once 
more 

We were also able to obtain about twenty carriers, to 
assist in the © of goods, that more of our 
Zonzibaria might be detailed for hammock service ; and 
yet aft stay of nineteen days, with as much food aa 
they could eat, and as great a variety as the country— 








a A 


A SUMPTUOUS DINNER. 429 


by no means badly stocked—eould pevvide, when 
they were mustered for the march the day before apie 
leaving Makolo's, there were over one hundred le who Vietorim 
complained of asthma, chest, spleen, liver, or lumbar %I# 
pains, and declared they could not travel. 

The evening before the day we resumed our ji 
for the sea Mackay and Deokes, the only two 
members of the Mission at present at Makolo’s ue lesars. 
Gordon and Walker having just departed for Uganda 
before we arrived) gave us a sumptuous dinner, roast 
beef, roast. fowl, stews, rice and curry, plam-padding, 
and a bottle of medical wine. And as is the custom in 
civilised lands, speeches terminated the banquet. It fell 
to my share to propose the health of Emin Pasha, and 
to Mr. Mackay to propose mine, and there was no 
member then present who was not the recipient of most 
friendly wishes on the part of everybody else, delivered, 
as I thoroughly believe, in perfect sincerity. 


‘The last lelter from Mu. A. ML. MACKAY. 
 Waamntno, 


January Sth, 1800. 
“My vent pean Sim 

““Thave no Teas tann three valuable letters from you, vi, two dated 
Urougo, and ene fom Ugg, ‘Tho tant arrived lene on Tat Decem bee 


Fronch priate used thin way to overake your. 7 

hare nok cea of foot to Foe coma e 
“Lyne most pleased to hear of your sal + and doubt. 
owe yom are, by thin time, comfortably housed in civilized territory, and 
‘a more than wollearned rest after the fatigos jong of 
African travel. Tf any mus morite tho congratulations of Europe, 
certainly yon do, But you will likely eoon te sick of every" 


hang skoat hyeally aod montaly--aRor you 
ang abont thin phyxically nnd swontally-—aftor you left, poor 
wikbot sayings the lecketcor pull did nat Coney aly the 
Foturnod frvin Kisokwé, on October ind, without any letters frou the 
cont, Although an Decomber Int wo got a batsh of letters, but no 
fmpern or migarinon. ‘These il eome sme 





lied. 
on October 20th. ‘Tho others, eight im number, huve wll fully rocovured, 


‘und are at work, 
Thave fitted sxteamn ongine, and find puny » and also 
riveted’ the bolle onter sl a frente baler a bec 





IN DARKEST AFRICA, 






nd A Feder tone ee EE to eco 
other lading panting 

"You ‘wil have herd that the Christians 
defeated Kalema and his Arab party, Senge ee 
throne, ‘They have taken porenion. inh ‘then 
telves, equally dividing ther bet ‘oman Catholos andthe 
Trotestants, Au active young fel) agwa Apollo, a pupil of 
iy own, in uow the Kater, 

a tn alt wr in the hands of new Chrixtian chiefs, and. 

do not scam lixcly to. allow him to “own way any more 
Five of the Frenchmen, inelwdir hors sare how there, our 
ion i repented only fon, 

Saat Petras ore ane the tne ae! 
m cae ees 
ec Te bein ti my joy will 
ee your put their affairs on a sound 

1 yar ‘Mr. Mackint pee! 
weave i bave a expla 
ing tho at ity of thelr Seal to the 
boundary-line wert of thin Lake, along: of 8, we that 
wouh! ent the kingdom of Buganda ives ; for 
‘Usui, and Uxinja, a far routh ae Serombo, are shoal perch 
being tributary to it. No poner iitation, rade tn or Me 
fan Srerrounvs Lies suales hose tieteslleponoe io Dagan aa 

matter, Tho only fair 


foro, there, need be little Jealousy about the i. 

boundary-line that I can seo would bo from thix end of the long crake 

(Genith Bound) diagonally AV. to ho intareection of tho dth, peal 
to Bikani on 





With the 82ad degree of B. long, and thon wtewight wat ‘the 
Tonganika, 

“Many ehiel to the 8.W. have been visiting hom oud 
others «nding; and 1 mean to send there letters their way to a 


the wretehed Nindo people are too grasping for any tuste, 


“Theat, on good authority, that the Kanyoro, whos you fought, were 
not a chance raiding gang, init Kabba-Roga's awn army, which bé sent 
‘exprosly to chosk your udvance, Fle wan 40 terrified at the defeat of hit 
trop that he took rofige on an island in the Atbort Lake, Mwanga 
sont hero a duputation, » month after you left, craving your nvafatance. 

“Tho Arabs sco now complotoly discomflted, and here fled from 
Nay. Said bin Saif (Kipanda) how, with a eargoof guns and hogs of 
powder, wan captured by Mwangn's people, and the veal dextrayed, 
Sungorw’s likewise. Stokes’ boat is, at this moment, the oaly one om the 
Take. The Kiewnor I have ent up, ax being too rotton for further wet but 
hope soon to Inuuch tho other boat, which may do good wersice ti K got 
the stoam launch afloat. 

F hyve no defiuite news of the const. Lowly heart of thexe-establish= 
wont of the Gurmans at Mywapwa. Surely, they will learn wisdom i 


- ai 


























LAST LETTER PROM MACKAY, 8b 
bei a pion Tonly hope 
inh will keop the guupowder out. In no other way 
‘ty over te able to cece Sag contol "en the oka ithe 
To be, oF not to be; that is the question,’ Is It to be a tek to the 
Lake or not? 1 aoe In you the. Sal ove or Shir glen. ia yous 
gxting Be Mackinnn tic he raster fn ie roe ght T would 
Mot gia spear a in come, 
Frctag sy ee since tae Bi 
pe oe : aioatio 
alle for nent Rake” "Thope it wil eae ts arin eft 
Sir vatue 8 contin sewer fea farms 
“With vory best winhor, 
* Dlievo mo ever, 
© My dene Bir, 
Yours faithfully, 


one eeataee (Bigned) “A.M, Mackay. 

‘To my great grief, I learn that Mr, Mackay, the best 
missionary since Livingstone, died about the beginning 
of Febraary. Like Trin tone, he declined to return, 
though I strongly urged him to accompany us to the 
oust, 


ih 














482 IN DARKESY APRICA. 





CHAPTER XXXY. 
FROM THE VICTORIA NYANZA TO ZANZIBAR. 


Missionary work along the shores of the Vietoria Xyauuz and nlong: the 
‘Gongy ives road, fem Mackay Mision = 


—Considorable ditficnlty at the at 
eee oe eee 
ee eee ee 
‘The natives follow ue from Nera to Suki—We enter the di of 

* friendship botween ond our men—Continned 


Tk We mect ono of ‘i 
sungu—We ‘ono 
"Sohal 


—Livut. 





ay 

of the alt Esp DrcTIb ages a ber a 
arya—Tho Conval its me an. Injunction 

‘Taryu—At Cairo Cond oe ae 


two, [7 is fifteen years ago thia month since I first saw this 
Sr 1% Victorian Sea, and launched my boat on its waters, and 
Xpim. sailed along the shores, peering into the bays and creeks, 
and mapping out the area. Six months later those two 
journals, the “Daily ‘Telegraph " and “New York Herald” 


= — 














A RETROSPECT. 483 


published the fact to every person who could afford the _ uso 
Salt sun ofine poo,’ thet a6 eestreh lake ree 
Africa had been exp! and that at the north end of yyansa. 
the Lake there was an African King ruling three millions 
of cleanly Levy who cried oub that he was in darkness 
and required light. And some good men heard the ery, 
and responded to it nobly. They sent missionaries to 
the King, and for years they taught him and his 
peoples af firat with Tintle success, but by-wnd-by some 

i seed fell upon good soil, and it took root and 
flourished, and despite the taree and the thistles und 
rank grasses that grew in the virgin soil, there was a 
good harvest, 

Tn turning towards the sea, the thought came across 
my mind that elaewhere on the Congo, for 1400 miles 
from the western ocean, it had been permitted to me 
to flout the steamers along that river, and build the 
Stations on its banks, which in 1887 were to be of great 
service to me to carry myself and my followers ong 
the great river, and to offer shelter where we shoul 
meet with welcome and hospitality in the same manner, 
as this Missionary Station, which we were about to leave, 
had received us in 1889 with honour and regard. 
‘Traly 1 felt inclined to use the metaphor of the Preacher, 
and to admit that the bread I had east npon the waters: 
hud returned to me abundantly after many days. 

I do not propose to linger long over the lands inter- 
vening between Lake Victoria and Bagamoyo. I have 
already described them, and it is needless to repeat 
what is already written. 

‘The road from Mackay's Mission takes a south-casterly 
direction in order to cross the little stream, which as it 
approaches the creck at the south-eastward of Lake 
Victoria forms a swamp about five yards wide, Tt then 
turns northerly, rams parallel with the creck a little 
way, and then strikes casterly over a low plain, where 
the soil seems to he so poor ns to grow a not much 
higher than rock moss ‘The 500 yarda wile swamp 
reminded me that the Freuch missionaries, since their 
settlement near the Lake at Bukurbi, have ascertained 

vol IL 28 





a 





IN DARKEST AFHICA, 


138 
ass), that the Lake is now three feet lower than when they 
first settled here—that is about eleven years a 
is no longer an island but is a peninsula. If 
this he true, and is no reason to doubr it, and | 
assuming that the decrease of the Lake has been uniform, 





over 40,000 square miles in extent, It covers now, by: 

this last discovery at the south-western extremity of the 

ax new as Tam uble to measure it 26,900 square 
miles. 

The ay nce of the country at Gengé, which had 

i mppearan0s a any nt Sele 


missionaries 
Usumbiro. They did not reflect that the more 

a district in Usukuma, or Unyamweai is, it 

Teas tenable to poor missionaries, that the taxes, demands, 
and blackmail of the headstrong and bumptious chief 
would soon he so onerous that starvation be 
imminent and the oppression unbearable, 

As, for instance, we reached Tkoma on the 20th, At 
Gengé and at Kungu we hed considerable difficulty in 
preserving the peace. The path was beset by how! 
mobs, who came up dancing and uttering war-eries. 
This mattered very little, but some demon of a youth 
was mischievous enough to push both parties into a 
wordy war about whether we were cannibals or not 
They took the cicatrices on the Soudanese’s features aa 
proof thut they were maneaters, and mancaters had no 
‘business in their country, But while something like a 
camp was being formed, though bush was scarce, 

ass was not to be discovered, there came « follower of 
the Egyptians, « sinister-looking object; an arrow had 
pierced his arm, his head was gashed with an axe; he 
had been robbed of his clothes and allowance of cloth at 
Zanzibar, and his rifle. Two words were a 

to have amply revenged him. We pocketed it, and 
many another insult that day, and the next we marched 








THE SOUDANESE TAKEN FOR MAN-RATERS, 435 


to Tkoma, the residential distriet of the chief, and natu- 19s. 
ah being the seat of power, it was four times more “2: 
milous. 

TT ar teats isc wee very simple, Mr. Mackay 

had informed us that Mr. Stokes, the English ivory 
trader, had a station there, that the pri chief, 
Mulissa, i his friend, und that wt this Sane Mr. 
Stokes had a suj of European provisions—biscuits, 
butter, ham, ea Hi an a he rate ‘to dispose of. 

Well, we were ten Europeans in number, — one of 
whom was blessed with devouring appetites. We 

to call that way and purchase them at any cost, and 

Mr. recat furnished us with two Zanzibari guides, 
‘Therefore, though the Kungu natives had been ger 

ously insolent, we thought that at Malisea’s, the friend 

of Stokes, we should be asked to overlook the mutter, ax 

heing mere noisy ebullitions of a few intructable youths. 

Before us, in the centre of a plain which three or four 
centuries ago, perhaps, was covered with the waters of 
Luke Vietoria, there rose what must have heen once a 
hilly island, but now the soil had been pesesiy 
scottred away, and left the frame of the island only in 
ridges of grey gueissic rock, and ruined heaps of mono- 
liths and boulders and vast rock fragments, and under 
the shadow, and between these in narrow levels, were 
grouped a population of about 5000 people; and within 
sound of maar or blare of horn, or ringing eries, 
were congeries of hamleta out on the plain round about 
this natural fortress, and each hamlet surrounded by 
its own milk-weed hedge. In the plain west of the 
isleted rock-heaps, | counted twenty-three separate herds: 
of cattle, besides flocks of sheep and its, and we 
concluded that Tkoma was prosperous, and secure in its 
vast population and its impregnable rock-piles. 

Aw we drew near there came scores of sleek und merry 
youths and girls, who kept Inughing and giggling and 
romping about us like healthy, plas ‘onng creatures, 
enjoying their youth and life. We travelled up a «moth 
ensy’ pass flanked by piles of rocks rising to 200 feet 
above us, which narrowed somewhat as we approached 


| 


i 


E 
: 


Hut 


We clothed him in fine cloths, and sent hi 
tell Malissa that we were white men, friends 





A RIGHT WITH THE WASURUMA, 487 


that we had many Wasukuma porters in our caravan, _ 1899, 
and that we-bad wo intention of fighting” anybody, bug: 
of going to the coast a8 quickly as ral The chief 
was escorted within a quarter of a mile of Malissa's 
village, und released. He did not return, but during 
the day there were several efforts made to annoy us, 
until at 4PM, from the north, east and south, appeared 








ROCK MMKLLS, URASEDIDO, 





three separate multitudes, for a great effort. It was 
then the machine-gun was prepared, 

The Wasukuma swayed closer up, but ewutiously, and, 
it appeared to me, reluctantly. im front of the mob 
coming from the south were several skirmishers, who 
pranced forward to within 300 yards, One of the 
skirmishers wax dropped, and the machine showered 
about a hundred and fifty rounds in their direction, 


should make another trial to cause them 
fierce rancour, and we sent Poli-Pol 
eae, to ae to Bie Poli 

, gently.” a hour's 
rico am 


























































































































‘OUR EXPRRUIENCRS IN USUKUMA. 


A TREACHEROUS CHIEF. 441 


cutting out some cloth for them, as an earnest of our 
intentions, the Wasukuma had been allowed to approach, 
The Monangwa, and his friends had left my tent nbout 
five minutes, perfectly satisfied apparently, when 1 
heard abont fifty rifle shots fired in volleys, Running 
out I found that the enemy was right us One 
of our men was dying from a spear wound, our gouta 
were in full flight, being driven nway on the run, the 
bottom of the nullah was covered with leaping forms, 
We had a very narrow escape from serious loss; bat 
seven natives were killed within ten yards of the any 
the treacherous Monangwa received a bullet in the 
shoulder and Jost his cloth, and we recovered our 


ts. 
Oe marched on the next morning at the usual hour; 
the Villages were arranged on each aide of our track in 
one continued eeries, and the population of & Nera 
turned out en masse. But the natives confined them- 
selves to following us in a dense column stretching for 
quite two miles, every now and then firing at us from 
heavily loaded muskets. For three hours we continued 
in this manner, until as we were about leaving Nera, and 
entering Mamara, they uttered a series of war-cries, and 
made another effort, Dropping our loads we raced 
towards them, and in a minute's time they were on the 
full trot in retreat. We lifted our loads and resumed 
our journey; but the natives presently re-collected, and. 
followed us on the flanks as far ns Seké—u fatiguing 
march of six hours, 

On the 23rd we proceeded from N, Seké to Seke 
Kwikuru, or Seke the capital, vast crowds hanging on 
our flanks as betore. Thongh we knew that trifling 
mercies, such as we were able to show, seldom made 
any impression on tribes quivering under extraordinary 
excitement and rage for battle, nevertheless we ab- 
stained from needleesly angmenting this causelese 
madness against us, aad only hulted a few minutes to 
repel rus 

‘e wore all in aid want of water and rest, Our 
cattle and riding animals had not been watered for two 


sect, 
Teoma, 


i 











44a IN DARKEST AFRICA, | 
sso. days, and at Seké the water was brackish and 
fv The aun was at its hottest. Our faces were and 


SH cracking, The grass was 0 short that the eattle were 
| iia ‘apon Che sie foo ai Soar 


they di and we were left to enjoy the first rest 
guined seven days’ continuous travel and. fighting. 

Entering Sinyanga on the 25th, we were welcomed 
with “lu-lutus” by the women, and as they had heard 
all about our“ little war” with Usukuma, every elder we 
met expressed a hope that we had cleared the wicked: 
people out, for they were always a cursed lot, bothering 
travellers and stran, 

As we marched from one district. to another, 
each independent from the other, governed by. ite own 
chief and council of elders, exclusive from its own 

nliar customs, habits, or passion, varying differentl 
Rom the other according to the age, intelligence, 
disposition of the chief, our duties and rale of eonduet 
varied. We moved through petty spheres, wherein our 
duties varied according to the demands mude upom ws. 
Here was the small district of Sinyanga with « In 
tion not exeeeding 2000, The chief and his eee 
wereas proud of their little stateas any monateh and hia 
senate might be of an empire. The chief was conscious 
of weakness, and that imprudent ‘iveness would 

wove speedy ruin; but he exacted his dues all the sume. 

e pai them freely and with kindly words. ‘The chief 
reciprocated the kindness, returned # gift to mark his 
pleasure, then his people flocked to the camp to 
exchange their grain and produce for cloth und beads, 
during which many a friendship and brotherly aet was 
formed between the natives and our men, 

Ju Urima and Nera again, even on its frontiers, te 
pounced down on ws like wolves, with war-ories 
insulting by-plays Our flanks were thronged with 
hooting warriors und jeering youths and fleering girls; 
they annoyed us by gestures, wounded our sense of 
hearing by shrill insolent screams and savage taunts, 


| 








OARACTERISTICS OF THE NATIVES, HS 
do 


All this may be borne with equanimity. Words do _ us 
not hart, but it makes us circumspect and reticent, ®t 
ee ee ee eel know “se 
lusty legs it tents, 
flourish their weapons, flow their ahrill war-futes, and 
artfully pursue a cunning system of unnoyunce. 
this is due to the belief that our forbearance means 
fear, They look around and see their numbers four- 
fold more than our own, ‘They whisper to. one another 
like village louts and bullies, * What a py, that we 
can't kick up a row. Ab, if there was, 1 would soon 
make myself master of that cloth, or that gun, or the 
things in those boxes, &e., &e.” The chief is carried 
away by this consuming desire, and relying upon the 
assurances that it would be an easy matter to make a 
row and find an excuse, he commits himself to some 
imprudent scheme, and, when too late, mourna the 
failure but not the event, They cannot plead ignorance 
us the new tribes can. Fifteen years ago I travelled 
through Usukuma, paying no more than ten or twelve 
cloths to any chief, and receiving a pot ox or a couple: 
of youts in return, Since that time, however, missioui 
after missionary, both English and Frenelt, and Ar) 
caravans have made Usukuma a highway to the 
Victoria Lake. The tributes have been raised by the 
chief to 300 doti—£90 per petty district, To threo 
petty districts the French missionaries were compelled 
to pny 900 doti of cloth—£270. £270 sterling on three 
days’ journey} ‘These cloths will purchase guns which 
will make them still more formidable to missionaries, 
and the result will be in a few years that a small tribal 
chief will demand every serap of cloth in the caravan, 
and will halt it until it is paid, na Usni stopped a 
caravan of 150 guns, 

Khambi Mbya—a nickname of an Arab who camped 
in Nera two years ago—wasa homeward bound from 
Uganda with his ivory. The tribute had been paid, A 
little personal dispute followed soon after between a 
woman of the camp, and a herdsman at a pool, as to 
whether the woman should take water first, or the 


il 


i 








4 IN DARKEST AFRICA, 


iene, cattle, The herdsman raised the war-ery, which 
fit2% sulted in the massacre of every man, woman, ‘child 
| Sore” in the caravan. 

Messrs. Ashe and Walker, ©.MS, missionaries, were 
seized, Tam told, by one of Cie oe 
tained until they wore mom Mr. 
who is compelled by his enelisras in i 
like many an Arab trader before him, ig 
long-snffering, must have experienced many 
moments when he saw his carriers dropping their 
and flying before a noisy mob of bullies, 
missionaries have ubundoned Usambiro Station, and 
taken their residence in Bukumbi, Mr, Mackay has 
left Mealala, and built a station at Makolo’s. these 
natives possessed any sense, or could have been touched 
by shame after being so generously treated and. 
honoured by these missionaries, they would not drive 
them away by extortion and oppression, 

On the dth of October we arrived at Stokes’ boma, ‘ay 
the country of his friend Mittinginya. 
capital lies about three-fourths of a mile to the 
east, and is a square enclosure of wattle and mud, 
Bullets might be rained against the walla for weeks 
without disastrous effects to those within, and provided: 
the defenders had fuel, food, and water sufficient, und 
were properly vigilant, ‘these fort-like structures would 
be impregnable except against cannon. The district of 
Usongo, of which Mittinginya is chief, is studded 
thickly with these structures, and excepting the stul pan =) 
old baobab no bush or plant obstructs the view between 
each tembé, 

‘The chief has the faculty of getting embroiled with 
his neighbours, or his neighbours must be nnusually 
quartelsome, or they mutually suffer from an innate 
restlessness which drives them one against the other 
with angry muskets. To the north is a chief called 
Simba, to the west he has the people of Uyogu, hebind 
these he has Kapera und his allies the Watuta or Wan 

ni,—Equatorial Zulus; to the south the predatory 

Wataturu, descendants of Somalis; to the north-east 


—— | 





A HOkDE OF WILD MASAI Ho 


Wandui ; and we pein stumbled into this hornets 
nest of an; tribes, led to do it by reports of Mittin- 
ginya’s nature, and i 2 the pel og that we should be 
sble to obtain a few our ever-wailing: 
tian, 

‘a emphasize the visible unrest here, the chief tor 
invited « horde of wild Masui from the district of Ly 
west of Kilima-Njaro, to assist him in his parca 
projects, ‘The Masai had already distinguished. them- 
selves against the Watuta- Zils: the Wanduis had 
Become as dumbdogs, | Secs quit strangers owning 
donkeys, the Mani quietly mude themselves muaters 
of four, which however they were compelled to return, 
and after eight days’ halt we were able to leave Stokes's 
friend with his hornets humming round him, with 
twenty fresh carriers to carry the uleerons Egyptians 
without Dest maples in uny feud. 

On the 17th we entered Hcungu, where we were over- 
taken by two French missionaries, Peres Giranlt and 
Schintze,* who were invalids—it was said, homeward 
bound and were desirous of availing themselves of our 
escort to the sea, 

Around the milk-weed hedges that surrounded the 
chief's village were over # hun human skulls, while 
innumerable fragrents atrewed the vicinity. Inquiring 
what calamity hat occurred, 1 was told they were the 
remains of a tribe of Wanyatura, over 400 strong, who 
had fled to Tkungn frem Ituru, in the hope of parine 
themselves from famine. What articles they he 


acknowledged tho kindness be roo0ived, ita, T Fogret to 
say, assumed quite a hostile tone. We ‘rece! ‘vith pet arm, 
{ev appli thenn nnd tie poplo with zn ration duly uo the coat, 

Battal: to a. gos hay Ser oat to 
Motect nares paso a bar, and the Beitish 
ComtarcGeneral, Go. fan Bathe boroured tam with thn Kinde 


* While the French priest Paro cient has sod and privately 
Tee un 


und ‘ 
te made ty our ofers ou the sharicar of the oe whieh Emin’ 
iene fer a fool timbre nth" iuprosionn 
received from this person have thus been fully verified, 


oa 


Uwomgye 


MS) 











8 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


awe. brought with them were soon sold for food which 

Ot. consumed, and then they sold their children and 

ther Wives, and when they had nothing left they died. The 
children were of mulatto colour, and very superior to the: 
sable urchins of Unyamwesi. 

We met a caravan from Zanzibar at this place be~ 
longing to Tippu-Tib, and the Manyuema 
the coast war between the Germans and Arabs 
was still proceeding, but that the Germans had com- 
menced to be victorious. 

‘On the 26th we entered Muhalala, and by the 8th of 
November we had through Ugogo. ‘There is no 
Scene eae t has excited greater interest in me 
than this, It is a ferment of trouble and distraction, 
aud a yermin of petty annoyances beset the travellers 
from day to day while in it. “No natives know so well 
how to aggrieve and be unpleasant to travellers. One 
would think there was a achool somewhere in U; 
te teach low cunning and vicious malice to the ail 
who are masters in foxy-craft. Nineteen years ago T 
looked at this land and people with desiring eyes. 
aaw in its field worth some effort to reclaim. In six 
months I felt sure Ugoge could be made lovely and 
orderly, a blessing to the inhabitants and to strangers, 
without any very great expense or trouble; it would 
become a pleasant highway of human intercourse 
with faraway peoples, productive of wealth ta the 
natives, and comfort to caravans, I learned on arrival 
in Ugogo that I was for ever debarred from the hope. It 
is to be the destiny of the Germans to carry out thi 
work, and Tenvy them, — It is the worst news of all that 
LT shall never be able to drain this cesspool of iniquivous 
passion, and extinguish the insolence of Wagogo chiefs, 
and make the land clean, healthy, and even beautiful of 

While my best: wishes will accompany German 
efforts, my mind is clouded with a doubt that it ever 
will be that fair land of eat and welcome I had dreamed 
of making it. 

Two days beyond Ugogo we entered the German 
Station of Mpwapwa, and were welcomed by Lieutenant 








ll _ — 


THE * WEEKLY TIMES’ AND IT8 ANNALS. 447 


Rochus Schmidt, who had arrived about a month pre- 
vious, eseorted by Major Wiseman, who was said to be 
the Imperial Commissary of German East Africa, He 
had alrendy erected a stone breastwork around his little 
camp, which contained 100 Zulus, ona commanding 
bat windy spot that must needs be fatal to many a 
white officer whose misfortune it may be to be ap- 
pointed Military Commandant of Mpwapwa. 

The Rey. Mr. Price puid us a visit, and among other 
benefits resulting from his we we obtained a 
year’s issue of the ‘Weekly Times.’ In turning over 
the pages of the voluminous history of the past year, T 
was impressed by nothing more thun by the smoothness 
and easy groove in which events were running, without 
jar or ‘sensible vibration. The hum of their travel 
aeemed to be like that which we hear on a drowsy 
summer's day at a country house in England, remote 
from the roll of street traific und the thundering rush 
of expres ting A distant ronrmaring. sound of ral 
way Waggons gliding over a pair of rails impresses the 
dull ear, amid the quiet and repose, that the world is 


con 
Ort 26, 


png. 


spaanig sufely along without mek or tear. England” 


was still at anchor amidst the silver seas; the Empire 
was where it ought to be; Europe was amusing herself 
with peaceful drill, and America was gathering her 
splendid harvests, and filling the ‘Treasury cellars with 
gold ingots and silver bricks. 

On the 13th, accompanied by Lieutenant Schmidt, the 
Expedition, about 700 strong, moved from Mpwapwa 
towards the coast. and five days later exchanged the 
parched aspect of the thorny wilderness of the interior 
for one that was fragrant with the perfume of lilies, 
and pleasant with the verdure of spring. After a two 
hours’ march from Muini Usagara, we defiled out of the 
Mukondokwa Valley, and emerged into the plain of 
the Makata, the sight of which, with its green grass and 
picasa mae trees and many groups of villages, after 
four months of droughty views, roused the enthusiasm of 
each of our officers, A Péve from the French Mission 
near Ferahani, established near the base of the mountaina, 


fi 


ales 





THE PASHA AND THE FRENCH MISSIONARIES. 449 


I had been introduced by a Canon of Westminster 
Abbey to a well-known bishop—as one who had done 
some good work on the Cate, The bi hesitated 
a minute, and then said blandly, “ Ah, 

interesting | But pray tell me where i 
sometimes laymen were found to be as ignorant of 
Africa a8 bishops, as for instance the British Cabinet 
Minister, who, receiving a commercial deputation from 
Manchester, relating to some grievances on the Niger, 
calmly pointed the speaker to a map of Africa, a 
asked him to be good enough to show the river in 
which the great eity of Manchester appeared to be 
#0 interested. & 

On the 27th we arrived at Ungerengeri, and for the 
first time we received a few letters, ee hod any 
such fatality attended mails in Africa as had attended 
ours. Three several times T had requested our friends 
to despatch our letters to Msalala, south end of Luke 
Victoria, bearing legibly u superseription to the effect 
that they were “to be left until called for.”  Bushela 
of mails had been sent, and every fe but one, 
containing three letters, had been lost in Unyoro, 
Uganda, and Bushiri, an’ opponent of Major Wissman, 
had pees others, ae fae 

ony many newspaper clippings received, waa one 
which was a tissue of ised ort Te ay 
have been sent from Zanzibar by a native clerk in a 
telegram. It read as follows ; 








= 


co Vie tick 
men and forty-four rifles Ms the sick had died 8! after 
Mitel atited and. tort away sin Stanley waa reported & have 
‘edger and want of food. "Later Stamey 
caine himself, Ein Pasha is to be in Unyara, north-caot of 
Lake Vi fteon days’ march. Stanloy having map pi ag 


men who Wore left, seturnod to Eiin after having given & 
‘writer to convey to'tho Agent-General of the Company.” 


he prdcin of the intelligence reosived having been 

doctored by a writer at Zanzibar, rendered the message 

still more unintelligible. The intelligence was received 
vou, 1, 29 


ite 


| 


450 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


1880, at Zanzibar by an agent of the ivory raider, Ugarrowwa, 
Nor. 27. and was intended to read thus : 
Ungerer 
= 
“Stanley has arrived on the Ituri (River). He proceeded on his way 
to Lake ‘Albert after leaving fifty-six sick men and forty-four rifles with 
me. Most of these sick men died a short time afterwards, 
“ Mazings (Lieut, Stairs) came here and took away the rifles. I was 
informed that Stanley suffered serious losses from sickness and famine. 
Finally Stanley came here in person. 
“Emin Pasha is. reported to be in Unyoro, north-east, a fifleen-days’ 
march from here (Ugarrowwa's Station). Stanley having picked up all 
‘the men who were left (of the rear column), returned to Emin, having 
given a letter to me to give the Consul-General. (Ugarrowwa was 
anxious to obtain a letter of introduction to the Consul, he being known 
at Zanzibar as Uledi Balyuz, or the Consul’s Uledi, in contradistinction 
to other Uledis, who are as common as Smiths in England.”) 


What with atrocities on the Aruwimi; Stanley's 
death by seventeen arrows; communications from an 
officer of the Congo Free State ; letters from missionaries 
and engineers; Osman Digna’s report of the capture 
of Emin Pasha and another white man ; invasions of 
the Soudan by a white Pasha, &c., there is a good 
reason why English editors should be not a little 
perplexed: However, “ All is well that ends well.” 

hile halting at Msua, the Baron von Gravenreuth 
arrived, with 100 soldiers. The Baron is a dashing 
soldier, fond of the excitement of battle-strife, and in his 
attacks on the zeribas of the coast Arabs has displayed 
considerable skill. It was most amusing to hear him 
remind me how he had once applied to me for advice 
respecting equipment and conduct in Afriea, and thet 
I had paternally advised him to read ‘The Congo and 
the Founding of its Free State, “an advice—I may 
tell you now—I followed, and I am glad of it.” 

Soon after appeared two correspondents of American 
newspapers, one of whom was Mr. Thomas Stevens, and 
the other Mr. Edmund Vizetelly, representing the ‘ New 
York Herald.’ The last-named gentleman brought us 
quite a number of well-selected articles for personal 
comfort and some provisions, by request of Mr. James 
Gordon Bennett, the proprietor of the Journal in whose 
service I had undertaken two previous expeditions into 
Africa, and had accompanied Sir Robert Napier into 


is Vass av anabave 





AMERIOAN NEWSPAPERS. 458 


Abyssinia in 1867 and 1868, and Sir Gurnet Wolseley 
into Ashantee in 1873 and 1874. 

Two marches from Msua an expedition from the 
Imperial British East African Company arrived in our 
camp, conveying for our use [70 porter-loads of rive, 
and twenty-five cases of European provisions, elothin 
and boots, so that each person in the column recei 
twenty-two pounds of rice, besides rations of salt, sugar, 
Jams and hiseuits. : 

The evening of December 3rd, as we were cme 
in the moonlight, the sound of a cannon was heard. It 
was the evening gun at Zanzibar, and the Zanzibaris set 
2 cer Sine eries of joy at that which announced to 

om that the long journey across the Continent was 
drawing near its close, and the Egyptians and their 
followers echoed the shouts as the conviction dawned on 
them that within the next twenty-four hours they 
should see the ocean, on which with all comfort and 
leisure they would be borne to the land of Egypt and to 
their future homes. 

On arriving at the ferry of the Kingani River, Major 
Wissman came across to meet us, and as the first time 
Thad the honour of being introduced to a colleague who 
had first distinguished himself, at the headquarters of 
the Kasai River, in the service of the International 
Association, while T was building stations wlong the 
main river, On reaching the right bank of the Kingani 
we found some horses saddled, and turning over the 
command of the column to Lient. Stairs, Emin 
and myself were conducted by Major Wissman and 
Lieut, Schmidt to Bagamoyo. ‘Within the coast-town we 
found the streets decorated handsomely with palm 
branches, and received the congratulations of Banian 
and Hindu citizens, and of many o brave German 
officer who had shared the fatigues and dangers of the 
arduous campaign, which Wissman was prosecuting with 
such well deserved success, against the Arab maleantents 
of German East Africa, Presently rounding a comer of 
the street we came in view of the battery square in 
front of Wissman’s headquarters, and on our left, close 





18, 
Nov. 28 
Moun 


#4 IN DARKRST APRICA. 


ten, at hand, was the softly undulating Indian Sea, one great 
Bet expanae of purified blue. * There, Pasha,” Tend. * We 
Beevers are at home !" 











“Yes, thank God," he replied. At the same time, 
the battery thundered the salute in his honour, and 


*OXOMVOVE LY eWIVE HL SaUKO 





WE ARE AT HOME! 407 


announced to the ae at ety Emin, the ae 
Governor of Equatoria, arrived at Bagamoyo, 

We menartad at the door of the mess-house of the ™*™"* 
German officers, and were conducted upstairs to a long 
and broad verandah about forty-five by twenty-five 
feet, which had been converted into a palmy bower, 

ily decorated with palm branches and German faze 
Several round tables were spread, and on a wide fet 
was arranged « sumptuous lune, of which our appetites 
enabled us to partake fearlessly ; but dubious of the 
effects of fine champagne after such long absence, 1 
dilated it largely with Sanerbrann acctin Pasha was 
never gayer than on this afternoon, when surrounded by 
his friends and countrymen he replied to their thousand 
eager questions respecting the life he had endured 
during his long exile in Africa, 

Av four o'clock the column filed in, making a brave 
show. The people were conducted to huta ready con- 
structed near the beach, and as the carriers dropped 
their loads and the long’ train of hummocks deposited 
their grievous burdens of sick men and women, and 
poor children for the last time on the ground, they, like 
myself, must have felt profound relief and understood to 
the full what this arrival by the shore of the sea meant. 

At 7.30 vm. the banquet was to take place. As 
we mounted the stairs to the broad verandah, the 
Pasha was met, having just left the lunch table to 
dress for dinner. We assembled in the iy bower, 
thirty-four persons all told—English Viee-Consu, 
Mr, “Churchill, German Consul, and Italian Consul, 
Captain Brackenbury, of H.M.8, Tu ive, and Com- 
mander T. Mackenzie Fraser, of H.M.S. Somali; the 
Consular Judge, Cuptains Foss and Hirschberg, of 
the German warships Sperber and Schwalbe, Officers of 
the Imperial Commissary’s Staff, Emin Pashu, Captain 
Casati, Captain Nelson, Lieutenant Stairs, Surgeon 
Parke, Mr. Jephson, Mr. Bonny, Péres Etienne and 
Schmidt of the Bagamoyo Mission, Pires Girault and 
Schinze of the Algerian Mission, Officers of the German 
East Africa Co., Baron St. Paul Llaire, and others ; Mr. 





a 





as JIN DARKEST AFRICA. 
W. H, W. Nicoll of the Imperial British 


ip otilla, &e &e, The 
Oe 4 Captain of the Comimissary’s ln, 
Peewmoy of the 


Schwalbe was in attendance to give delat to what 
was A very, sapere affair for 
The guests having assem! Major Wissman led the 
way to the long banqueting-room, into which the central 
room of the house had been converted on the occasion. 
While we were feasting within, the Zanzibaris—tireless 
ereatures—were celebrating the close of a troublous 
period in the street just below the verandah, with animal: 
energy vented in active dance and hearty chorua ‘The 
banquet included the usual number of dishes, I am 
utterly less to deseribe it. ‘To me it appeared 
wonderful for Bagamoyo. From extreme sensitive 
I omitted to inquire of Wissman where he 
obtained his chef, and how it all was managed. 
Without a particle of exaggeration the dinner was a 
triumph. wines were choice and well selected and 
iced, and had it not been for the Saverbrunn close av 
hand in unatinted ee which rendered them 
innocuous by liberal dilution, T should soon have been 
incompetent to speak of their merits, I had almost 
forgotten the ceremony which follows banquets; but as 
the time drew near 9 o'clock, and the music was 
and Major Witsman rose to his feet, a presentiment 
sel me, that with benevolent tolerance of any 
untowardness manifest during our late mission, he aimed 
at proposing to the company that they should join him 
in drinking to the good healths of the guests Emin 
Pasha, Captain Casati, Mr, Stanley and the officers of the 
Expedition which hud concluded its labours by ite 
arrival in the port of German East Africa that day. As 
J supposed, a0 the gallant Major spoke, in well-meastred 
phrases, with genuine kindness and incom 
contislity ; and the company rose to. their to 
supine the sentiments with hearty hurrahs. 
he principles of my reply were first, that Twas 
unaware that Tsmin Pasha was a German when I offered 


my services to carry relief to him; that our 
were mainly of a brave Governor in  difficulti 





— | 





THE BANQUET AT NAGAMOYO. 459 


uarding his province with a tenacity, courage and tse. 
Kp ays the assaults of ferocious fanatics who P+ 
lad already eradicated every vestige of civilization from ™""™™* 
the Soudan, Secondly, that as it had been proved hy 
former expeditions that success was only gained by 
hearty good will, unwearied effort, and uttermost 
striving, my companions and myvelf, like men animated 
with one mind, had devoted uogridgingly every fibre, 
and all our strength, morally and physically, to accom- 
plish the purpose for which we set out, And thirdly, 
that us the world educated men to become indifferent 
to its pmise or censure, thnt ax neither perfection par 
devotion ensured its favour, as misfortune insured its 
contempt, success its envy or hate, and that as an 
individual might be won by sterifice, but that no 
individual possessed merit or could command fortune 
enough to win the admiration of all—the safest plan 
waa to geck the approval of one’ conscience; and 
fourthly, that though we had but proposed, it was God 
who had disposed events us He saw fit “Emin ia 
here, Casati is here. 1 and my friends are all here; 
wherefore we confess that we have a perfect and whole- 
vome joy in knowing thet, for a season at lenst, the 
daily march and its fatigues are at an end." 

‘The Pashn's speech, delivered with finished elocution, 
—clear, distinct, and grammatical—and a deep, re- 
gonant voice, took the company with an agreeable 
surprise, and was mainly an outpouring of gratitude 
to the generous English people who had thought of 
him, to his German countrymen for their kind rece nm 
of him, and to His Imperial Majesty Wilhelm IL for 
his gracious message of welcome and congratulation. 

An effusive gladness pervaded the company. If 
there were several whose hearts overflowed with un- 
disguised pleasure at the thought that a period of 
restfulness was to begin with the morning's sun—others 
rejoiced from a pure and generous sympathy. But the 
Pasha was supremely gry and Ippy. He was seen 
wandering from one end of the table to the other, now 
bending over Pare Etienne; then exchanging innocent: 





460 IN DARKEST AFRICA, 


ase. guiety with Surgeon Parke, and many others; while 1 
bet was ‘absorbed in listening to Wissman's oral account 
Maewmer of the events of the East Coast War. Presently Suli, 
my boy-steward, suddenly ilar in my ear that 
the Pasha had fallen down, whieh 
“stumbled over a chair,” but vente that T did not 
necept it us a serious incident, he udd 
over the verandah wall into the street and is danger- 
ously hurt,” 

@ banquet was forgotten, Sali led me down the 
stains to the street, and at a a removed about twenty 
fest from the plice where he had fallen there were 
two little pools of blood. The accident seems to have 
occurred within fifteen minutes after the delivery of 
his speech, and some minntes must have elapsed before 
1 was informed, for the Pasha had been dragged are 
and water had been ed over the head of 
uneonscious man, and then he had been borne to the 
German Hospital, and the native dance and song had 
continued undisturbed. 

Hastening after my guide, with my mind oppressed 
hy this rental ae lesa gaiety to gloom, from 
joy to grief, from the upright figure glowing with 
pleasure, and radiant with joy to the silent forms 
on the ‘verge of the grave, T reached the hospital, 
and at the door met a German officer who with up: 
lifted hands revealed the impressions gathered from 
his view of the unfortunate man, Guided upstairs, 
T was shown to a bed surrounded by an anxious- 
looking group. On obtaining a view, T saw the Pasha's 
form half undressed extended on the bed, wet bam 
passed over the right side of the head and right e 
A corner of the wetted lint was lifted up, and I saw that 
the right eye was closed hy a. great aad formed by 
swollen tissues, and discovered that the lint was erimson 
with blood oozing from the ear. No one seemed to 
be able to give an exact account of how the accident 
happened, but the general impression seemed to he 
that the Pasha, who was half-blind, and had been 80: 
for the last two years, had moved somewhat too briskly 


c= - 


A SAD ACCIDENT. 461 


towards the verandah, or baleony wall of that * 1y 180. 
tower” wherein wo hed hunched, ta look: wb tha PpY oe * 
natives dancing in the moonlight, and misjudging its" 
height, had leaned over suddenly and too far, and before 
Kern recovered his bulance had top, on to the 
zine shed, over the sidewalk and into street, a fall 
of about fourteen feet from the edge of the shed. 
Lieut. Rochus Schmidt had instantly been informed, and 
hurrying into the street, found the Pasha unconscious, 
and had attempted to rouse him by pouring cold water 
over his head, and failing in thié hud him conveyed 
to the hospital. 

Next morning Surgeon Parke reported to me that the 
Pasha had remained completely unconscious until near 
dawn, and that though the accident was undoubtedly a 
serious one, it need not be considered dangerous, as he 
had examined him, and could discover no fructure of 
the skull, the blood from the ear having issued from 
injured arteries, and that provided no inflammation 
supervened he might be easily removed within ten days 
The Pasha was much bruised on his right side and buck, 
and was in a most painful condition, 

man surgeons from the war-ships, however, 
announced that after a careful examination they had 
come to the conclusion that the Pusha's condition was 
most dangerous, that there was an unmistakable 
near the base of the skull, and that only 20 per cent. of 
such cases ever recovered. Bag maid 

There was not one European at Bagamoyo but felt 
extremely grieved at the sud event that lad wrecked 
the general joy. The feeling was much deeper than 
soldiers will permit themselves to manifest. Outwardly 
there was no manifestation ; inwardly men were atcha 
that his first day's greeting among his countrymen an 
friends should feeerectes co Slaaatrout to him after 
fourteen years’ absence from them. What the Emir 
Karamallah and his fanatics, a hundred barbarous 
negro tribes, conspirators, and rebel soldiery, and four- 
teen years of Equatorial heat had failed to effect, an 
innocent hospitality had nearly succeeded in doing. At 


Hin 


é 
A 


wind met 
from taint 
‘that this 


of 
beyond the range of anythi rests 
we so lightheartedly accepted the mission of rt 
the Governor of Equatorin, 


(aoe as to assist Emin Pasha and 
‘i, and their few hundreds of followers. ‘ 
time, years, strength, health, life, anything and ev 


= 











‘TW KELINY EXPKDITION RETURNING TO ZaNZIAN 





MY FAREWKLL VISIT TO THE PASI, 465, 


thing—freely, kindly, aud devotedly—withoub even 1480, 
giving one thought to a reward, which, whatever ity Ds * 
character might be, would be utterly inadequate as 
compensation, To one like me, what are banquets? A 
crust of bread, a chop, and a cup of tea, is a feast to 
one who, for the best’ part of twenty-three years, bas 
not had the satisfaction of eating a shilling’s worth af 
food a day, Receptions! they are the very honours | 
would wish to fly ftom, aa I profess myself slow of 
speech, and Nature has not fitted me with a disposition 
tw enjoy them. Medals! L cannot wear them; the 
pleasure of looking at them is even denied me by my 
continual absence, What then? Nothing. No honour 
or reward, however great, can be equal to that subtle 
satisfaction that a man fecls when he can point to hia 
work and say, “See, now, the task 1 promised you to 
perform with all loyalty and honesty, with might and 
main, to the utmost of my ability, and God willing, is 
to-lay finished.” Say, is it well and truly done? And 
when the employer shall confess that “it is well and 
truly done,” can there be any recompense higher than 
that to one's inward self? 

In the morning T had paid a visit to Emin Pasha, 
He was in great trouble and pain, “ Well, Pasha," 
I said, “I hope you don't mean to admit the possi- 
bility ‘that you are to die here, do you?" “Oh! 
oe am not so bad a8 that,” and he shook his 

ead. 

“By what T have seen, Pasha, I am entirely of the 
same opinion, A person with a fractured head could 
not move his head aftee that manner.* Good-bye. 
Dr. Parke will remain with you until dismissed by you, 
and [ hope to hear good news from him daily.” “We 
ahook hands and I withdrew. 

Tt may be curious, but it is true, Emin Pasha, who 
breathed a cosmopolitan spirit while he was in the 
Interior, and who prof broad views, became dif- 
ferent in a few days. Only one day before we reached 


* ‘The Pasha arrived at Zanzitar about tho beginning of March, 1890, 
porfoctly recovered. 
Vou. tM. 80 














1880. 
cs 
vausilar. 


466 IN DARKEST APRICA 


Z aes to him, “ Within a aed, ci 
ur coun i 
Frotscglaw with sep te at “once more 


Zanzibar, he lay as @ case 
Emin Pasha immediately after his accident. Hay 


who returned from hie visit to the 
that he had been threatened with a short shrift if he 
ever visited Bagamoyo again; and never message or 
note did I receive from Emin, the late Governor of 
juntoria. “A 5, ‘ rs 

hile writing this concluding chapter there appeared 
the Baa that Emin he had entered the 
service of the German Government in East Africa, It 
was the conviction that he would do this that had 
enused me to remind him on the 4th of December, that 
it was English money which hnd enabled our Expedi= 
tion to proceed to his relief and rescue. That he has 
ultimately elected to serve Germany in preference to 
England ‘appears perfectly natural, and yet the mere 
announcement surprised u great many of his warmest 
and most disinterested friends, among whom we may 
number ourselves, 

For among the copies of letters relating to Emin Pasha, 
and the objects of our Expedition supplied to me by the 
Baitish Foreign. Offce, was a copy of one perenne 
have been written by Emin himself to Sir John Kak, 
offering to surrender his province to England before 
even he had obtained authority from the Khedive to 


—— 


tisfactory from 
Pata atd finally I despatched my hoy-steward Sali, 














STRANGE CONDUCT OF THE PASHA. 487 


part with it, The appearance of this letter in print 1s. 
vexed him greatly, as it seemed to accuse ewetoosie pacts 
ing to betray the interests of the Government he was 
supposed to have served #o faithfully. Instead, how- 
ever, of meeting with an agent of England, emy 
to treat with him for the delivery of the province to the 
British Government, and to appoint him as the Governor 
of the Province under British auspices, he was informed 
that the Egyptian Government, acting under the advice 
of the British representative at Cuiro, had only availed 
themselves of our Expedition to convey to him their 
wish that he would retire from Equatoria with auch 
troops aa were willing to mee him, failing whieh 
he was to be left to stay in the Sl ch ie ope tema 
sibility. Those who are interested in motives will not 
find it difficult, therefore, to understand the ny it 
hesitation and indecision that he seemed to labour 
under when questioned by me as to his intentions, For 
nothing aye have been more unexpected and un- 
welcome than the official letters from the Khedive and 
Nubar Pasha which declared their resolve to abandon 
the provinee, exeept the absolute silence of British 
officials, or British philanthropists, or commercial com: 
pe respecting the future of the country wherein he 
ind_spent so many years of his life in contentment, if 
not in peace, In Ties of what ho:bad expected, T had 
only the offer of the King of the Belgians to make to 
him, to which were attached certain conditions, 
appeared to him to render the offer of no value. He 
could not guarantee a revenue—possibly because he 
knew better than any one else that there was 
neither government nor province, and that, therefore, 
revenue could not be collected. It was then I pro) 
to him, solely on my own responsibility, that he should 
take service with the British East African Association, 
because the copy of his letter to Sir John Kirk informed 
me that it apy hed nearer to his own Eereaitic than 
the other. As I could not guarantee the enga; it 
without wuthority, and could only promise that I would 
do my utmost to realise my ideas, I conld but extract 











468 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


a declaration of his preference that the second offer was 
more congenial to him than retreat to Egypt, or service 


wer with the Congo State, Yet, aa we know, he could 


definitely accept neither, inasmuch as he did not know 
whether his rebellious officers would consent to depart 


pl 
mn 
eons were willing to accompany him, he was compelled 


with such servants as we compelled to serve him during 
the journey, 

‘Therefore, having accomplished our mission towards 
him faithfully, with every consideration and respect: 
while he acted as the Governor of an important pro- 
vince, with every kindness and tender solicitude for 
himself and family during a journey of 1,400 miles, 
until he was in the arms of lis countrymen, we have 
some reason for being more than surprised’ that the 
accident at the banquet at Bagumoyo should have so: 
suddenly eae our acquaintance without 
smallest acknowledgment. Three several times T am 
aware [ offended Emin, The first time was on 
5th, when, finding him utterly unable to decide, ar to 
suggest anything, or necept suggestion from my 
patience, after fifty-two days’ restraint, gave way. 
now the very thought of it upsets me. If the Pasha 
had a whipping-boy, I fear the poor fellow would have 
had a severe time of it. Secondly, my judgment in the 


EXPLANATIONS, 400 


affair of Mohammed's wife was contrary to his wishes, but 1989. 
had he been my brother, or benefactor, | could not have Pe 
done otherwise than render strict justice, Third was av 
Mtsora, when Emin came to apologise for certain in- 
temperate words be had used, and when I seized the 
opportunity of giving him a little lecture upon the mode 
of conduct becoming a Pasha and a gentleman, “1 
frankly accept: your apology, Pasha,” I said, “ but I do 
hope that from here to the coast you will allow us to 
remember that you are still the Governor of the 

torial Province, and not a vain and spoiled child. {J 
can but grieve to see you exhibiting childish pettish- 
neas, when we cannot forget that you are he for whom 
we were all ready to fling away our lives at 1 moment's 
notice, The method of showing resentment for imagi- 
nary offences which we see in vogue with you and 
Casati is new to us. We do not understand why every 
little misunderstanding should be followed by suspension 
of intercourse. We have been in the habit of expressing 
frankly our opinions, but never ubove a minute nourish- 
ing resentment, and brooding aver fancied wrongs, If 
you could bear this in mind you would be convinced that 
this foreed seclusion in your tent cannot appear other 
wise than absurd, and infantile to us.” 

“Ah, Mr. Stanley, Lam sorry I ever came on with 
you, and, if you ‘will allow ‘me, on reaching Mr. 
Mackay’s, 1 will ask you to let me remain with him," 
aid he. 

“But why, Pasha?” Tasked, “Tell me why, and 
what is it you wish. Has any person offended you? 
I know of everything that transpires in this camp, but 
T confess that {am ignorant. of any offence being done 
towards you intentionally by any person. Down to the 
amallest Zanzibari boy I can only see a sincere desire to 
serve you, Now, Pasha, let me show you in few words 
for the first time how strange your ‘conduct has ap- 
peared to us When we volunteered to convey relief to 

ou, you were a kind of hero to us; you were Gordon's 

t ficutenant, who was in danger of being overcome 
by the fate which seemed to overtake every person 


ae 





IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


ted with the Soudan, and we resolved to 
i from what 


ask what country 


ve birth, we did not inquire into yi 
anieraee were Emin, the heroic Governor 
. Felkin, and Junker, and Allen, of the Anti 


lod was ammunition, and from thi 
New York to take command. of this 
only one thought, and that was to 
was too lute, 1 wrote you from Zanzi 
intended to take the Congo route, and that we shoule 
march for Kavalli at the south-west end of the Albert: 
Lake, und I begged you to prepure the natives for our 
coming, for you had two steamers, and life-boats, besides 
canoes. Well, we reached Kavalli on the 14th Decem- 
ber, 1887. You did not reach Kavalli before March, 
1888. ‘That emission on your part cost us the life of # 
gullant Englishman, and the lives of over a hundred 
of our brave and faithful followers, and caused a 
delay of four months, We had to return to Fort Bodo, 
and bring our boat to search for you. During twenty- 
six days stay with you, we were not certain of any one 
thing, except that you would wait for the arrival of the 
Major and rear column, We hastened back to hunt up: 
the rear colamn to find the Major waa dead, and the 
reur column a wreck, Now all this might have been 
avoid a had visited Kavalli, and assisted in your 
own relief. When we returned to you in January, 
1889, you were deposed, a helpless “prisoner, and in 
danger of being taken to Khartoum dd yet, 
ee had written to me that you and Casati and many 

ptians were resolved to depurt if I would give you 
w little time, after fifty-six days’ Sera waiting you 
were still undecided what to do. My illness gave you: 
an additional twenty-eight days’ delay, and T nd you 
still hankering for something that I cannot guess, and 
which you will not name. Up to this date we have lost 











— = 












THE PASHA 


Major Barttelot, ee ee we are here Feste! 10, 
own lives if they are required, What more can we do P= & 
for you? Write ee plain words your needs, and =" 
you shall then judge for yourself iybetiae our profes- 

sions are mere empty words.” 


ages ee which T laboured, and that was to write 
my letters to the Emin Relief Committee, without 
betraying our ae wt the extraordinary vacillution 
which marked the Governor's conduct. nie would have 
been a more agreeable task to have maintained the 
illusions under which we had set out from England, but 
it was impossible, What transpired at Kavalli was 
visible to every officer in the Expedition, and at some 
indiscreet moment the mask under which friendship 
may have attempted to disguise the eccentricities of the 
Pasha would surely have been brushed aside, Tt was, 

herefore, necessary that I should state the truth as 
geen as possible, so that whatever may have been 
deduced ‘by crities, the worst charge would have been 
no more than that his apparent vacillation waa due to 
exceas of umiability. 

But the Pasha’s conduct at Bagamoyo, from the 
moment he entered the German Hospital, will not even 
permit me the privilege of exhibiting him in such an 
amiable light, The ungrateful treatment which the 
poor boy Sali received, the making of my letvers 
common ‘property among the German officers, all of 
which were urging him to have regard for his own 
- good name an ta fair reputation, the strange ingratitude 
shown to Dr, Parke, ae ought not to have an enemy 
in the wide world, the sudden and Se — 
of intercourse with any member of our 
render it neceasary that we should not close nae 
without reference to these things. 

Tn Africa Emin Pasha expressed his fears that if he 
returned to E; he would be unemployed, Within 
half-nn-hour of my arrival in Cairo, I took the liberty of 


a 


that, I send you my 

As he had offered his services to 
East African Company were induced to Tae 
aire and [was aware while oi Cairo that a 

engagement was opén to 

auddent sreybody wus alice to eee Cab 1 
accepted service with the Germans in Rast 
psaely: one af 7 ae ian i to 
new employ e imate as 
for sdnluttsation by the desta 


I eens ‘that iret nd 





As has 
Germans has not been a surprise to me; but 
less indifference to his own reputation, and hi 
of the finer human feelings certainly are cal 
diminish admiration. While most readers of this books 
would be indifferent to his employment by his own 
Emperor, and would consider it perfectly natural 
right thut he should show preference for his own natal — 
land and countrymen sab not appear so nataral 
them that the flag which he had stated at Kayalli he 
hud served for thirty yeurs, should have been so 
fully cast aside, or that the “kind master,” the Khedive 
of it, who had given £14,000 towards his bee 
should have been aes with 40 unceremo! 
that Sir Willism ‘kinnon and his English 
who had subseribed £16,000 for sending to him 
















INGRATITUDE. . 473 


assistance he had requested, should have been subjected 
to such a sudden chilling of their kindly sympathies, 
Nor will it appear quite natural to us that he should so 
soon forget his * dear ite " for oe ere 80 
nobly in May, 1888, and February and |, 1889, a3 
to leave them in Cairo for four months without a word, 
Dr. Vita Hassan, the apothecary, his most devoted fol- 
lower, received a letter from him a few days before 1 left 
Cairo, which announced to him that he and the others 
roust look out for themselves, that as he had severed his 
connection with pt he could not be troubled any 
more with them, Poor Shukri Agha, faithful to the 
Jast, with tears in his eyes came to me to ask what it 
all meant? What had he done to be treated with such 
neglect? With eight years’ arrears of pay due to them, 
the Pusha's followers remain wondering why their late 
chief has so utterly east them away, 

We were the recipients at Zanzibar of so much 
courtesy and hospitality that pages might. be filled with 
the mere mention of them. 'o Major Wissmann, { am 
vastly indebted for large and unstinted hospitality, and 
T feel honoured with the aequaintance of this noble and 
brave German centurion. To the gallant Captains Foss 
und Hirschberg we owe great gratitude for their un- 
remitting kindness, ‘To Consul-General Col. Euan-Smith 
and his charming wife, to wham I am indebted for 
courtesies past ees 8 and a hospitality as un; 
ing as it was princely and thoroughly disinterested, 
besides favours and honours without number, [ am: 
too poor in aught todo more than make this simple 
record of a goodness which cannot be recompensed, 
And indeed there was not a German, or English, or 
Ttalian, or Indian resident at Zanzibur who did not 
show to myself and companions in some form or 
another, either by substantial dinners and choice wines 
their—what was called—appreciation of our services 
in behalf of Emin Pasha, Captain Casati, and their 
‘orth Agent ofthe Wast African Com 

Agent ¢ East African Company, in company 
with List Stairs, having completed their Inbours, of 


il 


8 


iB 


HEE 


ir 
7 
= 
B 





= TUVGIARNA AV RINATIIVA HL 





CLAIM FOR DAMAGES AGAINST TIPPU-TID. 477 


of cloth, about fifty cases of gunpowder, as many cases 1889 
of fixed ammunition, Remington rifles, e gunn, re 
revolvers, und £128 worth of stores for his sub-chief, “*™* 
Muini Sumai, on the promise that he would supply 
carriers to escort Major Bartrelot until the Major would 
either meet me or Emin Pasha, which he did not do 
further than for about ninety miles, and therefore caused 

us a delay of nearly a year, and a further expense of 
nearly twelve months’ pay extra to about 250 Zanzibaria, 

The bill of claims that we could legitimately present 
amounted in the aggregate to £10,000, Wherenpon I 
pleaded for nn injunction that such’ moneys should not 
lepart from the hands of the British ‘subject Jathir 
Tarya until an English court of justice should decide 
whether the Emin Relief Committee was not entitled in 
equity to have thew expenses and moneys refunded. 
After hearing the evidence the Consular Judge granted 

the injunction. There isnot a doubt, then, that, if strict 
justice be dealt to this arch offender, the Emin Relief 
Committee may find itself in porsession of funds 
sufficient. to pay each Zanzibari survivor a honus of 

300 rupees, and each of our officers the sum of £1000 

cash, a consummation devoutly to be wished, 

After arriving at Cairo on the 16th of January, 
1890, and delivering the 260 refugees to the Exyp- 
tian authorities, 1 sought a retired house wherem I 
might proceed to write this record of three years’ ex- 
periences “In Darkest Africa, and the Story of our 
Quest, Reseue, and Retreat of Emin, the Governor of 
Kquatoria.” 1 discovered such a house in the Villa 
Victoria, and on January 25th I seized my pen to do a 
day's work. But 1 knew not how to begin. Like 
Elihu, my memory was full of matter, and I desired to 
write that T might be refreshed ; but there was no vent. 
My right hand forgotten its cunning, und the art of 
composition was lost by long disuse. Wherefore, put- 
ting firm restraint against the crowds of reminiscences 
that clamoured for issue, I Jet slip one after snother 
with painful deliberation into the light, and thus, while 
‘one day my pen would fairly race over the paper at the 


a 





ahs 





478. IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


rate of nine folios an hour, at other times it could 

scarcely frame 100 words, But finally, after fifty days’ 

close labour, in obedience to an irresistible imy ra it 

have succeeded in reaching this page 903 of: 

manuscript, besides sare 400 letters and ubout 100 

Bier and am couse eae from oes to beg 
reader's permission to conclude, 

Cane weenes of the wonderful land of Inner Africa, 
through which we have tmvelled together, must for 
ever cling to our memories, Wherever we go some 
thought of some one of the many scenes in that ‘osp 
forest will intrude itself into the mind, ‘The eternal 
woods will stand in their far-away loneliness forever, Ax 
in the past, so they will flourish and fall for countless 
ages in the ea in damb and still multitudes, 

adowy a8 gh hosts in the tet yet silently 
upward und higher into the air and sunshine. In 
we shall often hear the thunder crashing and 
in rolling echoes Bw yh the silence and the ee 
we aball see the Tad len mists of the morning, and 
in the sunshine the lustre of bedewed verdure 
the shcen of wet foliage, and inhale the fragrance of 
flowers, 
ae now ae Se the oes of it ee 
the memory will glide spectres of men cowering in 
tainy gloom, shivering with cold, gaunt and sad-eyed 
through hunger, despairing, in the midst of the un 
known; we shall hear the moaning of dyii men, 
see the stark forms of the dead, and shrink aj 
the hopelessness of our state. Then like gleams nt ht fair 
pome will rise to view the prospects of the 
land, the vistas of green bossy hills, the swirling 
swathes of young grass waltzing “merrily with the sale, 
the flowing lines ot boscage darkening the hollows, the 
receding view of uplifting and subsiding land waves 
rolling to the distance where the mountains loom in 
faint image through the undefined blue. And often 
thought will wing itself lighter than » swift, and soar 
in atrial heights over sere RRS blue water, vivid green 
Tacit asa el lc al el li Ga lengthy line of 


a 


GOODNIGHT # 49 


colossal mountain shoulders turned towards the Semliki, 
and around the ation of white heads seated in 

ory far above the Afrie world, and listen to the 
Sropetag waters as they tumble down along the windi 
grouvés oF Ruwtesbons ‘i abies oes offastvas’ Graves sad 
speed through the impending rain-clouds, and the float- 
ing globes of white mist over unexplored abyases, through 
the eternal haze of Usongora, and up with a joyous 
leap into the cool atmosphere over Ankori and Karagwé, 
and straight away over 300 leagues of pastoral plains, 
and thin thorn forest, back again to marvel at the 
delightful azure of the Indian Ocean, 

Good-night, Pasha, and you, Captain Casati! You 
will know better when you have read these pages, what 
the saving of you cost in human life and suffering, I 
have nothing ‘to regret, What I have given that I 
have given ‘ly and with utmost good will; and #0 
say a 

Good-night, Gentlemen of the Relief Committee ! 
Three years are past since your benevolence commis- 
sioned us to relieve the distréased and rescue the weak. 
260 ull told have been returned to their homes; about 
150 more are in safety. 

Good night, oh! my Companions! May honours 

such as you deserve be showered upon you. To the 
warm hearts of shoes countrymen I ‘consi; 
Should one doubt be thrown upon your Brendes 
upon your loyalty or honour, within these pages, the 
record of your faithfulness during & Bayh: whieh I 
doubt will ever be excelled for its gloom and hopeless- 
ness, will be found to show with whut noble fortitude 
you bore all. Good-night, Stairs, Jephson, Nelson, 
Parke, and you, Bonny, a long good-night to you all ! 


‘You who nevor tumod your backs, 
Hut marehi 


m vrward, 

Nover doubted clouds would hroak, 

Never dreamed, though right wore worsted, 
rong would telus 

Hold we fal! to rive, are 

ter, 


IN DARKEST AFRICA, 


No, at noonday, in the bustle of 
Man's work-time, 

Greet the Unseen with a cheer! 

Bid them forward, breast and back, as 
Either should be. 

“Strive and thrive!” cry, “ speed, fight 
On, for e' 

‘There aa here.” 





‘Tne Tanne Bx To Gop FoR RVER AND EVER AMEN. 








APPENDICES. 


APPENDIX A. 


CONGRATULATIONS BY CABLE 
RECEIVED AT ZANZIBAR. 


‘Wennson, 10 December, 180, 
Santry, Zancibar. ‘My thoughts ar often with you and your 
brave followers, whow dangers and hardships are now at an ond, 
Once more I heartily congratulate all, including the murvivore of tho 
gallant Zanzibarin who displayed wuch devotion ond fortitde during 
your marvellons Expedition, ‘Truot Emin progrosos favourably, 
oo < VRE 
Brxi.ox, 4 Deewnber, 1860, 
Srastey, Zaneibur, ‘Thanks to your touneity of purporo and 
indomitablo courage, you have now, aflur having repeatedly crowed 
tho Dark Continent, achiowel a now long journey full of fewxful 
dangors and almort unbearnble hardship; that you have ovorconme ft 
all, and that your way home Jod you through territories placed undor 
ny fag, gives mo great rutinfuction, aud I weloome you heartily on 
your return to eivilization and mafety. 
Wasi Turenaron Rex, 
Guar Biswanox, 


Hcmsa, 28 November, THD, 
‘Braxuxy, Zanzibar, Many greetings and warmest congratulations: 
on your marvellous and heroio expodition. 5 
sean 


Waninworas, 15 Deowmber, 1889, 
Stanuey, Zaneibar, Lam direeted by the Pronident of tho United 
‘Btatos to tonder his congratulations to you upon the sows whiah 
VoL. H. aL 








452 IN DARKRST APRICA. 


thax attended tour of discovery throngh Africa, and upon 
(ripen peding teigtiatiraateth rn phnaeps! ~ 


‘Brann, 


‘Cater, 7 Décombra, U8. 
‘Mowsteon Sraxury, Faq., Zanzibar, Jo yous adress mos sincliren 
cot condinlos félioitations «nr votre arrivée A Zansihar apr tonto 
os. péripitios de votre romarquable Expédition pour aller an wfeonmne 
@'Emin Pasha ot do vos beavon compagnons. Jo vous ai envoy’ tm 
de men batewnx, lo Mansonmb, pour vous ramenar eb jattends avec 
‘impationen le plainir de yous recovoir toms. 
Mumewxr Tunwens, Khedive of Egypt. 


Carmo Annin, 12 Deneniber, 160, 
Srasiny, Zansibar. You are authorised to pay 200 pounds ax 
to your Zanzibar men in rooognition of thair #orvicos. 
‘Tho British Consnl-Goneral has been naked to pay you the amonnt ox 
behalf of the Bgyptian Government. 
Mruzver Tauwrtx, Kleine, 





Lonpos, 12 December, 1880. 
Sraxtey, Zansibar. Corporation London invite you to xveeption 
Guildhall. 


Buax, Guildhall, 


Buvxnitics, 11 Leeonber, IR, 
Sraxuer, Zanaibar, Société Géographie Bruxelles flicite invith 


AMnxaocwe, HY December, 1880, 
Sraxixy, Zanzibar. Geographio Society, Viotoria, congratulate 
you. Convey Emin Pusha deep eympathy, 
Macvoxarn, Secretary, 


Tovxetans 8 Decouee, 1389. 

Mowwevx Staxtey, Zanzibar, La Conférence de Bruxelles justo 
mont (inne dew nonffrancos ot dos périla que vous aver hravés avec 
oH compagnon ot admirant 1'énorgie que vous aver déployée dans 
Vaoocmplimomont d'une noble mission, vous ndrewe sex ainciret 
filioitations ; olle connnit et apprécie tos nouyeunx ot grands sorviow 
que vous avex rendux i Ia xeionee ot d humanité; elle beste 
Texprimor sm xympathion & Emin Pasha, qui fiddle wu 0 


a 


APPENDIX A 483 


‘si longtemps gardé un poste danyeroux, a de Jui faira part dew 
yux qu'elle forme pont son complet ritablineanont mn nom de la 
Confrence. 


Ln Patewexr Basox Lasomnsowr, 


Lowpos, 11 December, 188 
Sraxtxy, Zansibar. Sir Julian Goldsmid, Sir Edwin Arnold, 
Alfred Rothschild, Earl Wharnclitfe, Prince Gluea, Sir Arthur 
Sullivan, Beatty Kingston, Charles Wyndham, Colonel FitaGoorgo, 
Lord Honald Gowor, Lord Ernest Hamilton, Sir Jamos Linton, Count 
Tutzow, Sir Morell Mackenzie, General Sir Roger Palmer, Dowty 
Carte, Fred Cowen, Anderson, Oritchett, Sutherland Edwards, Ji 
Pettie, Hobson, Rowe, Frank, Lockwood, Faxjeon, Teen Haka 
constituting Committes of Arts and Letters Club, heartily cougrata- 
lnte you on brilliant success, safe retum civilization, invite you to 
banquet your honour. 
Lospos, 2 December, 1880 
Sraxtey, Zanzibar. Council Royal Cooepartied Base Bociety cone 
grutulnte you heartily on auecoas of journey and grent discoveries, 
Guar Dovr, President, 


‘Epmwoweit 80 November, 1840, 
nike, 


Branay, Zonubar, Manchester Geographical Sooicty scide 
cordial greeting to yourself and brave companions, trusting your 
health may be spared. 

Gunexwoon, Sramnat axp Sowsnnvrns, 





Bown, S Deoember, 180 
Sraxury, Exry, Zonvibar, Geographical Socioty wonde hearty 
wwoleome. 
Loxpox, 4 December, 188%, 
Seater, Zonsibar. T amust bo first to offer you any warmest 
hourty congratulations on tho completion of your hereulean turk, 
Tnform me ws moon at possible of your movements and telegraph 
general state of health of your staf, I congratulate thom upon thelr 


succoss, 
(Sm Wrrisam) Macimox (Bart). 


4 


454 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


Lasnon, 2 November, 1880, 
Sranuiy, Zanzibar, My wife and T thankfully rejoice to learn, 
of your vatity onl wicca, sol anniouly avait farther nfurnaloi 
‘Aovopt our most hearty congratulations, We are longing to we you. 
Oo our kindest sympathy to Emin Pacha and all your companion 
‘All tho Company's afficers have been instructed to do everything they 


‘ean to meet your wishes. 
(Sm Warxsax) Maowsxvox (Bart). 
From the Emin Pasha Relief Committoe and tho Directors of the: 
‘Tunporial British Bast African Company to TI, M. Sraxcny, Bay. 
fund Boer Pasa — 
‘Mont candial hearty congratulations, 


21 November, 18h 


Avex, 24 November, 1880, 

Sraxtuy, Zanaibar, Mywlf and George Mackonzio hope to 

organise proper reception for you, which T consider both fitting and. 
neceaary. 


Col. Evan-Swart, 
Abies, 24 November, 1880. 
Heartiost welcome and sincorost congratulations on your safe 
roturn. I hope to come and moot you at Bugumoyo if you do not 
ruich there before Sth Decombor. T only rouch Zanzibar nd from, 
England, Of cours you will stay with us on arrival My wife 
joins mo in heartiout good wishes, 
Gronak 8, Mackewzne, 


Sranury. Hourtiont congratulations yourself and Evin, Am 
of saverul letters from friends. Tt is nbsolutely 
most romain Mombasa four dayx Muvt procood with all buate, 
‘greot you as spacial representative Relief Committoo. 
G. 8. Macnaxets, Aden 


Loxnox, 25 Desember, 188 

Sraxury, Zanzibar, Balinwkill sends you united Kindont Tewetiont 
good wishos for a merry Christmas and a happy Now Your. ‘Thay 
rejoice that at this seavon you aro enjoying your well-camadl repoaa 
‘after your hardships and dangers. 


Macnnwnon. 





APPENDIX A. 485 


‘Karnrxetwent, 3 December, 1860, 
Staxuey, Zaweibar. Safo agnin, thank God ! 
Col. Du Westox, Swarteland, 


Loxvox, 9 Deepmber. 
Staxtxy, Zanzibar, Thousand welcomes! Your old friend, 


(5. R.) Ronmss0%, Daily Nowe 





Loxpox, 14 Deermber, 1889, 

Sravuey, Zanaiber. Tho Fishmongers Company sand thoir 

congratulations and wish to prosont Mr. HM. Stanley with thoir 

Honorary Freedom, Tf Mr. Stanley is willing to accept this, they 

requost him to givo them the pleasure of his company at dinnor 

during the mouth of February, or at auy other time ho tay find it 
‘more convenient, 


Miuvreaci, 7 Devember, 180, 
Srantax, Zanzibar, The Burgomaster of Bruwols sends in the 
namo of the Administration Communale his warmest folicitations to 
Henry Stanley for the hoppy issue of his admirable entorprieo, and 
hopes to welcome him at the ‘Town Hall. 


Bota, 


Loxton, 2 Docember, 196. 
Sraxtxy, Zawsibay, Applands hero ; tenders weleoruing dinner. 
. Savaon Cum. 


Lowpas, 13 Deeewber, 1880, 
Sraxtay, Zanzibar. George Club felicitate. 





Lospon, & Deowmber, 1889, 
Srasuir, Zonsibar. ‘The Turnors Company gave a dimer to the 
Lord Mayor at which many old friends wore proven. After roooiving 
& gouerous tologram from His Majesty King Leopold, an honorary 
‘Tornor, your health was drunk with stirring enthosinam. I'he 
Company sond you hearty congratulations on your splendid uchieve- 
‘mont and cordially welcome you home, 
Bouwerr Covrns, Chairman, 
Loxpon, 1 Deormber, 1689. 
Bidsisic) Forte Bit Ciclo witnn Congratulations 
al 


Lawson, Daily Telegraph. 


—_ ——) 

















486 IN DARKEST AFRICA, 


Lavvo, 18 Decwer, 1860, 

Snort, Zanedhar, Amerieann London, applaud hervio nablowe 

Craei cae et remy Rev » pagel ‘Minister 
ee Weuscoms, Swehil 


Panis, 6 December, 1980, 
Staxuxy, Zansibar. Lot mo first congratulate you upon your 
reat suoces, lot mo Meoondly thank you for letter, and your 
treatment of my correspondent. Hoping to #ee you soon, T am your 
‘grout admirer, 


Jaxxe Gounon Bewerr, New York Herald. 


Epnencnan, 29 Nowember, 1880. 
Sraxuny, Zancibar, ‘Thousand welcomes, congratulations on 
‘and brilliant achievement, 


‘Dnvon (Livingstono's son-in-law), 


asceman, 7 Dreenter, 8, 

Sraniay, Zansibar, Piaroo ways, several congratelations Society 

of Aru. Elliot says, going to Cairo to-morrow, hopos to entartala 

you thoro on Now Yen's day. Evorybody says you aro a phenome- 

gully great man; to myself your succes truly wonderful, beats 

romance, Sorry about Emin, hope your able doctor will pall hin 
through, duo to you ho should be landed safe wt home. 

From Maxaoto Dirxctos, Eastern Telegraph Crmpang. 


4 Dewember, 1880, 
Sraxuny, Zawzibar, You will have many congratulations on the 
mcccentul termination of your most heroic work: ut none cam be 
taore siacore and earnest than thovo of your friend. 
(Sir) Joms Pewnen, 





80 Nowember, 1880 
Staxurr, Zaneibar. Affeetionato congratulations from your oldast 
‘London friend on happy return and splendid achievemonts transcond= 
ing all that hax gone before, Your naino on every tougue on Sunday 
22 December; Robinson, Sala, Leving, ‘Toole, Yates, Lawson, Wing 
fiol, my guoite at Reform Club, whon your health and dons 
carvor wns only toast of evening. 
(J.C) Parasia, 


ll 




















APPENDIX A. 47 


‘Vie, 28 November, 1880, 
Sraxuey, Zaneibar. Again woleomo back trom still another 
perilous African Expedition. 
Dovoras Ginna, 


‘TLaseana, 5 December, 1880, 
Sraxuey, Zancibar, Heartiost congratulations. 
‘Broowmavs. 


Buran, 4 Dever, 1880, 
raxtxy, Zansibar. Warm congratulation’, 
Iypevexpeyer Butar avo Genny Hanny. 


New Your, 9 Lecember, 1880, 
Sraviex, Zancibar. HM. Stanley Africans, 
(J.B) Pow, 


Lavo, 8 Desmben, 1980, 
‘Stavnny, Zanzibar. Sincerest congratulations. 
Guava, Wann, 
Lown, 4 Deonnber, 15h 
Sraxtex, Zanzibar, Bravo! welcome home. 
‘Simupox, May, Weneown 





New York, 6 Deceniber, 1880. 
Sraniny, Zanzibar, Century Magazine wonis congratulations, 
&o, ko, So, ee, be, ae, 


ny LEPTER) 
Pann te 8 Deeembre, 1880, 

Mormem rr cuxn Cuishave,—Ta Borists do Giéogemphio do 
Paris now charge do your féliciter de votre retour, Bile « Saat 
plus vif inténtt aux périllenx voyages quo vous vencs a’ 
et tout 2 ee tases aux découvertas giographiquos qui a 
ti To riwultat 

La Sosiété oxpéro que vous voudres bien Ia mettre A mémo d'on 
apprécior tonte Min portance. 





c IN DARKBST AFRICA, 
‘Vouillox ngréor, Monsiour ot cher Colligno, avee nos félicitations: 





C. Marwons, 


Le Président de la Commission Centrale, Membre de UTnetitut, 
J. Mase-Eowanpe, 


Te Prinident do la Sooitti, Membre de UTnatitut, 
Conrn pn Lesaere. 


A. Monsionr Henry M. Stanley, Mombro Corrosponant de In 
Soclité de Géographio de Paria 











{TNE CANCET CONTAINING THE WOSONARY REDON OF TIKE CY OF Keene, 
ENCED TO TWE AVTHOW NKEORE SEEING CUT AV ‘TINE WSOC OF AI, 
2a 


GOLD CASKET PRESENTED TO MR. HENRY MORTON 
STANLEY WITH THE HONORARY FREEDOM OF THB 
crry. 


‘The design of the casket is Arubesque, and it stands upon a base 
of Algerine ony, surmounted by a plinth of ebony, the corners of 
which project and are rounded. On each of thene, at tho angle of the 


—aa | 


APPENDIX Ay 439 


casket, stands an ostrich oarved in ivory; behind onch bind and 
curving ovor it projects an clophant’s toxk, which ix looped to three 
‘spears placed in the panctled angle of tho caskot, the pillars af which 
aro of erocidotito, rexting, in basal sockats of gold, and wu 
capitals of the same motal. ‘The panelk of the ca 
oof aro of ivory richly ovorlaid with ornamontal work in fino gold of 
various colours. The back panel bears the City arms emblazoned in 
the propor heraldic colourx. Of the ond panels, one hears the 
tricolonred monogram “ FLMLS.” surrounded by a wreath-emblen of 
victory, and the othor that of the Lord Mayor of London, ‘The front 
nel, which is also the door of tho casket, hears a miniature map of 











A CASKET, TINE OUP OF KING LEOPOLD 1, KING OF ‘TINE NETGIANK, OONTAINEXG 
ME WPAN OF APRICNG ANI "TIE AI OF ERVIN. 


Africa wurmounting the tablet beuring the Snveription r  Prosntod 
tw Henry Morton Stanley with the frvedom of the City.” Above both 
the front and buok panels on the roof aro the ntandards cf Amorien 
nt Britain, and, surmounting the whole, on an eval platform 
in on allegorical figuro of the Congo Free Stato, seatol hy tho source 
of tho river from which it doriver ite name, and holding the horn of 
plenty, which is ovurflowing with native products ‘The design wax 
selected from among a Targe umber submitted hy tho Teading London 
goliimiths, and. rofloots great credit npon the tuste nnd workmanship 
of the dosignors and makers, Moses. George dwar & Son, Glaagow, 
and Poultry, London. 








| 490 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


APPENDIX B. 


NOTES. 


‘Tho Wambutti know a donkey and called it “attic” ‘Thoy «ay | 
‘that they somotimes cateh thom in pits, What they oan Sad $9 galas 
‘wonder, ‘Thoy eat Leuven. | 

Balciolewa language of Ludokara. 

Wambutti call their language Ka-mbutti, or that of Bukwa, peo 
nowneed Bakknoa. T fancy Schweinfurth may have boon unable to 
otoct tho snbtlo sound of vow ancl called his dwarfs Alcks, 

‘Tho Kusnbutti or Baklowa, tho Bakiokwa or Bukumn, ani the 
Babira, botwoon Kinnona and Kabongi on the Congo, we perceive 
speak threo dinloats lonely rewinbling, ono socibes een 
first and Inst aro romarkubly similar, yot thore in a distaneo of foroxt 
botwoen thom of soveral bundsed miles, and the Lindi, Landa 
Ttori rivors woparate then, 


fret oy wing aly. the Rukobs, or that of the Wahusna, ‘Thay 
migrotod from the banks of the Tturi, cromed the Roki, and dwelt 
‘among the Wahuma, who aro an osclusive and proud 
‘The Rakobé or Wahuma havo no single word for thanks, but yo 
simire-kurungi litorally moann, “T tako it to be good of you," or =I 
‘wooopt it kindly.” 
Wakomo, when children, call their father “haba,” equal 4 ome 
pupa; whon adult, tata.” 
Walama, when children, call their motor “mama,” equal to 
our mamma ; when adnits, “ man.” 
‘Walia, on the other side of the lako, are called Wachwori, 
Tho mmmbor thre ix the most universally wimilue, ‘Take from 
Zanzibar on to tho Kast Coast to Ranana on to tho West Coast thera 
fn but little variation, and through tho forest rogion to Taki Atbert, 
water is almost protty near alike, ospecially on the Western half, | 
varying from riba, Liba, libu, libo, ibo, rub. 
Chicken = kuku, kokko, ngokko, bukoko. | 





Dog = mbwa, bus, 


— ee 


APPENDIX 2. 4m 


“Hottontot Bubuwee — Kumbatti ‘Mandingo. 
Eye = mu Hod = mn Hew = mo Man = mo 
Wobuam, Galle 
Milk = mata Head = matta 

Deoakil Arabia 
Cow = Ia a= no 


‘Toarike. ‘Kikongo 

Mair = xin Blophant = nau 

Ryans Bakiokwn, 
Friend = koi Byo = koi 

Risswoili, Bist Mawyweus, 

Bana or Bwwnn = Mustor Bana = four 

Kismat Mavira 
Kiboko = Hippo Head, hand, finger = Kiboko 


isin Swahili « vile slang word; and country 
Boat woenabaf in Niam Niam. 


Sommé in Flurear is sky ; in Sondanowe Arubie it means good. 

Kul in Bayira is sky; is dog in Aduiol, big in Swahili, 

Barra in Adaiel is Woon ; ix continent in Swahili. 

Tow in Kiyanzi is four; in Yoruba means fire. 

Afi in Bobira means road ; in Ku-mbutti moans river, 

A-6 in Somali moans dog, but imouns another ia Husrur; 60 that 
son of a feumle dog in Somali, would in Hurrur be w avother’s som, 

Arihio in Waluma, or, aro you hore, is #ky in Niam Niam, 

appa, hore, in Swaihi, booomes yes in Monbuttn. 

Tho ibuka of the foros, approaches the ebbagu of Mondauttn 


sain). 

‘The Niam Ninn haye no words for numerals highor than fivoy 
ix becomes the mooond ono battimn ; woven the second two batti- 
wi, Aen, deo, 

‘Tho Wabaruknr Ukewiso, 

Ponyo, meat in Niam Ninn, approaches the Ponho, rations, Swahili, 
and podsio, Ruskian for hurr 

Rubu, rain, of the Adi 





‘in a common nano for parhape a seare of 


African rivers, Tf, Reavu, Ruf. ‘The Danukil wand for rain, robs, 
‘is ox noarly related to libo (water). Monbutti, rnbe of Mbarukn- 
karn; ibo of the Babira; itn Batusened. 

‘The be (ater) of the Mian Name bores mer in 























APPENUIX. B, 495. 


DIX RB. 


AND GRASSLAND LANGUAGES, 














IN DARKEST AFRICA, 














494 
COMPARATIVE TABLE OF FOREST AN 
pai | Sis 
er 
TTotko, gunga. |mamba. 
ee SEN 














APPENDIX B, 


GRASSLAND LANGUAGES (Continued). 


495 





Wawona, 


|Wasvxmone ax] 
‘Banoanaek- 





Tides 
ara, 
mig 
enka 
Site 
yoke 
Esore 


muhsida. 








osionlya inal, 


loaba. 
oes 
(mktoce-mams, 


ike 
Ieenasont. 
iecramiet, 


























APPENDIX ©. 


407 














3 | 
z 22 z 
: tr Rt 
5 ray & 

= 3 

















dat a 

i ee ue ‘Ht 
in a it NTH: 
SRRHASAGRAT UOTE = AS SSaeaSRAASE 


2 


Yor. 1, 

























RS 
Sees be aR; 
Ree Ra y 
& 8 Ey & 
&b chR EE ae 
& Re ORE & 














Hom .seeunsecenconenercnenss o a: 





and Srensceaddaayesesaresae 5 —|F | 








fe 
itueaik 


i= Leas pdoen) Saaanaas™ + OF 
i 
























APPENDIX & 50L \ 

























Bacon Jour ro Ataxwr NYANEA: 





2 | Albert N} 


80 | Ns 


























nesraa: n'a 


= 








mas 




















oe 


oy th este se Sumenpasy | BL 
reas moss wuND og, | OT IH 


EG 


[ag ak oF ava 


APPENDIX @ 


crwera i ao eA TINA | 
 Gasqave) s | 





S256 








H 


eo 5 UPON ML AW | 
oi yonameopay | > Arwnaoe 
“east 


gai 
bit 


























APPENDIX 509 









SSSEE0838092 322 85385 585 
aL hh ® 2S $a2 2h & BRee 
> OE EERE Rees GSS ngR . aSEcESR 
& & $345 s2885 S22 of) ENRNNR 
za aise cowew ute mai nani 
ke 2 Ba: § 5 GBS 
B sass 8 See See ti: : BRE ea 
S& $e 2 88R RRE GE GRE GEE 











eraser 











Fr 
Hibs ee 
inl itu i 








2 

















may xc ev walt 


S623 EERE EES 2 























Sqmrory 


22 ce aoe tag 


Lob psa 
ie umn ey 


gmap ty 








a 
z 


munegyacy ONE | LE 


IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


512 





pawaaoy yySnoug, 
‘penusquoo—vag ML OL LYM, 





“amg 20 som, 10 008, 





APPENDIX De 


APPENDIX D, 


STATEMENT OF THE EMIN PASITA RELIEF 
Recxrrs rnom Semacuinnn 


i 





Government: ; 
si iam: Mackinnon, Bark 2 2. 2 Lt 
Boter Mackinnon, Fag, 
eter Bonny, Rian 








amos Sligo Jarueson,, Bx). a 
Countess Hones’ dices in “a 9m ademas 
src Ravi & Co, Loud 

100, an, 






guswegassuszeseeseiees - 


eocesscocsosesesosssso™ 
vocooscoossscsosossces® 


Bumpoou Low, Marston, Searle & Rivington, Limited 


vou. O 38 


eshEwcacas © o 


oswwocShaa + o 


‘= 


514 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 


‘Exrensxs. 


Traneport and Traveling Expenses 
Ehud 
1 ui 
‘Wages advanced to Porters 
Salaries and Commissions. 
Telegrams... . 
Tnsuranco 
‘Medical Attendance 
Special Meseonger to Khartoum > 
drafts drawn in Africa for Goods 
Potty expenses in London... 
Eastern Tolograph Co... + 
Hi ee (Suez Draft) | 
o snese (Suez Draft) | 
Pdinburgh Draft : 
‘William Bonny's balance of Salary 
Captain Neleon’s Ex : 
Passage, Stairs and Jephson: 
Expenses on “ Katoria” and “Rew: 
‘Smith, Mackenzie & Co.’s Dratt for Payment of Exped 
tion. nite 
Ast Donation to Lieut W, ‘a. Stuire “a 
» founteney Jephson, 
® Yo Gapt RH. Nelson... 
> 5 rhe ttt 
% willl Boony, aq Lolo Tt 


p 





eat 





pres 


oe 












BoowScamane 








s.esBese! 


nd 
BS5552 veel 8 
He concous Foon Bambee * 


wancooowr:! 





ecco 





ooooom 








e 
8 
jon 


To contribution to Widows and Orphans of deceased 
Zancibaris. . 1 se + + + + + + + + 10,000 rupecs, 








GENERAL INDEX. 






i. 163; ji, 2%, 9%, 
58, 


i=, 024, 
Abdul ‘Asin, Saltan of ‘Turkey, 


atau arte Ali and Rivor: 
Nil 





Abdul ‘Ruder eat Emin, | 


i, 44-5, 
Abad Vaal Bend, HL, 
‘Abu Kloa, battlo of, i. 24. 





0 Somali, i, 201. 
‘ign ii, 01; skull nt, 163, ‘Ni Eifend 


dara sees memorandum 
for olicers of. i. 120-31 ; 
numbers of a 

Advanes steol bont, i, 80, 85, 


92, 146, 195-6, 373, 800, 4275 | A 
ii, 193-14) 





ain music, und 
JO ; ornamenta, 
77 j_ Professor Drarmmond| Ai 
on, Hi, 7345 Gront Contral 
Forest of, ae in Homer's 
timo, 201-4; in Ptolom; 
Hekate, be. time, 
ag; rites of Central, 364-| 
4 


AE A, stoner, i, 1%, 120, 
‘16, 58%, 53%, 





Alousé, 
9, 








}, 335—6 : islunds of, 3434, 
08, en aay lst view of, 
Pi eratiod 1 
Albuquerque, fon i. 76, 

it rote 





‘Ameiot ead Stanley Balla Sta 

tion, i. 70, 

Amie Wil 208,470,368, 
Amranda, ji 

Anan eating, I. $9, 46, 48, 

Anilrson, Sir Poy, is 4,4, 


ateens Sir James, i. 66, 
‘Andiknmt clearing, ii, 53, 54, 








A Mountain, 1, 250, 
ibe of warts i, 14-5, And 
tia Ankori |, Hdd, 9515 
a Lak, 104, 112,|"vonte, 80-1, S7Ic + climate 


Albert 
122, t 139, 193, 295, 313, 
3 Mason's chart of, 
B28; ata of, 339-40, 393, 








of, 370-7, 880 j cattle of, 398, 
401-5, 
Antari, King of Ankori, ti 


Hu 


fi 





3 ad- ip 


4, 201-2. 
‘Avambuari), i. 


E s 
Bat 


fe 
# 











iy ie 5 of ate 








93 5 cae B21; 
meal inaruments of, the 


Hills, i. 346, 386 5 
ee 10, 263, BLAS, 
403; mv on vilges, 1. 34, 





Bales, country. of, is 256-6 
slnrnge of SET chet 
207; manors ato 

‘0 crit iL 0, 100. 

Balia Coie i474; tribe, ii, 


Balonda tribe, il, 386. 











i 423 at Aden, 595 
ieee of, 13; aod Soudans 
ese, 88 ink Peacy, mt 
and 4.4, Sta corde 
and dation of, 





Balungwa. i, 306, 
Bambi, Chief, 
Banalya, tribe, tee 183, 166 ; tee 
curve, 492; arrival at, 493-97,| of, i. 344, 351; ao 
517-26, 594-47; renr-colamn, | to, 3 320, 37%, 180, 
ii, 11-12, 58, 115, 126, 282.) 422; Lieut. Stairs and, 463~ 
—— Point, i. 15, 795 ii, 15,) 55 Case prea ee 
Surgeon Prk 400, 484: nd 
Bandangt village, {. 158; ial- et, of the rear i oo 
near nse report of, 3 
Bandekiya vill rear mn, ‘aba 
Bandoya, i. 10 rie 385, 437. pace tribe, fi, 886, 
Bandussima, i490; i114, 90, Barut (black, os), i, 485 
Station, 1. 107-8, 602, | Suoz, 68;and brothor, 10-10. 
‘G10, 515; iL 15, 34; tribe, | Burzah House, the, ii, 148-156; 
4, 91, 97. ‘and Mpigwa at, 305-6. 
Bantu, the term, ii. 384-5. tril i He. 3S 399, 
Bunyoro, ii. 430. eo 0 tribe i ii, 97 ; villages, i, 
hy 08-10. 
‘Banzanza tribe, i. 288. Paeengen tribe, 1. 204, 207, 
Banzombé village, ii, 275, 238, 510, 








es ih eat ee 
and 8. 
i, 1, 86, 00, 92-4. 6 
Binnio, Mr., ‘nnd Stanley Falla 


Station, i 65. 


Janker’s 


phi 























GENERAL INDEX. 619 
897-0, 951, 421 474; Camps, aee “Ttinorary” i 
pag 477 Ei] ceo 
t o WNO® HCCI 
AES. Rarguottes i, asts| Capetown th 
Brokenbury, Genera, i 48. |e Lab 198. 138, A ae 
a i, 48, i: 
Batish Gotgo: Companys] 180-7, 160, 16a and Mone 
Steamers, i 7 Douttu, i. 400, 419: and return 
British Enst African ompany,| to tho Coast, 45 
ences in Un j and 


ae 453; and Emin, 467, 
British Govornment, and Emin’s 
Province, i. 417. 





250; crops at, 
Bandi, 2b, 388, 


Bunguoget, ‘illo 


sue ate 
18, rete ene 84. 
Bungie 28, 
Bede Cont, Barone an 





W., i. 86, 4 
Burroughs and Woleome, i 88. 
Buruli, i. 347, 349-50, 
Bashiri, oy 
Basindi, i. 
Butaha thiver it. 284, 318. 
370, 














Butterflies at, Katw 
Baxton, Sie Thomas Fs 36, 
Brrambir villages of; i, 1085 





br nN tillage, 422, 
an ‘of, ix B84, 441, 


Ow 





6 (Staasttas) map of 
ried, ii, 208-9, 








Gini, 4109 ie’ 38620, 181, 
200, 207-8, 244-5 






Teaa, 
Shoonlirikwa i i 8, 
Chartors, Mr, David, and ea 
Pence i. 108 ; and 
ws. Stanley, 1034, 118. 
Chovit Pasha i. 
Chimpanzees, ort asko" b 
269; in forest of Maonga 


pated camp at, i. 44, 
Chowambi, ie B82. 
Dela ‘Mission Soclety, i. 


(Cihnmbis, and an Stanley 
Clarke, Mey of tho Ts Mie 
clears ty a 46, 80-4; 


arte io See Anak 
Congo-la-Lomiba, i, 81-5. 


ind, 355 
Emin’a i 


5 25 
2; and Kinin Pea 
ian G 













a 
ul 
oH 
E 2 
a 
is 


38 
zEE 


4 
=e 
E 
i 
li 





Tia! 
SEES 


;. fol 

aes a 216, 226 
a province, 
e849; 





i 


at 


afi: ; eens Bes 
2ilgeees 


¢ dead af? 
@ Ge i 2S 
ie iii 


in, 418; 
1imd pd 


Bquator Station, i, 
15, 











GENERAL INDEX. 528 
progres zh 144,| 1095 plantains 
i, forest tem i, 268, 290, 440. 
ates, 4335 ‘Nesr’| 58,31, 36 39 
ings, 222; array 61, 62, 78-0, 97, 
223; beans, 417; wild oranges 
226; limit of the Patt 20; fige, 29, 11 
woods, 284, 957 5 tree, 84, 83 5 wiht 
374; of Meongwa, 449 ; clour- ‘88, "109-10 
ings, 474-5; ovila of forost } black 
marching, 47 i Forust, 
os a ae Fund i 00 
Ganno (Che lake pilot) i, 40% 
Game in the fares 
Gayirm, ohigt of Bore ae 








), i, 380, 884, 3 
19, 601-2, 


ibaa 





232, 420; construction of, i. 
BIS, Moobade: of B68 
G 5 






‘road cone! 
traction wt, 349; distance: 
cornflelds 


labour 

ronda 
am tito at, 371-2; arrival 
‘at, 453 5 condition of parrinon 


ut, 456-7; state of, To-t0 5 
ieee to be made in, 


tare from, 468 | Gi 


sigan 401, 
sland, near Panga 
26, 


worn & Mason, i. let 


Baty fini in ee? Afri- 
, atid East Africa, 


Fost 








ete 

% 
Franoqui, Mons, 8%, 
Frwce, Commander TM, 


Prench missionaries at Teambi- 
tat 420, 408 at Baku, 
4B3—4, 444: trib 





Germansat Mpmrapia, i 430- 
jermans at Mpwa 
mpgs Reo 


407 
1, 400 5 





i 14, 430, 444 5 Hh 
WAL; and Rawenzori, 3. 

Giegler Pasha, i. 58. 

Girault, Paro, ti, 445, 

Gladstone, Mr,, i, 16, 93, 240, 

Glaye, at’ Equator Station, i. 


| nears Mr,, and Stanley Falls 
‘Station, i. 70. 


tributes of, 449, | Good 


AA, AAT and, 448-0. 
Fruit; fencasi, i. 225, 229; ii, 











AT; iis W 
Gondokoro, i, 412. 


524 


Gordon, General, and the slave 

trade, i. 14, 17; and the U; 
r Soudan, 17-19; and the 

Uongo River, 20; and Khar- 
toum, 20-25, 404, 427; at 
Khartoum, ii, 141; death, i. 
24; Nubar Pasha and, 52, 
240, 412 ; and Lake Ibrahim, 
419; and Emin Pashs, 27, 
443-4. 

Gordon, Rev. Cyril, ii. 380, 
ae ig OT 












Gordon-Bennett, Mr. J., ii. 
450. 

Gordon-Bennett Mountain, ii. 
B15, 817; cove, 367. 

Grant, Ci i. 12. 

Grant, Col. J. A., i. 45-7; and 


Baruti, 48, 503 and Mtesa, 
411, 412. 

Granville, Lord, and the Sou- 
dan, i. 16; and General Gor- 
don, 20-2. 

Grase“land and Forest lan- 

, comparative table of. 
Bes Appendix. 

Gravenreuth, Baron von, ii. 
450. 

Gray, Dawes & Co., i, 35, 46, 
a8 


Grenfell, General, i. 56, 58. 

Grenfell, Mr., and Mobangi 
River, i, 107. 

Grenfell, Sir Francis, ii. 248-9. 

Greshoff, Mr. A., i. 96, 399, 
462-3. E 

Gunda village, i. 441. 

Gwengworé, rapids and vil- 
ages, i. 151, 152. 








Haratan, 

Hai, Zanzibar 

Bill Jas i 90a 
iamdan, Egyptian soldier, ii. 
268, 265. 

Hamed bin Ibrahim, ii, 411. 

Hamid Aga, ii. 131. 


118. 











GENERAL INDEX, 


Hannington, 
murder of, ii, 359, 
380-1. 

Hassan, our cook, i, 474. 

Hassan, Bakari, ii. 169. 

Hassan, Vits, apothecary, i, 
399, 424. ess 

Hassan, Dr. 


Bishop, i. 533 
370, 





i. 473. 
i. 41, and Africa, 


Henry Reed, mission steamer, 
i. 76-7, 85, 88, 90; Jephson 
and, 98, 95; departure for 
Yambuya, 101-7, 115-16. 

Heron, steamer, i. 16, 79. 

Hicks Pasha, i. 14-17; Army, 


241. 

Hilallah, boy, i. 261, 

Hipparchus’ map of Africa, 
94-5, 300. 

Hippo Broads, 

ills £7 
i tami, i. 101, 104, 201 ; 
ones of, 339. 

Hirachberg, Capt, ii. 462, 473. 

Holmwood, Consul-General F., 
and Emin, i. 28-9; despatch 
to Foreign Office, Sept., 
1886, 29-80 ; 60, 71, 531-2. 

Homer's time, Africa in, ii. 
291-4, 300, and Nile, 302. 

Hot springs, ii, 282; near 
Twanda, 350; Mtagate, 406, 
410. 

Houssas, i. 91, 107. 

Hutton, Mr. James F.,i. 81, 88. 












|. 83; camp, i, 





Inrwa River, i. 207, 246. 

Ibrahim Effendi Elham, 

Ibrahim, Lake (or Gita Naige), 
i, 419, 

iri, Village of, i. 265-10; 
30, 48; clearing of, 53, 

108; fleas of, i. 270, 274-5, 
303, 837-8, 350-1. 

Iddesleigh, Lord, and Uganda 
route, i. 45; death of, 465 








GENERAL INDBX. 


ee furnished by, 





of Bust’ and 
West, f, hola 


468, 
Tndemau, 
Angemani “village, i. 277, 340, 


Ingen, villages of Bast and 
i, 211-11, 453; West 
and Genira, fi 116, 
Tndoporti, ti. 50. 
Indepossn, i, 280, 375, 
Indepuys, ativor of, i. 34 
286, 200-2, 349. 


Tieng crm 38 
‘earviers, i. 
7, 80, 


Tnkiasi River, i. 
Tpoto, alllcnent, of, i. a: 

234-5 108, 273 5 
hnnters at, i 290-41, 366, 


10, 
Trongorn Island, ii, 347, 


Ialanils, ae Bungangeta, 
Teta, Raku, Kagonya, My- 
somiky  Hepangy-Hnmontn, 


Tamil, the Khedive of F; 











FF 








‘ee id es in 
1888, 1889 ; 1h. 496-512, 
nit eats i pore ii 


28. 
Aturi River, i. 53, 207, 218, 216-) 
1%, WAZ, WW, Wz, 280, 








9 
ites se op 


ats ied} ioral He 130 3 
tertlies, 1 


22, 380, 
rie aot md doer anata 
column, 500-26 ; report 
log of rear column, 627-45 
saontion fH, 12, 18, 18-86 5 
box, 30, 1 

ay 





1d steamer 
jonlers to, and 
duties of, 97-8; at Yamboya, 


Fey St 


128; memorandum for ade 
vance column officers, 

31, 146, 149, 161-2, 180, 
1824, 102, 24-9 famoiful 


wd 





Tot ae ae 
Hee 





i 
1, 





i, 

14%, 157, 159, 
255, 2% 

&, 844-6, 


Kanna Roa, i. 
=. 














‘894, 338, J. 119, 
197, 391; A rh Keuvallt 406. 
Katto, Mazamboni’s brother, i. 


45; phalanx dance, 436— Ki 
391. 





, 102, 201, 210; Byyp- 





Khalfan, i. 18%, 189-90, 
Khalif of ‘Khartoum, il, 1434; 
lotter to, 249, 
— ‘io a 4. - 





‘thman, 
tata 208 28 
“Three O’elock,” 26: 





aah 


+: Emin 
fall ot 18, 2, 


407, 400, 422, 424, 
426, 431; ii, 126, 144, 146, 
Kibbo-borm, headman, ii. 69, 
AL0-11. 
Kibiro, ii. een 
Rieu ido) i418 
lo), it, 412, 
ear (ps i 3. 


iia ris 4. 455. 








), 469-70 
59, ‘0s Tollbwenn of, 273, 
a Print ). 390-1, 
im 
aoe or — ii, 417- 


Ki 
Binkenn on the Hanah , 296. 
Riga Oa 











fm oe », Ul, 302-5, 
rk, Sie John, Mr Mackuy’s 
Mier to, i, 0-1, 50, On 
Eimin’s latter to, a; ie 


Kirri, i, 447; ii, 19%, 131, 243, 
irurome) ie toed 10. 


Kiryama,ilage, 
tives, 208. 
Kisaho village, ii. 418, 
ony iis 14%, B01, BORA, 
nd] Kitehoner, Major, and) Khare 








75 ne 














eit 














@ENERAL INDEX. 


bres eat 1 BY, 48, 59- Hamar 4 7 
Mackinnon, Jahn, |. 35. ‘mp 
§. 167, 261-8, 455 


us 
li 268, 875; womun of, 


route, 44-5; farowell bun Mangola River, - 84. 
aon 485 Tottor to the Sultan: Manion Papen sna TE eI 


of of Zanaiinr, 61-2, 67, eases Manginni, ii. 


Mackay anda 191, Man 
ation Monn, fi, 17 


Poms Nuit 2%, 


Madi teil A426; carrion, 428— 
Pe 4724, 476-09; ii, 20, 
362% ‘85, 47, 98, 110; chief, 


B.LS.N. Co.'s se, iv 
60, 63, 66, 75, 70-80. 
ango, on Albort Nyunza, i, 


1 
aa Mohamet. ge ade . | May 
at Khartoum, wt 


e 
ara viuncd ey Ene 
Bao'%7, dues, in forces 
dofeted by Shukri Horeas Goole tender, Th 34%, 
120, 12: 156, 167, 
30, 3 5839, prey MarpiritePhilosophice, map of, 
faqyueme hewdman, i |i 3 


Makraka onttle ale aide 4 29. 

Fo deen rad B08. 
Makubana, S oe | A EWR Se ii, 
sata 76, 79, 80, 905 Ii 


Malia, Freee 
Mata.” or aor it 403, 41, Maty 
AMG, Mavona 


VoL. 1. 











a 


bebe 


on 











GENERAL INDEX. 


1 oe 


Mana Soa, Sho 
Eola in etre 


Mal 

xu ts i i, 105. 
a oe ape, Non and Sonth, vile 

4. 188-9, 401; South, 

Eats 16, 

rs i 4.2665 

Muehinon Bay, ishind near, ii, 

Murray, Hoyh, and the River 
Nilo iis 

Musici, Cast i, 498-5, 441; 


fi, 
Mua SViigb lakoe so named by 
aes ii. 421, 


tinge i 349, 





s 
HU 


our * medicine 








ioe eo nt nse 


Ae 411-13, ‘an du 





(or Mugwé') camp, i, 


Nawrawsa, River and Valley, 
Si, 970-8, 400, 


ie, joa |X 
se Na 





Le fare 






M iu River, 5.208 fi 90,88, 









ite 
np fy 


le 


ii, 


sottloment, ii, 373. 
aguzani Rivor, ti, 318, 33%, 


384, 
nage; 
Nyam i, i 386, 301-2; 
¢ ialand, 291 5 5 
400, 428, 494 j ii, 118, 124-7, 
13), 131 
Nynngwé i. 12%, 027, 
ed, at ie 426 is 126, 


23,2 
i 


2 


146, 

Nyuntus, the different, ii. 283-4, 

Nyika, King of Usongora, il, 
B44: aon of, | 

Naullis cump, i. 468, 





GENERAL INDEX. 


Stan- 
a = 
Bre 


Fort, 


$89, 26041, 900; plemy da 
A 5 Pi 
fel and, 410, 4602 end Emin 

necldent, 461, 465, 479. 
Parrota, i, 203, 449, 


46. 
Peace, Mission Steamer, letter 
from donor, i. 47, 85-6, 90-1, 
92; Yambnya, 101-7, 112-16. 
Pelly, Colonel Sir Lewis, i. 








Ph ical cr hy Lens 
ny oagraphy, tae © Hic. 
try” Cataracts Ys ee Bala” 
pe vitae a dM 
ingein, ‘traveller, nnd Mon- 
beet i, 400, 


Mount, i. 281-3, 875, 
ne 116, 124, 175, 








Pear dso” 
Polson. used for ‘urrows, i. 











21, 23, 
Price Hare Misi 4 
Prout, Expodiion wader Colo 

ely iy Joh. 
Ptolomy’s map of Africa, ii. 
pa 0, i Nile, 301, 


Seen under Colo- 


i, 426, 
10 ; ‘amas Nive, ii, 274, 318, 
eeu 












588 
— Emin’s olerk, ii, 163, 
Raki, a kind of Russian Vodku, 


River gorge, ite 
Bis 2, 


5 and 
inst of 4305 ii, 93, 
ja Pasha and catile raids, i. 


rash Tippu-ib's nephew, ie 


ashi bin Omar, Head Chief, 
bint 201, 347, 


84-1, 
ashy Chief, ii, 59-00, 199, 
Tals ‘at Bort Bodo, i. 855. 
Ravi a 





wervant 






90; Kinin and, 267 

wythons, i, 450. 

Me and Myg., of 
insion, i, 85, 

i Arowimi, 








‘Chai, 


Rivers, 


=. 


Hit 


pete 
HE 
28 











GENERAL INDEX. 


Schwoinfurth, Professor, 
route, i el iat ie 





6,317,802, 
Serour, a Monbuttu boy, ii, 197, 
2038, 200. 


Bac} Pinto, paddie-boat, i, 


Sultan of 
bar fe 4, 00, C1, Oty 
6, 2645 ii, 18'5 and the Gere 


smuins, 

Shakri Commandant of 
Mawa . i. 395, 
447-95 ii, 121-3, 135, 147, 


210, 217 ; wrrivul, 220, 233, 
246-7, 47: 

Sibulikci, Ohi i, 870, 

‘Simba, i. ii, 44, 


Suteawennl, do die 
Sims, Dr., and ws. Peace, 1. 


Singiri Rivor, ii, 474-318, 
Sinyanga, il. 442. 
Smith os tis BHO 


ith, Mr. Harrison, i, 31, 
Sih Colonel Euan, li. 445, 








Somalis, i, 83, 196, 167, 104 
pean the, i, 4-11; Inst of, 


senna ean, 414. 
‘Soudunose voldivrs, i, 07-8, 72 








19 
— 
doe, Bret 08, 











ipetgy ater 408, 27, IB 
My Brea 336, 341, 347, B52 


Bey ae Pe 48, 158 


Mise tE ita ttacias Tine 
18, 130-40 ; letter iiss 
6, 155, 159-60, Toe 170 
81; SL; weight of, 120, $08, 15 





mand of rear column, 
100; Barati, 10; inatructions 
to Major Barttelot, 117-1 rata 
eee atapae 
tolot referring to Te ‘Tib, 
* 119-28; memorandum for ad- 
1 et 





bow 
204, 209, 213-1b. wr i 
230-1; and Bible, $11 





Dad Medan 
ae eter a en 


It a 
ean 





sia ee 


2 EF Eb 
le 





GENERAL INDEX. 


oe) native of Johanna, fi, 28, 


kn Lake, §. 68, 655 i 
qareient cer party of 106) 
‘a forest, ii. 81-2. 
Tow ik, Khedive, and Cor 
yout i, 49, 56; TL 
sendy any ina 








Snare Fn 
ane Pay 
Nina sige fo ho, eippa- 





64, 
ations vith 45, 


(a sap 
jane and 
oe and Ge at 


to gir 





pate 140, 147, ine 233, 


"turks Land i 
sees Sf ‘Sewenrorl, 


ene natives, ii, 61, 
hunk, Prineo Royal 


407, 415 
coast, 


cvanta fe, 
411-18 
King of 


Ugarome village 
of, 260-10, 8 


ii, Bd, 3 
358-60 
880-2, 








: i 


and Salim, 90; and Mae Taos 


jer Barttolot proceed to Stan- 
eg ul 108, 110-16 5 Major Us 
Bavttalot and, 119-86 
and rear oolamn, 
> banttalots report 
ones h of rear colamn, 
5OBATs Th 12-14, 16, 107 5| Uj 
Sci 445 Jattar aya 
and cai 
‘Tobnooo, i. 20 
Oban ess, aus, m45; 
hills of, 849, 961, 962, 403, 
"Troos, fallen, ‘in tho forest, il, 


‘Tribes, see ** Ethnology,” 
‘Troup, John Roto, i. 6 4%, 80, 
85; ordors to, 97-3, 106, 372, 





“i Saas, 847, B51, 

vhs urmlets, &o., of, i. eit 
spears of, 318; il, 386, 406. 

Uhbbo fi, 365 5 ative of, 258, 


ole i. 444-5, 
wien age 
252. 








380, 409 462-3, 404; and story of 
the 1 3 aa 628.) U1 
‘Tukabi, boy, ii 


sores ii, 
Veg i, 289, 2 
a are “i. 290, 240, 


oe, 


ie 


159, 
403. 


ii, 
345, 
want 




















GENERAL INDEX. 590 
ie 30%, 371,] raid ; 
so 386, 308, ie | Est, “Tn id, 38,08, 4 
Wala, the, i.88 wri 6, 83, 10h 
al 1.83, 7 
ries 1 540, 985, 392; or| 106) 72, 280, 494, and story. 
Ws tribe, ih 129, 176, column, 500-26 ; 
iption of, 
i 
We ‘weo] ii, 
Wasongora or Wawitu tribo, i 
Waiyana or Watuma tribe, ii,| 284, 337-8, HT, 
Wal ribo, ji. 330. Wasp Rapids, 1. 163, 210, 485 5 
Wkawenh tribe, 886 ii. 
Waki and | Wasps, i. 1 


fi, 283-6 
Rawonzori, 892 ; 844-7, 349— 









H. Prince and 


Wi 
Wanbuttl dwarts, 370, 380, 
457; ti. 43, 100-9; messu 
ag ; ldaguage ot 


0, fe 95. 
Wandai, it, 443, 
tribe, iL 386, 
areal nai of, 4905 


Weuyoniont or Wachwesi tribe, 
2-8, 972 ; milk 
of, B72) ‘one. of our officers 





oe A 
Ware - 266, 3: 
af, i 1s a5, 200-1; 


204, 312, 388, Wat 





63-4, 233. 
Ware ‘and thoit nents, fi, 84. 
Wasukuma tribe, fi, 3865 fet 
with, 436-8. 


Watson & Co,, i, 88, 
= 


vatusi ii, 372, 387-8, 


Want, ii a 
Wailea, if 


8, and Kat- 





Wilktnsoe s{dAncient Kgyp- 
tiany ” ii, 


40, 46-0, 108, 
Wissman, Major, ii. 447-8, 453, 


M08, 4! 

Wolseley, Lord, and Arabi Pas 
sha, i, 145 and General Gore 
don, 20; and the relief of 





im! 











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